[alpinec1984]

My 2006 330i filled up with smoke after start and during warm-up. Son wisely turned it off and fled the scene. I went to my local dealer to make sure the blower motor recall was completed - it was in 2020 along with the airbag. PCV valve recall has not been completed.

Here is the interesting part - the dealer claims that the blower motor recall work "is only good for two years" i.e. if it smoked out in the exact same fashion as the recall - a fire or near fire/melting of the harness next to the regulator - I'm on the hook for it. Now this being a safety recall, I was under the impression that BMW is on the hook for this issue for the life of the car.

Anyone else deal with this? I don't want to tear into it to see for fear of compromising the "evidence". I opened a case with BMW mostly because I want a ruling on who pays if the blower wiring flamed out. Have not heard back yet.

[tsuintx]

Originally Posted by alpinec1984

Here is the interesting part - the dealer claims that the blower motor recall work "is only good for two years" i.e. if it smoked out in the exact same fashion as the recall - a fire or near fire/melting of the harness next to the regulator - I'm on the hook for it. Now this being a safety recall, I was under the impression that BMW is on the hook for this issue for the life of the car.

The recall never expires. However, I don't think the repair itself is warrantied for life and will be subject to standard warranty terms. Anything in the receipt you received when the recall was performed?

Good luck!

[alpinec1984]

does anyone know for sure if you can observe the damage if the PCV heater has started to melt/short? I know it is behind the alternator/under the intake more or less. Part of my issue is that it has been balls cold here and driving potential flamethrower into my garage seems like a bad idea. I may elect to at least disassemble enough to view the blower motor to rule that issue in or out. Burn-y electrical smells and smoke are hard to locate.

[ctuna]

Blower motor wiring on the 06.
A lot of the 07 had a problem with the main power cable to the cabin
fuse box but my 06 didn't have a recall for that.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by alpinec1984

2006 330i filled up with smoke after start and during warm-up... went to my local dealer to make sure the blower motor recall was completed - it was in 2020 along with the airbag. PCV valve recall has not been completed. [See Below]...

Originally Posted by alpinec1984

does anyone know for sure if you can observe the damage if the PCV heater has started to melt/short?...

I would suggest that YOU examine the vehicle yourself, as described below, BEFORE taking it to a Dealer or driving it. I attach the RCRITs for THREE (3) Recalls that MAY be related to the smoke issue: 2 for the Breather Heater under the intake manifold (2017 & 2022), & ONE for the Blower Harness. ISTA wiring diagrams, component locations & connector views for 2006 330i are attached to NEXT Post.

I would want to know WHERE the smoke originated:
1) Under the Hood (from the Breather Heater under intake Manifold)?
2) Under the Glovebox, inside the passenger compartment (from Blower Harness Connector at Blower/Resistor)?
3) From some other location/component?

The thing to remember here:
Turning Ignition OFF will NOT immediately shut off Power Supply to EITHER the Blower Connector OR the Breather Heater.
You must rather disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal, or pull the fuse supplying the Component. Fuse F04 (10A) in E-box, which may blow/have blown, if Breather Heater short-circuits. The Blower supply is via fuse F67 (50A), on the JB Fuse Panel beneath the Glovebox.

Please read ALL this Post BEFORE turning Ignition ON. I would suggest examining the Blower Connector for melted wiring insulation/plastic BEFORE turning Ignition ON. Hence the Blower Harness/Connector examination is addressed FIRST, even though the Breather Heater is a likely cause of the smoke.

I. Blower Harness:
Since Opening E-box to access F04 requires more effort, & should NOT be done unnecessarily (water ingress), it is suggested you EXAMINE the Blower Harness Connector FIRST. Although some contortion is required, if you move passenger seat rearward fully, remove the Trim Panel above passenger footwell/ below Glovebox, you can NOW view/ EXAMINE the Blower Connector (diagram attached to NEXT Post).

Note that the Red/Blue 12V+ wire from F67, & Brown Chassis Ground wire are NEXT to each other, Sockets 1 & 2 on X18722 Connector. It is common for insulation/plastic MELTING to occur there, & if that has occurred, check fuse F67 & REMOVE that fuse if Connector X18722 is damaged. The 2017 Recall, 17V676, RCRIT shows Procedure at pages 6-10 of RCRIT.

After Removal of fuse F67, you will no longer have Blower operation, but no fire risk from short at X18722.

II. Breather Heater:
1) Per the ISTA SSP for fuse F04 (in the E-box), the components supplied by that fuse are the Four (4) O2 Sensor Heaters & the Breather Heater located under the Intake Manifold. Hopefully if there was a LOT of smoke, fuse F04 BLEW. If that occurred, you now have Fault Codes for all 4 O2 Sensor Heaters (2C9C/D/E/F), since they are supplied by same fuse as Breather Heater. Unfortunately, you have to turn Ignition ON to read DME Fault Codes, & IF there is a short & F04 has NOT blown, you must be ready to QUICKLY pull F04 or disconnect Battery Negative Terminal when you turn ignition ON.

2) There are 2 recalls for Breather Heater:
a) 2017 Recall, 17V683, provided for REPLACEMENT of the Breather Heater, per pages 7-10 of attached pdf/RCRIT;
b) 2022 Recall, 22V119, provided for isolating the Orange wire going to the Breather heater & installing INLINE FUSE for that component, per page 13 of pdf/RCRIT;
OF COURSE, if the Breather Heater has shorted out, that must be Disconnected/Replaced as well. I don't know what effect lack of breather heater would have on cold weather operation if that is NOT functioning.

3) Since fuse F04 for Breather Heater is powered by the DME Main Relay, Terminal 87, that relay continues to supply power to F04 for several minutes AFTER Ignition OFF/ Key Removal. Think Coolant Pump/ E-Fan operation after Ignition OFF to cool Hot Engine, & DMTL function.

