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      03-21-2019, 09:17 AM   #1
SlimE92
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Missing fuse?

I downloaded a fuse diagram since the one in my car was missing. I noticed that one of the fuses is missing. Fuse number 33 which is for the electric coolant pump aka water pump. I'm not having any issues with the pump but do notice that my car takes a little while to warm up and get to temp. Can any of you guys with a 335 with a build date after 9/2007 confirm that you have a fuse plugged into number 33
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      03-21-2019, 10:53 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by SlimE92 View Post
I downloaded a fuse diagram since the one in my car was missing. I noticed that one of the fuses is missing. Fuse number 33 which is for the electric coolant pump aka water pump. I'm not having any issues with the pump but do notice that my car takes a little while to warm up and get to temp. Can any of you guys with a 335 with a build date after 9/2007 confirm that you have a fuse plugged into number 33
I can't confirm 'cuz I don't have an N54 >9/2007 build, but TIS circuit diagram shows F37 powers Control Circuit for Pump & Thermostat, and F07 (50A in E-box) supplies POWER to pump motor:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/vRilOSj

Here is the "Installation Location" for F07 (all alone in the front of E-box ;-)
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335i-cou/RzzQ0oQ

Although there is some conflicting information in TIS & Bentley, Bentley states that N54 built after 3/2007 has 50A fuse F07 in front of E-box that powers the Coolant Pump (M6035). See bottom of page, ECL-28, pdf p.941. In fact, according to Bentley, N54 models <3/2007 also used F07 to power the Coolant Pump, just a 40A fuse.

I would suggest ALWAYS double-checking electrical circuit info between Bentley & TIS, as there ARE some conflicting statements regarding fuse capacities, and change dates, particularly during the 2007 calendar year when fuse layouts & designations changed two or more times, effective 3/2007 & 9/2007 (2008 & later models). If you don't have the Bentley Manual in searchable pdf format, you can download it from the site linked in the attached E9x References pdf.

George
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      03-21-2019, 01:41 PM   #3
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      03-21-2019, 01:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
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Originally Posted by SlimE92 View Post
I downloaded a fuse diagram since the one in my car was missing. I noticed that one of the fuses is missing. Fuse number 33 which is for the electric coolant pump aka water pump. I'm not having any issues with the pump but do notice that my car takes a little while to warm up and get to temp. Can any of you guys with a 335 with a build date after 9/2007 confirm that you have a fuse plugged into number 33
I can't confirm 'cuz I don't have an N54 >9/2007 build, but TIS circuit diagram shows F37 powers Control Circuit for Pump & Thermostat, and F07 (50A in E-box) supplies POWER to pump motor:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/vRilOSj

Here is the "Installation Location" for F07 (all alone in the front of E-box ;-)
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335i-cou/RzzQ0oQ

Although there is some conflicting information in TIS & Bentley, Bentley states that N54 built after 3/2007 has 50A fuse F07 in front of E-box that powers the Coolant Pump (M6035). See bottom of page, ECL-28, pdf p.941. In fact, according to Bentley, N54 models <3/2007 also used F07 to power the Coolant Pump, just a 40A fuse.

I would suggest ALWAYS double-checking electrical circuit info between Bentley & TIS, as there ARE some conflicting statements regarding fuse capacities, and change dates, particularly during the 2007 calendar year when fuse layouts & designations changed two or more times, effective 3/2007 & 9/2007 (2008 & later models). If you don't have the Bentley Manual in searchable pdf format, you can download it from the site linked in the attached E9x References pdf.

George
Thanks for the info. But I'm presume that the fuse inside the dme box is working fine. The water pump is less than a year old so I'm not worried about it going bad, just a bit worried about that missing fuse in the glove box relating to the pump. I have the full fuse diagram for my car and checked every fuse in the box and they are all functioning, I'm just wondering if the empty one I'm worried about is a spare or not.
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      03-21-2019, 02:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimE92 View Post
I downloaded a fuse diagram since the one in my car was missing. I noticed that one of the fuses is missing. Fuse number 33 which is for the electric coolant pump aka water pump. I'm not having any issues with the pump but do notice that my car takes a little while to warm up and get to temp. Can any of you guys with a 335 with a build date after 9/2007 confirm that you have a fuse plugged into number 33
mmm...my slot 33 is a blank slot. I have a 2011 335i sedan. I took these pictures last week for another issue I had when my door locks stopped working.
Also to put your mind at ease my car does the same as well.

Even on the coldest days we had this winter (I live in New York too) my odometer temp gauge would take 30 minutes of driving to show me that it was warmed up. Also keep in mind that gauge shows your oil temp and not your coolant temp. So if you had or have another car where coolant temp is shown then yeah it would look like your BMW E9x has slow increase in temp on your odometer temp gauge.





