[RCB]

I was reading a "what oil" thread last week and the topic of oil consumption came up. It made me realize that I haven't really seen the RB external PCV system being talked about here at E90post.

I had written a DIY on one of the other forums a few months ago when I first recived my kit. I wanted to share that here along with my review now that I have had the kit for a while.

This is a very well though out kit and I am an avid supporter, especially after a few moths of use. I think that anyone who cares about there N54 motor or there wallet should do this conversion. It will make your next walnut blasting potentially your last and will keep everything in the intake track clean.

When I purchased my car one of the first things I noticed was all the oil leaking from the intercooler to intercooler piping connections. At the time I decided to remove the stock intercooler to rinse it with gas and also added a charge pipe with Tial BOV. Within a few weeks I noticed that my BOV was shooting a fine mist of oil and the pipe connections were wet again. I was amazed at how quickly the intake track was recoated with oil.

At that point I decided it was time to get everything cleaned up again and do a walnut blasting. I cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold thoroughly during the process. My RB kit was on order and slated to ship soon so
I put the car together and drove it for a few days while I waited for it to arrive. When it showed up I installed it immediately to stop everything form getting gummed up with oil again. So the kit is installed, walnut blasting is done, the intake, FMIC and piping are all clean, now comes the true test.....

I make frequent trips between Boston and NYC so my car gets a good deal of highway, city, idling, cruising and spirited pulls. After 1.5 trips and a few miles around town (~400-500 miles total) I checked my catch can for the first time.
I was pretty surprised at what I found, the can was probably 1/4 filled with oil!


That was test number one and the result were looking promising.
Test number two came about a month and roughly 1k miles later when it was time to install my VRFS 7" FMIC and piping. When I pulled out the stock intercooler and piping a found it to be as clean as I left it when I did my walnut blasting service. No more oil around the TIAL bov, in the charge pipe, TB or anywhere else for that matter.

It's now been over 7k miles since the kit was installed and I've dumped a few cups of oil out of the catch can. I love this system
It's nice to know that this kit works as advertised and I never have to worry about my FMIC getting filled with oil or worry about walnut blasting for a very long time. This is a very well thought out system. The quality, fit and finish are top notch. It offers a performance gain, less oil consumption, less smoking, a reliable OEM toyota PCV valve, eliminates oil contaminating the valves and intake track, eliminates oil effecting the A/F ratio in the combustion chamber and helps with cleaner emissions. That is a no brainier and a giant win if you ask me!

I plan on performing one more long term test which will be a periodic inspection of the intake valves. I will be removing the throttle body every 10k miles to taking a look with my borescope. That should eventually give me an idea of what the new walnut blasting S.I. should be.

[RCB]

This installation of the RB External PCV system with Mishimoto catch can was performed on an E61 and outlines the full procedure for the E60/E61 chassis. For all other models it is a matter of gaining accesses to the back of the valve cover to start the conversion. The instructions beyond the cowl removal portion of the job apply to all N54 powered cars. I will label this as Step 1 so for all others Step 2 will be your pickup point.



I am using a BMS OCC on the high side which I retained and also decided to mount my Mishimoto catch can on the bar along side of it. The mounting location and the mounting solution I used may or may not be permanent. Where you mount the can and route the hoses to is up to you and does not affect the rest of the procedure.

Step 1:
Cowl removal-


Remove the cabin air filter housings by releasing the clips and turning the 13mm plastic nuts until the tabs release.
Remove the hood seal, battery cable cover and rubber gutters along the fender edges.
Now release all of the plastic 13mm nuts on the cowl covers as well as the 2 torx screws at the rear of the strut towers then remove the cowl cover.
Now remove the battery cables from the guide, remove the 2 plastic push pins from the strut brace and remove the plastic cable guide.



Step 2:
You will now be able to remove the 4 hex bolts holding the engine cover in place. Remove those bolts and then the engine cover.
*If you are still using all 4 bolts it is recommended that you do not reinstall the 2 rear bolts when the cover goes back on. It will not cause any issue and it makes it much easier to remove later.



Step 3:
Locate and remove the internal PCV valve at the rear of the valve cover.
You will see the PCV valve cap bellow the #6 fuel injector feed line. (I found it easier to work with the injector feed line removed. If you choose to remove the line with a 14mm open ended or box wrench remember to pull the fuel pump fuse before doing so. )
Once the fuel line is removed you can then take a 13mm wrench and remove the PCV cap. From there you will see the internal PCV valve sticking out. It is pressed in with an O-ring keeping it tight. You can grab the end of it and pull it out. If you have trouble try threading a tap or drill bit in to it and grabbing that with vicegrips. Be sure to carefully pull straight back to avoid cracking the plastic valve cover. You can now discard both of those pieces.





