[ferocity02]

Anyone have a detailed DIY for this? I saw this video on youtube of a guy doing the procedure, but I was hoping for a little more detail. And he's a little hard to understand.

Do you just open the bleeder, perform the procedure in INPA, and then close the bleeder when done?

Is a 2nd person needed to keep the reservoir full, or will the procedure not let it empty?

Do you need to do a normal bleed afterwards? I'm guessing not.

I just changed my pads and flushed the fluid and my pedal is much softer than before. It takes 50-100% more travel to get the same braking power. It's not the pads because I replaced them with the same kind. And I never let the reservoir go empty.

[Gennosuke]

Originally Posted by ferocity02

Anyone have a detailed DIY for this? I saw this video on youtube of a guy doing the procedure, but I was hoping for a little more detail. And he's a little hard to understand.

Do you just open the bleeder, perform the procedure in INPA, and then close the bleeder when done?

Is a 2nd person needed to keep the reservoir full, or will the procedure not let it empty?

Do you need to do a normal bleed afterwards? I'm guessing not.

I just changed my pads and flushed the fluid and my pedal is much softer than before. It takes 50-100% more travel to get the same braking power. It's not the pads because I replaced them with the same kind. And I never let the reservoir go empty.

I used that video when I bled my brake system and I found it very very helpful.

I don't have a detailed diy but I pretty much followed that video step by step.

The way I did mine was basically:

1. Make sure the brake reservoir is full.

2. Have your catch bottle and bleeder screw wrench ready and connected to the caliper your bleeding.

3. In INPA active your DSC module.

4. Under that menu I chose the 1st caliper I wanted to work on which is..."reworked the DSC Rear Right" (19:00 mark in that video)

INPA will then tell you to open the bleeder screw...go to the caliper and open the bleeder screw...go back in the car...then click OK in INPA.

Then it will make you follow a series of holding the brake pedal and releasing it...until it's done and it will then tell you to close the bleeder screw...go outside and close the screw....go back in the car and click ok in INPA. Check your reservoir add fluid to make sure it's full.

Do the same steps for the next caliper.

I did it in this order...furthest to the master cylinder. RR...RL...FR...FL

You don't need another person...just make sure your reservoir is full each time before you work on the next caliper...I did mine 2x for each caliper before I moved onto the next one(because I have a BBK with 2 bleeder screws in each caliper.)

You also don't have to bleed it again the normal way after you done it in INPA...I guess you can bleed it again the normal way or again in INPA if you really want to make sure you got all the air out of the system.

The person that created that video is a member here. I contacted him before and he was very helpful and willing to answer my question.

[ferocity02]

Originally Posted by Gennosuke

I used that video when I bled my brake system and I found it very very helpful.

I don't have a detailed diy but I pretty much followed that video step by step.

Great thanks for the tips!

Why did you follow this process?
Did you notice an improvement after?

[Gennosuke]

Originally Posted by ferocity02

Great thanks for the tips!

Why did you follow this process?
Did you notice an improvement after?

I followed this method because when I installed my BBK the brake pedal felt a bit soft even after doing the bed in procedure.

I originally bled the system using a motive power bleeder. And it's also possible I might of got some air in the lines when installed the BBK because after I did the INPA method my brakes were incredibly firm.

[ferocity02]

Originally Posted by Gennosuke

I followed this method because when I installed my BBK the brake pedal felt a bit soft even after doing the bed in procedure.

I originally bled the system using a motive power bleeder. And it's also possible I might of got some air in the lines when installed the BBK because after I did the INPA method my brakes were incredibly firm.

Good info. There's been several cases where using the Motiv bleeder has resulted in softer brakes.

I'll give the INPA method a try. I wonder if that's how the dealers to their brake bleed/flushes.

[ferocity02]

So I did the bleed/flush with INPA and the brakes are the same. No idea where to go from here. Wondering if I should try again.

FYI, despite salready flushing the system the "normal way", the INPA bleed will get a lot of nasty fluid out. Definitely use INPA if you want to flush the entire system.

[Gennosuke]

Originally Posted by ferocity02

So I did the bleed/flush with INPA and the brakes are the same. No idea where to go from here. Wondering if I should try again.

