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Wheel and tire protection vs insurance and patching tires
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08-19-2014, 03:27 PM | #1 |
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Wheel and tire protection vs insurance and patching tires
I got quoted $2000 for 5 years of wheel and tire protection. I'm running the oem Bridgestone rft's on 19's. The roads here are pretty shitty. I just called up my insurance progressive and they said that wheel damage would be covered under collision. I just pay a $250 deductible when my wheel cracks. As far as tires, I'll just pay $20 to get them patched up. Eventually I'll switch to Michelin PSS and get the road hazard insurance from discount tires for $250.
What do you think of this alternative to the bmw protection plan? I really don't wanna shell out $2000. The dealer originally quoted me $2500 but I got him down. |
08-19-2014, 03:57 PM | #3 |
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Hell no. For $2,000 you could find yourself a nice set of forged wheels with tires on this forum. I'm originally from the Northeast and I've never once bent a wheel or blew out a tire while I drove cars lowered on coilovers so I'd be pissed if I threw away 2 grand. Most places you buy tires from will warranty them anyways which I think at Town Fair Tire I use to pay like $10-$15 per tire and that will cover tires that cannot be repaired as well. As for the wheels, If I was rolling on expensive wheels, I'd just pay the $250 deductible if I messed one up.
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08-19-2014, 04:30 PM | #4 |
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Hell no.
You can buy a set of Apex wheels and get some non-runflats for a little more. If you kill a tire or wheel, it's time to upgrade.
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08-19-2014, 05:17 PM | #5 |
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Buddy hit a pothole so bad it bruised the crap out of his tire to the extent of replacement, but didn't damage the wheel. Considering I could buy two sets of OEM tires with a few hundred bucks left over to replace a rim, I don't think I'd take the bait. I HAVE had one hole plugged so far, bolt gave me a slow leak. It's held up fine for at least 6mo so far.
Consider that, ignoring catastrophic road damage, either of the sets of tires that $2k could buy you should last almost as long as the coverage itself. Does the plan cover replacement for normal wear?
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08-19-2014, 05:26 PM | #6 |
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What everyone fails to realize is an OEM rim is 750 average- if it's a lease then don't bother, you'll never get ROI in time. If buying the car, then definitely invest in rim and tire protection.
As others said, ditch the run flats, and get some tires you'll actually enjoy the car with. With the RFTs, you'll definitely get your money's worth too, because you'll be bubbling sidewalls left and right, and those 300$ plus RFTs add up quick. |
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08-19-2014, 05:40 PM | #7 | |
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08-19-2014, 05:49 PM | #8 |
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I just prefer OEM rims to be honest.
I've never cracked one (though I've slightly bent a few) in the 10 years I've had bimmers (with 19s 5 months out of the year on two) and I drive on some of the shittiest, pothole laden roads in the Tri-state. For me, that speaks to the quality and strength of OEM for me, so I'll stick with them. That said, it's worth it for me to have the rim and tire protection on the car- it has already paid for over five tires that blew out there sidewalls during 2 rough winters - at around 200 or so apiece- and I plan on keeping this car for quite a few years longer. Everyone has their own values and priorities so I guess just do what works for you in the end. |
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08-19-2014, 05:49 PM | #9 |
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My dealer gave me the same pitch and showed me the stack of rims in the shop ready to go out for repair. I guess I was young and stupid at the time (ok, maybe young not so much) but I did it. My five years is up next month and I never used it. $2K down the drain, although I will say I have 18" wheels and ditched the runflats immediately so that may have helped.
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08-19-2014, 05:56 PM | #10 | |
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http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst...626166953.html They're so cheap I'm considering whether to pick up a set of 16"ers for dirt to put winters on for ski season.
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08-19-2014, 09:18 PM | #11 | |||
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After doing some more reading, it seems like non-rft's not only have a better ride, but you can patch it up unlike rft's. Also, the rim is less likely to get damaged because its softer. I've decided to skip it. If my wheel cracks, ill either get it repaired, buy a replica, or have my insurance take care of it. If I get a flat on my rft, im just gonna switch them all out for non-rft and get the road hazard protection when I buy them. |
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08-19-2014, 09:32 PM | #12 | |
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Totally not worth it then, you'd have to have multiple massive failures for it to pay off. I'm sure there are people who HAVE, but I can't imagine it's even as common for the deal to payoff as extended vehicle warranties.
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08-19-2014, 09:36 PM | #13 | ||||
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NY and NJ potholes from hell hard at work! |
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08-19-2014, 10:31 PM | #14 |
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08-20-2014, 04:33 AM | #15 |
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You'll be fine. They are great tires. Just bad luck and shitty judgement early on for me. I've become pretty good at pothole avoidance since then
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08-20-2014, 05:50 AM | #16 |
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Insurance is a financial mechanism to protect yourself from unabridged liabilities that would ruin your financial situation, which is why one carries collision, medical, and death auto insurance. The concept of "self insure" comes up as a line where it is more affordable for a person to pay out of pocket based upon the risk of have such an occurrence. In the case of damage to wheels and tires, the risk is high, however the liability is low and it is a known fixed cost (i.e. you know how much wheels and tires cost). It makes no sense to buy insurance on a consumable item such as tires. As your insurance company said wheels are covered in collision (and comprehensive) coverage. The deductible you chose is $250, which is about half the cost of an OE wheel. You can lower your deductible to $100 if you are concerned about that and it would probably would not cost you $400 additional in insurance price. Or leave it at $250.
The issue really is if one can't self insure for a possible $750 damage liability in the oft chance he may damage a wheel and tire once and a while, then one should really consider if they can afford to own and use an automobile. |
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08-20-2014, 06:35 AM | #17 | |
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08-20-2014, 09:25 AM | #18 |
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[QUOTE=JunkyardDogg;16495423]What size were your wheels?
18" on two Audis and 19" on two BMWs. At the end of the day, if spending 2 grand makes you sleep better at night, go for it. I just wanted to share my personal experience and that is of course different than what other's may have experienced. Dark Knight 335 has already stated that he has never had to replace a wheel, just 5 tires which would be covered under a separate warranty you can purchase when you get new tires that does not cost anywhere near $2,000, but more like $15 per tire and that will cover all the blow outs you can ever dream of!
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2009 335i M Sport coupe, BSM with black/aluminum interior, 6MT, JB4 G5, MDH Backend Flash, Walbro 255 inline LPFP, VRSF Inlets, BMS 3" catless DP's, Borla Aggressive catback, ER FMIC, ER charge pipe, Tial BOV, BMS 2.3 gal Meth Kit, BMS Sport Oil Cooler Valve, Ported CDV, RB PCV, Cyba ram air scoops, Status Gruppe SRS coilovers, ECS trailing arms, Forgestar F14 SDC.
Last edited by brewnami; 08-20-2014 at 09:32 AM.. |
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08-20-2014, 10:59 AM | #19 |
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I didn't spend 2,000 either, far less- can't actually remember
I hear ya man - it's a tough call because everyone has a different idea on what they need or don't need, or what they want to buy or not buy LOL |
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