Step 4: Install the new RB external PVC fitting.
You will first want to make sure you lubricate both O-rings with fresh engine oil. Now push the valve in to the valve cover as far as you can and begin to thread the fitting in with a 1 3/16” open ended wrench.
It helps to apply pressure to the valve as you begin threading the fitting but be very sure that you have it square considering the fragile plastic threads in the valve cover.





Step 5: Choose the catch can location, mount your can and run the “IN” hose.
Use the supplied aluminum catch can fittings that came with the RB kit and discard the plastic fittings that Mishimoto sticks in the can.
You can now cut the hose to the proper length to run it from the PCV valve to the “IN” side of the catch can. Use the supplied clamps and install the hose.
*Make sure you have enough hose left to go from the catch can to the throttle body. If not, choose a different location or get more hose!


Reinstall the #6 fuel injector feed line.

Step 5: Remove your DCI, Air Box or whatever filter setup you may have unless it’s a turbo side setup 

Step 6: Install the T-Fitting to the throttle body.
To do this you will press the sides of the plastic clip holding the EVAP line to the back side of the throttle body and disconnect the line. You have also have to run your hand down the line towards the back of the manifold till you feel the rubber holder that keeps the line secured to the intake manifold. Pull the rubber holder off of the bracket. You need to do this to allow the line to back up so you have space between the throttle body and the line for the new T-Fitting.
Now you can push the T-Fitting in to the throttle body and lock it in with the supplied E-Clip then reconnect the Evap line to the other end of the T-Fitting.



Step 7: Run the “OUT” hose
Attach the remaining hose to the T-Fitting along with the supplied clamp. Route it up to the catch can and make sure you do so in a way that will not interfere with the Air filters, etc.
Now cut and extra length off of the hose and attach it to the “OUT” side of the catch can with the supplied clamp.





Step 8: Reinstall the air filters, engine cover and cowl parts.

Step 9: Enjoy not having to walnut blast your intake valves for a long time and remember to check your catch can every 500 miles until you have a good understanding of how quickly it needs to be emptied.

**Plugging the ports on the cylinder head is recommended but the kit will function without doing so.

Part 2: Cylinder head PCV vent plug install

To install the provided 10-32 head plugs you will need to remove the valve cover and intake manifold. I'm not going to cover the VC or intake removal process since both are well documented on these forums and in the Bentley manual. I am going to focus on the correct procedure to avoid introducing aluminum shavings to the motor and getting a good thread coil at the correct angle. I will however remind you to pull the fuel pump fuse and make sure the engine is cold before you start this process!
Also well doing this it is a great time to take some maintenance items off the list. A new valve cover gasket and new intake runner seals are recommended. It's also the perfect time to perform the walnut blasting service and replace your spark plugs if needed.

To do this job you will need a good 10-32 tap with a T-handle, shop towels, wheel bearing grease, brake cleaner, blue loctite, a vacuum and compressed or canned air.

Once you have the intake manifold and valve cover off you are going to start buy making sure the valves are closed on the applicable cylinder then stuff a half sheet of shop towel in each intake port. I'm suggesting that you use a half sheet because you only want to fill the individual valve ports up to the divider. The reason being is you want to stay bellow the exit of the PCV vent port in the cylinder head so that you can collect debris in a controlled manor.



Next you will fold up a piece of paper so that it is just wide enough to fit in to the intake port, coat it liberally with wheel bearing grease then slide it in the intake port being sure that it is bellow the PCV vent hole. This is going to catch most of the metal shavings that fall through the port as you run the tap.





Now you will want to stuff some shop towels in the cylinder head along the camshaft bearing ledge to avoid metal shavings or a 10-32 plug falling in to the motor.
*** I ONLY HAVE THE TOWLES REMOVED SO I COULD TAKE CLEAR PICTURES***

Apply a coating of grease around the top of the port on the cylinder head and also to your 10-32 tap. Grease is your best friend right now, it is going to collect a good portion of the metal shavings.

Now you are ready to tap.
The angle is the key to this so you will want to stand along the left fender and look at the cylinder head along the intake ports. You will be able to see the shape of the port running from the valve cover mating surface down towards the intake runner in the casting. This is the angle that you want to make sure you set your tap to. Once you feel comfortable with the angle slowly start to run the tap in the hole a few turns and recheck your approach angle. If everything looks good you can run it in about 1/4-3/8" turning it in a few turns at a time and backing up a turn in between passes.
Don't worry about going down a little too much, as long as you have the plug bellow the top of the head and not all the way to the runner it will serve its purpose.
Now remove the tap slowly and try not to tip it on the last turn coming out since you will only have thread on one side of the hole that you could damage.



