[Snyperx]

I decided to scan my car for codes just because and ended up discovering that a 2a99 code was being stored. In reading this forum it seems this is related to the VANOS solenoid. From my understanding I should be able to just clean the solenoids and swap correct? The car still seems to be starting and running fine. Any other things I should be looking into? To be honest after I looked up the code I about had a heart attack.

[Volasko]

No need for a heart attack, it is one of the easiest DIY's you can do. I would just pull both solenoids out, spray them down with MAF cleaner and blow them dry with compressed air. Make sure you mark them so you know you are actually swapping them and reinstall them. Drive for a few days and see if you still pull an error code. If you do find an error code (probably about the intake cameshaft now that you swapped it) just buy a new solenoid and install your self. I had a solenoid that after cleaning two times would still throw codes so I just put in a new one and the car is running as good as new. It is about $150 from the dealer and about 15 min of your time to install.

Some symptoms are uneven idle and reduced power especially around 3k when the vanos system kicks in to adjust the valve timing.

[Snyperx]

Originally Posted by Volasko

Some symptoms are uneven idle and reduced power especially around 3k when the vanos system kicks in to adjust the valve timing.

Doesn't seem like the car is driving any different, though I will say it seems to idle a bit rough when I first start it up, but smooths out after a couple minutes. No other codes or CEL lights. I did already plan on pulling and cleaning the solenoids. If I end up buying one I should be able to get them for about $100 each online.

[Snyperx]

UPDATE: I cleared the 2a99 code using my Peake scan tool and so far the code has not come back. Maybe it was a fluke? I still plan on pulling, cleaning, swapping the VANOS solenoids though. It is still puzzling why that code was getting stored though.

[Snyperx]

UPDATE 2: I got on the gas a few times last night coming home from work and this morning did a quick scan and the 2A99 code was back. I have yet to get a CEL/SES light though. Guess I will be cleaning the solenoids this weekend.

[Snyperx]

UPDATE 3: Cleaned solenoids and swapped location a couple weeks ago. Took a 320 mile round trip this weekend and am now getting a 2a98 and 2a99 shadow codes. Starting to wonder if I might have a bearing ledge issue. If so I am screwed since it will be impossible for me to come up with the money fix. Can someone advise?

[Volasko]

I think the solenoids can go bad not matter how well you clean them out. After a few cleanings and swapping I couldn't get rid of the 2A98/99 code. Even thought I didn't have a CEL light, the code would would come up. Eventually I just bought a new VANOS solenoid and it is good as new.

[Snyperx]

Originally Posted by Volasko

I think the solenoids can go bad not matter how well you clean them out. After a few cleanings and swapping I couldn't get rid of the 2A98/99 code. Even thought I didn't have a CEL light, the code would would come up. Eventually I just bought a new VANOS solenoid and it is good as new.

Well I hope $220 in new solenoids will fix the issue. I hope I am not just throwing money at my car. I did send an email to Bav Auto and a Bentley Publishers to try and get additional input before I order the solenoids.

[natanalmeida99]

Originally Posted by Snyperx

Well I hope $220 in new solenoids will fix the issue. I hope I am not just throwing money at my car. I did send an email to Bav Auto and a Bentley Publishers to try and get additional input before I order the solenoids.

Olá amigo, você conseguiu resolver seu problema?

[Jerez418]

Originally Posted by Snyperx

Well I hope $220 in new solenoids will fix the issue. I hope I am not just throwing money at my car. I did send an email to Bav Auto and a Bentley Publishers to try and get additional input before I order the solenoids.

Hey there, I know I’m reviving this thread, did you ever figure out what exactly was wrong? What was your solution?
Hope this gets to you,
Thanks

[Suvorovo]

Originally Posted by Jerez418

Hey there, I know I’m reviving this thread, did you ever figure out what exactly was wrong? What was your solution?
Hope this gets to you,
Thanks

Hey, I had a single 2a99 code that was triggered only during cold start up. Check engine temp and RPM that the code is triggered.

Genuine BMW vanos solenoids are on sale right now on FCP for 149.99, which is VERY cheap.
Also, I've noticed FCP stock Pierburg ones for 99.99 Confirm with them that they're the actual manufacturer for BMW. I've seen a couple of brands being tossed around, but Pierburg seems to be accurate.

The usual testing procedure for any vanos related codes depends on the a lot of factors and it's important to state the circumstances in which the codes show up.

Vanos codes could be:
1. Bad Solenoids
2. Broken Vanos Sprocket bolts
3. Worn cam ledge bearing. (This is the worst as your n52 has the intake cam ledge integrated into the head)

[PhaceN52]

Originally Posted by natanalmeida99

Olá amigo, você conseguiu resolver seu problema?

Had the same problem, single 2a99 upon startup, engine had slipped timing on exhaust side camshaft

[Suvorovo]

Originally Posted by PhaceN52

Had the same problem, single 2a99 upon startup, engine had slipped timing on exhaust side camshaft

How is that possible?

