[RDMNB]

Hi everyone,

So I borrowed my parents 07 335i convertible and noticed some warning lights in dash: seatbelt / airbag / yellow triangle.

I hooked up my bluetooth obd2 scanner and it gave me 16 codes. Wow!

To start off it gave me codes 93b2 and 9406.
I read a lot about those and what to start off with checking. BTS, related wiring etc.

But I figured before I start checking each code individually, maybe I should reach out to more experienced people to see if maybe 16 codes is indicative of a more serious issue.

Or maybe pointing to 1 major issue causing multiple codes??

Junction box module
A6CF AUC sensor

Advanced crash and safety management codes
93b2 zk10 / safety battery terminal
9406 rollover controller undervoltage
93d0 supply voltage undervoltage
9408 unterspannung im pdc

Engine codes
2dc3 control klemme 15
2e8d intelligent battery sensor, signal transmission

Dynamic stability control code
5df4 dsc-ecu
Ecu-internal: adc calibration error

Car access system code
A0b4 fault engine start starter

Footwell module codes
A8af
A8ae

Air conditioning code
9c6c 12v output peripherie

Instrument cluster codes
931d
E104

Passive GO system codes
A0b5
A095

What do yall think?
Where would you start?
Mostly Any chance 1 major fault is causing all these codes?
Thanks a million for any help.

(Closest BMW dealer is 2.5 hours away.
Last time my dad went there they said airbag light = $4000 (thousand) minimum without even looking at the car. So let's just say he won't be going back there. Was very sketchy.)

[Biginboca]

One place I always start on these cars is... How old is your battery?

[nsjames]

the first thing I would do is check the battery.

the second thing I would do is figure out the BST issue, and if it's causing brownouts in voltage to the modules.

you will get all kind of weird errors in these cars if the power supply to the systems is not consistent and clean.

[RDMNB]

Thank you both for the quick replies.
I'm waiting on my dad to get back to me but I'm 99% sure the battery is 2 years old. And he had the dealer reset his system after the battery change.

I will start with BST issue as you suggest. Seems logical. Check battery, connections, etc. Thanks.

[relative4]

Actually, step 1 is clear all codes and see what comes back.

[RDMNB]

Well battery is actually 5 years old.
Looks like I'll be changing that too.
Will search the forums to see if I can change it without messing up the codes and needing to go to dealer.

[Ruster82]

Originally Posted by relative4

Actually, step 1 is clear all codes and see what comes back.

This is where I would start too, you may find less codes come back narrowing your search.

[gbalthrop]

I commend you for your approach in wanting to know HOW to address the Codes in a logical fashion. Virtually ALL of them are related to wiring or voltage supply issues (I used ISTA or BMW Fault Code Lookup for MOST of them).

IF the vehicle is one that you/your parents would like to KEEP for a number of years, then it makes sense to get proper Diagnostic Software, such as INPA or ISTA (FREE Software Downloads) and install them on a Windows Laptop. ONLY expense is $45 K+DCAN Cable from BimmerGeeks. Even though it takes TIME to learn how to use that Factory-Level or Dealer-Level software, Forum members can help you quickly access the data you need to Diagnose a specific issue.

My FIRST suggestion is to determine the capability of your existing Scan Tool. So you know what is "Possible" I'll describe what BMW Software can do, and what your vehicle can show you with "fully-capable" software.

1) INPA or ISTA will tell you if a particular fault code is "currently present". You don't want to chase a code that was a "hiccup" hundreds/ thousands of miles ago, and is NOT now present.
2) INPA or ISTA could also provide "Freeze Frame Data" or a "snapshot" of system conditions (e.g. voltage) at the instant the Fault Code was saved in Module Memory.
3) INPA/ISTA can display as "Live Data", INPUTS to a certain module, such as sensor signals, button or switch positions, anything that module receives as a signal from a component connected to it.
4) INPA/ISTA allows you to "Activate" components such as lights, motors or solenoids connected to a Module, to test the OUTPUT side of Module circuits. For instance, your FRM Faults are both related to your L/R Fog lights. Bulb monitor Warning Light should appear on the Instrument Cluster if fault is currently present.

As for the $4,000 "minimum" to look at the MRS (Multiple Restraint System) issues, I don't see anything in the codes to suggest that is called for. Better Diagnostic Software would HELP, but the BST (Battery Safety Terminal) Fault is likely a loose, disconnected, or damaged 2-pin connector of the wires that would Activate the BST to disconnect the Power to the engine compartment in the event of frontal collision. If the battery was changed prior to that warning light appearing, then that is further evidence of improper procedure by whoever installed new battery, and the fix SHOULD be simple/cheap.

Same for other MRS codes. Those are ALL indicating "undervoltage" = "unterspannung" at some time in the past. The last MRS code (9408) says undervoltage during self-test. There are several other codes such as the two DME codes which suggest an issue with the "Terminal 15 Wake-up circuit". THAT could be due to improper connections of wires after battery replacement (short-to-ground in IBS signal).

