[dirtmaster666]

hey guys and girls

first question is how exactly can i tell if my sensors are bad when i am running cattlerss downpipes. i read codes on my procede but they all seem to read due to the cattless pipes. i am concerned that my sensors are bad because my afr will be normal at about 10,11:1 while just cruising one minute but the next minute under the same cruising throttle position my afr will pegg 21:1 and and it runns like crap then goes back to normall. this issue happens periodically. i thought maybe it was a softwARE issue with my procede so i reloaded everything and reset adaptions and still same issue. i even went to map 0 for stock and even tho i cant read my afr with my oiltemp guage on this mode i cna tell it does the same thing due to the feel of the car. like i said it will go to the shits one mknute then jump back up to normal the next. i also just changed all plugs. my coils are fine. would this issue be caused by the o2 sensors like i thing? and if so is there a diy on how to change the sensors? ( i tried searching but couldnt come up with nothing)

any info would be very helpfull

ps also checked fuel pump and injectors and i am getting no codes for those.

thanks

[dirtmaster666]

???

[135Pats]

i just had a precat lambda o2 go bad, general symptoms were a miserable and shaky idle on cold start, and occassional misfires, though i only got o2 codes.

2cab, 2ca7.

Dealer took care of it under cpo, though i am not catless so that obviously complicates things. Out of whack AFRs certainly tend to go hand in hand with an o2 thats at the end of the line.

[135Pats]

PS if you are out of warranty do it yourself/go to an indy, dealers will happily charge upwards of 1k to replace an o2 sensor, the part runs about 160 i think at tischer or EAS. replacing is mechanically simple, but the sensors can be a real pain to get out, they can seize in there pretty good.

[JamesM3M5]

Also need to log with your Procede to ensure you don't need to change the OL fuel value. It starts at 75 and can be scaled up to 100 if needed. Log Fuel Trim to see whether the trims are working at all, and if so, they need to stay in the positive range, anywhere from +10% up to +30%. If they peg at full +34%, then increase the OL Fuel value by increments of 5 and log again.

But even so, if you have more than 50k miles on the sensors, then I'd change them anyway. Bosch 17098 can be used in both banks 1+2 pre-cat, just make sure you label them and plug into the proper connectors under the engine cover. Find them online cheaper than any dealer price, and the bank 2 17102 is much more expensive, only difference is the shorter wire.

[joec500]

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

Also need to log with your Procede to ensure you don't need to change the OL fuel value. It starts at 75 and can be scaled up to 100 if needed. Log Fuel Trim to see whether the trims are working at all, and if so, they need to stay in the positive range, anywhere from +10% up to +30%. If they peg at full +34%, then increase the OL Fuel value by increments of 5 and log again.

But even so, if you have more than 50k miles on the sensors, then I'd change them anyway. Bosch 17098 can be used in both banks 1+2 pre-cat, just make sure you label them and plug into the proper connectors under the engine cover. Find them online cheaper than any dealer price, and the bank 2 17102 is much more expensive, only difference is the shorter wire.

Also, make sure you replace them in PAIRS. I found 17098 O2's NEW on Ebay for $70.

[dirtmaster666]

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

Also need to log with your Procede to ensure you don't need to change the OL fuel value. It starts at 75 and can be scaled up to 100 if needed. Log Fuel Trim to see whether the trims are working at all, and if so, they need to stay in the positive range, anywhere from +10% up to +30%. If they peg at full +34%, then increase the OL Fuel value by increments of 5 and log again.

But even so, if you have more than 50k miles on the sensors, then I'd change them anyway. Bosch 17098 can be used in both banks 1+2 pre-cat, just make sure you label them and plug into the proper connectors under the engine cover. Find them online cheaper than any dealer price, and the bank 2 17102 is much more expensive, only difference is the shorter wire.

Did also play with the open loop. I have it at I think 90 and when if runs properly I hit between 7 and 8 to one

[dirtmaster666]

Can anyone tell me if there is a DIY o. The o2 sensors or how difficult they are to change? I did install my dp myself, is it more difficult than dp's?

[Dr-Euro]

Originally Posted by dirtmaster666

Can anyone tell me if there is a DIY o. The o2 sensors or how difficult they are to change? I did install my dp myself, is it more difficult than dp's?

If you replaced your downpipes then changing out the O2 sensors will be a breeze. The primary O2 sensor harnesses are located under the plastic engine cover.
1. Remove the cowl & HVAC air filter
2. Remove the 4 alen screws on the top of the engine cover
3. Locate the 2 O2 sensor harnesses toward center/driver side - they have the same grey and black wire insulation to distinguish sensor 1 from sensor 2
4. Unclip the sensors and following the wiring around the back of the motor and down the side of the passenger side of the motor - there are some simple retaining clips holding the wires in.
5. Once the wires are free, safetly jack the vehicle and support with chalks.
6. Use the T25 torx to remove the bolt securing the heat sheild on the passenger side subframe above the steering rack.
7. Push the heat shield back and out of the way. Use an O2 sensor wrench - I use a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter and 1/4 ratchet since space is tight - remove the primary sensors from the downpipes.

Remember that grey is always short pipe and black is always long pipe - the wiring has appropriate lengths to reach their harnesses above.

[dirtmaster666]

Originally Posted by Dr-Euro

If you replaced your downpipes then changing out the O2 sensors will be a breeze. The primary O2 sensor harnesses are located under the plastic engine cover.
1. Remove the cowl & HVAC air filter
2. Remove the 4 alen screws on the top of the engine cover
3. Locate the 2 O2 sensor harnesses toward center/driver side - they have the same grey and black wire insulation to distinguish sensor 1 from sensor 2
4. Unclip the sensors and following the wiring around the back of the motor and down the side of the passenger side of the motor - there are some simple retaining clips holding the wires in.
5. Once the wires are free, safetly jack the vehicle and support with chalks.
6. Use the T25 torx to remove the bolt securing the heat sheild on the passenger side subframe above the steering rack.
7. Push the heat shield back and out of the way. Use an O2 sensor wrench - I use a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter and 1/4 ratchet since space is tight - remove the primary sensors from the downpipes.

Remember that grey is always short pipe and black is always long pipe - the wiring has appropriate lengths to reach their harnesses above.

Awesome thanks alot