Now wipe the grease and metal off the top of the hole, shoot some brake cleaner and air in the hole and pull the paper out. If you did it right your paper should look like the one in the picture above. From there you will vacuum out the port and remove the shop towels.



Next you'll apply a drop of blue loctite to the 10-32 Plug and thread it in to the newly tapped port with a 3/32 hex key. Be very careful not to drop the plug into the cylinder head or you will be sorry.



One is done and you are ready to set yourself up for the next cylinder. Repeat the process until all 6 are installed then put the engine back together and enjoy!

[PourBoi-Jay]

Nice write up and DIY.

I have the RB PCV valve and cap with a BMS Catch Can. I don't pick up a TON of oil in mine, since my walnut blast.

I'll be installing an FMIC soon, so I'll be sure to look out for any excess oil residue while I'm there.

Thanks for the contribution! You should also think about posting this in the DIY section as well

[Boland01]

Great write up, thanks!

Yup, my kit works great too. No brainer indeed.

[ferocity02]

I did this DIY, I didn't use the RB kit, and it works very well. Before the install I was consuming 1 quart every 500-800 miles. Very little smoke, but there was raw oil on the inside of the exhaust tips. After the install, I have zero oil consumption issues. I suspect my valve cover was slightly clogged, so bypassing it has helped to achieve the proper crankcase vacuum. The catch can catches about 1 oz of oil every 1000 miles, roughly.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Great write up and DIY. This will be really helpful to refer to others so it is really appreciated! Glad you are seeing the benefits of this as well

Thanks,
Rob

[roadkillrob]

Just ordered one, had not seen it in other places, so thanks for posting here!

[jjbmuu]

Nice post, plan to install this in the near future.. I also only check my catch can when I change the oil, so I may start checking it sooner, but even then mine is never full.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by roadkillrob

Just ordered one, had not seen it in other places, so thanks for posting here!

This went out today! Thanks for your order and don't forget to chime back in with your feedback if you get the moment

Originally Posted by J.J4ck0wsk1

Nice post, plan to install this in the near future.. I also only check my catch can when I change the oil, so I may start checking it sooner, but even then mine is never full.

The RB External PCV setup (optionally) allows the use of a Low Load side Oil Catch Can as indicated in this write up. As this path is where a lot of the gunk on the intake valves is coming from the optional OCC is recommended of course. BUT on the flip side you will find you have some maintenance of checking and emptying the can.

Many are finding they need to drain it anywhere around 1000 miles, but many factors can influence this number so (as stated in the write up) get a feel for the collection rate by checking a few samples of around 500 miles. Either way its better to catch it than pass it through to the valves!

Shoot over an email to rob.rbturbo@gmail.com if you have any other questions.

[_ink]

Great DIY OP.

[roadkillrob]

Originally Posted by Rob@RBTurbo

This went out today! Thanks for your order and don't forget to chime back in with your feedback if you get the moment

Great service, have tracking, will have it Saturday - catch can was amazon prime for a good deal ($115) and it is coming Saturday also - will post up some pics once I install!

[hellokitty]

How'd you mount the Mishimoto OCC?

[E92er]

Rob, how important is it to plug the ports? How difficult of work is it?

[RCB]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

How'd you mount the Mishimoto OCC?

I used a cushion clamp and mounted it to the strut bar.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by E92er

Rob, how important is it to plug the ports? How difficult of work is it?

It is not required but if you do it would rule out any vulnerability from a degraded valve cover gasket or a clogged or cracked low side valve cover chamber which could lead to problems.

Couple Youtube vids of how to tap the head here (thanks to a community member for making these videos!):

[SilverStreak18]

I too have this kit and it does work great. Highly recommend it.

[gmx]

ah, the reliable and bulletproof 2JZ-GTE PCV Valve.

[wren57]

Great DIY. Thanks for posting!

[expressfish]

Rob, Im not seeing these parts on your website. Can you send me a link ? Thanks

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Originally Posted by expressfish

Rob, Im not seeing these parts on your website. Can you send me a link ? Thanks

We have yet to add this to our website (it is quite out of date). Please email directly rob.rbturbo@gmail.com with any questions you may have.

Thanks,
Rob

[RCB]

Here are some photos of how I've mounted the catch can in an E92 using a 1/2" aluminum line clamp. Allstar performance 18303

I keep packs of these in house for running AN fuel lines so the part number I have as a reference for you guys is for a 10 pack. I'm not sure if you can buy just one.