[seccsc]

Hello, I will be executing a valve body rebuild this coming weekend. Does anybody have any lessons learned from the process? Thanks.

UPDATE: DIY is post #12 below.

[kkasson]

There's a pretty good 3-part video on YouTube of a rebuild of the ZF 5HP19 from the E46. It won't be exactly the same for the newer transmission, but it should be a similar process...

EDIT: Also just found this video for the 6HP19:

[seccsc]

Originally Posted by kkasson

There's a pretty good 3-part video on YouTube of a rebuild of the ZF 5HP19 from the E46. It won't be exactly the same for the newer transmission, but it should be a similar process...

EDIT: Also just found this video for the 6HP19:

Agree and thank you. This will be one of many items I will be using for this diy.

[sluggo]

How did your rebuild go. Did you get to it?

[ferocity02]

I rebuilt mine, all new solenoids, Sonnax Zip Kit, new separator plates, etc. My trans shifts pretty clumsily and inconsistently and was hoping this would help. And it didn't really change anything.

Make sure to reset transmission adaptations with INPA after. It will take some time to relearn.

Take LOTS of pictures as you're going so to remember where the check balls go and the proper orientation of the valves.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by kkasson

There's a pretty good 3-part video on YouTube of a rebuild of the ZF 5HP19 from the E46. It won't be exactly the same for the newer transmission, but it should be a similar process...

EDIT: Also just found this video for the 6HP19:

Great video, thanks for sharing!

[seccsc]

Originally Posted by sluggo

How did your rebuild go. Did you get to it?

I did finish the rebuild and it went well. Hopefully here in the next few weeks, I can write up steps I used and upload all of the pictures.

[sluggo]

Originally Posted by seccsc

I did finish the rebuild and it went well. Hopefully here in the next few weeks, I can write up steps I used and upload all of the pictures.

Awesome. Did you get the results you hoped for? I'm considering doing only a fluid /filter change, but replacing the rubber seals under the valve body, as a first step to see if that fixes my funky shifts. I'm not looking forward to opening that valve body.

[sluggo]

Originally Posted by ferocity02

I rebuilt mine, all new solenoids, Sonnax Zip Kit, new separator plates, etc. My trans shifts pretty clumsily and inconsistently and was hoping this would help. And it didn't really change anything..

That sucks, man. I've been there with other car projects. Ton of work w/no payoff=gutted. any ideas about what else it could be?

[ferocity02]

Originally Posted by sluggo

That sucks, man. I've been there with other car projects. Ton of work w/no payoff=gutted. any ideas about what else it could be?

Apparently the bushings in these transmissions wear out. There is one in particular that doubles as a seal. As it wears down it starts to leak more and more, which reduces pressure to the clutch(es). I'm not sure what the exact symptoms are, or if it's even my issue, but it's a known weakness/flaw.

While rebuild the valvebody I was really hoping to find something wrong or broken, but no such luck. Even the rectangular seal that seals the VB to the case was in perfect condition at 90k miles.

[seccsc]

Originally Posted by sluggo

Awesome. Did you get the results you hoped for? I'm considering doing only a fluid /filter change, but replacing the rubber seals under the valve body, as a first step to see if that fixes my funky shifts. I'm not looking forward to opening that valve body.

I did get the results I hoped for. The car had an inconsistent weird RPM flutter in 3/4gear at 1500 RPM and it did not matter if the car was warmed up. I did not have any error codes.
This rebuild cleared up the inconsistent RPM flutter and the gear shifts are more crisp. But don't expect this rebuild to change the transmission's original personality.
Just as FYI, my car is a September 2006 build with 110k miles on it.

[seccsc]

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for any damage to personal property or injury sustained from attempting the following. Remember, stay safe and if you have any hesitations in performing this, contact your local mechanic.
Also, I did not write all of this procedure. I used all of the references to produce my own. SO DONT GIG ME ON SPELLING AND GRAMMER. I did not have a lot of time. For perspective, parts for the overhaul and transmission refill was ~$1000 plus your time(12 hours).


Background

I am the original owner of a 2007 (09/06 build) E90 335i with the 6 speed automatic steptronic transmission with 110K miles. Every two years I have drained and refilled my transmission. The car had an inconsistent (it did not occur all of the time) weird RPM flutter in 3/4gear at 1500 RPM and it did not matter if the car was warmed up. I did not have any error codes.
This rebuild cleared up the inconsistent RPM flutter and the gear shifts are more crisp. But don't expect this rebuild to change the transmission's original personality.
I had previously attempted resetting the Adaptive Transmission Control which helped, but didn't completely fix the problem.


