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      06-16-2014, 05:48 AM   #23
makkan00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboy98 View Post
Gonna be checking the temps on my main stat this week Sam and if low then fitting a new one complete with housing. I know the EGR one is fine (high resistance with the blow through test)
Thanks. If you end up changing it, do you mind taking few photos and put it on the forum with some instructions.
Another guy made a diy, but without looking at the car, there are certain things which are not clear.

Only if its possible for you. Thanks.
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      06-16-2014, 06:48 AM   #24
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I don't know much about the EGR thermostat but if the temperature is not reaching 90 degree but only 75-80 after 10-15 min drive (..with no sign of continuous increase..) I would first buy (replace) coolant thermostat.

I would like to know how can be tested EGR thermostat removed from the car..
and all it's attributes under car's bonnet...
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      06-16-2014, 06:51 AM   #25
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I don't know much about the EGR thermostat but if the temperature is not reaching 90 degree but only 75-80 after 10-15 min drive (..with no sign of continuous increase..) I would first buy (replace) coolant thermostat.

I would like to know how can be tested EGR thermostat removed from the car..
and all it's attributes under car's bonnet...
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      06-16-2014, 08:18 AM   #26
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I don't know much about the EGR thermostat but if the temperature is not reaching 90 degree but only 75-80 after 10-15 min drive (..with no sign of continuous increase..) I would first buy (replace) coolant thermostat.

I would like to know how can be tested EGR thermostat removed from the car..
and all it's attributes under car's bonnet...
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      06-16-2014, 12:04 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistryn View Post
This was done some time ago prior to changing the stat I was hitting no more than 76/78 degrees. My mpg around town I think dropped to 28mpg since changing the main stat within 10 mins into a journey I was hitting 91/92 degrees and mpg was 31/32mpg around town
Thats encouraging, cheers mistryn.
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      06-16-2014, 12:05 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makkan00 View Post
Thanks. If you end up changing it, do you mind taking few photos and put it on the forum with some instructions.
Another guy made a diy, but without looking at the car, there are certain things which are not clear.

Only if its possible for you. Thanks.
Yes mate, will do.
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      06-16-2014, 12:07 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juliano View Post
I don't know much about the EGR thermostat but if the temperature is not reaching 90 degree but only 75-80 after 10-15 min drive (..with no sign of continuous increase..) I would first buy (replace) coolant thermostat.

I would like to know how can be tested EGR thermostat removed from the car..
and all it's attributes under car's bonnet...
with the EGR thermostat removed try and blow through it, there should be a good amount of resistance if not then its knackered/broken.
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      06-18-2014, 06:42 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboy98 View Post
with the EGR thermostat removed try and blow through it, there should be a good amount of resistance if not then its knackered/broken.
+1, i took my old egr stat out and blew through it, it was like blowing through a straw with no resistance from both ends, i then blew through the new one and there was resistance from both ends, surely this means old one stuck open,

fitted new one and on motorways i achieve 88+ degrees as apposed to the 67 degrees before replacement

hth
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      06-18-2014, 10:08 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bazz780 View Post
+1, i took my old egr stat out and blew through it, it was like blowing through a straw with no resistance from both ends, i then blew through the new one and there was resistance from both ends, surely this means old one stuck open,

fitted new one and on motorways i achieve 88+ degrees as apposed to the 67 degrees before replacement

hth
So you did not change the main thermo?
General consensus is that if you change one, you should change the other to save the time and hassle.
I take it that you did not change the main one.
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      06-18-2014, 11:00 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makkan00 View Post
So you did not change the main thermo?
General consensus is that if you change one, you should change the other to save the time and hassle.
I take it that you did not change the main one.
I did not change the main one as it is a big job and did not want to change unnecessarily, as soon as the egr stat was changed which took me no more than 5 minutes start to finish the temp readings were spot on. If anything it buys me time for main stat which is more time consuming.

fyi - the egr stat is very straight forward in terms of fitting, so if you change just the egr stat its no extra hassle to then change the main stat.

regards
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      06-18-2014, 03:03 PM   #33
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I am having the same dilemma at the min. Temps are hovering round about 78degrees. Tempted to do the EGR stat myself but worried I might f*** something up. Looks fairly straight forward. Been quoted £276 from a local indy to supply and fit both main and egr stats.

