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      10-09-2017, 01:26 PM   #1
Xerix
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335D Electrical Problems?

Hey Everyone,

So I recently had a bunch of codes that would not clear even after being reset. But I also have an old problem with my stereo.

Stereo speakers have a quiet static hissing sound to them. I have to turn up the volume to drown it out and randomly goes away while driving for no apparent reason. Sometimes, it hisses the entire drive and starts anytime the car wakes up when its warm outside. This doesn't usually happen in the winter if I recall.

Error Codes:
4873: EGR Cooler Plausibility (Determined to be Broken Return Spring) Problem occurred a couple years ago.
3EC0: DDE: Camshaft sensor, signal
46F9: DDE: Reducing Agent Active Tank Temperature Sensor, signal

Then several months later (more recently):
498E: DDE: Oil-level sensor

So thinking that the sensors had failed, I was going to change them all this weekend. I changed the oil level sensor along with the oil and did my normal maintenance and reset my computer to ensure the oil level sensor was working correctly. I did not replace any other sensors yet.

Then I saw the following codes:
4873: EGR Cooler Plausibility (Expected as I didn't fix the spring yet)
49A5: LIN bus: Communications fault
4A74: LIN, message: preheating control unit: Missing
4A79: LIN, message: preheating control unit: Missing

So codes 3EC0 and 46F9 have mysteriously fixed themselves and now my Glow Plug Module looks to be dead. WTF? However, when my car wakes up, I still hear that high pitch squeal I have always heard when the glow plugs warm up, and nothing sounds any different.

Is it plausible that the Glow Plug module is causing my problems? or perhaps a deeper problem else where in the car? A part of me wants to think that I have an electrical short somewhere causing my problems as well.

The glow plug module itself is not too bad to replace, but I don't want to do it if theres nothing wrong with it.

What do you think?
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      10-09-2017, 01:37 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xerix View Post
Hey Everyone,

So I recently had a bunch of codes that would not clear even after being reset. But I also have an old problem with my stereo.

Stereo speakers have a quiet static hissing sound to them. I have to turn up the volume to drown it out and randomly goes away while driving for no apparent reason. Sometimes, it hisses the entire drive and starts anytime the car wakes up when its warm outside. This doesn't usually happen in the winter if I recall.

Error Codes:
4873: EGR Cooler Plausibility (Determined to be Broken Return Spring) Problem occurred a couple years ago.
3EC0: DDE: Camshaft sensor, signal
46F9: DDE: Reducing Agent Active Tank Temperature Sensor, signal

Then several months later (more recently):
498E: DDE: Oil-level sensor

So thinking that the sensors had failed, I was going to change them all this weekend. I changed the oil level sensor along with the oil and did my normal maintenance and reset my computer to ensure the oil level sensor was working correctly. I did not replace any other sensors yet.

Then I saw the following codes:
4873: EGR Cooler Plausibility (Expected as I didn't fix the spring yet)
49A5: LIN bus: Communications fault
4A74: LIN, message: preheating control unit: Missing
4A79: LIN, message: preheating control unit: Missing

So codes 3EC0 and 46F9 have mysteriously fixed themselves and now my Glow Plug Module looks to be dead. WTF? However, when my car wakes up, I still hear that high pitch squeal I have always heard when the glow plugs warm up, and nothing sounds any different.

Is it plausible that the Glow Plug module is causing my problems? or perhaps a deeper problem else where in the car? A part of me wants to think that I have an electrical short somewhere causing my problems as well.

The glow plug module itself is not too bad to replace, but I don't want to do it if theres nothing wrong with it.

What do you think?
I had those same LIN faults. I replaced my glow plug controller and all 6 plugs and those codes went away. The hissing sound I have no idea. Glow plug module is a common failure. May as well go ahead and fix it. Also check your coolant temps. They should be close to 195F. If they aren't your thermostat is bad, which is another common failure. Failed thermostats cause glow plugs and modules to fail sooner since they are working overtime.
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      10-09-2017, 03:43 PM   #3
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For my car, the LIN fault codes are from the Glow Plug Controller. I replaced the glow plug controller but not the glow plug. The 6 glow plugs and the thermostat was fine.

