[ncd328ie90]

I have a A/T Pre-lci 328I e90 and i park in my garage in the nights, its a bit cold in my garage but still not as cold as it is outside. Every morning my car has a very rough idle when i am at a stop light (you could feel the vehicle shake side to side) and the rpms jerk between .5-1rpms.

I thought it was because the car was to cold and i didn't let the car heat up before i take it out but I've been giving it a substantial amount of time to heat up and it does the same thing. And now i smell burning oil pretty much every morning now.

And on another note... when its idling rough at a stop the car occasionally shuts off completely (even on D) .

Im curious to know what you guys think is going on,

[PureE92]

Well the only logical thing to do here is to trade it in for a 335i

[xxxjecxxx]

I would look at replacing spark plugs and coils. It's fairly simple to do and you should consider replacing all of them if you haven't already done so.

[Socket]

could be HP fuel pump, carbon build up (needs walnut clean) or sparks and coils. I'd start with sparks and coils as stated above

[cpie168]

Is it possible that there would be no codes thrown even if the coils are going bad?

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by ncd328ie90

I have a A/T Pre-lci 328I e90 and i park in my garage in the nights, its a bit cold in my garage but still not as cold as it is outside. Every morning my car has a very rough idle when i am at a stop light (you could feel the vehicle shake side to side) and the rpms jerk between .5-1rpms.

I thought it was because the car was to cold and i didn't let the car heat up before i take it out but I've been giving it a substantial amount of time to heat up and it does the same thing. And now i smell burning oil pretty much every morning now.

And on another note... when its idling rough at a stop the car occasionally shuts off completely (even on D) .

Im curious to know what you guys think is going on,

No codes of any sort?

Originally Posted by Socket

could be HP fuel pump, carbon build up (needs walnut clean) or sparks and coils. I'd start with sparks and coils as stated above

Originally Posted by PureE92

Well the only logical thing to do here is to trade it in for a 335i

He fortunately doesn't have a 335i, so he does not have to deal with most of that awfulness.

Originally Posted by cpie168

Is it possible that there would be no codes thrown even if the coils are going bad?

When they initially start going bad it's possible you won't get a code.

[Delusive]

Those are signs that you need to change your ignition coils soon, when one goes the rest will follow eventually one by one. It's best you get them replaced for preventative maintenance.

Also our cars don't need walnut blasting and we don't have to worry about the HPFP since our cars only have an electric fuel pump.

[gryphun]

I have a 2006 e90 330i pre-lci. I had the same symptoms as you and did the following: 1) New coils, 2) New plugs, 3) cleaned my vanos solenoids. Rough idle went away and its been smooth sailing ever since. Since I was looking at the engine I double checked the plug for the eccentric shaft sensor to see if there was any oil, luckily dry as a whistle.

[cpie168]

Hi gryphun, can you describe how to clean the vanos solenoid? Is there a diy guide for it? Thanks!

[Mavus]

Originally Posted by ncd328ie90

I have a A/T Pre-lci 328I e90 and i park in my garage in the nights, its a bit cold in my garage but still not as cold as it is outside. Every morning my car has a very rough idle when i am at a stop light (you could feel the vehicle shake side to side) and the rpms jerk between .5-1rpms.

I thought it was because the car was to cold and i didn't let the car heat up before i take it out but I've been giving it a substantial amount of time to heat up and it does the same thing. And now i smell burning oil pretty much every morning now.

And on another note... when its idling rough at a stop the car occasionally shuts off completely (even on D) .

Im curious to know what you guys think is going on,

I had very similar symptoms 6 mo ago and thought it was a fuel pump or coils. The car would shut off at the light and it had hard time starting up again. It ended up being a bad ignition relay.

[gryphun]

several DIY on the web for the Vanos Solenoids. Pelican parts also has a DIY with pictures on how to removal / install. If you are going to remove them I would recommend buying new gasket set for vanos solenoids. Part #11367548459 (I paid $16 I think)

[E46driver]

Originally Posted by PureE92

Well the only logical thing to do here is to trade it in for a 335i

agreed.

[David0ff]

Originally Posted by Socket

could be HP fuel pump, carbon build up (needs walnut clean) or sparks and coils. I'd start with sparks and coils as stated above

HP Fuel pump no such thing on an N52
carbon buidlup is non existent compared to the N54/55 and N57.

coils and plugs are a good place to start

[InControl]

Originally Posted by ncd328ie90

I have a A/T Pre-lci 328I e90 and i park in my garage in the nights, its a bit cold in my garage but still not as cold as it is outside. Every morning my car has a very rough idle when i am at a stop light (you could feel the vehicle shake side to side) and the rpms jerk between .5-1rpms.

I thought it was because the car was to cold and i didn't let the car heat up before i take it out but I've been giving it a substantial amount of time to heat up and it does the same thing. And now i smell burning oil pretty much every morning now.

And on another note... when its idling rough at a stop the car occasionally shuts off completely (even on D) .

Im curious to know what you guys think is going on,

Are you running a tune?

[mike3000fl]

fuel air spark

fuel
run some techron for injectors, start buying gas somewhere else in case your gas station has water or contamination, use the 93 octance

air
clean your MAF sensor, check air filter (not microfilter), check for vacuum leaks, check all the hoses

spark
check plugs, check gaps on plugs, buy a new coil and try it in each cylinder one at a time and see if the idle improves.

[ncd328ie90]

Originally Posted by InControl

Are you running a tune?

No, The Car is Bone stock... (well besides cosmetic stuff)

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by mike3000fl

fuel air spark

fuel
run some techron for injectors, start buying gas somewhere else in case your gas station has water or contamination, use the 93 octance

air
clean your MAF sensor, check air filter (not microfilter), check for vacuum leaks, check all the hoses

spark
check plugs, check gaps on plugs, buy a new coil and try it in each cylinder one at a time and see if the idle improves.

Mike is right. Try Techron Fuel Injector cleaner first as is the cheapest way to start with. I had a similar issue last year and poured a bottle and was the fix. You should do this every 6 months or so to avoid this from happening. Keep ua posted.

Good Luck!

[cuiter23]

Same problem I had. Change the ignition coils, and also do the spark plugs while you're at it.

[koches]

Originally Posted by xxxjecxxx

I would look at replacing spark plugs and coils. It's fairly simple to do and you should consider replacing all of them if you haven't already done so.

+1 had the same problem and with new plugs the rough idle when stopped was gone

[hakmazter]

Someone didn't push the plug in far enough on my MAF sensor and I had a similar problem, check it. I assume it was when they changed the oil and looked at the air filter.

[Three_thirty_I]

Surprised this has not been suggested yet, but check for oil leaks around the Eccentric Shaft sensor plug - you will need to lift and remove the decorative engine cover to get to this. The fact that you mention smelling oil, it could just be a leaking valve cover gasket as well as the gasket for the above sensor. If there is oil in the plug when removed, that's generally a sign that the sensor is damaged and causing the weird shaking and rev counter jumping.

The would no doubt be an N52, so not direct injection, no need for walnut blasting.

I would start by checking this sensor and for signs of oil leaking around the valve cover - could also pull the coil packs to see if there is any oil leaking in the in the spark plug chambers.

If it is the sensor swimming in oil, and you do have signs of oil leaking around the valve cover, at least you are shooting two birds with one stone so to speak - the valve cover needs to come off in order to replace the Eccentric Shaft sensor, so replacing the valve cover gasket is prudent if not necessary.

Edit: I see that it was mentioned, but definitely something I would check. Obviously also have the codes read...