Think it might be worth attempting the egr stat by the sounds of it though. Best to stick with genuine BMW parts though?
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      06-18-2014, 03:28 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murphyslaw View Post
I am having the same dilemma at the min. Temps are hovering round about 78degrees. Tempted to do the EGR stat myself but worried I might f*** something up. Looks fairly straight forward. Been quoted £276 from a local indy to supply and fit both main and egr stats.

Think it might be worth attempting the egr stat by the sounds of it though. Best to stick with genuine BMW parts though?
In either way, make sure that you buy the original part as the GSF / euro car parts fails within a year of fitting.
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      06-18-2014, 03:30 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bazz780 View Post
I did not change the main one as it is a big job and did not want to change unnecessarily, as soon as the egr stat was changed which took me no more than 5 minutes start to finish the temp readings were spot on. If anything it buys me time for main stat which is more time consuming.

fyi - the egr stat is very straight forward in terms of fitting, so if you change just the egr stat its no extra hassle to then change the main stat.

regards
Thanks. Egr seems very easy but I was aiming for both in one go.
I think I am thinking well ahead. I still need to look at the temperatures.
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      06-18-2014, 04:02 PM   #36
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cool, will see if I can get my hands on one before the weekend.

found this guide on youtube

its for a 5 series but looks like the same engine.

Only question I can see coming from that is bleeding the cooland system after?
Guess you just use the bleed screw ontop of the EGR thermostat?
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      06-19-2014, 01:30 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murphyslaw View Post
cool, will see if I can get my hands on one before the weekend.

found this guide on youtube

its for a 5 series but looks like the same engine.

Only question I can see coming from that is bleeding the cooland system after?
Guess you just use the bleed screw ontop of the EGR thermostat?
As much as I know the bleeding point in coolant system should be positioned on the highest point on the circuit, because there bubble air is gather..., which is near top of the engine.. under windscreen..
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      06-19-2014, 05:18 AM   #38
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i just put everything back together and bled the screw on the egr thermostat

job done
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      06-19-2014, 05:49 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makkan00 View Post
In either way, make sure that you buy the original part as the GSF / euro car parts fails within a year of fitting.
I changed mine for ECP thermos and they lasted less than 2 weeks. Fitted Genuine BMW and still going strong 8 month down the line. Both of them are of to change
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      06-19-2014, 06:10 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e91boi View Post
I changed mine for ECP thermos and they lasted less than 2 weeks. Fitted Genuine BMW and still going strong 8 month down the line. Both of them are of to change
Good to hear first hand experience. Thanks for sharing.
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      06-19-2014, 06:16 AM   #41
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Ok
I have driven my car this morning and went to London. It was on normal climate control settings and not auto (AC off).

Car struggled to have the temp up and it was on 78C on A13 (after 5-8 minutes of driving). When I hit the London traffic (< 5MPH traffic) it went up to 82-86 and kept fluctating.
Max it was on 90-91 if I drive it hard.

I thought that my both thermostats were gone.

So on the way back I clicked the auto and the AC turned on. No issues with the temperature and it went straight to 92 in first 10 minutes of driving. I went onto A2 and drove at 50MPH steady and at 70 MPH and it kept the temperature at 88-92C.

Now I am no expert but I like to understand the things and get to the bottom of it. From my little experience, I have seen that AC (auto climate settings) plays a major role with the temperature settings.

Has anybody else noticed that when the car is on auto, temperature rises quicly and stay on healthy margin?

Looking forward to see the results of other with the AC on and off.
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      06-19-2014, 07:08 AM   #42
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I always have my car with the auto setting on for the CC. Haven't noticed a difference. Picked up a EGR from the stealers today so I will fit it saturday and see how we go.
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      06-19-2014, 09:27 AM   #43
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This could be due to extra load on the engine? just a guess
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      06-19-2014, 10:21 AM   #44
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I think for the cost that is involved for even gen BMW parts (if you are doing it yourself) I would change them.
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