[dailyis]

I have this weird windshield wiper problem. Long story short, they do not work. It’s raining in CA, I can’t really see. At all. Lol

- Replaced relay

- Replaced all fuses pertaining to the windshield wipers (there is 3?)

- Tried replacing windshield wiper motor, didn’t fix issue as the motor wasn’t even recieving power from the steering wheel switch with car IGNITION ON and OFF and IDLING

- Upon checking the wiring, réinstallation of the stabilization bars to the shock mounts smashed the wires, causing it to fray. Rewired it back up and tried to use, still didn’t work.

- Mechanic says it can be the clockspring.


Can it be the clockspring? how can you check? I have a multimeter. I do not know how to take off the steering wheel. I tried searching videos but they all show to stab a hole into the sides and lift a pin to release the airbag, which I am uncomfortable doing, I’m sure there is a different way. even in the videos, they make it look buttery smooth and easy but I tried doing it to a wheel at a junkyard and it was basically impossible for me, but all I was using was a long flathead.

There is no codes, no errors when activating the relay. The motor makes a noise as well (as it should) when trying to use the wipers.

[jsunma]

Oh my.

Word one...DO NOT proceed any further with attempting to remove your steering wheel. I think in this case you're just going to do more damage that is going to result in a car that's undrivable at any time...not just undrivable in the rain.

Second. Take a look at the sequence of events here as reported in your bulleted list and try to think this issue through logically versus randomly. Long story short, your last sentence in the post says that you can hear that the wiper motor is getting power (presumably when you activate the switch as that's the ONLY way you could possibly hear the motor engage). Further, you noted that you "smashed" the wiring and "rewired it". Logically, it seems that the "wipers not coming on" had something to do with severing those wires and you either partially fixed the broken wires and/or re-wired it improperly (probably more the former than the latter).

The clockspring likely has nothing to do with this...and I'm going to guess was advice offered by someone BEFORE you figured out the broken wires part.

I'd urge you to get ahold of a proper wiring diagram for your car and retrace your work with the "smashed" wires. Short of that, take the car into a mechanic who can deal with electrical issues and let him have at it. It'll be fixed soon I expect.

You're right to be wary of the airbag. Please - for your own safety - don't go messing with something like that unless you know what you're doing in advance.

Good luck. Take a breath. And proceed logically.

ps - If you post the year of your 335is, someone here may have a link to the wiring diagram.

[dailyis]

Originally Posted by jsunma

Oh my.

Word one...DO NOT proceed any further with attempting to remove your steering wheel. I think in this case you're just going to do more damage that is going to result in a car that's undrivable at any time...not just undrivable in the rain.

Second. Take a look at the sequence of events here as reported in your bulleted list and try to think this issue through logically versus randomly. Long story short, your last sentence in the post says that you can hear that the wiper motor is getting power (presumably when you activate the switch as that's the ONLY way you could possibly hear the motor engage). Further, you noted that you "smashed" the wiring and "rewired it". Logically, it seems that the "wipers not coming on" had something to do with severing those wires and you either partially fixed the broken wires and/or re-wired it improperly (probably more the former than the latter).

The clockspring likely has nothing to do with this...and I'm going to guess was advice offered by someone BEFORE you figured out the broken wires part.

I'd urge you to get ahold of a proper wiring diagram for your car and retrace your work with the "smashed" wires. Short of that, take the car into a mechanic who can deal with electrical issues and let him have at it. It'll be fixed soon I expect.

You're right to be wary of the airbag. Please - for your own safety - don't go messing with something like that unless you know what you're doing in advance.

Good luck. Take a breath. And proceed logically.

ps - If you post the year of your 335is, someone here may have a link [...]

Ok. I have a 2011 335is. The smashed/frayed wires were discovered AFTER the bars were removed to examine the motor and linkage. I spliced it back together one by one, color by color. I have a good feeling it’s the wiring; the linkage has seized or the motor. I’m going to try to give it power with just a battery (is that possible, will it cycle on its own?)

Yeah I don’t want to touch the wheel. I also don’t want to deal with the headache of replacing a clockspring and dealing with coding errors. Pretty much this issue happened out of nowhere with no codes or symptoms.

[Serf27]

Did you check the fuse after repairing the wires?
Did you replace the motor? And where did you get it from?
The motor could be bad if it’s making a noise. Hit it with a hammer and see if it frees up and starts working.

The steering wheel already has the holes in place.
They’re not really holes, just a small cut on the wheel that allows a screwdriver to slide in. Disconnect battery prior to removing air bag.
You need to watch a video on a sport steering wheel, release pins on sport and base wheels are different.