Please let us know what you find, or if any questions.
George

[gbalthrop]

ISTA ScreenPrints related to Prior Post, 2006 330i, US.
George

[alpinec1984]

Thanks for the extensive reply. I had already more or less decided to proceed as you suggest

1. examine hvac blower for signs of connector issue (recall was completed prior in 2020)

if ok

2) see what I can see in vicinity of the PCV heater elbow although visibility of the device is very limited. I have mirrors etc that may give a view. I don't know how this heater should ohm out if normal, that would give ability to troubleshoot it from the box by pulling the relay IF it's isolated from the O2 heaters

My son says the smoke seemed to be more under the hood than in the car although significant invaded the car as it would with a hood full of smoke. It may have been stinky for days prior but my son can't smell anything - his sense of smell pretty much does not exist.

If the HVAC inspection looks OK I am inclined to disable the PCV heater by fuse pulling and/or relay pulling, then if no fires break out drive it the 1 mile to the dealer and get the PCV recalls completed. I suspect they may find meltage/damage down there possibly singing the nylon intake. That's what it smelled like and I have worked for 20 years in plastic compounding.

[alpinec1984]

and yes I started getting intermittent O2 heater CEL a couple months ago, planned to replace the upstreams when my garage rises above 30F

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by alpinec1984

... hvac blower... recall was completed prior in 2020;... PCV...heater should ohm out if normal, that would give ability to troubleshoot it from the box by pulling the relay IF it's isolated from the O2 heaters [NO relay & wired in Parallel with O2 Heaters per wiring diagrams & Breather Heater RCRIT (2022).]
My son says the smoke seemed to be more under the hood than in the car...

Based on the NEW information above, particularly that the smoke seemed to originate under Hood, here's what I would suggest:

1) BEFORE examining Blower Harness Connector, remove Upper & Lower Microfilter Housings to enable access to E-box; please let us know if you need ISTA Procedure for that, or anything below.

2) Remove E-box cover, identify Fuse Carrier for fuses F01-F05; REMOVE fuse F04 & examine to see if blown; it SHOULD be 10A fuse.

3) Using a Multimeter, FIRST measure VOLTAGE (in reference to chassis ground) at each of 2 fuse sockets (F04 Removed). This is to make sure there is no battery voltage on EITHER socket.

4) Using Multimeter, if NO Voltage at either socket, and with IGNITION OFF, Measure Ohms/Resistance in reference to chassis ground at EACH socket. Measure the resistance in the socket going TO the O2 Sensor Heaters & Breather Heater (all 5 components wired in parallel).

5) IF LESS than 1.2 Ohms (R=E/I; 12V/10A=1.2 Ohms) the Breather Heater is the likely suspect. If you are able to disconnect the 2-socket connector (X65390) from the Breather Heater, measure the resistance at F04 fuse socket AGAIN, & if significantly > 1.2 Ohm, it is safe to insert another 10A fuse in F04 socket. You should NOW have proper O2 Heater function.

If any of above does NOT go as suggested, please advise.
George

[alpinec1984]

since it is so easy, I examined the HVAC fan wiring first. It is totally clean - no signs of trouble, no local smells. On to the E-box. I have been in there before to diagnose a no-crank, so shouldn't be too bad.

[alpinec1984]

OK in the e-box, not sure I grok the F04 location - if it is the 5 fuse box I pulled the lid and there are 5 fuses, from driver's side 30/30/20/30/30 amp - all test good, there is no 10 amp fuse therein.

[alpinec1984]

OK I found a diagram, I was in the right place. I found a pre-2007 diagram that shows the same amperage fuses I observed (30A for 4 O2 heaters+PCV heater), but I am unsure which direction to count and there are no markings I can see. The fuse is 30A in both the 2nd and 4th slots no matter which direction you count and both test good.

[alpinec1984]

I managed to examine the PCV heater pretty closely and there is no evidence of overheating at all, it looks good. I also ran the car for 30+ minutes and it ran normally, no smoke and nothing to see. All of the fuses in the e-box were good, and I shot both 30A fuse holders and nothing grounded, in fact nothing at all - I believe there must be a downstream relay as you can read nothing off the fuse holder legs.

The only thing slightly off is I am reading about 14.85V when running - which strikes me as high. The only thing that smells like the smoke is the alternator area, and only slightly. It did not heat up abnormally. No smoke. I ran long enough for the electric fan to kick it, no issues there.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by alpinec1984

... The only thing slightly off is I am reading about 14.85V when running - which strikes me as high. [That's OK; "Over-voltage" is defined as > 16.0V] The only thing that smells like the smoke is the alternator area, and only slightly. It did not heat up abnormally. No smoke. I ran long enough for the electric fan to kick it, no issues there.

Fault Codes? FF Data for any DME or IHKA Faults?
George

[alpinec1984]

Ok I finally got the balls up to drive it, fire extinguisher in hand. Immediately apparent is that the power steering is gone, completely. No issues before, no sounds, no squeals, but absolutely no power assist. The accessory belt appears to be functioning normally, it's definitely spinning and alternator is working fine. AC works fine. If ps pump is locked up I find it hard to believe that the belt would not immediately start smoking up and squealing. I do not have active assist. The best I can come up with is - the ps pump grenaded and sometimes spins free but makes no pressure, and sometimes locks and makes no pressure and you get the smoke theatrics. I have not seen the smoke theatrics personally yet.

[alpinec1984]

to close this out, PS pump replaced, accessory belt replaced, tensioner replaced and all is good. The confusing thing here is the pump would only lock when it was very cold / on start-up and immobile so initially the lack of PS was not detected until things got worse. Surprising the belt would smoke but not squeal, and this car leaks zero oil.