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DIY: Heated Steering Wheel Retrofit
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08-22-2018, 10:19 PM | #1 |
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DIY: Heated Steering Wheel Retrofit
Heated Steering Wheel Retrofit
Parts Needed:
DIY: Disconnect the battery and wait 10-15 minutes Take a T-20 screw driver and release the two clips holding the airbag in Disconnect and remove the airbag Remove the 16mm bolt holding in the steering wheel Disconnect all the the connectors and remove the steering wheel ![]() Take a plastic trim tool and remove the steering colum trim Remove the 4 T-30 screws and remove the clock spring ![]() Install the new clock spring ![]() You will need to make a wiring harness for the heated steering wheel. Take the 12 pin connector and transfer the 6 wire to the top 6 pins in the 12 pin connector (1-6). Then you will add the heated steering wheel power and switch wire to the bottom pins (7-12). ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() You can tap power anywhere that is fused for at least 10 amps. The heated steering wheel uses 6 amps with a 10 amp fuse from the factory. I deleted my ash tray so I taped into the unused socket connection. Both cigarette outlets share a 20 amp fuse. Alternatively you can use a fuse tap for power. Make sure you use 18 gauge wire! Once your wiring is done plug both harnesses back into the clock spring Plug in the heated steering wheel button and install the steering column trim Install the heated steering wheel making sure all of the connections are tucked away from the airbag. Torque to 46 ft lb. ![]() Install the airbag. Connect the battery again and start the car. If your replacement clock spring was spun at all you will need to calibrate the steering angle sensor. I used ISTA for this. If you are getting DSC errors then you will need to flash a blank man file to the DSC. After any coding you may need you are all done ![]() The light will be on when the heated steering wheel is on. It will automatically shut off when you turn the car off. The wheel does not getting burning hot but it does get noticeably warm even when it is 90F outside. I did this retrofit for $80 using my magic eBay powers. I would not spend more than $150-$300 on this depending on what steering wheel you have. |
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08-24-2018, 11:26 PM | #3 |
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Hello, Nickco43.
I sent you a PM regarding the custom harness. I hope you have some time to look at it in the middle of all your retrofits ![]() |
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08-25-2018, 10:31 AM | #4 |
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08-25-2018, 11:57 AM | #5 |
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I have been following your posts. Great job on them.
I've been working on this for "quite some time" https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1502142 I also have been wanting to do the heated steering wheel retrofit in my 2011 328i. I have question/request. Would you be willing to do the custom harness and if you do, how much would it be shipped to Calgary, Alberta (T3R0T3)? My car doesn't have the smoker package and it's a non-sport steering wheel. So I'll have to tap into the fuse box. I have already got: - heated wheel - bottom trim/shroud piece - switch All I need is the clockspring and need the custom harness. Keep up the good work. |
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08-25-2018, 01:51 PM | #6 | |
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I can see if I can find a clock spring as well. |
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08-25-2018, 01:59 PM | #7 |
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That would be great. As for the clockspring. I'll try to get a brand new one within Canada to save a bit on shipping and exchange rate ($1USD = $0.74CAD !!)
Reason for a brand new is I can't guarantee if it has not been moved around and it would be offcentre. And I don't have any coding tools to fix it if it needs to. Let me know about payment and I'll send you my full address. Appreciate it. |
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10-04-2018, 07:57 PM | #8 |
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If your car does not have the cigarette lighter socket ahead of the shifter, where else would be a good source to tap for power?
Rather, I have a spare ciagrette lighter socket and wiring from a wrecked car, does anyone know if all E90s have the plug for this with or without the Smoker's Package? If so, then I can just plug in that donor OE harness and tap into it for power.
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'16 M3 | '23 718 Spyder ![]() Past: E92 M3, F87 M2, E39 M5, etc Last edited by 6ixSpd; 10-04-2018 at 08:26 PM.. |
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10-05-2018, 11:11 AM | #9 | |
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10-14-2018, 03:11 PM | #10 |
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Thanks Nickco43! I'm in the process of acquiring the parts, so I thought I would share some of the part numbers for the wheel, clockspring, button, and plastic cover to make it easier to search. The parts are shared across other BMWs, including the Z4, X3, etc. My less magical ebay powers totaled $150 for everything - but hopefully I can sell my old clock spring for $50+ to bring my price to sub-$100. Regardless, a warm, smiling wife is well worth the cost for me!
Heated Steering Wheel ($40) - 32306795568 Clock Spring with blue connector ($85) - 61319122509 or 9122509 Plastic Steering Column Trim ($25) - 61319143645 or just 9143645 Button ($0 - see below) - 61319143639 or 9143639 FWIW - The steering column trim for the heated seat button is different than the non-heated steering trim. I was prepared to cut into my existing trim to fit the button, but I got lucky in finding the trim and button together for $25. Good luck! Last edited by triax37; 10-14-2018 at 03:23 PM.. |
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10-15-2018, 03:02 PM | #11 | |
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10-15-2018, 04:43 PM | #12 | |
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I'm still interested in that ACC retrofit too! |
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11-26-2018, 12:14 AM | #13 |
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Thank you, Nickco43.
Today I finally got to put it all together, and now I have a heated steering wheel... woohoo ![]() Took some fighting to fish the wire from the side of the centre console, under the centre console, out the other side and into the steering column. One thing though, on my car (2011 328i) I was trying to see if I can tap into the heated seats fuse, but the amp on it doesn't read 10 from my fuse diagram. So I tapped into #12 which was empty slot. But now the button can be triggered while the car is off, which would risk rendering the battery dead if left on by accident. Any ideas which one that would have suitable amp and be switched power source. Better if it would receive power only if the engine was running. https://photos.app.goo.gl/zvqrjJ2GxSXwBNrr5 Again, thank you for the wire harness, worked great. ![]() |
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11-26-2018, 11:48 AM | #14 | |
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11-28-2018, 02:09 PM | #16 |
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Just updated the shared album with photos of the fuse box and the layout diagram.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zvqrjJ2GxSXwBNrr5 Also, I drove the car today, and felt it like the brakes were pressed (heavy feeling). Then noticed the turn signal doesn't shut after turning. Then...yes, there is more ![]() Parked it, launched Protool and reset DSC and angle sensor. All is good now. There is one slight noise coming from the steering wheel turning to the left. I can describe it like a faint kitten call, or similar to running your finger on a nylon jacket :P I hope it's just due to the clockspring being new? Really don't want to take things apart again. |
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11-28-2018, 02:29 PM | #17 |
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Getting a bit greedy
![]() Would this fit and function properly https://www.ebay.ca/itm/BMW-F20-F22-...MAAOSw76xbiCd4 |
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11-28-2018, 02:33 PM | #18 | |
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Try fuse 13. it is 10 amps to the communications module. See if it switched. |
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11-28-2018, 02:34 PM | #19 | |
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11-28-2018, 03:57 PM | #21 |
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Got this project finished up today in my e91. I was a bit of an idiot and replaced the entire clockspring + control module and lost function of my rear wiper. A friend pointed out my stupidity and i put my old control module back in with the new clockspring and it worked a charm. It's SO nice to have this on short drives when it's freezing outside.
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11-28-2018, 08:52 PM | #22 |
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