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      05-16-2012, 11:04 PM   #23
richy_335d
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o0timbo0o View Post
Just had my vac pipes changed and car is a little more spritely . pressure controllers next

I've just forked out on 2 pressure controllers that are on the left hand side rear of the engine. Are these the ones that people refer too when suggesting that there is loss of power ?
Or is it a single unit that resides underneath the inlet manifold ( manifold removal required to get ot it!) ?? RealOEM doesnt really give a functional description so I'm guessing all the way on this.

The 2 pressure controllers i have purchased requires new bracketing too as the design of the controller is different so you can't just change 1 , you have to do both.
It is the 2 controllers on the left hand side of the engine, very fiddly to remove. You have to remove the black tray that goes across the rear of the engine, and remove the air box, makes it easier to get arms/hands in, you'll need 10mm deep reach socket and various extension. Technically you can just replace one valve, the new valves are secured using 2 6mm nuts, the new convertors hole centres are different but you can just secure it using one nut. for what it costs you may as well do both while your in there, makes sense really.

ps check your vacuum accumulator, (black cylinder shape on top) these sometimes become brittle from the heat and the connections can crack which means a loss in vacuum (symptoms can be no power low down as the actuator on the small turbo has a very strong spring so requires a good vacuum to open it)
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      05-17-2012, 01:13 AM   #24
335DEE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richy_335d View Post
It is the 2 controllers on the left hand side of the engine, very fiddly to remove. You have to remove the black tray that goes across the rear of the engine, and remove the air box, makes it easier to get arms/hands in, you'll need 10mm deep reach socket and various extension. Technically you can just replace one valve, the new valves are secured using 2 6mm nuts, the new convertors hole centres are different but you can just secure it using one nut. for what it costs you may as well do both while your in there, makes sense really.

ps check your vacuum accumulator, (black cylinder shape on top) these sometimes become brittle from the heat and the connections can crack which means a loss in vacuum (symptoms can be no power low down as the actuator on the small turbo has a very strong spring so requires a good vacuum to open it)
excellent thanks very much, exactly the info I'm looking for.
I've bought both anyway. Since the vac pipes were changed it pulls a lot harder but is a flat spot and a bit of judder at about 2.5k, hoping the 180 quid on these devices sorts that out!
Thanks again
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      05-17-2012, 12:03 PM   #25
richy_335d
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Usually the pressure convertor problems relate to having now power above 2500rpm but hope it sorts ur problem
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      05-17-2012, 08:49 PM   #26
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On the larger turbo

Smaller turbo is below 2.5k rpm
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      05-18-2012, 02:19 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briers View Post
On the larger turbo

Smaller turbo is below 2.5k rpm
The issue I am seeing is when the changeover occurs at 2.5 k, there is a definite flat spot / hesitation/ judder . Hoping that changing both eliminates it unless there is something else that can be clogged up?
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