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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > ConnectedDrive / I-Drive / Navigation Related Discussion > I-Drive Navigation Retrofit!



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      08-22-2015, 12:07 PM   #529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booster4075 View Post
T-MC-G ...we're trying!



Okay, thanks to Steaman for some inspiration on this one! However, I have to disagree with some of the info on the CID - there are two ports on the back...one for the dedicated LVDS cable (which DOES go directly to the CCC and CID), the other port likely gives the CID power, ground and bus connection as you say. I did some studying with the WDS and came up with this (I think I have this figured out "on paper"....)

Display (CID):
-is hooked up by dedicated LVDS cable directly to CCC (12 pins each side, looks like a shielded cable)
-is hooked up by another 12-pin connector (although only four pins are used according to WDS) I figure if you tap into the 16-pin connector (x13812) on the back of the CCC, you can get all the signals we need:
Pin 1 of the CID: 30G (power) ----> hook to pin 15 on back off CCC(x13812)
Pin 3 of the CID: 31L (ground)----> hook to pin 12 on back of CCC(x13812)
Pin 5 of the CID: K-Can High -----> hook to pin 11 on back of CCC(x13812)
Pin 6 of the CID: K-Can low ------> hook to pin 9 on back of CCC(x13812)

I-drive controller:
-Is hooked up via 4-pin cable which is non-existent on non-idrive cars - if we tap into the same pins (as above) for the CID, I think we can get it working also:
Pin 1 of the controller: 30G(power) ----> hook to pin 15 on back off CCC(x13812)
Pin 2 of the controller: 31E(ground) ---> hook to pin 12 on back of CCC(x13812)
Pin 3 of the controller: K-Can high -----> hook to pin 11 on back off CCC(x13812)
Pin 4 of the controller: K-Can low ------> hook to pin 9 on back off CCC(x13812)

CCC Fan:
The three pin fan on the back of the CCC needs to be hooked up to the CCC (x13813 - 12-pin connector, left port on back of CCC, only used for AUX on the normal professional radio I think...) - this is how I think it should be:
Pin 1 of fan: Volts(+) ----> hook to pin 1 on back of CCC(x13813)
Pin 2 of fan: diag ------> hook to pin 11 on back of CCC(x13813)
Pin 3 of fan: Volts(-) -----> hook to pin 5 on back of CCC (x13813)

Antenna lead - well, hmmm....we'll have to tear the headliner down and look at what's up there now...but very simple unless we use a hidden antenna under the dash. Personally, I would like to hook it up like it was designed! We'll figure it out with all the resourceful people on here...

Will someone please check my pin-outs vs. the WDS and see if it all seems right? If so, I'll attempt to hack up my spare harness and test it on the "the bench" before ordering a new dashboard up.
Have you confirmed if this pinout works? I just got a CIC unit and was planning to tap the CID and controller into the back of the CIC harness using your instructions.
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      08-22-2015, 12:12 PM   #530
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Originally Posted by AWDBooSTIn90 View Post
So i got my fakra antenna extension cable off ebay. Hooked it up from the pre-wiring in the trunk and routed it to the idrive head unit in the dash. Works perfect!

I ordered the bracket off ebay for my head unit (^#3)

So it looks like my idrive retrofit is pretty much done. Everything works as it should. I have a mulf2 svs already so im thinking of adding usb and bluetooth next.

My cluster isnt exactly the same as the newer 2007+ i have an early 06 build 335i. But it fits in nice and tight and wont be a problem.

Next step is to decide if i want to go to cic with combox or go the NBT route.

Hmmm decisions decisions lol..

Ill prob end up going with NBT. Ive been pricing them both out and there both about the same only because you dont need the combox with the NBT.

