[Kenny's X5]

Question for Zach or anyone else:

I am planning to buy Klasse All in One and the glaze sealant. Am I correct by saying the AIO is applied first then the sealant or vice versa?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Kenny's X5

Question for Zach or anyone else:

I am planning to buy Klasse All in One and the glaze sealant. Am I correct by saying the AIO is applied first then the sealant or vice versa?

Yes, if you're set on using the Klasse products that would be the correct process (AIO then Sealant Glaze).

If you aren't set on using the Klasse products, there are many other great products that I personally find more user friendly.

-Zach

[Kenny's X5]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Yes, if you're set on using the Klasse products that would be the correct process (AIO then Sealant Glaze).

If you aren't set on using the Klasse products, there are many other great products that I personally find more user friendly.

-Zach

Thanks! I'm not really set on Klasse products. I'm looking for a fairly easy product to use that does its job that I can apply by hand. Any suggestions...??

Thanks!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Kenny's X5

Thanks! I'm not really set on Klasse products. I'm looking for a fairly easy product to use that does its job that I can apply by hand. Any suggestions...??

Thanks!

Certainly... a newer product on the market that has been very well received for a “one-step” product is the Meguiar’s D166 Ultra Polishing Wax. This product is an all-in-one, meaning it has abrasives in it to polish away light defects to enhance gloss and also leaves behind a layer of protection. This can be used by hand or with a machine.

It isn’t necessary to add more protection, however many people do opt to top an all-in-one product with even more protection from a synthetic sealant or a wax of their choice. Some examples would be Meguiar's M21 or Jescar Power Lock.


Hope that helps!

-Zach

[Kenny's X5]

Thanks again Zach. What applicator pads do you suggest?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Kenny's X5

Thanks again Zach. What applicator pads do you suggest?

For hand polishing, I like the Polishing Pal Kit. This enables you to use the same type of polishing pads that we use for machine polishing.

The orange light cutting pad and white polishing pads are the most versatile options for polishing in my opinion. A black finishing pad is great for spreading wax or sealant. These are all included in the kit mentioned above.

-Zach

[Kenny's X5]

Ok. Last 2 questions (I hope)...

How many extra pads would I need for an X5?

I'm assuming when using the pads, I would go up and down then the side to side cross pattern? At any point do I buff in a circular pattern?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Kenny's X5

Ok. Last 2 questions (I hope)...

How many extra pads would I need for an X5?

I'm assuming when using the pads, I would go up and down then the side to side cross pattern? At any point do I buff in a circular pattern?

To use a random orbital / dual action polisher as an example, the path of the pad is an orbital motion... this generally works well when hand polishing as well.

For spreading wax / sealant, straight line motions are generally much faster and easier. Make sure you’re spreading a very light coat for easier removal.

I typically recommend a minimum of 2 of each type of polishing pad (only 1 needed for waxing), but at the end of the day, more pads are ideal so it depends on your target budget. If your budget allows, I would recommend 3-5 of each pad.

Polishing Pads: How Many Do I Need?

-Zach

[zero2sixtyZ]

What have your impressions been of the new line of leather/textile sealants coming out? I've had my eyes on Gyeon or Nanolex variants for some new leather/alcantara parts being added, and potentially to my current seats post Leatherique treatment.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by zero2sixtyZ

What have your impressions been of the new line of leather/textile sealants coming out? I've had my eyes on Gyeon or Nanolex variants for some new leather/alcantara parts being added, and potentially to my current seats post Leatherique treatment.

I have used CarPro Leather Coating several times, and it does a nice job in helping to keep the leather clean and make future cleaning easier. Also, application is absolutely a piece of cake.

I have Gyeon Leather Coat sitting on my shelf in my stack of products to test, along with a lot of other Gyeon products, so whenever I get around to using it I will be sure to post my results on our Ask-A-Pro Blog.

-Zach

[SHEEDI]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Certainly... a newer product on the market that has been very well received for a “one-step” product is the Meguiar’s D166 Ultra Polishing Wax. This product is an all-in-one, meaning it has abrasives in it to polish away light defects to enhance gloss and also leaves behind a layer of protection. This can be used by hand or with a machine.

It isn’t necessary to add more protection, however many people do opt to top an all-in-one product with even more protection from a synthetic sealant or a wax of their choice. Some examples would be Meguiar's M21 or Jescar Power Lock.


Hope that helps!

-Zach

Zach, how about Carpro essence with orange medium cutting pad and topped it with reload or gtechniq sealant?

[ArizonaErik]

Zach, recently purchased this 2014 that has the M Sport Vinyl on the side rocker panel.
It looks like the previous owner didn't take care of the vinyl beneath the middle of the doors where the water drains as there is discoloration from the hard water we have here in AZ.
Any ideas of best thing to try to remove/treat/hide?
Thanks in advance.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by SHEEDI

Zach, how about Carpro essence with orange medium cutting pad and topped it with reload or gtechniq sealant?

