[bimmerzeit]

Originally Posted by Rockon

I did not check filters yet but will.

Cleared the code and was fine all day so hoping it was an adaptation or relearning that needed to happen.

I did check the oil housing cap and I'm not sure what constitutes broken or too loose.

The cage does connect from the cap. Inside there is a spring and a black plunger/nipple piece. It all reassembles fine and holds the filter to the cap. But not sure how loose is too loose. It's snug when it's tightened down.

For everyone searching and landing here, check the filter and housing/plastic basket piece first. It will take you 5 minutes, very easy, and commonly broken or missing

[thesalboy]

Originally Posted by jamesm3r

The car recently had an SES light so, I ran codes for it and there were several for the eccentric shaft sensor and the 2A82 code for VANOS intake. . . . I replaced the intake VANOS solenoid. . . . but, the 2A82 code came back

OP, I know this was a while ago, but: Were there any symptoms either when the SES first showed up or after you replaced VANOS solenoids?

On my 11/2008 N51 E93, I had 2A87 no symptoms; swapped solenoids; on first start: rough, hunting idle and 2A82; replaced both solenoids with new; still have rough, hunting idle and 2A82, even after swapping solenoids again including with originals. Once idle settles down, car drives great. No other codes.

During that first start after first solenoid swap, I heard a loud POP from the engine and am worried my VANOS may have broken like yours. You have the older security Torx units - those Torx back out - mine is supposedly new enough to not have those, but you never know...

In this video, I'm not touching the gas or anything after starting it.

[u2b]

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[Lukke]

Hi! I've the same issue guys... 330i 2005 N52... It behaves like in the video thesalboy posted. After startup, the engine speed goes up without touching the gas and light up the yellow light. My car has 330,000 km / 205,000 miles.

I've got the intake vanos error and the yellow light. It started showing up maybe 4 years ago. The yellow light showed up maybe once in 3 months. Now the error is there constantly.

We've already replaced those parts:
- both vanos solenoids (although not original parts)
- both vanos setting units (also not original parts)
- camshaft position sensor
- distribution engine chain
- cleaned vanos filters (from the left side)
- checked oil filter basket - there was NO basket at all for almost 8 years since I've had this car! So we replaced there the correct part with the basket
- cleared adaptation and correctly set timing

Nothing has changed. I am stumped. Still getting the vanos intake error. Any other ideas, guys? Should I replace the non-OEM parts (solenoids and vanos units) with the original ones? I am afraid the issue could come from any other part of the engine that "vanos intake"... What do you think? Valvetronic for example?

Thanks a lot!

[Tunafish]

If anyone having this issue wants to experiment that can code.. Change settings in CAS "DELAY_KL50L" to C8 (note original value).. This is supposed to delay activation of variable timing to 2 seconds after start..

[thesalboy]

Originally Posted by Tunafish

If anyone having this issue wants to experiment that can code.. Change settings in CAS "DELAY_KL50L" to C8 (note original value).. This is supposed to delay activation of variable timing to 2 seconds after start..

Same behavior, just delayed for about 2 seconds after mostly cold start (car has been sitting for almost 2 hours since I drove it a few miles). Restored to original (wert_03) setting.

When I drove the car earlier, I restarted it within about 5 minutes of stopping, and there was none (or substantially less) of this behavior. I haven't checked VANOS check valve(s), so maybe I'll do that. But if this 2-second delay didn't work, I don't think it's the check valve. 2 seconds is plenty of time for full oil pressure.

When I started it stone cold this morning I heard a TICK - not as loud as the POP - as idle hunted around. I think there is something mechanically wrong.

Forgot to note: after one of my early test drives - maybe after installing new solenoids, I've lost track - I got a 2A99 - cam out of time. Haven't seen it since tho.

[Tunafish]

Sorry it didn't work .. But out of curiosity you said you had same issue but delayed ~2seconds.. Does this mean that issue was actually cured 2 seconds longer? Or just the engine took 2seconds longer to start... Thanks for your insight.

[thesalboy]

Originally Posted by Tunafish

Sorry it didn't work .. But out of curiosity you said you had same issue but delayed ~2seconds.. Does this mean that issue was actually cured 2 seconds longer? Or just the engine took 2seconds longer to start... Thanks for your insight.

Totally appreciate the help! It was a good thought.

Started like normal. Behavior started 2-seconds after start. I watched my video again, and actually, it wasn't that different in terms of time, so maybe it had no effect at all. Although, when I changed to C8, it went straight into low-rpm bogging. But it doesn't always do exactly the same thing every time, except maybe comparing stone cold to stone cold starts (but I really can't remember I've started it so many times now).

[thesalboy]

And before anyone asks, yes, I checked my oil filter cage, even though I change my own oil and knew it was intact.

[thesalboy]

INPA status shows VANOS jumping around all over the place, on both intake and exhaust.

I now have both 2A82 and 2A87.

Pretty sure something is mechanically wrong.

I think I hear a faint VANOS rattle as RPMs drop after revving - my M62tu E53 has it bad on startup, so I know what it sounds like.

Looks like VC must come off.

[Lukke]

Guys, today my mechanic changed the cam seals and the problem persist... So I am stumped, no idea what to do next. Maybe the last thing to change the solenoids and vanos units with the OEM ones.