Anthony
Maybe you can help I'm confused about the wiring to the CID and controller. How did you hook up the power, ground and can high/low?
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      08-22-2015, 12:23 PM   #531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booster4075 View Post
Yes...we are aware of where the "proper" locations are to hook up these items...as per the WDS. In addition, the pins you looked up may vary due to the month of manufacture. Don't panic. These locations I furnished in my first list are "easy" to hook-up locations right behind the CCC....they can be "tapped" right off the back of the CCC - I've tested them and they all DO work. However, when I do my retrofit, I will be utilizing the "stock" OEM locations (listed in my second list) with the correct wire colors (and correct guage of wire) so that it appears and functions as "stock." I have NOT tested these locations (yet.) Where you are stating to hook up the controller may be correct for the month of manufacture for the car you are looking up. I believe (it may not be true) that diagnosis if something should go wrong years from now will be improved if all items are hooked up in the proper location of the JBE. One thing though, I don't plan on tearing apart a junction to merely tap into it (like x9331) - I'd rather get power/ground at the source. Even though I want to hook up the controller in the "stock" location, the power and ground supply for the i-drive controller is not that critical (clearly it works just fine by tapping in behind the CCC as I have tested it.)

I am not too worried about IBS unless I hook items up in a non-stock location. When this retrofit is complete, I plan to hook these things up just as if it came from the factory. Things will go to "sleep" just like they should and not draw excessive current. While testing this system, I had it hooked up for several days - it went to sleep after 20 minutes or so (like things normally do after you leave the car) - no battery issues whatsoever....and this was not even in the "stock" location for power/ground. I'm not losing sleep over IBS - I'm losing sleep over VO changes!
I plan to hook up my wires directly to the cic wiring harness.. the lazy way, because why not? I'm wondering if I should throw a fuse on the power line going to the controller and CID. Just manually wire up a fuse in-line. What do you think? And what amp fuse would you recommend?
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      08-22-2015, 10:54 PM   #532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssshake
Quote:
Originally Posted by Booster4075 View Post
Yes...we are aware of where the "proper" locations are to hook up these items...as per the WDS. In addition, the pins you looked up may vary due to the month of manufacture. Don't panic. These locations I furnished in my first list are "easy" to hook-up locations right behind the CCC....they can be "tapped" right off the back of the CCC - I've tested them and they all DO work. However, when I do my retrofit, I will be utilizing the "stock" OEM locations (listed in my second list) with the correct wire colors (and correct guage of wire) so that it appears and functions as "stock." I have NOT tested these locations (yet.) Where you are stating to hook up the controller may be correct for the month of manufacture for the car you are looking up. I believe (it may not be true) that diagnosis if something should go wrong years from now will be improved if all items are hooked up in the proper location of the JBE. One thing though, I don't plan on tearing apart a junction to merely tap into it (like x9331) - I'd rather get power/ground at the source. Even though I want to hook up the controller in the "stock" location, the power and ground supply for the i-drive controller is not that critical (clearly it works just fine by tapping in behind the CCC as I have tested it.)

I am not too worried about IBS unless I hook items up in a non-stock location. When this retrofit is complete, I plan to hook these things up just as if it came from the factory. Things will go to "sleep" just like they should and not draw excessive current. While testing this system, I had it hooked up for several days - it went to sleep after 20 minutes or so (like things normally do after you leave the car) - no battery issues whatsoever....and this was not even in the "stock" location for power/ground. I'm not losing sleep over IBS - I'm losing sleep over VO changes!
I plan to hook up my wires directly to the cic wiring harness.. the lazy way, because why not? I'm wondering if I should throw a fuse on the power line going to the controller and CID. Just manually wire up a fuse in-line. What do you think? And what amp fuse would you recommend?
Everything you tap into power wise is factory fused already.

You can make the connections behind the idrive headunit for the idrive controller and CID no problem. Its still on the same wiring run so its fine either way.

That being said, adding an extra fuse can never hurt!
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      08-25-2015, 08:07 PM   #533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booster4075 View Post
I'm NOT kidding about anything about this topic. I am technically inclined (I changed one car of mine from an automatic to 5-spd) ...goal oriented, and hey, if I can get it done for less than the $2100 option, I gotta try!
7+ years later from the original post, I say thank you sir. I just got my system all set, powered up and tested. I just have to swap my dashboard as soon as I'm on vacation at the end of this week. I'm very exited.
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      11-24-2015, 03:49 PM   #534
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Does anyone have a copy of the PDF referenced in this post? It seems the original link is now dead.
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      01-03-2016, 12:31 PM   #535
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Anyone have that PDF file ? I have a non idrive e90 looking to retrofit idrive.

