[DerekGates]

Just looked up pricing on the passenger mount... $600-800?! I want to tackle this before it becomes a real problem but that price is absurd.

[cm335d]

Originally Posted by DerekGates

Just looked up pricing on the passenger mount... $600-800?! I want to tackle this before it becomes a real problem but that price is absurd.

Is that for a shop to install them? The engine mounts alone are around $225 for both sides from FCPEuro.

[DerekGates]

Originally Posted by cm335d

Is that for a shop to install them? The engine mounts alone are around $225 for both sides from FCPEuro.

Whoops, just realized this was the Diesel forum. I was quoting IS mounts.

[RED-d]

Originally Posted by cm335d

Just replaced my motor and tranny mounts this weekend. Took about 4 hours total from start to bonnet closed and tools all put away. Here's a few links of the old vs new parts for comparison (new is on the left). The drive side mount was worn, but not riding on the bump stop. The passenger side, however, was shot and riding on the stop. This combination resulted in the increased vibration felt in the car, and very noticeable noise when taking hard left turns under power/speed. The old tranny mounts looked and felt fine to me, but I replaced them anyhow since I was there and had the parts on hand. They are only $7 each for the Lemforder tranny mounts anyhow.
Also replaced the vacuum lines, since I had the opportunity and the new factory vacuum line on hand.
The car is like new again. This project was worthwhile and yielded some satisfying results. My car has 109k miles on it by the way. If you're over 100k, I'd recommend looking at replacing your mounts soon.

Driver Side: https://photos.app.goo.gl/CAQkY1R3qHNMdVaX6

Passenger Side: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ki6VvMJTyhC1HUAP6

Tranny Mounts: https://photos.app.goo.gl/VemxFyjHJjC8B9yL8

How difficult was it to route the new vacuum lines for these mounts?

[cm335d]

Originally Posted by RED-d

How difficult was it to route the new vacuum lines for these mounts?

Very easy once you're under the car with the mounts off, its pretty easy to do.

[montr]

I need to replace the motor mounts on my 2010 335d at 112 K miles.
I read thru the steps in www.newtis.info . The first step is "11 00 670 Securing engine in installation position". I do not have any of the special tools required in this step.

I have a set of ramp, 2 hydraulic floor jacks, jack stands and a lot of tools.
What did you do to lift the engine in order to replace the engine mount?

Thanks

[RL18]

Originally Posted by montr

I need to replace the motor mounts on my 2010 335d at 112 K miles.
I read thru the steps in www.newtis.info . The first step is "11 00 670 Securing engine in installation position". I do not have any of the special tools required in this step.

I have a set of ramp, 2 hydraulic floor jacks, jack stands and a lot of tools.
What did you do to lift the engine in order to replace the engine mount?

Thanks

I have an engine support that I bought and used to lift the engine. Should be available at harbor freight for cheap. There’s a thread here on how to lift the engine from the bottom, it’s one of the sticky threads.

https://m.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-...not%20provided

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1089933 (post #10)

[cm335d]

Originally Posted by RL18

I have an engine support that I bought and used to lift the engine. Should be available at harbor freight for cheap. There’s a thread here on how to lift the engine from the bottom, it’s one of the sticky threads.

https://m.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-...not%20provided

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1089933 (post #10)

I used that exact bar as well. I still needed to use a jack with a strategically placed 2x4 on end to get the motor 'cocked' over on each side. Careful where you are jacking and DO NOT jack on the engine pan. I know some have stated they did this, but I am against ever jacking on the engine pan. Good luck, its not too hard, just time consuming.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by cm335d

I used that exact bar as well. I still needed to use a jack with a strategically placed 2x4 on end to get the motor 'cocked' over on each side. Careful where you are jacking and DO NOT jack on the engine pan. I know some have stated they did this, but I am against ever jacking on the engine pan. Good luck, its not too hard, just time consuming.

I removed both top bolts on the engine mounts then wrapped the chain around the little turbo pipe to get the passenger side mount , then around the engine mount bracket to get to the drivers side mount. Kind of nerve wracking using the little turbo piping as a lift point... but it seems very sturdy.

