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      11-06-2017, 12:50 PM   #1
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Wink 2007 E93 325i newbie - coming out of long term storage

Hi everyone,
I'm still getting used to the new car and thought it might be a good idea to share my thought with the long-term owners.

It's a joy to drive but I soon realised the complicated design of the car can make faults very difficult (& expensive) to fix.

Examples ?
A simple sparkplug change - needed a special (long, thin) plug spanner.
Rear light clusters - the bulbs are all ok so one of the encapsulated LEDs must be acting up (ie the whole light cluster needs replacing or some creative DIY).
Low tyre pressure warning - it was easy to put some air in the soft tyre but I had to download the PDF owners manual to find out how to reset the warning light!
The manual also showed me how to check the oil level as there's no dipstick.


My main query now is what to do about code readings, I can use a mates Solus Pro diagnostics at his workshop but it's not ideal.

Stuff I'd like to be able to do myself :
Read & reset codes - C110 / U381 / canbus U581 ? (Are the cheap C110s poor clones of the genuine article? )
Monitor individual sensors (I suspect one of the ABS wheel sensors is failing - but which one?) - INPA ?
Possibly coding (so mirrors park when the alarm is set) - Carly ?

Are there any other cheap - portable - code readers that and can do codes and monitor sensors (ABS + engine etc) ?

Most of the cars I've owned in the past have been from the 90s, using OBD2 at best.
I'm amazed how many questions I see about using obsolete laptops (XP+serial port) to run dedicated BMW diagnostic software.
Mentions that there are no user guides for INPA - and it can (and has) turned working cars into immobile non-starters makes me very nervous.

It's not all bad news, but it's a lot more complicated than any other car I've ever owned
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Last edited by UK_Nomad; 03-28-2019 at 10:26 AM.. Reason: title change
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      11-06-2017, 01:01 PM   #2
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ABS & Cruise fault. Pump or sensor ?

Everything was ok when I first got the car, then I started to get occasional ABS & Cruise Control warnings.
Now Cruise & ABS are giving warnings more often than they are working.
I'm hoping it's some shared device that needs fixing, hopefully something simple like a wheel sensor needs cleaning - hence hoping to find a code reader that will let me monitor individual sensors.

Screenshot of the ABS fault codes (there were/are also lots of engine codes but I don't think they would affect Cruise Control)
Would an ABS pump fault affect Cruise Control, or am I right in thinking I should be able to get Cruise working even if the ABS pump is faulty?

Any help or advice would be appreciated !
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      11-06-2017, 01:11 PM   #3
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If you have a PC get the Bimmergeeks cable and download and
set up there software . IstaD for diagnostics is what BMW used
for most of the life of the car and is for all intents and purposes
a shop repair manual . Also every thing you need for coding is included
in the Inpa suite.
See coding subforum for details.

Also there are many sub forums highly use full.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=368

http://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16

http://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=378

electical e90 pdf
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU
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      11-06-2017, 02:51 PM   #4
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Many thanks

I've been browsing the subforums you mentioned a lot during the past couple of weeks looking for answers.
There's a ton of very good info in there - so much I'm getting a bit swamped with information overload

The other I found very useful was http://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=35

I've downloaded the bimmergeeks software, will dig my old laptop (xp with serial port) out of storage tomorrow and install it.

Then I just need to get a cable ordered (I'm based in the UK, the genuine bimmergeeks cable looks great quality but I'm hoping I can find something similar from a UK seller)


It's all a big jump from the E36 325i/328i I've owned in in the past
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      11-07-2017, 02:54 PM   #5
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Handy error code indexs

CC-ID codes
http://mr-fix.info/bmw-cc-id-codes-f...ning-messages/

More (possibly CCID grouped by type)
http://www.endtuning.com/ccidcodes.html

Hex diagnostic codes (for use with a Code scanner)
http://mechanicalee.blogspot.co.uk/2...-hex-code.html
http://mechanicalee.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/bmw-fault-codes-hex-code.html


There's been some progress today, not all of it good...
I called into my mates workshop today and used his Solarus to run diagnostics and check the codes etc.