So my suggestions, IF you plan on keeping the vehicle and DIY on fix-up:
1) Assess capability of current Scan Tool as compared with INPA/ISTA described above;
2) OPTIONAL: If you have Windows 10 Laptop, Download/Install BMW Standard Tools (INPA); Forum can give specifics on WebSites, etc.
3) Display and RECORD ALL Diagnostic Data your Scan Tool can provide;
4) CLEAR ALL fault codes and drive a few miles to see what return.
5) Open the Battery Compartment and take some photos of (1) the two wires connected to the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) on the Negative Terminal of the Battery, and follow each wire to where its connector is plugged into something on the other end, with photo of connection or loose connector; of (2) the Positive Battery Terminal where the BST Trigger connector should be attached to the BST.
6) Post photos and information of vehicle history (recent work done on it and by whom, new parts such as battery, when any Warning Lights appeared on Instrument Cluster, etc.)

With that information, we can help you prioritize and address each issue (the fog lights are WAAAY down the list ;-). Be aware that TIS Online Service Manual (Technical Information Service) provides excellent component locations and wiring diagrams to assist in Electrical System diagnosis. If you have a Multimeter and know how to use it, you can go a long way with nothing but the DMM & TIS wiring diagrams. As example, here are the MRS Module (A12) wiring diagram for your car, and the Installation location (under the center console):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...tem/1VnXWOr4Ym
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e93-335i-cab/SPtVX54

George

[RDMNB]

This forum is pretty awesome. Very welcoming and not condescending. Very refreshing. Thanks.

I cleared the codes and after a 25 minute drive NO codes came back. I stopped and restarted prior to running the scanner. This is highly unlikely to be accurate given I still have warning lights on the dash. Will take another drive tomorrow and try running it again.

My scanner is a Bluedriver bluetooth.
Here's what it says it can do with my specific BMW model.



Here are pics of the battery wiring. It all looks solidly connected.







Warnings still showing in dash even though scanner returned no codes:

[RDMNB]

I will definitely be keeping this car a few more years. My dad just gave it to me today when I called him about the battery lol.

I will order the K+DCAN & install the mentionned software on my Win10 laptop.

[fgpalmer71]

I'm new to this but I can tell you your dash lights in that pic and the 9406 code are things I dealt with right after purchasing my car a few months ago. Don't default to me at all, but rather follow the advice laid out above. But, if that code and those particular lights on the dash persist you'll need to replace your ROC unit. (Roll over control unit). It controls the roll bars that pop out of the headrests should the car find itself upside down. It's located behind the rear seat back on the drivers side. I was able to source a used unit from a member here and installed it myself. It's relatively easy to get to and swap out should you need to. GL with it.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by RDMNB

This forum is pretty awesome. Very welcoming and not condescending. Very refreshing. Thanks. [Most "Self-appointed Experts" have moved on or chilled ]
I cleared the codes and after a 25 minute drive NO codes came back. I stopped and restarted prior to running the scanner. This is highly unlikely to be accurate given I still have warning lights on the dash. Will take another drive tomorrow and try running it again.
My scanner is a Bluedriver bluetooth...

Airbag/Seatbelt warning lights indicate you have at least ONE code in MRS Module Memory, such as 93B2 for the BST (Battery Safety Terminal). Your IBS connections (blue connector over (-) terminal and Red wire clipped to rear of Rear Power Distribution Panel (on top of battery) appear to be properly-connected. Can't see the BST Trigger Connector enough to tell if that is snugly in place. On yours, the trigger wires run in the Black sheath from the Black connector on top of the battery toward the fender and then "U-turn" to the BST on the (+) Terminal at the front of the battery. Hopefully all the other codes were just "hiccups" and will NOT return.

If you have a code in the MRS (Multiple Restraint System) Module, see if your scan tool can read any "Freeze Frame Data" (Snapshot of system conditions when code saved) in that module. The "Live Data" it says it can read is ALL in the DME (Engine Control Module). While THAT is the most important module for diagnosis, INPA/ISTA will give you live data in ALL Modules. You do NOT want to do "Activations" when connected to the MRS Module though, so INPA/ISTA does NOT have that "Feature/Bug".

If you want to get a K+DCAN Cable and Software FREE Download, I would recommend BimmerGeeks. Contact and Download information is in the "E9x References" pdf attached below. There are other cables for LE$$, but the BG Cable has NOT had any complaints on the Forums for the last 3 years that I have seen, except ONE report of damage in shipment. I've used it for 3 years w/o issue.

I also attach a pdf, "INPA Tutorial Quickstart" which explains how to setup the cable and use INPA "Functional Jobs" to get initial information. As stated in the Tutorial, Functional Jobs is only the FIRST STEP. There is a LOT more to INPA than just Reading Fault Codes, and you need to learn how to connect to EACH of the approximately 20 modules in the vehicle to get the FULL picture.

You have to install BMW Standard Tools (which contains INPA, NCS coding software, WinKFP Flashing software, etc.) BEFORE you install ISTA/ Rheingold, so I would suggest FIRST only downloading (1) BMW Standard Tools and (2) "E89 Datens" (used by E90,E91,E92 & E93) and installing them, and Downloading or installing ISTA a bit later. Don't let the German in INPA scare you. The German Techs were VERY precise and it is helpful to use Google Translate to get the proper "Technical English" translation, assuming you already know the proper English Technical Terminology.