Thanks !
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      01-30-2016, 07:18 PM   #536
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Anyone?! The pdf pleaseeeeee!!!!
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      02-02-2016, 03:27 PM   #537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asus389 View Post
Does anyone have a copy of the PDF referenced in this post? It seems the original link is now dead.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rizioca View Post
Anyone have that PDF file ? I have a non idrive e90 looking to retrofit idrive.

Thanks !
Quote:
Originally Posted by hate2writej View Post
Anyone?! The pdf pleaseeeeee!!!!
Here's a mirror on my Google Drive...hate2writej, I know I already sent you this in PMs but I quoted you anyways .

booster's PDF for retro
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      05-09-2016, 03:02 PM   #538
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Sold my BMW, so my navigation project is effectively cancelled.

However, I had already purchased practically everything I needed for this conversion so now I'm selling it as a complete conversion kit, including double-scoop dash panel. No head unit, display, or controller. This allows the buyer to select either the CCC (not recommended), CIC, or NBT system.

Click on this link for the marketplace ad.
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      10-24-2016, 06:00 AM   #539
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do u know what the bmw nummer is for the contact to the idrive? the 4pin
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      10-30-2016, 01:36 PM   #540
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Originally Posted by berne View Post
do u know what the bmw nummer is for the contact to the idrive? the 4pin
Might this be what you are looking for?
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      06-02-2018, 12:48 AM   #541
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My Junkyard iDrive retrofit is underway. I should be under $250 for the swap all said and done. Can just add the VO with inpa or ncsexpert like I did when retrofitting a CD changer emulator?

Everything is hooked up except the idrive knob and the head unit van. The CID will not power up. I checked the connector as the CID and it is getting 12v power and 4v at the bus. I am stumped on what to do.





I used OEM tap wires I got from the dealer. + power is from a fuse tap, everything else is how the DIY did it.

Update 2: I took the head unit apart and manually removed the two disks. It still did not work. I wonder if either the head unit or screen are dead since they did come from the junkyard.

Update 3: Everything is working now.

For future reference:

in CAPPLE change ZBE from high to low

Thats fixed the knob

Last edited by Nickco43; 06-15-2018 at 03:46 PM..
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      07-30-2018, 06:16 PM   #542
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Thank you much

Back in 2011 I had a '06 325i with CCC iDrive. After a couple years, sold it. Couple years later, kinda missed my E90. So I picked up a '08 328i, but no iDrive. Although not as enthusiastic with my E90 as then, missing my iDrive, I was motivated enough to do this non-iDrive to CIC retrofit. Just wanted to give a huge Thanks!! to Booster, and others like voucher76, etc. Without your detailed posts, I couldn't have done it. Booster, if you're still on here, you're a legend.

To add something new/different: i) I couldn't get the center console out / over the hand brake. So instead of running the GPS wire under the carpet, it is exposed for about 4 inches (from back of console to going under rear seat). ii) I found that I didn't have to disconnect any of the wires from underneath the driver side footwell area; just left them hanging.

I still have some coding issues but with all the major hardware and wiring out of the way, the rest is cake.

I know this is a really old thread but just wanted to say thanks again to Booster, voucher76 and all you others that have contributed over the years.
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      07-30-2018, 07:01 PM   #543
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Thanks, yo!

I'm glad some peeps, even years later, are getting use out of it. I've sold my car long ago, but still think about and miss it. Maybe I'll get another one to tinker with. I'm sure there are much better tools out there now for programming, etc. so hopefully its easier than when I did it!
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      07-30-2018, 09:17 PM   #544
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Wow

OMG, glad to hear from the man himself! Thanks again. Yeah, you might as well pick one up - even the LCIs can be had for pretty cheap these days.
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      10-19-2018, 08:59 PM   #545
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well here we go...

I picked up a 06 325xi as a parts and it has CCC iDrive. I have a non-drive 07 335i.

I have already purchased a new cid as the one that came in the parts car was bad. I am now looking for a newer ccc unit (after 03/07) because the one in the parts car is shot. Once I have everything working in the parts car I will remove everything and install into my 335i

Now who can do remote coding for me to get the retrofit working correctly?!
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      10-28-2018, 09:06 PM   #546
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Does anyone know the part number for the small pins that go into the connectors on the back of the fuse panel?
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