Using real-time monitoring, the speed sensors on all 4 wheels check out ok.
Clearing the ABS codes didn't help - the pump/wiring codes from yesterday came straight back.
I tried running system diagnostics on the ABS pump but got no response which is making me think the fault is the ABS pump and/or wiring, which isn't good news.

The dashboard is also showing a few fault codes listed below
CC-ID 65 – Change Key, Key Battery Low (new today using the spare keyfob)
CC-ID 24 – DBC Dynamic Brake Control Brake Assist Failed
CC-ID 354 – Start Assist Inactive
CC-ID 114 – Rear Fog Light Failure
CC-ID 129 – Rear Fog Light Failure

I'm fairly confident I can sort the key & light faults, it's the others I think will be difficult

Last edited by UK_Nomad; 11-11-2017 at 02:50 PM.. Reason: Hex code list
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      11-07-2017, 05:09 PM   #6
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If you have the rechargeable Fob



If you have comfort access (keyless entry and start)
it takes a cr2032 found at any drug store for about 3 bucks
us or you can get 10 or them for some ridiculously low price
on ebay.
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      11-07-2017, 05:33 PM   #7
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To answer your question does the ABS pump affect the cruise control the answer is yes. My ABS pump went out on my car 3 months after I got it. $3200 for parts and labor and I was like hell no. Got a used one with identical part numbers and installed myself with software. Had to re-VIN the part as well.
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      11-07-2017, 05:52 PM   #8
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The key charger is a new trick but I'm very happy to try it
The car has no Comfort Access, the key is the rectangular type, same shape as below but sealed for life
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJ_GJFs2qsY
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      11-07-2017, 06:06 PM   #9
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Thanks r0bert for the confirmation, I found lots of info about ABS faults but nothing about Cruise.
I was hoping the Cruise system would just need wheel sensors and throttle/engine braking
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      11-07-2017, 07:11 PM   #10
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Your car could possibly got into limp mode and have weird speedometer jumps up and down. When mine did that I just turned it off and had to pull out key as well. FYI there are two parts to the ABS part. The brain and the the pump itself. If it is truly just the pump you can replace that with a used one without re-vining it.
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      11-08-2017, 01:39 PM   #11
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CC-ID 114 & 129 Rear Fog Lights - Fixed !

The problem wasn't quite what i was expecting, but it's sorted now

The bulbs fit into holders, the holders (with bulb) fit into the foglight assembly.
All this is hidden behind plastic covers inside the boot lid (trunk )

First, remove the plastic cover from inside the boot lid by popping the 2 mushroom clips out, then slide the cover sideways.

I turned the foglights on, and when I started to remove the bulbholder from the foglight ass'y it started working
(the bulbholder is the circular bit, top centre in the photo )
The problem was just a poor contact between the bulbholder and the light ass'y
Then did the same for the other side, same problem ... same easy fix.

It's progress
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      11-10-2017, 01:04 PM   #12
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I've got the ABS / DTC / Cruise Control working again, life is good!

As a reminder, the codes I was seeing were :
5DF0 - pump motor faulty.
5DF1 - pump motor connector damaged.

I tried 2 quick fixes and one of them has cured my codes & warning lights :
Let all the tyres down to 20psi, and re-inflate
Gently tap the ABS pump motor to give it a sharp short shock

More info and background http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...4#post22408754

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      11-10-2017, 03:27 PM   #13
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E9X cars are actually incredibly simple to work on. If you think it's a complicated car from a repairs perspective, then perhaps DIY won't be the best idea for you.
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      11-10-2017, 05:20 PM   #14
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I would think you will need a recon of the ABS unit soon.
I managed to clear my codes a few times but it would eventually always come back. Until finally staying on. Fingers crossed for you though.

