[acerboo]

Originally Posted by jonl1983

Cheers will get one ordered and fit it over the weekend. Luckily I had my DPF replaced under warranty about 10k miles ago so fingers crossed that should be ok

Thanks again

it is a diy but a bit fiddly but there is diy guidance on the forum somewhere not have time to find it at the moment

[foxy-stoat]

Bear in mind that if its cold out you will have your blowers on hot so will cool the coolant temp a litte.

I was concerned the other week when it was cold but when I switched off the heater the temperature went up a few degrees...add that to the low temperature outside and mid to high 70's isnt too bad.

If the EGR stat. is a cheap and quick to do yourself, then good idea to change it and see if it makes any difference.

[jonl1983]

The blowers were set to 17 and on lowest fan speed so don't think that was having to much of an effect to be honest

[jonl1983]

Oddly out today and after 8 or so miles temp was 86 and steady, went through town and then a roads and temp was up to 96?!? Engine was making a slightly different sound, sounded like more knock. Could this be a DPF regen?

Are the EGR stats prone to intermittent issues or should temps be constantly low?

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by foxy-stoat

Bear in mind that if its cold out you will have your blowers on hot so will cool the coolant temp a litte.

I was concerned the other week when it was cold but when I switched off the heater the temperature went up a few degrees...add that to the low temperature outside and mid to high 70's isnt too bad.

Ambient temperature shouldn't make any difference to running temperature, that what a thermostat is for, to keep the engine up there once warm. The issue could be when you haven't got enough load to get up there to start with. But assuming you have achieved the working range, it shouldn't just drop off. EGR 'stats do govern the EGR cooler, there is that 'bypass' flow when the EGR 'stat is open, so there is a possibility of fluctuation, even after we reach the main thermostat range. But it shouldn't then chill the engine out, as it will regulate the flow. A faulty one will allow the chill out, hence why many engines seem to hover in the mid 70's with more fluctuations.

One thing that masks our warm up, is of course our auxillary (PTC) electric heaters, we may think we have more heat in the engine than we really have, just a word of caution there.

Even with correct operating thermostats, on a cold day the engine will take ages to warm up. I know my 3.0d on a light run at constant a 50 -60mph, will take about 12 miles at around freezing, to get up above 80-degrees. Another 3 - 4 miles to settle in the mid 80's, HVAC temperatures and air flow make little difference once up to temperature. But will slow the initial warm up time, that is obvious, you can use more heat than wasted from diesel combustion, if the engine isn't working hard.

HighlandPete

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by jonl1983

Oddly out today and after 8 or so miles temp was 86 and steady, went through town and then a roads and temp was up to 96?!? Engine was making a slightly different sound, sounded like more knock. Could this be a DPF regen?

Are the EGR stats prone to intermittent issues or should temps be constantly low?

Mine is the same on a DPF regen'. I've seen mid 90's after a mid 80's running temperature. I had one the other day, started just before I dropped my mother home. So on restart I got the temperature up on the display and yes, when it started the regen' again, after a mile or so, the temperature climbed to 95 and stayed there for about 6 miles through the Glen, dropped back to 85 by the time I got home, after the 12 mile run.

HighlandPete

[shane55]

Chaps if anyone knows where the DIY post is could they point me too the link...interested to see it now!

[SelSol]

Originally Posted by acerboo

neither should the red intercooler hose!

Haven't you learnt yet that ANYTHING can go on a four year old 335d, I'm living proof of that

[acerboo]

Originally Posted by SelSol

Haven't you learnt yet that ANYTHING can go on a four year old 335d, I'm living proof of that

maybe but mine was 2years old!

[acerboo]

Originally Posted by shane55

Chaps if anyone knows where the DIY post is could they point me too the link...interested to see it now!

it was my post (technical) search for increase in fuel consumption 335d
there is everything you need

[rsmallwo]

Did a journey of 8 miles to work, its 6.5m dual carriageway 40-80 then 1.5m traffic, couple of stop starts. my car just got to 80 when i parked. Coolant when i set off was 16.

On way home its the above journey but vice versa. It got upto 91. But ot was trying to regen given the engine revs. Coolant temp was 22 when when i set off.

I did notice my coolant temp go down when going down off ramps to dual carriageways by 3-4c, when i was coasting and under no/little accerlaration.