I do not believe in the theory that the glow plug are failing because the thermostat is defective. The glow plug controller is just failing because it is not a reliable design.

I can say the same about the EGR return spring, the SCR tank, the harmonic balancer pulley, SCR metering valve, injectors, rear LED tail light, FRM module, Throttle actuator, red boost hose, ... etc.
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      10-12-2017, 01:47 PM   #4
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Design Flaws

Quote:
Originally Posted by montr View Post
I can say the same about the EGR return spring, the SCR tank, the harmonic balancer pulley, SCR metering valve, injectors, rear LED tail light, FRM module, Throttle actuator, red boost hose, ... etc.
After 122k miles my crank damper, GP controller, tail lights, FRM and all I/C piping (including the red one on the hot side) are all doing just fine. The crank damper is a wear item. Injectors are wear items that get prematurely damaged by CBU due to poor emissions control design. I believe the emissions controls are the only things on the car with any real design flaws.

Emissions control requirements are mandated by government. BMW simply made a failed attempt to comply with it, in this particular case. They would never dream of designing that nonsense of their own accord.
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      10-12-2017, 09:28 PM   #5
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Oh the hissing sound. I had something similar, but my car was still under warranty. It only showed up after the car baked in the sun. Dealer never identified the cause(obviously) but they replaced the audio unit and all was better. Wish I could provide a better diy. Mine also would sometimes stop playing anything out of one or 2 channels. Perhaps yours isn't that bad or is something simple, just thought I would share.
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      10-13-2017, 07:03 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NadirPoint View Post
After 122k miles my crank damper, GP controller, tail lights, FRM and all I/C piping (including the red one on the hot side) are all doing just fine. The crank damper is a wear item. Injectors are wear items that get prematurely damaged by CBU due to poor emissions control design. I believe the emissions controls are the only things on the car with any real design flaws.

Emissions control requirements are mandated by government. BMW simply made a failed attempt to comply with it, in this particular case. They would never dream of designing that nonsense of their own accord.
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      10-19-2017, 01:22 PM   #7
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So last morning we had a fairly cool start at 6 degrees Celsius. The engine was quite rough and the RPM's were +/- 50 more than the usual. Startup took maybe an extra rotation but was still quick. So looks like I will be replacing the module.

As for the stereo, I guess I'll have to take it out and have a look at it. My cd player I don't think has ever worked. I tried it once after my warranty expired and it wouldn't give the CD back. Here's hoping its a loose capacitor or solder joint.
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      10-19-2017, 02:10 PM   #8
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I will be making a video on how to change the glow plug module with the intake on in 10 minutes or less... just waiting for it to come in the mail. I still have a week more to wait....
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      10-19-2017, 11:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335stoner View Post
I will be making a video on how to change the glow plug module with the intake on in 10 minutes or less... just waiting for it to come in the mail. I still have a week more to wait....
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      10-27-2017, 08:11 AM   #10
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I think my module will come in today or tomorrow
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      10-30-2017, 08:29 AM   #11
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Definitely check your running temps, I bet your Tstat is running cold which has fried your glow plug controller. I had those same LIN bus faults and I only replaced the controller, which fixed the issue.

My radio had a hissing noise as well, if you search within the Radio forum on E90post, there is a thread regarding the TSB for the issue. Basically you have to replace the radio. I found one at a local wrecker and haven't heard the noise since.

Many random electrical faults that clear themselves can be caused by low battery performance. If you have the original battery, I would look at replacing that as well. The poor condition of the battery was probably exacerbated by the glow plugs being on all the time, which was actually caused by the Tstat.

