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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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What would you do in this situation?
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11-15-2017, 05:09 PM | #1 |
Second Lieutenant
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What would you do in this situation?
I have a 08 335i Convertible and everytime I roll up/down the front window, I hear a weird sound like I'm dropping a coin in a slot or something. Here's a video of it in action (around the 2 sec mark):
Any idea what this is? The dealer said it could be a few things. Most likely the regulator or a connector got loose. They want almost $200 for a diagnostic fee to look at it (just went there recently for another issue where I had to do that). So my question is, what would you do in my situation? I have a few options listed below (maybe you have a better option): 1.) Use extended warranty. Pros: Door would be fixed by bmw with a new part, and mechanic does work. Cons: My deductible is $200, and theres a possibility of the other windows doing the same thing, so I could be looking at $800, or worse (since my ext warranty is ending in less than 6 months), more (they quoted $400 if it is the window regulator to fix). 2.) DIY myself Pros: Could save money, and gain experience working on the car. Also, if the other regulators break, I'd be more adept and ready for it. Cons: No warranty behind work (myself), and I'm confident in myself, but as of now, I'd rate myself a 6/10 as for as diy'er. I can do oil changes, spark plugs, even feel confident doing o2 sensor or fuel injectors, but i'm not sure when it comes to this. I mean I'm willing to take my time, go slow, and knock this out, and I have quite of tools (and am able to get the right tools) to do it. I just dont see any guides too much on how to do it for the e92/93 series (theres about a million for the e90 though). Even the bentley manual (pages 512-18/19) do not go in to great detail on do's/don'ts with the window regulator. 3.) Go to an indy/Pay BMW $200 diagnostic fee: Pros: I'd find out exactly the issue, and the dealer/indy could fix it. Cons: I'd pay $100-200 to diagnose + $320(avg indy price)/$400(Dealer) to fix. The indy price isn't much different around here than the dealer, and even if I just pay to diagnose, I'd still be stuck doing either option 1/2. If anyone can give me some more advice on this, it would be appreciated. |
11-15-2017, 09:45 PM | #2 |
douchebaggo
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You can do this, don't doubt yourself. It's a 1 hour job max and you can find videos/write-ups all over the place. You can also go to your regional forum and find another member willing to meet up and give you pointers.
Think of this as a stepping stone onto something more involving, yet inevitable, like OFHG, VCG, starter, water pump... Such is life as a BMW owner. |
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11-16-2017, 03:59 AM | #4 |
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Pull the door trim off, cut back the butyl cord and examine it yourself? That will save you the diag cost.
But if you really want to use the extended warranty if it were me I'd be making that $200 deductible worth the effort *cough |
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11-16-2017, 08:04 AM | #5 |
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Thanks for all the replies everyone, I had a few questions:
1.) What could possibly be the issue? Are there only 4 possible issues: window regulator, window motor, or something off track, loose connector? How would I be able to diagnose or get to the source? 2.) let's assume it's either the regulator or motor. Does anyone know the cost of the part? I've been looking on eBay and seems like I can find used motors for $40 and regulators used for $60. I know, why buy used, but these parts break so much, I figured I could buy these twice before buying it new. 3.) I have 3/8 ratchet, 3/8 torque wrench, magnetic cup to keep my bolts organized, and a ton of sockets commonly used on bmws, would there be any additional tools I should consider (like putting new butyl tape after removing)? |
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11-16-2017, 08:54 AM | #6 |
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Seeing you drive a convertible, a window regulator isnt super easy, since the glass has to be adjusted afterwards to fit/ seal properly. Not the end of the world but no E46
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11-16-2017, 09:15 AM | #7 |
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Jump in, buy parts from a place you can return them to , work slowly , even if you screw it up you are only back to where you started if you find an indy that will use the parts you bought.
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11-16-2017, 10:14 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
I've been watching a dozen e90 videos so I'm wondering if the process is the same: Disconnect the battery first (not sure if this required) Use the tool in the video to pry the side door handle trim. Take of the bolts/screws from the door handle and then there's a bolt at the bottom of the door (on convertibles). Then slowly and carefully start from the bottom and pull of the door panel being careful not to yank off the cable attached or mess up the door lock. Pull off the cable attached and any other cable attached and pull the inside panel off. Then slowly use a razor and pull the foam off without damaging anything. Pull any cables off and then you raise the glass window up and tape it out side to hold it in place. There's a video showing you use a flat head to line it up and take out off the regulator/hold it in place. Disconnect any cables and bolts off the regulator. Then follow the order and instructions on page 512-18/19 of the Bentley manual. Replace the regulator and do the reverse of everything and apply new butyl tape to the foam. Connect battery back and do window reset on car. |
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11-16-2017, 10:15 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
Not sure if I found the right ones or if there's cheaper aftermarket ones? Also, is it possible it could be just a regulator clip? I'm not sure what all entails in there, that's why I'm wondering how would know what could be the issue? Last edited by BMWMusician; 11-16-2017 at 10:30 AM.. |
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11-16-2017, 01:12 PM | #10 |
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Just watched a few more videos. There's a good diy guy called Nathan'sdiy, I know this was for the e39, but he said sometimes there are these two sections below where the glass comes off track and can be a easy fix to replace. Just wondering if that may the case?
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11-16-2017, 05:13 PM | #11 |
douchebaggo
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Since your window does go up and down, the motor is most likely good. I would open it up and take a look before buying parts unless it can be easily returned.
Aftermarket regulators are hit or miss. I paid $50 for a Dorman brand and it gets stuck at the open position. I personally will not use aftermarket regulators anymore. Go to realoem.com to get the correct part number for your car before buying it. |
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11-17-2017, 04:22 AM | #13 |
douchebaggo
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The part that goes out on the OEM regulator is the plastic carrier, which simply disintegrate when the plastic hardens over the years. You simply don't know how long a used one will last. A new OEM is about $100, Dorman is $50, ebay is about $25. I heard ebays ones are crap though. It's your call.
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11-17-2017, 02:03 PM | #15 |
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11-17-2017, 08:45 PM | #16 |
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11-19-2017, 07:39 PM | #17 |
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