My cars sept 2006 build with 84k miles.

My egr stat need replacing?

[Stringbag]

I know that this is an old thread, but I just wanted to say thanks - my 335d was running mid 60deg with a mpg that struggled into the 30s.
Changed the EGR stat (20 min job) and now the temp shoots up and stabilises in the low 80s. Mpg now 38-40. £29 well spent!
My question is should I have the main thermostat changed? it runs low 80s, occasionally up to 88 in town but usually 82 ish. What would be the signs of a totally failed main thermostat?

[mobilejo]

Originally Posted by Stringbag

My question is should I have the main thermostat changed? it runs low 80s, occasionally up to 88 in town but usually 82 ish. What would be the signs of a totally failed main thermostat?

Signs of a failed stat = fluctuations and not reaching 88c.

Once warm (heatsoaked warm) your temp shouldn't drop. Every car I've seen on forum threads (including my own) that has had both stats changed for new at the same time has hit 88-90c in about 5-7 miles and stayed there. If thats what 2 new stats do, then anything else shows failure to some degree, even though yours sounds like minor failure.

Having said that, Like Pete says even few month old main stats can fail and start holding around mid 80's.

[HighlandPete]

^^^^ +1

Really running too low. By your description the main' 'stat is opening low, not failed open. I'd change it, certainly before next winter.

HighlandPete

[mobilejo]

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

^^^^ +1

Really running too low. By your description the main' 'stat is opening low, not failed open. I'd change it, certainly before next winter.

HighlandPete

What he said.

[Mustard3]

I had the same thing (running in the 70s though), changed the EGR stat, easy diy, which improved things by a few degrees - then changed the main stat and now warms up quicker & stays between 88 & 95. You must change the main stat, cost £200 parts & labour at my local indi.

[mobilejo]

Originally Posted by Mustard3

I had the same thing (running in the 70s though), changed the EGR stat, easy diy, which improved things by a few degrees - then changed the main stat and now warms up quicker & stays between 88 & 95. You must change the main stat, cost £200 parts & labour at my local indi.

I'm not sure how the engine bay lines up in the 335d, but in my 320d the main stat was an easy DIY, but just quite long - its a simple case of unbolt stuff to get to the stat, unbolt the stat, then attach new stat and put everything else back where it came from. Then refill coolant and follow proper bleed procedure.

Being a 4 cyl, I think there is alot more room between the front of my engine (where the main stat is located) and the radiator. I could have put my daughter in there to do the job I'm guessing yours will be tighter but still a straightforward DIY.

The stat cost me about £40ish from the dealer, so paying £200 means around £160 of that is labour. If you have a spare half day and decent tools, I think you could DIY.

[Mustard3]

Apparently on the 335d the main stat is only really accessible from underneath, and a real pain to get to. Not really a driveway job, for me anyway.

[mobilejo]

Originally Posted by Mustard3

Apparently on the 335d the main stat is only really accessible from underneath, and a real pain to get to. Not really a driveway job, for me anyway.

Oh, well that sucks. Sorry dude.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by mobilejo

Being a 4 cyl, I think there is alot more room between the front of my engine (where the main stat is located) and the radiator. I could have put my daughter in there to do the job I'm guessing yours will be tighter but still a straightforward DIY.

You just need a smaller daughter....

My 330d was a bit tight, but I only removed the minimum, and did it all from above, without jacking the car. For those thinking 'coolant'.... extracted it from above. Lost about a mug full.

HighlandPete

[garytc78]

^^^ Like Pete said it's done from above and almost anybody came do it as long as you can follow instructions, it really is a piece of pi$$.
As for £200 to supply and fit I think thats a bit pricey considering both stats came to about £45 and took about an hour and a half
and thats somebody who isn't a mechanic and did it on the path.

[Mustard3]

Originally Posted by garytc78

^^^ Like Pete said it's done from above and almost anybody came do it as long as you can follow instructions, it really is a piece of pi$$.
As for £200 to supply and fit I think thats a bit pricey considering both stats came to about £45 and took about an hour and a half
and thats somebody who isn't a mechanic and did it on the path.

The EGR stat was about £30 from BMW, I don't know what the main stat would cost, or whether they'd be the same parts for 330 & 335.

I'd read from several members that it's difficult to access the main stat on the 335, maybe it's different for the 330 - don't really know cos I didn't try.