[vrokselgja]

Currently trying to fix crank but no start issues on 2008 e90 316i
While digging through forums and diagrams im being told that the main dme relay is supposed to be in engine bay. However after checking ista diagrams for my specific model it shows that the relay is located in the glove box

However on my car there is an empty slot at the place where the diagram shows the k6300 is supposed to be and there is a space for 3 pins rather than 4 pin relay that is normally on bmw

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by vrokselgja

Currently trying to fix crank but no start issues on 2008 e90 316i... on my car there is an empty slot at the place where the diagram shows the k6300 is supposed to be and there is a space for 3 pins rather than 4 pin relay that is normally on bmw...

When requesting help, posting your Last-7 Characters of VIN allows us to determine (using ISTA) your vehicle's engine, transmission, etc. In your case we can't tell if your 2008 316i has N43 or N45 engine.

Attached to NEXT Post are ISTA SSP wiring diagrams & component locations for 2008 E90 316i N43 MT. If you have "Crank, NO Start", the 1st things to check, using ISTA (see attached pdf, "Fault Memory & Test Plan"):
1) Control Unit Tree; look to see if "DME" is Red (NOT communicating), or Yellow (Fault Code(s) present);
2) Fault Memory (Select "Display fault memory" at bottom-right of Tree screen);
3) Save ScreenPrints of BOTH of those ISTA screens & POST them here (per page 9 of pdf);
4) You can proceed further on your own, while awaiting Forum Help, by connecting to DME (IF communicating) & viewing/saving Fault Details for each DME or EKPS Fault;
5) You can then use "Test Plan" to get "guided" diagnosis of each fault.

It's NOT clear from your initial post, whether you have ISTA (appears you may), or how much experience you have using it. Assuming you have ISTA, try the steps above & post ScreenPrints as suggested.

As of 3/1/2007, the JB Fuse Panel, shown in your photo, was changed, & the K6300 DME Main Relay was no longer in the E-Box under the hood. It is soldered to the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) of the JB (Junction Box) at the area you show in upper-right of JB Panel. It is NOT a removable relay like the "KL30G" relay below it. The soldered K6300 relay RARELY fails. Rather the Ground Signal Activation of that relay, or corroded wiring/Connector or broken DME Pin is more likely.

Here are some initial tests you can do using a simple ($10 US) Multimeter:
1) Check for Battery Voltage at F4 Fuse Socket & F4 Intact; Red 10A fuse shown on top-left row in your photo;
2) Test for Battery Voltage at F39, Ignition ON; If NONE & fuse is intact:
3) Apply Chassis Ground, with jumper wire, Back-Probed to X11010/4 at upper-left of JB Panel. That's the Red/Black wire at Socket #4 of X11010 Connector. When you apply a ground to X11010/4 (Ignition OFF), you should HEAR a click from the upper-right of the JB Panel, where K6300 is located.
4) Try Starting NOW, with that jumper applied & turning Ignition ON.

Please let us know what you find in those tests. That does NOT "FIX" the problem, but is designed to IDENTIFY the problem. Do NOT leave the jumper ground connected, as that will run your battery down.
George

[gbalthrop]

Attached are ISTA ScreenPrints related to prior post, 2008 E90 316i N43.
George

[vrokselgja]

Thanks for replying.
The last 7 characters of vin are A564038 , its an n43
Currently unable to scan codes using ista due to not having laptop but a friend connected a different tool and it showed these codes

1) Voltage at f4 is same as battery.
2) voltage at f39, f37 and f38 is around 2.65 volts.
3) I assume you meant grounding pin 1 on X11010 connector? Because pin 4 is unused and the diagrams show that pin 1 is supplying ground to the relay. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Thanks again.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by vrokselgja

... The last 7 characters of vin are A564038 , its an n43...
2) voltage at f39, f37 and f38 is around 2.65 volts.
3) I assume you meant grounding pin 1 on X11010 connector?...

Sorry, I looked at X11001 to left of X11010 on diagram. YES, X11010/1, the RED/GRAY wire, is the K6300 Relay Electromagnet ground (your Thread is aptly-named ;-). The two DME codes, 2ACB & 2ACC suggest that the K6300 Relay is NOT getting that ground signal, due to:
1) broken pin, corrosion, etc. at X11010/1, or
2) at the DME X60005/13, or
3) at X6011/5 in the E-Box.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[vrokselgja]

Did couple tests. Grounding the x11010/1 does nothing as far as i can tell.
Measured the voltage at x60005/13 and it's only 8.5 volts. Is the dme itself not giving good ground signal for the relay?
Also still confused about 2.6 volts at f37-f39.

[vrokselgja]

Fixed one problem.
On junction circuit board there was no continuity between x11010/1 pad and relay coil. Had to solder a wire as shown in picture
(Note that wire is not soldered in this picture, just showing to give general idea of how it should look)

The relay now clicks, theres voltage in f37-f39 and car almost starts but something is still missing. Will have to check what codes its throwing now once i get diagnostics.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by vrokselgja

Fixed one problem. On junction circuit board there was no continuity between x11010/1 pad and relay coil. Had to solder a wire as shown in picture... The relay now clicks, there's voltage in f37-f39 and car almost starts but something is still missing. Will have to check what codes it's throwing now once i get diagnostics.

Great job, testing the JB PCB (Printed Circuit Board)! Was the PCB "Line" between the two points connected by the wire actually "OPEN", or was it just a matter of reflowing the solder at one of the Pins? I've seen solder cracks at relay pins that just need the solder "ReFlowed" to re-establish continuity.

When you get any DME or EKPS Faults, after "Crank, NO Start", please let us know what those are, & if you have ISTA/INPA.
George

[ptpending]

the much more wise idea is simply get junction box from junkyards and swap it
you only need to know that you need it from car after 2007/09 man date and if your car is with navi or telematics, this will lead to version with bistable relay and ibs sensor
there many of the on junkyards because they are not failing so often

[vrokselgja]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Was the PCB "Line" between the two points connected by the wire actually "OPEN", or was it just a matter of reflowing the solder at one of the Pins? I've seen solder cracks at relay pins that just need the solder "ReFlowed" to re-establish continuity.

Not sure. There was continuity between x11010/1 pin and its pad but no continuity between x11010/1 and relay pad so i assume the line on circuit board was open.
Now it’s only giving one code. 2a99 crankshaft - exhaust camshaft reference. The engine won’t start. Not sure how to proceed with this. Not using ISTA yet