[Processing61]

The joys of working on a 200k mile car.

I changed all the rear control arms and bushes a while ago and never got round to doing the drop links.

Today I decided to have a go. I’m used to working on this now (I.e rusty cruddy seized bolts, screws etc, it still never gets easier) so I was trying to be as careful as possible using lots of lube, heat and screwing anti-clockwise and clockwise while trying to get it off. On the 4th and final bolt/screw, it snapped. It was M8x50 bottom screw on the rear right which screws into the (hub?) assembly.

It’s just sticking out of the threaded hole, I’ve tried to get some good vice grips and did get a good hold on it but it’s still so tight in the hole.m so it just ends up spinning.

I was wondering if anyone had any advice on the best way to go about this, to get it out? There is no way I can go straight from the rhs as there is so much in the way, so I can’t drill it out or use an easy out. I can only go from the top. I guess I have the option of taking everything attached to the hub off and working on it like that but that’s a lot of work and I risk other things being seized/stuck.

Any advice is appreciated. TÍA.

[0l0dom0l0]

Easiest way to get that out would be to weld a nut on it.

[Processing61]

Originally Posted by 0l0dom0l0

Easiest way to get that out would be to weld a nut on it.

Good shout. I don’t actually have a welder but there has been a few times where it would have been handy to have one.

I think the screw is a 10.9 grade which says “Alloy steel, quenched and tempered” is there a particular budget welder that I would need for it to work? Also would a standard BZP nut work with the 10.9 screw/stud?

Had a quick read and it says to buy a bigger nut, so m10 (as screw is M8), put a washer behind nut so I don’t weld to the hub, fill the space with some welding wire (as more space due to bigger nut), weld it and fill. Does that sound about right?

Thanks

[Processing61]

I did see this at Screwfix

https://www.screwfix.com/p/impax-im-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Would that be suitable do you think?

[0l0dom0l0]

I'm actually in a similar position, I've thought to myself many times how handy it would be to have a welder so I'm afraid I'm not an expert.

However I have watched a fair few videos in preparation for the day when I need to weld a nut onto a broken bolt.

General process seems to be exactly as you've said, a slightly bigger nut with a washer behind it. Most people I see use a BZP nut, I'd guess that the weld just penetrates straight through the zinc plating without any drama.

The main take aways I've got is that it doesn't always work first go so don't give up, also there seems to be a knack to how much to let it all cool down. You want the bolt and weld to have cooled and shrunk, to break the rust but not so much that everything becomes tight again.

The welder you've linked to is an arc welder which I don't think you would find isbthe right kit for the job - you want a mig welder.

[Processing61]

Originally Posted by 0l0dom0l0

I'm actually in a similar position, I've thought to myself many times how handy it would be to have a welder so I'm afraid I'm not an expert.

However I have watched a fair few videos in preparation for the day when I need to weld a nut onto a broken bolt.

General process seems to be exactly as you've said, a slightly bigger nut with a washer behind it. Most people I see use a BZP nut, I'd guess that the weld just penetrates straight through the zinc plating without any drama.

The main take aways I've got is that it doesn't always work first go so don't give up, also there seems to be a knack to how much to let it all cool down. You want the bolt and weld to have cooled and shrunk, to break the rust but not so much that everything becomes tight again.

The welder you've linked to is an arc welder which I don't think you would find isbthe right kit for the job - you want a mig welder.

Thanks for the advice mate.

I took off a couple of components so there is more space to work but I’ve left it for now. Still need to decide if I’ll get a welder or not. From what I’ve looked at the arc welder should work, it’s just a bit more difficult than if it was a mig.

I’ll keep you posted when I next get a chance to work on it again

[Andystobbs]

Save the £85, don't buy the welder.

Take the hub off, take to local garage, pay £20 beer money and get hub back one hour later ready to refit.

If the bolt snapped its pretty tight, right?

If you think you're going to successfully weld a nut on, with no experience of welding at all, in an awkward place, not even in a downhand position, and the result be stronger than the original bolt you are in for a big surprise.

You'll wish you just took the hub off.

[Processing61]

Originally Posted by Andystobbs

Save the £85, don't buy the welder.

Take the hub off, take to local garage, pay £20 beer money and get hub back one hour later ready to refit.

If the bolt snapped its pretty tight, right?

If you think you're going to successfully weld a nut on, with no experience of welding at all, in an awkward place, not even in a downhand position, and the result be stronger than the original bolt you are in for a big surprise.

You'll wish you just took the hub off.

I like your honesty and I was thinking exactly that at first.

But from my understanding to take the rear hub off wouldn’t I need to remove the bearing and rear axle shaft? As that was what I was thinking (I could be wrong) and from what I could see on the car and read online, it can be a pretty hard job and often doesn’t go smoothly, so I was hoping to not have to do that.