And the next thing - today an error of an internal battery of alarm showed up... BUT with the kilometer data of 524,280 km / 325,000 miles So I think that this explains my issue. I bought the car as an 6-year-old one with 144,000 km / 89,000 miles.

See the link with the screenshot of diagnostic: https://pasteboard.co/JACq09kN.png

[thesalboy]

Pulled VC, but everything looks fine. I see no damage anywhere. Got the timing tool set and it all fits with the holes in the impulse wheel lining up, so the engine is properly timed.

I can't get to the VANOS check valves with my Torx sockets, so I'll need to buy an extended reach set.

Lukke, not sure what brand you went with, but I replaced VANOS solenoids with Pierburg, which I understand is an OE supplier. I couldn't find anyone definitively trash their parts, and read that dealers stock them.

[Lukke]

Here is my video during engine start. After 6 seconds the rpm goes up, I don't touch a gas pedal at all. And in this time, the yellow light shows up and the vanos error code saves (if I delete it before). Does anyone have an idea if any other thing can cause this? For example "air flow meter" - I don't know the name in english or valvetronic...?

[u2b]

[/u2b]

thesalboy: It's the similar behavior like yours. THe rpms go up after 6 seconds.

[thesalboy]

Lukke, my symptoms are a bit different - idle issues immediately on startup, and idle goes up and down, with bogging.

Finally found someone with very similar symptoms to mine: https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/b...-horse.827386/

He replaced cam seals and it didn't fix it, but then changed oil again and that fixed it.

I'll check VANOS check valves when my long Torx get here. Betting they are fine.

I've decided against tearing into the engine any further. Will do some oil changes, maybe with a "cleaner" in one of them. Will report back when that's done.

[Lukke]

thesalboy: Just reading his thread... Really weird it fixed after the oil change... I ordered new non return valves (originals) and new solenoids (originals) and will have changed them tomorrow... So we will see. I am not sure if I should look for any other things like MAF, Valvetronic or eccentric sensor... Btw there are two camshaft sensors, aren't they? Because I am pretty sure my mechanic replaced just one.

[thesalboy]

Originally Posted by Lukke

thesalboy: Just reading his thread... Really weird it fixed after the oil change... I ordered new non return valves (originals) and new solenoids (originals) and will have changed them tomorrow... So we will see. I am not sure if I should look for any other things like MAF, Valvetronic or eccentric sensor... Btw there are two camshaft sensors, aren't they? Because I am pretty sure my mechanic replaced just one.

There are two cam sensors, one for each cam.

I believe you and I are both dealing with bearing ledge issues - on the intake side, where there is no ledge on N51/2, that means only replacing the head can fix it. The cam seals can only do so much if the ledge is worn. The only hope is that nice clean oil will seal better.

[Lukke]

Originally Posted by thesalboy

There are two cam sensors, one for each cam. I believe you and I are both dealing with bearing ledge issues - on the intake side, where there is no ledge on N51/2, that means only replacing the head can fix it. The cam seals can only do so much if the ledge is worn. The only hope is that nice clean oil will seal better.

We already changed the cam seals and there were almost no worn at all... And yes, there IS bearing ledge 11127566732, but we decided not to changed it because there were no scratches or damage... The deposition spot of the seals was just greyed out, but definitely not damaged. So we just replaced the seals for the new teflon ones. I don't think this issue is bearing ledge related at all.

[thesalboy]

Originally Posted by Lukke

I don't think this issue is bearing ledge related at all.

It's really hard to know whether the ledge wear is bad enough - the tolerances are tiny. I don't know, maybe your aftermarket VANOS units are the issue. I would assume those are just gussied up junkyard parts, so the spring could be worn. These units are not like those of the past, which had seals that could fail, so there's not much else it could be. But you're talking about $500-$600 per unit for genuine BMW. I should have an update next week after I do two oil changes with some driving in between.

[Lukke]

Guys, so! I replaced both solenoids - now BMW original parts, same with BMW non-return valves 11367541692 and the problem is GONE!! So Vaico solenoids DOES NOT WORK!! I ended up with aftermarket parts. Completely!

[E92William]

Originally Posted by Lukke

Guys, so! I replaced both solenoids - now BMW original parts, same with BMW non-return valves 11367541692 and the problem is GONE!! So Vaico solenoids DOES NOT WORK!! I ended up with aftermarket parts. Completely!

Not the first time this has happened. Vaico seems like a good brand to people buying aftermarket but most of their stuff is straight up junk from China. Glad it's fixed

[thesalboy]

Good news Lukke, thanks for updating.

Oil change did not affect anything. After seeing Lukke's post, I activated the original genuine solenoids using a battery. Both seemed to work the same, but there is very little movement in the solenoid, so hard to know. And one was a bit sticky at first.

I pulled the Pierburg units and swapped in the originals, clearing all codes. Same startup behavior still, but after a short drive, I now have only 2A82 - recall that 2A87 had started showing up too.

I'm going to do some more test driving and then swap solenoids (intake to exhaust) to see if I can get the code to move back to 2A87 (alone). I see now that AutohausAZ and RM European no longer offer Pierburg solenoids. It may well be that only Genuine BMW solenoids work.

[thesalboy]

Well, turns out I swapped connectors when I first swapped solenoids, so my idle problems were caused by the exhaust solenoid being on the intake circuit, and vice versa. Still need to drive it to see if 2A82 or 2A87 shows up - original solenoids are installed, but I don't know if they are in their original locations.

[thesalboy]