[dailyis]

Originally Posted by Serf27

Did you check the fuse after repairing the wires?
Did you replace the motor? And where did you get it from?
The motor could be bad if it’s making a noise. Hit it with a hammer and see if it frees up and starts working.

The steering wheel already has the holes in place.
They’re not really holes, just a small cut on the wheel that allows a screwdriver to slide in. Disconnect battery prior to removing air bag.
You need to watch a video on a sport steering wheel, release pins on sport and base wheels are different.

Tried replacing motor and it still wasn’t getting power. The fuses are not blowing. The relay does not click at all anymore (I have two relays) nor does the motor. I have a replacement ordered off of rockauto with ultra power branding. It wasn’t getting power either. How can I test if the relay or the fuse is getting power or not? I tried testing with a multimeter (AC and DC current) and nothing shows up. Does the car have to be on?

[Serf27]

In accessory mode or engine on for the wipers to work.

[dailyis]

Originally Posted by Serf27

In accessory mode or engine on for the wipers to work.

Yeah I got the ignition on. It doesn’t read anything in either of the holes and the 30 amp fuse. Ami doing it wrong? I tried using the wipers and just holding the red pick to number 1 on the relay and the black pick on a random screw to ground.

[Serf27]

Originally Posted by dailyis

Yeah I got the ignition on. It doesn’t read anything in either of the holes and the 30 amp fuse. Ami doing it wrong? I tried using the wipers and just holding the red pick to number 1 on the relay and the black pick on a random screw to ground.

Do you have a scan tool? I think you can command the wipers to work with some scanners. This would verify power is being sent, but the clock spring isn’t the one sending power.

[dailyis]

Originally Posted by Serf27

Do you have a scan tool? I think you can command the wipers to work with some scanners. This would verify power is being sent, but the clock spring isn’t the one sending power.

All I have is protools on android tablet.

[Serf27]

Originally Posted by dailyis

All I have is protools on android tablet.

Check in the jbbf section of the app to see if there a function that can control and turn on the wipers.

[dailyis]

Originally Posted by Serf27

Check in the jbbf section of the app to see if there a function that can control and turn on the wipers.

This is everything that came up

[dailyis]

Originally Posted by dailyis

This is everything that came up

when I activate wiper stage 1, clicks. When I activate wiper stage 2, there is a click. (In the relay)

[ptpending]

you need to clear wiper errors and check wiring from jbe to relay and from realy to wiper motor
if all that will not help you need to replace JBE

[dailyis]

Originally Posted by ptpending

you need to clear wiper errors and check wiring from jbe to relay and from realy to wiper motor
if all that will not help you need to replace JBE

How can I check the wiring from JBE to relay? It’s all the way in the back of the glove box. The wiring from the JBE to the motor I’m going to recheck tomorrow cause I lost my e20 socket. Or whatever size the strut bar bolt is

[Serf27]

Originally Posted by dailyis

when I activate wiper stage 1, clicks. When I activate wiper stage 2, there is a click. (In the relay)

So power is going to the relay?
Check wiring continuity between relay and wiper motor.
What wires those are, I’m not sure.

[dailyis]

Originally Posted by Serf27

So power is going to the relay?
Check wiring continuity between relay and wiper motor.
What wires those are, I’m not sure.

I’ll check tomorrow. It’s cold as hell outside lol and I don’t have the right size socket for the strut bar bolts

[Serf27]

11mm 6 point socket works on strut tower bolt.
14mm 6 point socket works on firewall bolt.

[dailyis]

Originally Posted by Serf27

11mm 6 point socket works on strut tower bolt.
14mm 6 point socket works on firewall bolt.

Really? It won’t strip the sides? That’s what I fear.

[Serf27]

Have not stripped any of mine. Usually only do this when I can’t find the e torx socket.

[dailyis]

Originally Posted by Serf27

Have not stripped any of mine. Usually only do this when I can’t find the e torx socket.

Well, just tried, that thing is torqued on there good. Can’t get it off 🤣

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by dailyis

How can I check the wiring from JBE to relay? It’s all the way in the back of the glove box. The wiring from the JBE to the motor I’m going to recheck tomorrow cause I lost my e20 socket. Or whatever size the strut bar bolt is

ok, got you
but then you can test from other side, connect RMS tester to motor connector pins and activate wipers from diagnostic software and check RMS display, if voltage spikes are coming to motor

[dailyis]

Originally Posted by ptpending

ok, got you
but then you can test from other side, connect RMS tester to motor connector pins and activate wipers from diagnostic software and check RMS display, if voltage spikes are coming to motor

I’ll check tomorrow. I don’t have the alligator clips and I also don’t have the right socket size