References:
https://sayyarti.wordpress.com/2015/...ission-issues/

Sonnax valve body reference: https://s3.amazonaws.com/sonnax-dev/...AutoChoice.pdf

ZF procedure for mechatronic replacement:
http://www.zftranspart.com/images/custom/mecha.pdf


Reference procedure for valve body removal and installation: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=733273

Another valve body/solenoid procedure:
http://5series.net/forums/diy-do-you...thread-137584/

Oil level procedure:
http://www.thectsc.com/bmw-6hp19-6hp...vel-procedures

Reference documents:
http://www.B I m m e r b o o s t.com/showthread.php?35150-ZF-6HP21-Reference-Documents

Lift and tranny prep:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ansmission+oil

Transmission adaptation relearn procedure:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/posts/h...on-adaptations


Parts
-Sonnax zip kit ZF6-GEN2-ZIP:
http://www.sonnax.com/parts/3053-zip-kit

-Solenoids and Foam kit:
http://www.thectsc.com/products/sole...ft-38-115.html
http://www.thectsc.com/products/prot...ds-40-115.html

-Nine Liters(Yes I put back in 9 liters) of Transmission oil Shell M-1375.4 (OEM) (Pentosin ATF1):
https://www.amazon.com/Pentosin-1058...=pentosin+atf1


-Mechatronic Seal Adapter late 6HP21
BMW part number : 24347588724
Mechatronic sealing sleeve: 24347588725
4 rubber seals BMW Part Numbers:
24107536339 x 2
24107536340
24107536341
The transmission valve pan: BMW part #24152333907

Mechatronic sleeve: BMW part # 24347588725

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...TRAUTO_pg3.htm

-Separator plate: There are two plates listed for the ZF6HP21 transmission.
Original plate 1068-327-210 = Sonnax 95740-063 (My car)
Or
1068-327-224 = Sonnax 95740-065 (Im assuming LCI??)

http://www.oregonperformancetransmis...=SNX-95740-063

-Anti-Static ESD band:
https://www.amazon.com/Static-Wrist-.../dp/B00530GDHG

-Vacuum pump for testing the valve body:
https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Vacuum-Br.../dp/B00KBA27KA

Tools

Low Profile Ramps x 2
Jack Stands x 2
Floor Jack
Spirit Leveler
3/8" Ratchet
8mm Hex Socket
13mm Wrench
T27 Torx Head
T40 Torx Head
5/16" Allen Key
3/8" Allen Key
Bucket/Catch Pan
Fluid Transfer Pump
ESD grounding strap
Brake bleeding hand pump


1.) Okay the first step is to Jack the card up on the jack stands. Make sure is safe and secure. Reset transmission adaptations before disconnecting the battery.

2.) Remove the underbody cover, heat shield, and small supports that block a clean view of the transmission pan.

3.) Drain the transmission fluid. At the same time remove the fill plug, its torqued on tight, so use a wrench or a rubber mallet to break it loose, removing this part is very difficult.

4.) Once its stopped draining, remove the oil pan bolts (24) leave the 4 corners on for last. Reminder, there is still 1 Liter of fluid in there. discard it (make sure the oil tub still has an o-ring on it, if not remove it from the mechatronic (valve body))

5.Locate the electronic connector, - Mechatronic connector, rear right corner, unplug the connector - you can do it without removing any of the support parts. Push aside back there.

6. Back to the transmission, pull the white tab down from the mechatronic, this releases the mechatronic connector sleeve, pull it out without twisting (back right outside of transmission) keep it around for later. Not the orientation tab inside of it.

7.) Warning use a ESD (Electico-static discharge) grounding strap while handling the TCM.
Remove the 10 larger bolts on the mechatronic valve body. The 10 bolts have large heads and are T40 bolts. A 11mm socket will not fit around them. Be careful. I would suggest leaving two bolts installed and have assistance while removing those last fasteners with someone supporting the mechatronic. Warning - Mechatronic is about 30 pounds, covered in oil, and as you loosen the bolts oil comes out fast. The part is very fragile, and you dont want to scratch any of the mounting surfaces. Remove and put aside mechatronic.

8.) Let transmission continue to drain oil. If you wish, remove the valve body seals.


Using the Sonnax Zip Kit instuctions.


9. Valve Body Disassembly: Warning use a ESD (Electico-static discharge) grounding strap while handling the TCM.
a. Remove seven bolts to remove TCM from valve body. Be careful. After the bolts are out push the pins and it will come out. Set aside. Make sure no oil enters the connector. Note sliding guide for shifter valve prior to removing.
b. Remove TCM by carefully prying upwards on the two dowels.
c. Remove the fasteners (Torx T27)for the solenoid hold down plate.
d. Remove the solenoids by hand pulling straight out.
e. Pry valve body halves from separator plate where indicated. Leave the upper valve body section DOWN due to the small ball check valves. Make yourself take a lot of pictures. Sonnax Zip kit ball locations in the upper valve body did not match my valve body. See my pictures!