FYI, despite salready flushing the system the "normal way", the INPA bleed will get a lot of nasty fluid out. Definitely use INPA if you want to flush the entire system.

Sorry to hear that it feels the same way. I would at least try to re-bleed again using INPA...maybe there's still some air in the system.

If you can't figure it out try to find a reliable Indy shop to help it get sorted out for u.

Hopefully you get it fixed...Good luck man.

[BB_cuda]

I used motive bleeder only and pedal feels exactly same as before (good hard pedal). One thing to make sure of is to prime the tube leading to the master cylinder (MC) as much as possible before screwing lid onto the MC. I couldn't get it 100% full but did notice the air bubble didn't move. The fluid must have flowed past the bubble in the tube between bleeder and MC. I pushed through quite a bit of fluid and never saw the fluid change color from dark to light. I had fluid changed about 25 months ago and car only driven 17,000 miles in that time. I didn't use fancy brake fluid and just got DOT4. I was pretty generous in how much was collected at each rotor especially the rear 2 to assure full length of line purge.

More about that bubble. The bleeder has a pretty big tube diameter. This tube was sort of in an upside down U shape with bleeder sitting on top my engine cover. Other end of course is at MC. The bubble was at top of the inverted U. It stayed right there. I had filled the MC very full. When I bled the right rear, I saw bubbles for a little while. I'm guessing the small volume of air on top of MC prior to screwing bleeder cap must have been pushed through. I kept bleeding this corner for a long while to assure myself that all air was pushed through. I didn't see this at the other 3 corners. TBH, I was a little baffled as to how the bleeder reservoir's level went down as I bled but the bubble in the tube never moved. This is why I stated the fluid went under the bubble. I kept the reservoir pressure at 15 psi or higher.

[ferocity02]

I did the INPA bleed again, twice per wheel, using new BWM OEM fluid, and it is firmer than before, but not as firm as when this all started. I'm not going to mess with it anymore for fear of making things worse.

[titium]

Originally Posted by ferocity02

I did the INPA bleed again, twice per wheel, using new BWM OEM fluid, and it is firmer than before, but not as firm as when this all started. I'm not going to mess with it anymore for fear of making things worse.

does your pedal sink if you hold it down firmly?

recently boiled my fluid on track and I'm trying to get all the air out. huge pita.

[techwhiz]

Not a big PITA.
My system was completely dry after doing the Performance Brakes.
I used pressure bleeder.
I then gently tapped the ABS distribution block with the handle of a mallet.
I also smacked the calipers with a rubber mallet to dislodge bubbles (Brembo suggests this in their bleeding instructions).
Did that two cycles after the initial bleed.
No bubbles and no soft pedal.

[titium]

Originally Posted by techwhiz

Not a big PITA.
My system was completely dry after doing the Performance Brakes.
I used pressure bleeder.
I then gently tapped the ABS distribution block with the handle of a mallet.
I also smacked the calipers with a rubber mallet to dislodge bubbles (Brembo suggests this in their bleeding instructions).
Did that two cycles after the initial bleed.
No bubbles and no soft pedal.

sweet thanks!

hopefully I'll just need one more cycle with the mallet then. I've done pressure bleed then inpa bleed so far.

[houtan]

About to do my brake bleed via inpa. In the video, he has a check valve on his drain tube connected to the bleeder valve. Does anyone know if the check valve is required? Or can I just hook up my drain tube without a check valve and put it in my drain bottle with a little fluid at the bottom?

[Yangorang]

Originally Posted by techwhiz

Not a big PITA.
My system was completely dry after doing the Performance Brakes.
I used pressure bleeder.
I then gently tapped the ABS distribution block with the handle of a mallet.
I also smacked the calipers with a rubber mallet to dislodge bubbles (Brembo suggests this in their bleeding instructions).
Did that two cycles after the initial bleed.
No bubbles and no soft pedal.

Where is this ABS distribution block? I have a pressure bleeder too and will probably follow this approach with my next bleed rather than using INPA. Just seems like a little less work than getting in and out of the car all the time.

[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by Yangorang

Where is this ABS distribution block? I have a pressure bleeder too and will probably follow this approach with my next bleed rather than using INPA. Just seems like a little less work than getting in and out of the car all the time.

