[iqraceworks]

I've got a dead cylinder in my 335i, and the motor needs to come out for repair. I've got a 2-post lift, and also an engine hoist. I have several options as far as how I'm able to get it out.

For those of you they have done this....is there any advantage to pulling it out from the top vs. dropping it out from the bottom?

What's the easiest way to do it...and why??

Thanks!

[2one3E90]

Bottom is easier because you dont have to shimmy it out from the top and hit things like the radiator or intercooler and other hoses.
But that just means you have to bring out the subframe and steering rack and lines.

[oVeRdOsE.]

depends if you want to remove and refresh few front stuff in the mean time.

a/c is a pain since you should empty it properly.

the 3rd way is from the front, and this is the way I go since I remove all the cooling system. and I dont have a 6' lift not a engine hoist.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

depends if you want to remove and refresh few front stuff in the mean time.

a/c is a pain since you should empty it properly.

the 3rd way is from the front, and this is the way I go since I remove all the cooling system. and I dont have a 6' lift not a engine hoist.

Is there a way where I can just remove the AC compressor from the engine, and then not have to open up the system and remove the lines?

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

Is there a way where I can just remove the AC compressor from the engine, and then not have to open up the system and remove the lines?

Yes that’s completely possible. It makes I much easier if you remove from the bottom and not the top in this case. Just bungee cord it off to the side.

I recently pulled a motor through the front with the entire front end disassembled. I’d only recommend this if you are trying to replace a bunch of that stuff.

Otherwise, out the bottom is wayyyyyy easier with a lift. Drop the trans, subframe and suspension with it. Easy peasy.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Yes that’s completely possible. It makes I much easier if you remove from the bottom and not the top in this case. Just bungee cord it off to the side.

I recently pulled a motor through the front with the entire front end disassembled. I’d only recommend this if you are trying to replace a bunch of that stuff.

Otherwise, out the bottom is wayyyyyy easier with a lift. Drop the trans, subframe and suspension with it. Easy peasy.

Yep, I think that's the way I'm going to do it. I think I just need to remove the exhaust, unbolt the driveshaft and trans mount, unbolt the upper shock mounts, steering rack, take the brake calipers off, remove all of the coolant, fuel, and wiring lines....and drop the subframe down with motor and transmission attached.

Right?

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Yes that’s completely possible. It makes I much easier if you remove from the bottom and not the top in this case. Just bungee cord it off to the side.

I recently pulled a motor through the front with the entire front end disassembled. I’d only recommend this if you are trying to replace a bunch of that stuff.

Otherwise, out the bottom is wayyyyyy easier with a lift. Drop the trans, subframe and suspension with it. Easy peasy.

agree, a L6 will be way easier by the bottom for sure, especially for a rwd

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

Yep, I think that's the way I'm going to do it. I think I just need to remove the exhaust, unbolt the driveshaft and trans mount, unbolt the upper shock mounts, steering rack, take the brake calipers off, remove all of the coolant, fuel, and wiring lines....and drop the subframe down with motor and transmission attached.

Right?

there's a lot of DIY thread and youtube video.

They dont show you everything , but gives you an idea.

Also be careful, those thread will waid this is a 3 days job.

Those kind of stuff can turn into 6 months.

This is acutally my plan, I planned 6-8 months to complete my swap in my e91.

Step 1 is done ! The garage is clean, parts received and car is in the garage.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

agree, a L6 will be way easier by the bottom for sure, especially for a rwd



there's a lot of DIY thread and youtube video.

They dont show you everything , but gives you an idea.

Also be careful, those thread will waid this is a 3 days job.

Those kind of stuff can turn into 6 months.

This is acutally my plan, I planned 6-8 months to complete my swap in my e91.

Step 1 is done ! The garage is clean, parts received and car is in the garage.

Yeah, I'm sure it's not going to be a 2hr job, but I bet I can get it knocked out pretty fast....or at least get the engine out fast. Having a 2-post lift, a shop with lots of room, and plenty of air tools seems to help.

I just wish this happened at the end of summer, not right in the middle. I was looking forward to putting some miles on the car this summer

[oVeRdOsE.]

yolo

[Cloverdale]

I would think even a complete rebuild with block requiring removal to a machine shop would be less work via piece by piece disassembly starting at the top and finally pulling the block through the top. Can your dead cylinder issue not be remedied with engine remaining in place?

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

Yep, I think that's the way I'm going to do it. I think I just need to remove the exhaust, unbolt the driveshaft and trans mount, unbolt the upper shock mounts, steering rack, take the brake calipers off, remove all of the coolant, fuel, and wiring lines....and drop the subframe down with motor and transmission attached.