10. Install the Sonnax zip kit ZF6-GEN2-ZIP and vacuum test.
See ZF6-GEN2-ZIP instructions. I used the hand brake vacuum pump and a piece of plexi glass, with a small hole, to test all areas. Only pull one spring loaded valve at a time not to mix up parts.
Execute the Sonnax zip kit instructions: http://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net...f?v=1479834410
Note: When resembling the two halves of the valve body, the torque is 6NM.

14. Replace the solenoids... push to install. Note previous orientation, and install the same way. Install the fasteners (Torx T27)for the solenoid hold down plate torqued to 6 NM. The piece of foam is installed in between the solenoid and the body.


15. Install the TCM with the 6 fasteners. Take time to use the old mechatronic sleeve and see how it slips into place. Do not lock it in, but feel how it installs. Also make sure sliding tab attached to the mechatronic in its appropriate notch- this is critical, otherwise it will not come out of part.

16. Before reinstalling the mechatronic, replace all of the casing to valve body seals. I used needle nose plyers to remove.

WARNING NOTE: You may want to test fit the NEW mechatronic sleeve first on the bench. I had problems of getting the mechatronic release tab to lock back in place and I had to remove the mechatronic and troubleshoot. This will also allow you to mark 6 O'Clock position for install.

17. Carefully install the mechatronic into the transmission. Install the screws that are toward the center of the mechatronic, and slowly install all the screws and torque to 8 NM. Make sure the sliding notch is lined up with the notch that is in the transmission, this is critical.

18. Install the mechatronic sleeve. Once you feel that it is in push firmly- very hard and push the white tab up, it should move up easily. Attach the connector back to the transmission.

19. Install the oil pan in a cross pattern. See references for the torque pattern. Torqued to 10NM. Verify drain plug is also torqued to spec.

20. Filling procedure. Using the transfer pump (I used my Motive Power Brake Bleeder reservoir to fill and it worked great), transfer at first 4 to 4.5 liters of oil into the transmission (until it leaks out of the fill hole). Start car and while running (in park (no wheels contacting anything!!)). NOTE: My rear wheels were free so I could check direction. Continue to put the transmission in Drive, Reverse, Neutral, and back in to Park while filling the transmission. You fill the car up with 8 L of oil or more. Use the transmission fill reference.

21. Let car cool, clean around pan and after an hour verify that there are no leaks. Attach trim that was removed and lower car.

22. Transmission re-adaptation: Follow the procedure for the mechatronic to relearn. https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/posts/h...on-adaptations

[sluggo]

Well done is an extreme understatement. This ROCKS!!!
I'll be reading this several times. Thank you.

[seccsc]

Originally Posted by sluggo

Well done is an extreme understatement. This ROCKS!!!
I'll be reading this several times. Thank you.

I updated the reference documents since the forum would not display the website and when testing out the new mechatronic sleeve for marking 6 O'Clock position. Also, I updated the parts total and execution time at the very beginning. I hope this helps you!

[GoRomeo]

Great job. Thank you for sharing!!

So is it fixed or you still have issues?

[seccsc]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Great job. Thank you for sharing!!

So is it fixed or you still have issues?

Thank you. Yes, this overhaul resolved my transmission issues.

[335stoner]

good write up!!

Like how you used an ESD strap for the extra electronic protection!!!

[seccsc]

Originally Posted by 335stoner

good write up!!

Like how you used an ESD strap for the extra electronic protection!!!

Thank you. I hope this helps everyone as much as this forum has helped me in the past.

[Modmike]

Hope someone sees this thread as i pulled a dumb move. I ama installing a sonnax zip kit and I took off all the solenoid side valves. I figured I had a diagram so no harm no foul.

Unfortunately springs that look identical on the diagram are ever so slightly different and I know thats an issue.

Anyone have an identification guide or instructions on how to identify which one goes where?

[seccsc]

Originally Posted by Modmike

Hope someone sees this thread as i pulled a dumb move. I ama installing a sonnax zip kit and I took off all the solenoid side valves. I figured I had a diagram so no harm no foul.

Unfortunately springs that look identical on the diagram are ever so slightly different and I know thats an issue.

Anyone have an identification guide or instructions on how to identify which one goes where?

Call the Sonnax technical assistance line. They are very helpful.
Otherwise post the pictures of the springs and I can try to help you identify where each spring goes.

[Modmike]

Thanks for the answer but I figured it out.

[seccsc]

Originally Posted by Modmike

Thanks for the answer but I figured it out.

Awesome! I updated the DIY to reflect removing each valve section one at a time.