You really have to stay on top of maintenance with these cars and look at doing the deletes if you don't want to deal with the expensive emissions issues.
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      11-01-2017, 10:53 PM   #12
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So I got my glow plug module yesterday and just changed it out.

I was able to replace it without removing the air intake and did the following:
Disconnected negative battery lead.
Detach the Oil Level stick from the air intake so it can move around a bit.
Unclipped the fuel line (semi opaque yellowish tubing) from a plastic retainer in front of the glow plug module so it could move around a little.
Unclipped the positive electrical line from the alternator and the starter so I could move it around an extra inch. This is located under the oil filter housing.
When getting your hand around the big connector, I used my right hand index finger for the rear tab, and the knuckle of my thumb to compress the tabs. The angle of my hand was very awkward and was difficult to compress the tabs.
I used some tape in my socket to keep the nuts from falling out when I removed them from the Preheating Module (Glow Plug Module).
I pulled the module away from the block with the power connector still attached. I then used a 90 degree pick to get the front and back push tabs pried down so the connector would come off.
The module comes out by moving it towards the back of the engine and behind the oil stick.

The hardest part was getting the connectors off, but now that I know how to do it, it shouldn't take longer than 30 minutes. But it took me about 3 hours screwing around with this.

All that being said, Glow Plug 6 is dead :-( I half expected something like this would happen. So I might as well replace all 6. However, I'll tackle this job next weekend. If anyone knows where I can get any glow plugs for a good price in Toronto, then please let me know.

Lastly, I know it would have been easier to just remove the air intake, but I didn't want to replace the gaskets. In any case, when I take it off next, I will replace them.

Hope this info helps some people.
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      11-01-2017, 11:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xerix View Post
ould have been easier to just remove the air intake, but I didn't want to replace the gaskets. In any case, when I take it off next, I will replace them.
You don't really have to replace the gaskets anyways. I didn't when I replaced my module and plugs.
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      11-02-2017, 07:09 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xerix View Post
So I got my glow plug module yesterday and just changed it out.
...

Hope this info helps some people.
Thanks for the description and tips. I haven't had to do this yet, so I do appreciate you sharing your experience.
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      11-09-2017, 08:10 AM   #15
Xerix
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So I replaced all my glow plugs last night and reset all codes. Everything seems to be working.

One thing I screwed up on was that one of the 10mm bolts on the air intake broke on me on cylinder 4 intake (Part #: 11612246948). Seems my torque wrench is not working to spec :-(. I probably turned it an extra full rotation when I heard it crack. I didn't remove anything because the bolt wont come off the Air Intake. So looks like I'll try to replace it in the spring when I replace the seals and blank off my swirl flaps.

Beyond that, all else looks good.

Forgot to mention, I picked up the Glow Plugs for $32.23 each.

Last edited by Xerix; 11-09-2017 at 08:13 AM.. Reason: Added Glow Plug Cost
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      11-09-2017, 08:56 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xerix View Post
So I replaced all my glow plugs last night and reset all codes. Everything seems to be working.

One thing I screwed up on was that one of the 10mm bolts on the air intake broke on me on cylinder 4 intake (Part #: 11612246948). Seems my torque wrench is not working to spec :-(. I probably turned it an extra full rotation when I heard it crack. I didn't remove anything because the bolt wont come off the Air Intake. So looks like I'll try to replace it in the spring when I replace the seals and blank off my swirl flaps.

Beyond that, all else looks good.

Forgot to mention, I picked up the Glow Plugs for $32.23 each.

if one of the intake bolts broke you might want to fix that soon.. (?!?!) those bolts are holding back pressure and not having that one will eventually cause the seal to fail.
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      06-01-2018, 11:35 PM   #17
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I replaced the bolt I broke on the air intake. It was surprisingly simple to replace by pushing it out from the back when I was cleaning it. Just used a screw driver to push on it.

I still didn't replace the gaskets because they still looked ok.
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