I posted mine off to ecutesting & it’s been great this past year.
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      11-11-2017, 03:04 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6ixSpd View Post
E9X cars are actually incredibly simple to work on. If you think it's a complicated car from a repairs perspective, then perhaps DIY won't be the best idea for you.
Thanks for the input but I feel my issue is lack of knowlege about my E93, not due to my lack of DIY.

I went out today, car was running very nicely, I parked up, when it was time to come home the car refused to start.
All gauges and lights are fine but it's as if the starter has been removed.
Recovery turned up and spent a while checking battery, error codes & fuses.
It looks like something is inhibiting the starter circuit as we bump started it and everything was ok.
Turned it off - no starter - it bump started ok.
It drove home fine and is now parked up until I can get the starter working again

The error codes were :
29F3 low fuel pressure sensor - shorted to earth
30C3 engine oil pressure - shorted to earth.
( 30C3 cleared ok but 29F3 would not clear)

The low fuel pressure sensor is now my priority, I've seen a few guides that say it takes several hours and you need to remove the manifold.
Other threads say you can swap the sensor in 20 minutes without distrubing the manifold but I've not found a guide yet.
Does anyone have a link to a "20 minute LPF sensor swap" guide ??

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      11-18-2017, 03:56 PM   #16
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Some decent progress this week !

A new low fuel pressure sensor was fitted (code 29F3 showed it was failing, I didn't know if it was stopping the car starting)

I also got a C110 scanner, very easy to use - checked and cleared all the codes but the car still wouldn't start

Then spent a few days going over all battery & earth connections and tracing the starter circuit. No problems found.
Eventually decided it must be the starter motor so removed the manifold and starter - bench testing showed the starter was dead.
- new starter fitted, car is working for the first time in more than a week

Then decided to do something a bit different, so today I stripped and fixed the LED tail lights - very happy with the new look now all lights are working

A quick DIY quide for LED repair in case anyone is curious
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...7#post22439947

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      03-28-2019, 10:32 AM   #17
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Time for a few updates as I've just got the car out of storage and fixed some small problems.

^ Note the last post was Oct 2017, I've been working away a lot since then and needed a reliable daily car, so I put the E93 into long term storage and went back to using a scruffy 1970 British wreck as daily transport. That says a lot about my lack of confidence in BMW
Last week I started work on the South Coast of UK and decided it's the perfect place to have an E93 for the summer

First quick-fix was the lid for the first aid kit at the front of the passenger seat, this has never stayed closed since I got the car. The lid can be unclipped, then just wash it and I used silicone spray to free up the catch. Now working fine and it's one job off the list
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      03-28-2019, 11:01 AM   #18
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Mileage 133k : I've been getting occasional Vanos warnings ever since I got the car, today I serviced both solenoids & both check valves.
For info, check to make sure the central "spike" isn't missing from your oil filter, this would allow unfiltered oil to circulate and may be the cause of blocked filters !

Solenoids were both nice and clean when removed (photo after a quick wipe to remove faint oil staining)
No need to remove any covers to do the work (UK spec), access is tricky but very obvious.


Check valves next, the bottom one (exhaust?) was clean with just a light staining of oil, the top one (inlet?) was not so clean !
All work was done "from above", a cable clamp had to be removed for access then just feel around. *BIG* thanks to Three_thirty_I for his how-to pics in thread https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...=900394&page=2


Both valves were cleaned with petrol, "suck & blow" tests showed the valves were working ok, they were then oiled and refitted.
Junk below is what came off during cleaning
I've seen similar dark debris when other people have cleaned their valves but the lighter coloured clump of fibres was unexpected.


All cleaned and refitted now, and I'll be going out to play later to check results Worst case is it makes no difference but I still feel happier now I know it's been done
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      03-28-2019, 11:24 AM   #19
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I picked up a set of winter wheels last year so I could refurb the originals, the repainted originals are now back on the car and I'm happy
Expect better photos next time !

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