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Last edited by delmarco; 03-21-2019 at 02:42 PM..
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      03-21-2019, 02:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delmarco View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimE92 View Post
I downloaded a fuse diagram since the one in my car was missing. I noticed that one of the fuses is missing. Fuse number 33 which is for the electric coolant pump aka water pump. I'm not having any issues with the pump but do notice that my car takes a little while to warm up and get to temp. Can any of you guys with a 335 with a build date after 9/2007 confirm that you have a fuse plugged into number 33
mmm...my slot 33 is a blank slot. I have a 2011 335i sedan. I took these pictures last week for another issue I had when my door locks stopped working.






Anything built after 9/2010 will have different fuse locations from what I've been reading up so far. Is your build date before then? Your fuse box does look a bit different than mine if I'm correct.
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      03-21-2019, 02:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimE92 View Post
I downloaded a fuse diagram since the one in my car was missing. I noticed that one of the fuses is missing. Fuse number 33 which is for the electric coolant pump aka water pump. I'm not having any issues with the pump but do notice that my car takes a little while to warm up and get to temp. Can any of you guys with a 335 with a build date after 9/2007 confirm that you have a fuse plugged into number 33
mmm...my slot 33 is a blank slot. I have a 2011 335i sedan. I took these pictures last week for another issue I had when my door locks stopped working.






Anything built after 9/2010 will have different fuse locations from what I've been reading up so far. Is your build date before then? Your fuse box does look a bit different than mine if I'm correct.
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      03-21-2019, 02:39 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delmarco View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimE92 View Post
I downloaded a fuse diagram since the one in my car was missing. I noticed that one of the fuses is missing. Fuse number 33 which is for the electric coolant pump aka water pump. I'm not having any issues with the pump but do notice that my car takes a little while to warm up and get to temp. Can any of you guys with a 335 with a build date after 9/2007 confirm that you have a fuse plugged into number 33
mmm...my slot 33 is a blank slot. I have a 2011 335i sedan. I took these pictures last week for another issue I had when my door locks stopped working.


[img]https://www.e90post.com/forums/attac...7&d=1552334286[/img]

[img]https://www.e90post.com/forums/attac...4&d=1552335161[/img]

[img]https://www.e90post.com/forums/attac...8&d=1552335028[/img]
Anything built after 9/2010 will have different fuse locations from what I've been reading up so far. Is your build date before then? Your fuse box does look a bit different than mine if I'm correct.
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      03-21-2019, 02:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimE92 View Post
Anything built after 9/2010 will have different fuse locations from what I've been reading up so far. Is your build date before then? Your fuse box does look a bit different than mine if I'm correct.
My car has a 5/2011 build date and is a 2011 335i xDrive Sedan.

The pictures above of the fuse panel and diagram sheets are from my car. The locations will be same but the numbers are different so my fuse for the waterpump will be in the same location as your fuses but the numbers on the sheets would be different between the sheet that is in my car and the sheet that came with your car.


I also added that the temp gauge in your odometer is for the OIL TEMPERATURE and NOT coolant temperature so if you have another car that your drive now or driven in the past that showed coolant temperature then you will find the E9x oil temp gauge is slow to warm up.

It takes my car 30+ minutes of driving before the needle gets to the normal warm spot.
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      03-21-2019, 02:52 PM   #10
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In addition if your waterpump fuse was missing you won' be driving your car around in any way to see your temp needle rise slow.

A BMW without a working waterpump, or waterpump fuse, is a parked BMW.
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      03-21-2019, 02:55 PM   #11
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In addition if your waterpump fuse was missing you won' be driving your car around in any way to see your temp needle rise slow.

A BMW without a working waterpump, or waterpump fuse, is a parked BMW.
Same thing I was thinking. Although my ocd won't let me rest until somebody can confirm lol
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      03-21-2019, 08:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimE92 View Post
Same thing I was thinking. Although my ocd won't let me rest until somebody can confirm lol
You don't trust TIS & Bentley, but you'll believe anyone who posts here claiming they have an N54 built >9/2007 and know how to decipher their fuse locations?


