[greye93]

I just did some maintenance my 2011 E90 328i, and now it cranks but wont start.

Battery was unplugged during entire process. (and has 11.7v in battery)
When I put it back together it started at first, but ran REALLY rough. Shaking heavily. Now it wont start at all.

VCG
MAP sensor
MAF Sensor
Coolant flush / Two line replacements
Oil Change
Oil filter housing gasket and sensor
New crankcase breather hose
New intake manifold gaskets


Im pulling these codes:

2A3F
2A77
2A31
2A32
2A80
2A85
2E98
2E85
2EA1
29D0
2AE0
2D2A
2A38

I'm not sure why something like this would cause all these errors. Please any advise would be much appreciated as this is my daily and need to get it back on the road asap.

Thank you all!

[Mike K]

Got the Vanos electricals plugged in the right way around?

[greye93]

Originally Posted by Mike K

Got the Vanos electricals plugged in the right way around?

I believe so, but not totally sure.

Does this seem like the only cause.

Its just strange since it fired up the first time, then it had major problems afterwards.

[mainbearing]

Also check the ESS sensor connector.

When you removed the Valvetronic motor, did you go through process of turning the gear to full stop before backing out and later installing the motor?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by greye93

I just did some maintenance my 2011 E90 328i, and now it cranks but wont start...
When I put it back together it started at first, but ran REALLY rough. Shaking heavily. Now it wont start at all...
2A3F
2A77
2A31
2A32
2A80
2A85
2E98
2E85
2EA1
29D0
2AE0
2D2A
2A38

See attached ISTA ScreenPrints of Fault Code Definitions. Since most folks disconnect connectors between DME & Engine
Harness to remove Valve Cover, the FIRST thing to check is ANY such connectors YOU Dis-connected. This is particularly true if
engine started, but ran rough, shaking heavily, and NOW it won't start at all. I also wonder if you now have additional DME
Fault Codes, as generally VVT & VANOS fault codes do NOT prevent N52 engine from starting.
George

[greye93]

Originally Posted by mainbearing

Also check the ESS sensor connector.

When you removed the Valvetronic motor, did you go through process of turning the gear to full stop before backing out and later installing the motor?

No, for some reason when I loosened the bolts it just came off.

Definitely a mistake looking back at it.

Maybe Ill replace the ess sensor, sucks ill have to take off the valve cover again.

Any idea what it might be?

[greye93]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

See attached ISTA ScreenPrints of Fault Code Definitions. Since most folks disconnect connectors between DME & Engine
Harness to remove Valve Cover, the FIRST thing to check is ANY such connectors YOU Dis-connected. This is particularly true if
engine started, but ran rough, shaking heavily, and NOW it won't start at all. I also wonder if you now have additional DME
Fault Codes, as generally VVT & VANOS fault codes do NOT prevent N52 engine from starting.
George

I appreciate this.

I double checked all electrical connections and all seem to be right (unplugged and plugged back in all). I cleared the codes and the only one coming back is 2D2a. Yet I havent started the car since the battery is starting to tank from all the attempted starts and no alternator running. Its on a trickle charger now.

Plus I put a brand new diff pressure sensor, and yet that code is still coming up.

Any other thoughts it might be?

[greye93]

The other thing i'm wondering is, could it be a bad alternator. I had the code for missing alternator, could that cause the crank no start?

- It did start the first time, not the second.
- It also did get pressured washed when the car was unplugged, but dried for 3 days before plugged in.

[greye93]

Also to add, when I tried starting the car flickers like crazy and dosent start. Not sure what that means.

[mainbearing]

The 2D2A code is for the MAP sensor on the manifold. It might not be connected or a break in the wires. Check those.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1735485

You should make sure the battery is charged back up. When the voltage is low, the ECU does all kinds of weird things. You might not have any problem at all, maybe just low voltage. Therefore no need to remove the valve cover until you checked other electrical things first.

If you do now have oil in the eccentric shaft sensor connector, and the connector is tight, then do not worry about it now. Fix the MAF problem and code first.

Oil in the ESS connector:

[mainbearing]

Also, 0:50 into the video shows how you turn the rotor shaft to remove the valvetronic motor. If the rotor position is wrong because of it, then a scan tool can be used to reset it. Others will know know how to use a scan tool to do that.

MAP sensor:

[greye93]

I appreciate this.

Strange thing is the MAP sensor is brand new and seems to be connected.

From what I can readily see there is no problems with the wires.

[mainbearing]

I would charge up the battery and see. Low voltage causes all kinds of weird problems on these cars.

[greye93]

Ok, I left it plugged in nearly 24 hours and played around with it a little.

It started!! I just had to keep cranking and press the gas at the same time.

Only issue is that map sensor. Codes 2D28 AND 2D2A, wont go away. But its a brand new map sensor.

Also a water pump code keeps coming up, but I think thats just because of a pretty bad coolant leek there is. Whats your thoughts on that?

[bigrock07]

Did you figure out the solution to this?