[Brule]

When I looked back at the ebay listing it states you can buy optional washers. The image shows extra washers so I thought they would chuck a few in.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by Brule

O2 heat bungs turned up.

No copper gasket
No adjustable rings to make the flow the right way.

cheap but now I need custom parts for them to work.

photos

What the theory around how these work mate
Ive been have issues with stock 02 sensors with my ST
Would be keen to know if these work
Pretty cheap fix if they do

[Brule]

They reduce heat to the O2 sensor. Should make them last longer.

[Brule]

Just did engine and transmission oil today.

Trans oil was a bit low. That might be why its was slipping.

Really need a track open to do any testing.
Going to Dyno this Friday.

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by Brule

Just did engine and transmission oil today.

Trans oil was a bit low. That might be why its was slipping.

Really need a track open to do any testing.
Going to Dyno this Friday.

Does it drive better with more fluid in the transmission Brule? We will all be interested in what numbers you get on the dyno. Hopefully, big ones.

[Brule]

The gear shift on the last oil was soft into high gear now its back to being very strong. it's like a sledge hammer banging your diff kind of strong shift.

Did 2 1/4 runs and low gear kept spinning when wot even at a 3krpm launch.

So yes I was short of fluid but it still holds between 5krpm and 6krpm the whole run. It would of had a quicker mph and et today but I have a voltage issue sith 3 walbro 450 pumps.

[Brule]

Low gear spins the wheels to easy I cant lower boost anymore with jb4.

[Coupes33]

For what it is worth, my calculations show that your car at 6,500 rpm in 1st should be doing 143 kph and when you change into top the revs should drop to 3,570 rpm before accelerating. At 5,000 rpm in top the speed should be 200 kph and at 6,500 rpm 260 kph. These are calculated without any slippage. As your converter appears to be able to stall to 4,000+? rpm, when you change into top gear, it is in the stall zone so would be slipping straight up. If it doesn't drop below 5,000 rpm when you change gear then it is slipping heaps so you are not getting power to the road. If I remember correctly, I believe Dan had a similar issue with his first converter with too much stall (slippage) and had to get one made with less. After 4,000 rpm in either gear, the converter should be locked and not slipping. The dyno should tell you what torque and power the engine is making at those rev ranges. If the converter is slipping too much, the engine will not build up any torque at that rev range where the converter is slipping.

[Brule]

Heres the last run I did.

About 3 minutes in is a dragy run.

[Coupes33]

Looking at the video, it appeared at 2,000 rpm in 2nd gear your speed was 80 kph even though with the very, very loose converter, when the rpm went up to 2,500 rpm the speed didn't vary much. I checked my calculations and it was spot on 80 kph at 2,000 rpm in 2nd gear. What is the max rpm that you can stall to Brule. With such a loose converter, I reckon you could go 5,000 rpm or more.

[Brule]

yea 80km is 2000rpm
100km is 2600rpm

You mean rev out 1st gear another 500rpm?

yes I can, logs have been around 5900 6100 in 1st gear so I could go more rpm but at low boost its falling over in power so I go to 2nd gear early.

Either way I need more testing and the 6266 wont be on for long. I just want to dyno it and do a 10.x dragy run and sell 6266 turbo kit and put 7675 back on.

7675 is different so I will see how the converter responds around 700hp. I emailed the converter place so see what they say. The revs are high but 114mph 17psi boost 6 degrees adv is ok. my rb evos were 22psi 121mph 10 degrees adv.

[Coupes33]

Brule, I found this article interesting reading. This may help in determining the stall of your converter and whether, it is what you thought it should be. It mentions one way to determine the stall is to select the 1:1 ratio in your gearbox or 2nd in your case and take off to a speed of 10-15 mph and then plant the accelerator to the floor. The tacho should instantly rise to the stall rpm and once noted back off the accelerator.

https://www.rodauthority.com/tech-st...ose-correctly/

[Brule]

Its around 4000 4500rpm.

Rips pretty good.

I put the walbro 255 in as a lift pump today.

I turned the meth off aswell.

Did a test run and bank 2 O2 sensor was playing up.
I think I put an old one in when I put the engine back in.
Ill swap it with the other O2 I have which should be only 1000km old.

Keen to do a full pass.

[Socket]

subbed

[Brule]

Removed 02 sensor.
Put my newish 1000km one back in.
Trims and afr back to normal.

Will go for a test run later in the week.
Cancelled dyno this week as I'm to busy at work.

Going for a 11.99 115mph 17psi. Might even let the tyres down and remove all the extra stuff in my car to have a chance.

[Brule]

Been tuning during the week.

Fuel trims are back under control.
I removed the ti 274 lift pump and put my 6 year old walbro 255 back in.
Un hooked methanol setup.

Hitting consistent lpfp pressures now.
The battery must of been under high load with 3 ti 274 fuel pumps, 1 meth pump and normal bmw electronics still going.

Did 4 or 5 runs and got a PB of 12.41 121mph.
17psi 6 degrees adv, rear tyres 38psi and dewy road made it hard to grip at 100km still an issue.

Next I will let tyres down, remove extra items in car, socket set methanol bottle, drag race helmet, other tools ect.
Keep it at 17psi and 6 degrees and go for a 11.99 122mph.


very cold ambients near freezing at 16 degrees. Iats went up 2-3 degrees on a 1/4mile run without meth water which is unreal.



image of dragy run attached

[Brule]

attempt 2

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by Brule

Been tuning during the week.

Fuel trims are back under control.
I removed the ti 274 lift pump and put my 6 year old walbro 255 back in.
Un hooked methanol setup.

Hitting consistent lpfp pressures now.
The battery must of been under high load with 3 ti 274 fuel pumps, 1 meth pump and normal bmw electronics still going.

Did 4 or 5 runs and got a PB of 12.41 121mph.
17psi 6 degrees adv, rear tyres 38psi and dewy road made it hard to grip at 100km still an issue.

Next I will let tyres down, remove extra items in car, socket set methanol bottle, drag race helmet, other tools ect.
Keep it at 17psi and 6 degrees and go for a 11.99 122mph.


very cold ambients near freezing at 16 degrees. Iats went up 2-3 degrees on a 1/4mile run without meth water which is unreal.



image of dragy run attached

Brule, you need to invest in a set of Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials so that you can get traction.

[Brule]

100% yes.

Im looking for a set of 17s to fit some mickey et streets. Theres a few different et streets to choose from but I want 17 40 275s.

apex wheels will be over 3k
bmw 17s ive got but I want a nicer set
Australian drag wheels look good but they are suited for commodore offsets and are not measured in et. need to contact ozzy tyre go find et available.
Not sure what other 17 inch wheels I should get.

[Brule]

12.59 121 video.

Did a 12.41 121 but no video

[Coupes33]

Originally Posted by Brule

100% yes.

Im looking for a set of 17s to fit some mickey et streets. Theres a few different et streets to choose from but I want 17 40 275s.

apex wheels will be over 3k
bmw 17s ive got but I want a nicer set
Australian drag wheels look good but they are suited for commodore offsets and are not measured in et. need to contact ozzy tyre go find et available.
Not sure what other 17 inch wheels I should get.

The wheels that I use are Koya Racing which are 17" x 9". Though they are not the lightest rim around.

[Brule]

How do they sit on your car et44?