[PhaceN52]

Originally Posted by Suvorovo

How is that possible?

Vanos adjusters are not keyed to camshafts, had both check valves faulty at the time letting oil pressure drop on deceleration so the hydraulic tensioner was not working correctly (chain rattle could be heard sometimes, totally fixed with new valves and said tensioner), I was doing donuts on snow and out of nowhere the automatic slushbox decided to spit out 2nd gear shifting into 1st, sort of moneyshift and overrev, check engine light appeared after 10 seconds and was that code

[ZenkiDori]

Originally Posted by PhaceN52

Vanos adjusters are not keyed to camshafts, had both check valves faulty at the time letting oil pressure drop on deceleration so the hydraulic tensioner was not working correctly (chain rattle could be heard sometimes, totally fixed with new valves and said tensioner), I was doing donuts on snow and out of nowhere the automatic slushbox decided to spit out 2nd gear shifting into 1st, sort of moneyshift and overrev, check engine light appeared after 10 seconds and was that code

Hi, I have a similar problem right now in my E61 with N43 engine, tried swapping the solenoids, but the error code always indicate on the exhaust side, and cel like to come up when I let go of the gas, what’s your suggestion I should do?

//Best regards

[PhaceN52]

Originally Posted by ZenkiDori

Hi, I have a similar problem right now in my E61 with N43 engine, tried swapping the solenoids, but the error code always indicate on the exhaust side, and cel like to come up when I let go of the gas, what’s your suggestion I should do?

//Best regards

Hi, do you hear any strange noise on decel, especially when bone cold? For how long it's been doing that? Imho you should try first to swap around camshaft position sensors and see if the error follows, like you've done for the solenoids. If it doesn't, tensioner appears to be similar between n52 and n43, if you remove it you can check that by compressing it on a flat surface, trying to slightly incline the body so that the piston rubs internally, if you feel a groove on the alu it could be a sign of check valves (mine had clearly one, the new obviously not), but please take these words with a grain of salt lol, we're just assuming things. Seems like check valves on N43 are buried in the head and don't know if you can change them without removing camshafts, so if swapping sensors doesn't lead anywhere, I'd open up the valve cover to directly see if the engine is out of time and a cam slipped a bit.. it's easier that it sounds, so retiming the engine (assuming the procedure is similar to the one on N52, but the architecture is, so..). With correct special tools, once at TDC and with flywheel locked, it's literally 1 bolt, you loosen it leaving the vanos adjuster and chain in place, grab the camshaft with a wrench to put it back straight, torque the new bolt and you're set.
Let us know what you find!

[ZenkiDori]

Yeah that’s what I suspected and was afraid over..😅 not feeling to comfortable adjusting cams on vanos engines.
The sensors threw a code about 6 month ago and I have changed them, car ran great until about a month ago and threw a fit, so I changed solenoid on exhaust side upon checking it via obd scanner, ran great for a day or two, code came back, switched them around, car now drives even worse and the code is still there, ordered another solenoid and is planning to swap out the intake side and change the oil and filter, I’ve read somewhere that maybe old oil have to much gunk in them so the solenoids isn’t reading correctly, and I think it’s a plausible theory because I have always changed oil after six month and car was running great, but for the last 2 years I haven’t been changing it out because to many cars to drive around in 😅 and I noticed upon taking apart the solenoids that the metal filter on them have collected some type of fiber that I suspect is from the oil filter, what’s confusing is that it’s only the solenoid on the exhaust side that is weird but the fibers are in both solenoids, and I tried resetting the car during drive and it works fine but when I release the gas sometimes the code come up sometimes not, what’s staying tho is the hesitation the engine have upon giving gas again, and by continuing to give it a lot of gas it will throw a code but not when smooth with it and no hesitation either, making me believe it have something to do with oil, but I will take your words into consideration and maybe try out and resetting my cams, was planning on changing the cam chain and tensioner anyway 🙏🏻

Edit: I forgot to write that it makes no weird sounds, engine sounds fine and run great for about an hour or two, especially when cold, but as the engine gets hotter it acts up more.

[PhaceN52]

Well, no weird sounds is a good start imho
Don't know if it could be affected by loose vanos bolts like in this picture (from another forum, not mine)



letting oil escape the adjusters on pressure drops, but if you're planning to do the chain you'll surely sort it out I think

[NMSUman]

Originally Posted by PhaceN52

Well, no weird sounds is a good start imho
Don't know if it could be affected by loose vanos bolts like in this picture (from another forum, not mine)



letting oil escape the adjusters on pressure drops, but if you're planning to do the chain you'll surely sort it out I think

Question, so I have been working on a similar issue on my '07 N54 (see link below). So there are some similarities that I am seeing.

So with mine, It is on the "Intake" side. But as it warms up, it is getting a clunky/jerky feeling right at ~1500 RPM on lighter load.

Tomorrow I will swap the two Solenoids to see if the issue moves?

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2069234