George

[RDMNB]

Thanks again for the replies.
I'm slowly reading through the documents / links.

Question about the bimmergeeks pro k+dxan cable.
I'm ordering that this morning. But,
There's an option for an android OTG USB-C adapter.
Should I add that for $5?
If all the software will be on my win10 laptop I don't understand why they offer that. Unless it's to connect specifically to their own app / licence they sell.

I think I answered my own question lol.

Apparently I also have 1 outstanding recall:

Recall Campaign No. 2017-588: Blower regulator Wiring harness (61 83 17RC)

[Ruster82]

You are correct the extra cable is just so you can use their app on your phone or tablet and isn't needed if you are using inpa on a laptop.

I didn't pay the price for the official bimmer geeks cable and instead opted for a cheaper (£12 in the UK) K+DCAN cable from eBay, it works perfectly fine for inpa and coding with NCSexpert/dummy.

I hear sometimes depending on what cable you buy (white or green circuit board) they can be unreliable but just another option to consider.

[Emilime75]

The problem with random K+DCan cables is that you don't know what you're going to get. Even if an eBay/Amazon source is reliable today, it doesn't mean the cable you're going to get from the same seller next week will be sourced from the same manufacturer. Then you're left pulling your hair out trying to determine why you can't achieve a reliable connection and end up buying another cable. Just spend a few bucks more to avoid all of the above.

If I was buying a cable today, I'd go with the BimmerGeeks and include their OTG adapter. Their ProTool app is quite useful for coding. Haven't tried their diagnostics, but you may want to consider this as an option since you're going to be keeping the car for a while.

By "check your battery", we mean more than just a visual inspection. Put a meter on it with the car not running and then again with it running. Measure voltage in both cases. Try first with the car not running and sitting at least over night to see how well it holds a charge, then start the car and see what it measures then.

[RDMNB]

Ordered the bimmergeeks k+dxan and otg connector. Paid for faster shipping can't wait too many weeks. Going into storage soon.

Checked battery voltage with multimeter directly at battery neg/pos terminals.

11.8v not running, sitting since last night.
14.3v running, no radio or ac or lights
14.25v radio on, AC full, lights on
12.3v after turning car off.

[Emilime75]

11.8v is low. A fully charged battery should read around 12.6v with the car not running. The threshold that determines a battery is charged and discharged is 12.39-12.4v. At 11.8v, the battery is either no good, or you have a parasitic draw while the car is off.

I'm going to guess that since your parents gave you the car, that it wasn't their main means of transport and likely hadn't been driven in a while before you got in it and saw all of those codes.

How long has the car sat unused before you got it and did you have to jump it to get it started?

[RDMNB]

I think the car maybe sat a week or two. They mostly used their newer vehicle. But the BMW would be used at least every week or two, although usually for only a short 5-10 minute ride on average.

They did say a month or so back the battery died when they put on the radio for a while at the beach with the car not running.

Also they said it seems like the car is no longer charging the 2 key fobs.

I found a battery post and it was very overwhelming.
Is there an easy answer to: which is the best battery I can buy? I don't want to cheap out.

I found a post how to register it with INPA.

[RDMNB]

Okay. So I received my Bimmergeeks K+dcan cable and otg adapter.

I installed BMW standard tools. Datens is taking forever to download though.

So I connected the laptop to the car and tried INPA.
It's dark out so this was just a quick try. Tomorrow I will be giving it my all to try and understand what I'm supposed to do with INPA.

I went into INPA functional jobs
F2 identification
F4 fault memory

It showed only 14 modules, and all said okay.

I think I'm just now realizing there was a 2nd page to that screen which I did not go see.

Basically my question at this point is what am I looking for in INPA?

Is the #1 task to go back in tomorrow and look at page 2 where my 14 modules were listed, which I missed?

I tried clicking on the MRS as mentionned above and got an error message.

Will do it again tomorrow and save / name screenshots.

Recap:

2007 335i automatic convertible
my Bluedriver Bluetooth OBD2 was originally showing 16 codes. I reset them all and only 2 have come back and it's been about a week:

93b2 zk10 / safety battery terminal
A8AE (footwell module code)

Dash lights: seatbelt and airbag lights are on,
Passenger restraint system warning on radio entertainment screen.
Battery after resting overnight hovers around 11.7v
Am now getting battery symbol in dash sometimes.

[rick100]

you may have 16 codes but many of them are related to the battery. You said the battery is 5 years old , so you may start by replacing the battery , standard maintenance on any car, hopefully that removes the codes related to battery , which may also take care of other codes ( I have seen that here , where bad battery cause a Christmas light on the dash)

[RDMNB]

So I got a pic of the battery specs.

1- can I just give these specs to the local parts store to buy a battery? Or do I need to give extra info?

2- I found this plug which was not connected to anything.
Any ideas what it is and where it goes? I couldn't even find a place for it when I looked.

[Emilime75]

It's a connector used during transport of the vehicle from the factory to their destination. Not used beyond that, you can forget about it.