[cm335d]

Originally Posted by RL18

I removed both top bolts on the engine mounts then wrapped the chain around the little turbo pipe to get the passenger side mount , then around the engine mount bracket to get to the drivers side mount. Kind of nerve wracking using the little turbo piping as a lift point... but it seems very sturdy.

Yikes. Well, at least you didn't break anything doing it.
Did you change the vacuum lines while you were at it? I'd also recommend at least inspecting the rear transmission mounts as well.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by cm335d

Yikes. Well, at least you didn't break anything doing it.
Did you change the vacuum lines while you were at it? I'd also recommend at least inspecting the rear transmission mounts as well.

I’m actually testing all my vacuum lines this weekend because I got a weird power drop and some weird noises. I’m hoping it’s just a EUV or pressure converter gone bad though. Haven’t looked at the transmission mounts.. probably should do them though with 117k

[ground_zero]

Mine is doing this too... At least it's a cheap enough fix.

[montr]

Thanks RL18 for the recommended engine lift bar. I got one now.
The passenger side mount is collapsed but driver side seems OK. I will be replacing both mounts.

How do access the 13mm bolt on the side of the engine mount? From under the car, on the passenger side, there is no room on the side mount to loosen the bolt. Do I have to remove the wheel and a partition to access it from the side instead of under the car?

Thanks for the help

[cm335d]

Originally Posted by montr

Thanks RL18 for the recommended engine lift bar. I got one now.
The passenger side mount is collapsed but driver side seems OK. I will be replacing both mounts.

How do access the 13mm bolt on the side of the engine mount? From under the car, on the passenger side, there is no room on the side mount to loosen the bolt. Do I have to remove the wheel and a partition to access it from the side instead of under the car?

Thanks for the help

Yes, you do have to remove the wheel and also turn the steering wheel so that you have the most space to get your hand and ratchet in there.

[RL18]

Isn’t there's a plastic panel in the way of the bolt access port too? I remember just taking off the wheel and that plastic panel and I could get to the bolt

[montr]

Originally Posted by RL18

Isn’t there's a plastic panel in the way of the bolt access port too? I remember just taking off the wheel and that plastic panel and I could get to the bolt

Yes, there is a panel there. I will remove the panel to get access.
Thanks

[pwner4once]

What brand of engine mounts is everyone getting from fcpeuro?
I see CORTECO as one of the brands but not sure if they sold reliable parts.
Only ECSTuning seem to carry the Geniune BMW brand at the moment.

[blk35d]

Yo 2011 335d here

My engine mount(s) went at about 130k miles. Symptoms were both the grinding while hard left acceleration and cabin vibration.. It's not your typical cabin vibration if some of you are wondering. It is a shakes the entire f-ing cabin of the car vibration.

Cost for my Indie to install and parts was $680.

[Texas335d]

Originally Posted by gavronm

Most common and obvious one is a grinding or rubbing noise from the front right corner of the car when accelerating hard while turning left. Many mistake it for wheel rub or a bad hub bearing.

This is a great piece of information. Now I know what I am going to do this Saturday. I have 98k miles on my D and I have been going crazy trying to figure out what the front right wheel was rubbing on.

[ranthum]

You don't need the engine support bar, but I'm sure it would make the job easier. I unbolted the top of the mount, raised the engine with a floor jack, loosened the subframe bolts, and had enough room to get the old mount out and the new one in. I didn't have to mess with the arm coming off the block. It was a relatively straight forward job.

Also, I replaced mine before they went bad. My car has about 90k on it and while the mounts are near the end of their life, I will happily ship my old ones (you pay shipping) to anybody that needs some to get them by for a while. They might last a few months or a few years.

[GeoFX]

Sorry to necro this thread but is this what a collapsed motor mount looks like on an E92 335i? The dealership advised me that this a "critical" failure and they should be replaced. Picture is of the passenger-side mount that the tech took. Thanks!

[mantis]

going to be doing this chore soon, thanks for the info guys