[Jason]

Click the following link for official instructions (in PDF) on installing Aluminum Pedals.

Aluminum Pedals Install Instructions

[CC 330i]

I wish I would have had these when I did the pedals! I wouldn't have used the wrong bolts on the accelerator pedal! Great work, thank you!

[ase2dais]

ref: http://www.my330i.com/mod5.php

ALUMINUM BMW PEDAL KIT
Completed 8/29/2001

DESCRIPTION
Install aluminum BMW pedals in manual transmission 330i.
PARTS NEEDED
1 - Aluminum BMW Pedal Kit
(CHAPMAN BMW $60 part #35 00 0 006 949)

TOOLS NEEDED
Safety Glasses
Power Drill
5/32" Drill Bit
#15 Torx driver
7mm Nut Driver or Wrench
Needle Nose Pliers

INSTALLATION
This modifcation seems pretty straight forward, but was really a pain in the ass. Also, since this kit was originally for a 323/328, it includes an accelerator pedal. Apparently, you removed the existing 323/328 accelerator pedal and, after attaching the aluminum pedal to the new one, snapped it in. You cannot remove the 330's accelerator pedal, so you won't need this extra part. Let's get started:

1. Remove the rubber pads from the clutch and brake pedal (just pull them off). You will notice that the brake pedal is metal, but the clutch and accelerator are plastic (Photo B).

2. The kit comes with paper templates, I chose not to use them. You can cut them out and tape them to the pedals to make installation easier I imagine. Using the paper template or the rubber pedal inserts as a guide, use the power drill with the 5/32" bit to drill the 4 holes through the clutch pedal.

3. Mate the rubber inserts and the aluminum pedal together for the clutch and attach using the supplied #15 Torx bolts and 7mm nuts. It might come in handy to use a 7mm nut driver or wrench to hold the nuts in place while you tighten the Torx bolts. Don't be afraid to tighten them good (Photo C).

4. Move on to the brake pedal. This one is the pain in the ass. Where the plastic pedals are a little forgiving in the exact placement of the holes, the metal brake pedal will not be. You MUST get the holes in the exact locations the first time. Boring the holes out or drilling new ones is not something you want to do (Photo D). Be sure to wear safety glasses here, a broken drill bit in the eye is not fun either.

5. Attach the aluminum brake pedal tight as well. That is the last pedal you want coming off when you need it the most. When done, move on to the accelerator.

6. At first, the accelerator looks too thick for the supplied bolts, but they are just long enough. Drill the holes using a template and attach the aluminum pedal. Here, I used the needle nose pliers to hold the nuts while I tightened the bolts.

7. Take your car for a spin, you will feel how much more grip these new aluminum pedals have (Photo E).

[angina]

nice!

[BMW0]

Thanks Jason for the DIY! Here's my partially completed pedal set. Ran out of time at the Auto Hobby Shop on base. Will post finished product pics Sorry for the messy interior

[fizzle]

[double35]

Thanks for the write up. I found the brake to be the easiest install. Be sure to use a hard bit like a titanium one to go through the steel. Man that dead pedal is a pain, not only to install but to also get the rubber backing through the aluminum. Maybe it's just the cold Chicago weather.

Also, use the smaller screws for the accelerator, not the bolt/nut combo.

[double35]

here's my install

[runnerx]

Installation is pretty easy once you realized you need to take the rubber cover off. The first set took me a little more than an hour to install, spent too much time trying to figure out why the screw isn't long enough (didn't know I have to remove the rubber cover on the brake and clutch). The second set took me only 15 mins

[cycler]

Looks great. I thnk I know what Ill be ordering next on my e92

[BudVlad]

Easy install thanks to the write up.

[akack79]

Great DIY. The brake pedal was a B**CH to drill into, defn make sure you get the Ti drill bit.

[CRZ410S]

What kid of drill bit do you use? Did you start the whole with a center drill or just drill with the drill bit?

[akack79]

Originally Posted by CRZ410S

What kid of drill bit do you use? Did you start the whole with a center drill or just drill with the drill bit?

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...aluminum+pedal

Here's a more detailed DIY. The key to drilling thru the steel brake is to drill a starter hole first. The accel pad is easy and no starter hole needed since its just plastic you are drilling thru. GL.

[CRZ410S]

Thanks. Can't wait for warmer weather to do the install. Where did you get the "M" pedals??

[akack79]

Originally Posted by CRZ410S

Thanks. Can't wait for warmer weather to do the install. Where did you get the "M" pedals??

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...egoryID=104047

[mvansb23]

question on the accelerator pedal. i used the bolts which were supplied by JBSpeed. They are too long and prevent the accelerator from being able to go all the way to the floor. I filed them down to the nut - but the thickness of the nut still impedes the accelerator. wondering if i am losing any power - the nuts are pretty thin - so its probably only an 1/8th of an inch. pretty annoying that these things are not shipped with the right parts. i noticed the loss of power with the bolts blocking the accelerator -but dont notice it now with them filed down. but just because i cant tell - does not convince me i am not losing power. the problem is that once you drill holes big enough for those bolts its too late for screws. so i am stuck with what i have - or i could use some epoxy and fix the pedal that way.

any thoughts??

[Cloud9blue]

are you able to hit the WOT (aka Engine Kickdown) click with the current setup?

Originally Posted by mvansb23

question on the accelerator pedal. i used the bolts which were supplied by JBSpeed. They are too long and prevent the accelerator from being able to go all the way to the floor. I filed them down to the nut - but the thickness of the nut still impedes the accelerator. wondering if i am losing any power - the nuts are pretty thin - so its probably only an 1/8th of an inch. pretty annoying that these things are not shipped with the right parts. i noticed the loss of power with the bolts blocking the accelerator -but dont notice it now with them filed down. but just because i cant tell - does not convince me i am not losing power. the problem is that once you drill holes big enough for those bolts its too late for screws. so i am stuck with what i have - or i could use some epoxy and fix the pedal that way.

any thoughts??

[mvansb23]

not sure what that is? only cutoff i am aware of is at redline or at 155mph?

how would i know i hit it? thanks for the help - much appreciated.

Originally Posted by AlpineCloud9

are you able to hit the WOT (aka Engine Kickdown) click with the current setup?

[mvansb23]

got it all figured out - thanks for the help everyone.

Originally Posted by mvansb23

not sure what that is? only cutoff i am aware of is at redline or at 155mph?

how would i know i hit it? thanks for the help - much appreciated.

[mvansb23]

has anyone done this install on an M3? the dead pedal is a lot different from the regular 3 series - wondering if i can just screw right into the dead pedal cover that is already there (the silver one with the oval shaped black plastic and M3 logo)

[mimiandi]

ordered these from ebay for 60$ total including shipping.

Everything except for break pedal is easy. As mentioned above break pedal is medal and it took a bit of effort to drill. I was not able to put bolts on the break pedal as it just wouldnt get tightened. screws are extra tightened to make sure the cover doesnt come off and seems to be ok.


pic from iphone.