It's right next to the master cylinder. Silver metal block with 4 brake lines going into it.

[juld0zer]

Further to Gennosuke's response here are some more pointers, gleaned from the ISTA instructions:

- Pressure bleed the entire system first
- Use a pressure bleeder for the INPA/ABS bleed
- Open the desired nipple and ensure fluid is flowing through it, then operate the valve in INPA, then do five full pedal strokes (rears will only go halfway) with one second pause at the end of travel and before you depress it again.
- Dont let the pedal shoot up by itself. Use your foot to hold it back so it rises slowly.
- Dont use a one man bleeder kit/check valve on the drain hose. Just use clear aquarium hose.

The bubble in the hose shouldnt be an issue. There is a pocket of air above the fluid in the reservoir at all times and unless you push out all the fluid in the reservoir, it shouldnt introduce air using a pressure bleeder

[totti84]

Can this DSC bleeding procedure be activated with Rheingold? Or only INPA? Thanks

[titium]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

Further to Gennosuke's response here are some more pointers, gleaned from the ISTA instructions:

- Pressure bleed the entire system first
- Use a pressure bleeder for the INPA/ABS bleed
- Open the desired nipple and ensure fluid is flowing through it, then operate the valve in INPA, then do five full pedal strokes (rears will only go halfway) with one second pause at the end of travel and before you depress it again.
- Dont let the pedal shoot up by itself. Use your foot to hold it back so it rises slowly.
- Dont use a one man bleeder kit/check valve on the drain hose. Just use clear aquarium hose.

The bubble in the hose shouldnt be an issue. There is a pocket of air above the fluid in the reservoir at all times and unless you push out all the fluid in the reservoir, it shouldnt introduce air using a pressure bleeder

Is it worthwhile doing the 5 pedal strokes during a normal pressure bleed routine without using inpa?

[juld0zer]

Rheingold is pretty much ISTA, so yes it is there. It even gives you the instructions.

Doesn't hurt to do five strokes of the pedal after each caliper is flushed.

[bjf66]

Thanks for all the great instructional advice above.

I'm just trying to clarify, I want to replace my OEM brake fluid with a different type and want to 100% flush it out.

So does the INPA method work to flush the entire system? Or does it not work like that?

Would I start off with bleeding the calipers first using INPA (in order from RR/RL/FR/FL) with the old fluid until the master cylinder reservoir becomes low. I hear some people use a turkey baster or something to remove the fluid from the brake fluid reservoir first, what is the correct way?

Then I add in my new fluid to the master cylinder reservoir?

Then bleed again using INPA? So would this be a 100% fluid flush and completely get rid of the old fluids and air in the system?

[titium]

Originally Posted by Karura

Thanks for all the great instructional advice above.

I'm just trying to clarify, I want to replace my OEM brake fluid with a different type and want to 100% flush it out.

So does the INPA method work to flush the entire system? Or does it not work like that?

Would I start off with bleeding the calipers first using INPA (in order from RR/RL/FR/FL) with the old fluid until the master cylinder reservoir becomes low. I hear some people use a turkey baster or something to remove the fluid from the brake fluid reservoir first, what is the correct way?

Then I add in my new fluid to the master cylinder reservoir?

Then bleed again using INPA? So would this be a 100% fluid flush and completely get rid of the old fluids and air in the system?

pressure bleeder is your best bet. (required if you're manual trans).

i found pressure bleed + old fashioned 2 man bleed the best for getting air out of the system. shouldn't need to dsc bleed unless you changed the master cylinder or dsc unit.

[bjf66]

Would there be any issues with only using INPA to bleed/flush brake fluids every time? I'm asking because that's how they do it at the dealership, right?

I'm wondering if that would damage the DSC unit or cause it to require a calibration?

I already have a Motive power bleeder, but if I want to do a 100% fluid change (the new fluid is not compatible with older fluid), then it does make sense to use the DSC/INPA method right? Could use some guidance.

Edit:

So to clarify, this is my understanding, the point of the INPA/DSC pump method is NOT to get the old fluid out (since any pressure bleeder will run fluids through the DSC anyway) but to actually activate the DSC pump to get rid of air to firm up the brake pedal? Please let me know if my understanding is correct.