ONE more time

Your N54 built > 9/2007:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/vRilOSj
F07 (50A) in E-box provides power for Pump Motor (M6035 - far right of schematic);
F37 on JB Fuse Panel provides power for Pump Control Circuit (along with Thermostat & other components);

Delmarco's 2011 N55:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...oling/CkZZ9efB
F03 (50A) in E-box provides power for Pump Motor; DME provides power for control circuit (NO separate fuse);

ANYONE's 328i/xi built > 9/2007:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/vFKjkjB
F33 provides power for Pump Motor & F37 provides Control Circuit Power, BOTH on JB Fuse panel

Pardon the rant, but today there's SO MUCH CRAP on the Web that it's essential to know WHAT INFORMATION you can actually RELY ON, and how to confirm that. "Research" is NOT a dirty word, or something ONLY for "academics." If you want to prove it with your own eyes & ears, (1) open E-box, (2) remove F07 at front of box, (3) try to run coolant pump bleed procedure (Ignition ON, engine OFF, Accelerator Pedal to floor for 10 seconds) and NOTE that pump does NOT run; (4) Replace F07 fuse, (5) Close E-box, (6) Obsess over something worthwhile.
George

Last edited by gbalthrop; 03-21-2019 at 08:57 PM..
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      03-21-2019, 08:55 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimE92 View Post
Same thing I was thinking. Although my ocd won't let me rest until somebody can confirm lol
You don't trust TIS & Bentley, but you'll believe anyone who posts here claiming they have an N54 built >9/2007 and know how to decipher their fuse locations?


ONE more time

Your N54 built > 9/2007:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/vRilOSj
F07 (50A) in E-box provides power for Pump Motor (M6035 - far right of schematic);
F37 on JB Fuse Panel provides power for Pump Control Circuit (along with Thermostat & other components);

Delmarco's 2011 N55:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...oling/CkZZ9efB
F03 (50A) in E-box provides power for Pump Motor; DME provides power for control circuit (NO separate fuse);

ANYONE's 328i/xi built > 9/2007:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/vFKjkjB
F33 provides power for Pump Motor & F37 provides Control Circuit Power, BOTH on JB Fuse panel

Pardon the rant, but today there's SO MUCH CRAP on the Web that it's essential to know WHAT INFORMATION you can actually RELY ON, and how to confirm that. "Research" is NOT a dirty word, or something ONLY for "academics."

George
When did I say all of that?? I never said I don't trust anything or anyone I just want confirmation. And just as I suspected look at the pic attached(other codes will be remedied this weekend). Leaving work now and heading to auto zone to replace the missing fuse.
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      03-21-2019, 08:58 PM   #14
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I recently changed my T stat op car would take long to warm up. Thought it was winter temps but it really was my thermostat.

You will want to monitor your coolant temps rather than oil temps it'l confirm the issue easily, and check if they keep climbing on the highway or they stabalise or even dip. My coolant would be 45c on the highway.

Another test, run the rad fan when not moving when the car is up to temp and when the car is not. If coolant dips when you do your t stat is stuck open.
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      03-21-2019, 09:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
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I recently changed my T stat op car would take long to warm up. Thought it was winter temps but it really was my thermostat.

You will want to monitor your coolant temps and check if they keep climbing on the highway.

Another test, run the rad fan when not moving when the car is up to temp and when the car is not. If coolant dips when you do your t stat is stuck open.
My thermostat and w/p and U shaped hose where replaced less than a year ago I will def monitor the temps more closely now
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      03-21-2019, 09:52 PM   #16
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Quote:
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...When did I say all of that?? I never said I don't trust anything or anyone I just want confirmation. And just as I suspected look at the pic attached...Leaving work now and heading to auto zone to replace the missing fuse.
(1) I would be interested to know what changes when you put a fuse in the F33 slot (if your JB even has sockets in that slot);

(2) I would be interested to know what the mileage was (per FF Data) when the Three (3) Coolant Pump Circuit-related faults were saved in DME memory, and your current mileage.

Here are the definitions of the three codes (per SIB 120405 & Bentley):
2E83: Electric coolant pump, power-reduced operation, dry run
2E85: Electric coolant pump, communication, no voltage at emergency operation input of pump
2E8B: three different P-codes with slightly different definitions:
P150A | 2E8B | Battery Sensor Extended Communication Circuit
P150B | 2E8B | Battery Sensor Serial Data Interface
P150C | 2E8B | Battery Sensor Firmware Implausible

Here are preliminary tests at the Coolant Pump Connector, X6035, for your model per SIB 120405, after changing X6035 Pin & Fuse References to conform to your model:
NOTE: All measurements should be performed with the battery charger connected to the vehicle. 1. Measure the following at connector X6035 on the electric coolant water pump:
- Pin 1 (fuse F37) and Pin 4 ground (X6455) = 12 volts
- Pin 3 (fuse F07) and Pin 4 ground (X6455) = 12 volts
- Pin 2 BSD signal (from DME Pin 26) and Pin 4 ground (X6455) = 7.5 - 8.5 volts
All Pins & Connectors numbered per the previously-furnished schematic for Coolant Pump Circuit:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ooling/vRilOSj

Has any BSD connector been disconnected recently, including the IBS to BSD connector over the Negative battery terminal? Here is the BSD interface for your car:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...rnator/bzQCNHS

Please let us know what you find,
George
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