What would be involved in taking the hub off? I’ve tried looking online but can’t find anything for removing the whole hub assembly, just mainly rear bearing changes.

[Andystobbs]

The bearing itself will stay in the hub. The drive shaft should come out of the hub, though they can get horrifically seized in place. If that was the case then then removing the driveshaft at the diff is 6 easy bolts and the whole lot can come off together.

[0l0dom0l0]

Another option is to get a mobile welder out to do it which saves the hassle of buying the welder/ taking the hub/ driveshafts off.

[Processing61]

Thanks guys. I’ll let you know what I try next

[Silver Streek]

Sorry for my ignorance I have never changed a rear drop link only the fronts on my E91. But you say you snapped the 4th bolt? I thought there were only 2 bolts, the top one which is the ball joint and the bottom one which is a through bolt, if it's the bottom one that snapped won't it just knock out, seeing as it's a through bolt?

I have a feeling I will need to change mine soon so keen to understand how to do it.

[Processing61]

Originally Posted by Silver Streek

Sorry for my ignorance I have never changed a rear drop link only the fronts on my E91. But you say you snapped the 4th bolt? I thought there were only 2 bolts, the top one which is the ball joint and the bottom one which is a through bolt, if it's the bottom one that snapped won't it just knock out, seeing as it's a through bolt?

I have a feeling I will need to change mine soon so keen to understand how to do it.

You are right. There are 2 each side, that’s why I said 4 (in total, both sides).

The top ball joint one goes through the rear stabiliser/anti roll bar and a nut is used, sometimes in the thread there is a cut out for a Allen key to stop the joint rotating while you undo the nut. Or you can just use some grips.

The bottom one which goes into the hub I guess is technically called a screw (m8x50ish). The hole it goes into is threaded so you can’t knock it out.

Dependant on how rusty/cruddy it is on your car you might need lots of lube and heat etc, be careful and hopefully you won’t break any of yours

This gives a good view

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by Andystobbs

Save the £85, don't buy the welder.

Take the hub off, take to local garage, pay £20 beer money and get hub back one hour later ready to refit.

If the bolt snapped its pretty tight, right?

If you think you're going to successfully weld a nut on, with no experience of welding at all, in an awkward place, not even in a downhand position, and the result be stronger than the original bolt you are in for a big surprise.

You'll wish you just took the hub off.

This.

Also an £85 welder is not going to be fun to use. Believe me, I've tried a few! Having a nice powerful welder with robust wire feed and proper gas supply makes a huge difference, especially for rubbish weldors like me.

[Silver Streek]

Originally Posted by Processing61

You are right. There are 2 each side, that’s why I said 4 (in total, both sides).

The bottom one which goes into the hub I guess is technically called a screw (m8x50ish). The hole it goes into is threaded so you can’t knock it out.

AHH ok now I understand, I didn't realise the bottom bolt screwed into the hub. Hate it when they do that, a through bolt is so much easier to deal with when the rusty bolt inevitably snaps.

I will make sure I really soak the bottom bolt bolt for a few weeks before I try and remove it.

Appreciate the clarification.

[Silver Streek]

Precessin61 you could always put the car back together and drive it to the garage and let them sort it for you if you are concerned about removing the drive shaft etc.

[Processing61]

Originally Posted by Silver Streek

Precessin61 you could always put the car back together and drive it to the garage and let them sort it for you if you are concerned about removing the drive shaft etc.

Yes a through bolt would be so much easier!

That’s is definitely another option. But I am a tryer (lol. So i’m going to have another look/go at it when I next get a chance, possibly this weekend

[Processing61]

Still haven’t had a chance to look at this again. Hopefully over the Christmas break I will, although it is getting mighty chilly. Luckily I don’t need to use the car at the moment.

I will update this thread though when I do

[Processing61]

Forgot to update this. So I tried with the stick welder but because it was in quite a tight space, I could only get the stick into the nut at quite an angle and it just wouldn’t work. I tried a few different settings on the stick welder. I could strike a weld but literally could only put heat in one small area in the nut and couldn’t move my hand to get the heat/arc anywhere else because of other things in the way. I could have taken the whole assembly off and worked on it on a bench, which would have been easier but I gave up by then and took it to a garage near me and they got it out. I was defeated this time

[Silver Streek]

At least you gave it a good try. Sometimes it's better admit defeat and let someone else do it that has all the tools and facilities.

[Processing61]

Originally Posted by Silver Streek

At least you gave it a good try. Sometimes it's better admit defeat and let someone else do it that has all the tools and facilities.

Very true!