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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > RB Inlet DIY



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      11-14-2015, 11:35 PM   #1
Brule
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RB Inlet DIY

Inlet DIY

Not as good as Robs DIYs but it should help some people


Remove intake
The front inlet is very easy.
I first removed my intakes and stock diverter valves.
Then take the two front bolts that are connected from inlet to the block, these are small star bits like the picture below.


Once you have the two screws remove all the coolant lines off the bottom of the inlet before pulling it out. There are about 4 coolant lines on it down the bottom left. They are just in plastic U shaped clips just pull them out.

Pull the inlet of the snout of the front turbo and block the turbo off with some cloth or anything that will stop debris from getting into the turbo.
Get a hack saw or similar to cut through the inlet on the top right and near the snout. You could probably get it out with one cut but it was very easy with two cuts.

The new inlet literally fits straight in seconds, just put your clamps on and make sure the inlet is positioned towards the fan shroud away from the pulleys then tighten the clamps.
Rear inlet
Take your diverter valves and pcv and sensors from the rear inlet.
Take out two screws that are attached to engine block, there is no room for even a 1/4 inch ratchet so I used set of vice grips and the small star bit.
I stripped one so just levered the inlet off it and undone the other screw later with vice grips.
Take out the front down pipe. I couldn’t see any point taking out the other downpipe as the extra space I needed wasn’t by taking the other one out. You need to take both post DP sensors out for room though
Pry the inlet off snout with a screw driver might need a long one and small one.
Once it is off the snout try and place something up there to stop debris getting in the turbo. You need a blade at least 400 mm long like a hacksaw blade or something a bit stronger that long. Just cut the rear inlet from the bottom, cut it pretty much where it turns 90 degrees up.
Once that's done it comes out pretty easy literally 2 minutes just wiggle into position where it’s free and pull it.

Getting rear RB inlet in....
Need to buy a 600mm 1\2inch extension on a ratchet to take a bracket off transmission so I can pull inlet down. Need a torx bit E18 like this one below, that’s the bracket you need out to pull the inlet down.


When you slide it in try pushing it down diagonally towards turbo.

Important!!! Tie the end of the inlet up with sticky tape to get it over one of the lips.

Pull the inlet down enough to slide onto the snout and feel around until you can pull the clamp over the silicone.
You will have to go up and down a few times to get it through just keep pushing until it looks like enough length once pushed onto the snout, so pull it past the snout a bit before trying to put it on

I put the clamp on the turbo snout at the size that fitted around the silicone house plus about 2-3mm of slack around the silicone. This makes it easy to tighten once on the snout.
Put the clamp on with the screw facing where you can tighten it. For me it was the driver’s side (AU RHD) when it’s on the bottom this way you can actually tighten it. I put it the other way first and had to take it off.

When you put the clamp on the snout make sure you can get to it to tighten it. I had to put my clamp with the head facing the driver’s side (AU RHD) at the bottom so I could get the screwdriver in there.
It only has space for one hand and it’s tight.
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Last edited by Brule; 11-14-2015 at 11:48 PM..
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      11-15-2015, 02:22 AM   #2
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what was the time it took you? Good write up!
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      11-15-2015, 02:32 AM   #3
Brule
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1.5 days

Around 6-8 hours working

Could be done in 3 or less next time.

I wasted hours trying to cut the rear inlet with a hand saw that just didn't fit in there.

I also wasted hours trying to push the rear inlet down before i taped it up on the end.
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      11-16-2015, 12:14 PM   #4
Rob@RBTurbo
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Wow thanks sir for the write up! This will come in VERY handy to help out others in the community DIY installing their RB Silicone Inlets! Will be linking this thread to the other one on the other forums. Attached a couple pics of the inlets alone as well.

Rob
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      11-16-2015, 12:31 PM   #5
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I'm pretty sure those E18 bolts you removed from the transmission are torque-to-yield fasteners. You'll need to replace them once you remove them.
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      11-16-2015, 01:33 PM   #6
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Great right up! Could you please explain "Important!!! Tie the end of the inlet up with sticky tape to get it over one of the lips." a bit more? Do you have a picture of what you're referring to?
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      11-16-2015, 01:57 PM   #7
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Nice job with the write up!
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      11-16-2015, 03:17 PM   #8
Brule
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp View Post
I'm pretty sure those E18 bolts you removed from the transmission are torque-to-yield fasteners. You'll need to replace them once you remove them.
I just had a new clutch installed with new transmission bolts.
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      11-16-2015, 03:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MileHi335xi View Post
Great right up! Could you please explain "Important!!! Tie the end of the inlet up with sticky tape to get it over one of the lips." a bit more? Do you have a picture of what you're referring to?
Yes,

I tried to put the rear inlet down the firewall but it kept getting stuck on some lip ob the block. Its hot here so the silicone is soft when trying to force it down.
I then thought about making it a point at one end by holding it with tape.

Picture is below with just inlet in the image.
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      11-16-2015, 03:21 PM   #10
Brule
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Sorry didn't upload here it its in my build thread

Last edited by Brule; 12-12-2015 at 10:16 PM..
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