Yes, that is a fairly popular combo.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by ArizonaErik

Zach, recently purchased this 2014 that has the M Sport Vinyl on the side rocker panel.
It looks like the previous owner didn't take care of the vinyl beneath the middle of the doors where the water drains as there is discoloration from the hard water we have here in AZ.
Any ideas of best thing to try to remove/treat/hide?
Thanks in advance.

I would do the following:

Thoroughly wash the area with shampoo and water, spending a little extra time wiping that specific area. Dry and then inspect the results.

Use a water spot remover on a microfiber towel and wipe the solution in an inconspicuous area to see if it has any effect on the staining. If successful and does not harm the vinyl, then repeat on the entire stained area.

If water spot removal unsuccessful, apply a small amount of a fine polish to a microfiber towel and gently rub in an inconspicuous area to see if it removes the staining. If successful and does not damage the vinyl, then repeat on the entire stained area.

For protection I would recommend a nano coating on all exterior surfaces including paint and vinyl.

Water Spot Remover: CarPro Spotless
Light Polish: Meguiar’s M205
Nano Coating: Gyeon Pure

[ArizonaErik]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

I would do the following:

Thoroughly wash the area with shampoo and water, spending a little extra time wiping that specific area. Dry and then inspect the results.

Use a water spot remover on a microfiber towel and wipe the solution in an inconspicuous area to see if it has any effect on the staining. If successful and does not harm the vinyl, then repeat on the entire stained area.

If water spot removal unsuccessful, apply a small amount of a fine polish to a microfiber towel and gently rub in an inconspicuous area to see if it removes the staining. If successful and does not damage the vinyl, then repeat on the entire stained area.

For protection I would recommend a nano coating on all exterior surfaces including paint and vinyl.

Water Spot Remover: CarPro Spotless
Light Polish: Meguiar’s M205
Nano Coating: Gyeon Pure

Thanks so much for your time and write up! -E

[SHEEDI]

Zach, I hope all is well with you,

can claying and doing IPA wipe damage any ceramic coating?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by SHEEDI

Zach, I hope all is well with you,

can claying and doing IPA wipe damage any ceramic coating?

Hey... a diluted IPA wipe or prep solvent (ie Eraser, Prep, Panel Wipe) will not remove a coating, though I suppose it could theoretically have an effect on hydrophobic properties in certain situations.

Using detailing clay on any surface, coated or not, can cause superficial damage. The act of rubbing a solid (clay) back and forth across the paint always has the potential of marring or scratching the surface. If you are using minimal pressure, ample lubrication, and are not working on heavily contaminated surfaces then I would suspect it should be quite safe... but it really just depends. I personally try to avoid claying unless I plan on doing some kind of polishing afterwards.

-Zach

[SHEEDI]

Thanks Zach, another question, what is the importance of using IR Cure lamp to cure ceramic coating and what brand IR Cure lamp you suggest for a starter detailer under budget?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by SHEEDI

Thanks Zach, another question, what is the importance of using IR Cure lamp to cure ceramic coating and what brand IR Cure lamp you suggest for a starter detailer under budget?

Infrared lamps heat the surface which promotes faster curing of the coating, and some manufacturers say it can increase hardness though I have never seen proof of that.

This is most beneficial to professionals who want to apply the coating and get the car out the door ASAP rather than waiting 24+ hours for the coating to be safe to be exposed to the elements.

Infratech has some rather budget friendly IR lamps starting around $150-200 if I remember correctly.

-Zach

[tlow98]

Hi Detailed Image!

I applied Cquartz UK about 2.5 years ago and it’s finally gotten to the point where I needed to do an Iron-x and have been topping up with Reload.

I’m looking to re-do a layer of ceramic. I notice you mention Gyeon Pure on here. Any pros/cons vs Cquartz?

Car is left outside on the street, so the strongest longest lasting coating is my highest priority.

Thanks!

[upstatedoc]

Best way to get the dust off the gauge lenses? I made the mistake of using a pre moistened windex wipe and scratched the plastic on a previous vehicle

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Hi Detailed Image!

I applied Cquartz UK about 2.5 years ago and it’s finally gotten to the point where I needed to do an Iron-x and have been topping up with Reload.

I’m looking to re-do a layer of ceramic. I notice you mention Gyeon Pure on here. Any pros/cons vs Cquartz?

Car is left outside on the street, so the strongest longest lasting coating is my highest priority.

Thanks!

Unfortunately I have not used Gyeon Pure yet at this point so I cannot comment on how it compares to CQuartz. Based on my use of many other Gyeon products, I can tell you I have been a fan of almost everything I have tried from their product line. If you are looking to give something new a shot just for the sake of keeping things interesting, I'm sure Pure would be a great choice.

If you haven't already ready this How-To Article, be sure to check it out: How To: Gyeon Quartz Q2 Pure by Jeff McEachran

Originally Posted by upstatedoc

Best way to get the dust off the gauge lenses? I made the mistake of using a pre moistened windex wipe and scratched the plastic on a previous vehicle

Hi - I have not had any issues in the past with a plush, clean microfiber towel and some interior spray detailer.

Double Thick Edgeless Towel
Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer


Zach McGovern
Former Professional Detailer
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author