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      09-20-2021, 06:59 PM   #1
wholetthedogsout
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N54 Fuel Pump Issues

Hey guys,
For the past couple of weeks I've been having some issues with my E60 N54, it first started with me in a drive through and a "faulty fuel pump" message came on and the car shut off. For about 5 minutes the car wouldn't crank, but somehow it magically turned on and I drove it home. 3 weeks of more driving and the issue didn't occur again until I'm at a stoplight and BOOM the car dies. But magically 25 minutes later, I'm able to drive it down to BMW around a 15 minute drive. I was out of warranty for the fuel pump(car is 11 years old and 2k miles over). But I take it to a mechanic who replaces the fuel pump and keeps the fuel pump module. I get it back today from the mechanic, and I then drive it back home, where towards the end of my trip the car DIES again! However, I wait 3 - 5 minutes and the car magically is able to drive back to my house. Can someone help point me in the right direction!
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      09-20-2021, 07:08 PM   #2
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What fuel pump did he replace? We have two. Which error codes were you getting? Did he check voltage at your EKP module?
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      09-20-2021, 07:30 PM   #3
wholetthedogsout
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Originally Posted by Dave92N54 View Post
What fuel pump did he replace? We have two. Which error codes were you getting? Did he check voltage at your EKP module?
I took it to BMW and they said it WAS NOT the HPFP, I then proceeded to argue with them for around 10 minutes. Also to note they told me to replace my oil, which funny enough was replaced around 100 miles before I brought the car in so fuck knows if they are telling me the truth.
In terms of error codes I was getting 2AAE and 2FCA

Here is the link to the part I replaced:

https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/...ht-16117373521
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      09-20-2021, 07:44 PM   #4
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2FCA is typically HPFP, unfortunately that dealer is likely wrong.
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      09-20-2021, 08:13 PM   #5
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Yes looks like the hpfp,

Looks like he pulled the wrong tooth (pink panther, inspector clouseau)
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      09-20-2021, 09:02 PM   #6
wholetthedogsout
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgop335 View Post
Yes looks like the hpfp,

Looks like he pulled the wrong tooth (pink panther, inspector clouseau)
Sounds good, only other question was in my Error memory I threw both 6292, and 6293 with the descriptions being the following.

6293:EKP engine: current too high
6292:EKP motor: voltage too low
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      09-20-2021, 11:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wholetthedogsout View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgop335 View Post
Yes looks like the hpfp,

Looks like he pulled the wrong tooth (pink panther, inspector clouseau)
Sounds good, only other question was in my Error memory I threw both 6292, and 6293 with the descriptions being the following.

6293:EKP engine: current too high
6292:EKP motor: voltage too low
This would have been good information. The issue could just be your EKP overheating. That's why the car is good to go again after waiting and it cools down.
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      09-21-2021, 01:28 PM   #8
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This sounds like a EKPM issue to me most likely overheating. You could replace the EKPM and have it coded to the car or you can try an "active cooling" solution that those of use who use upgraded walbro fuel pumps use.

Theres lots of threads here that can show you how to actively cool it.
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      09-21-2021, 06:46 PM   #9
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Thanks guys!
Definitely explained why the car might start after a around a minute or two. Today I did some logging to see when the car would shutoff and opened up my trunk to see if the EKPM would get hot. Around 20 - 25 minutes of decent driving and sure enough the car died, right after I went to my trunk to feel my EKPM and it was 100% hotter then when it was just idling but nothing too crazy in terms of temperatures. Weirdly enough it didn't start after 10 minutes and I went in and reset my fuel adaptations for the first time and started right up and haven't tried driving it since, mind you after the LPFP I also didn't reset adaptations. I also picked up these two codes.

29DC - cylinder injection shutdown(assuming there no fuel to the cylinders)
29F2 - high pressure fuel system, fuel pressure (also assuming the LPFP starved the HPFP of fuel)

Going to replace my fuel pump module and let you guys know.

Last edited by wholetthedogsout; 09-21-2021 at 07:34 PM..
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      09-21-2021, 07:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh View Post
This sounds like a EKPM issue to me most likely overheating. You could replace the EKPM and have it coded to the car or you can try an "active cooling" solution that those of use who use upgraded walbro fuel pumps use.

Theres lots of threads here that can show you how to actively cool it.
How difficult is it to be coded to the car?
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      09-21-2021, 10:15 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wholetthedogsout View Post
How difficult is it to be coded to the car?
The coding process is super easy assuming you have the software/computer to do it. Takes all of like 2-3 minutes at most.
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      09-29-2021, 09:37 PM   #12
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Hey everyone, just a little follow-up replaced the EKP3M module and the car is running great so far! Haven't had any stalls and fuel pressure actually increased from my logs. Ordered a new one off of eBay for $60 and didn't even need to be coded as I inputted my car, 100% beats the $600 charge from BMW!
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      01-27-2022, 03:24 PM   #13
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So aside from the car dying, what are some symptoms of a failing fuel pump whether it be a low Pressure or high pressure
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      01-27-2022, 06:07 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92kidd View Post
So aside from the car dying, what are some symptoms of a failing fuel pump whether it be a low Pressure or high pressure
A general health check may point you in the right direction. On 93 and WOT low pressure should be in the 60s or higher with a healthy LPFP and rail pressure should really be in the 2000s/high 1000s for a good HPFP
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      08-19-2023, 03:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wholetthedogsout View Post
Hey everyone, just a little follow-up replaced the EKP3M module and the car is running great so far! Haven't had any stalls and fuel pressure actually increased from my logs. Ordered a new one off of eBay for $60 and didn't even need to be coded as I inputted my car, 100% beats the $600 charge from BMW!
what was your lpfp before you changed the ekp? im having an issue just changed to a walboro stage 2 pump and did the diy to make it bucketless after low lpfp issues after the change first start was 72 psi and started dropping as the car warmed up to around 40 psi let it sit for 6 hours or so and its back in the 60s and 70s today was the worst it got down to around 12 psi hpfp pressures are normal 700 at idle any ideas anyone??
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