Right?

Yep. Disassembly is the easy/fast part. Could def get it out in a day with a helper or maybe solo. Just go slow when raising the car up from the motor. Worth it to have an extra eye.

It’s the goin back together that’s the time consuming part. Fake lots of pics and videos!

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by Cloverdale

I would think even a complete rebuild with block requiring removal to a machine shop would be less work via piece by piece disassembly starting at the top and finally pulling the block through the top. Can your dead cylinder issue not be remedied with engine remaining in place?

I'm debating on trying this. I put my bore scope down into the dead cylinder, and the cylinder walls look great. No scoring, no marking, nothing.

I guess I could go ahead and leave the engine in the car, pull the cylinder head and oil pan off, and pull the bad piston out the top and just replace it with a new one. Not sure how much of a pain that would be doing it in the car vs. just dropping the entire motor and transmission out the bottom so that I've got easier access to everything.

[Jros]

recently pulled my N52B25 motor and manual transmission together from the front, which is fairly fast and easy way to do it. Replaced with an N52B30.

Entire engine and transmission swap took me 3 week ends, counting all the miscellaneous correlated work.

[iqraceworks]

Yeah, the more I'm looking at it...I think I might just pull it from the top/front. It looks easier than messing with the subframe, and front suspension, steering.....

Taking the front end off it pretty quick and easy.

[Serf27]

Removing the front end and pulling the engine/trans forward/up isn’t bad, but you deal with tilting of the engine/trans.

The subframe removal way also isn’t bad, a lot easier with the front end remove as well.

You unbolt everything needed. Misc bolts and hoses, lower the car on the lift, place jacks under the subframe and trans, unbolt the subframe and trans mount bolts and raise the car. Make sure the wheels are straight when removing and the steering wheel isn’t moved while the engine is out.

I’ve never removed the AC compressor on an e90, it seems easier to remove the refrigerant and unbolt the lines and refill the system later.
Can definitely be done in half a day with a helper and power tools. Install takes a bit longer.

[M-technik-3]

I've done many e36's remove the front end and slide out engine and transmission. E90 can't be any harder if rwd. That was my plan if I find a decent N54/6spd manual donor but I have a 6 spd donor for the n52 now so debating starting my swap. I would not attempt to pull head off a n54/5 in the engine bay.

[iqraceworks]

If I could find a decent deal on a used N54 I would go that route....but for the price of a nice used N54, I can pull mine out and do new bearings, and forged pistons for much less and have a motor that should eat another ring.

[iqraceworks]

Well, I’m finally making some headway on this project. I’m about half way through the “jerking the engine out” process. So far it’s not been all that bad…..just trying to keep track of all of the hardware and wiring, and where it all goes.

It really helps labeling things and bagging up all the nuts and bolts.
I’ve watched a few videos, and it looks like the motor should be able to come out without taking the front off of the car…..straight out the top. This is what I’m shooting for, we’ll see how easy it is. I’m planning on leaving the transmission on the car, that should make things a little easier I hope.

[oVeRdOsE.]

actually I was surprised how not much stuff need to be disconnected to remove the engine. Yes I've labelled the stuff, but most of fits in 1 spot anyway.

If you have the space and the engine hoist, I think it's a good solution. However, the trans bolt can be hard to get.

I,ve decided to roll the engine out, was pretty easy, and removing the front took about 1 hour and saved me 2h of fcking around.

[iqraceworks]

I’ve got the car on a 2 post lift so I can raise and lower it really easily. I’ve also got a transmission jack that should help with dropping the transmission down a little bit in order to get to all of the bellhousing bolts. From the videos I’ve seen online, it’s totally doable to get it out without having to take the whole front end off…..but if I start struggling with getting it out, I may go ahead and do that anyway.

All I have left do to now is get up under the bottom of the car and remove the engine mount bolts, downpipes, and a few online lines that are mounted to the oil pan.

Can I get the motor out of the car without pulling the downpipes off of the turbos?

[oVeRdOsE.]

good question the way you do.

I did leave turbos and downpipes, and by chance, because OEM turbos are pain to remove when no space.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by 2one3E90

Bottom is easier because you dont have to shimmy it out from the top and hit things like the radiator or intercooler and other hoses.
But that just means you have to bring out the subframe and steering rack and lines.

I have the fan and intercooler removed...and honestly, there is quite a bit of room now in front of the engine. I thought about dropping it out the bottom, subframe and all.....but between the steering, suspension, and brake lines.....pulling it out the top looked much easier.