[hailed_335]

I was out one night and rolled my window down and hurd a knocking noise, I turned the car off right away and havnt started it since, I started tearing down the bottom end to check the rod bearing, now that ive got to them I need help identifying weather my rod bearings have been wore down to failure and could cause a knock or not, i would really appreciate the help, i left somepictures if there any other inf neededolease let me know,
the car is a n54 all stock with 121,000 miles on it, I changed the hpfp and replaced most of the vacuum lines, i also changed th intake and exhaust vanos solenoid due to codes for those at around 110,000 miles, i put the codes i got on nov
28th and when i hurd the knock and towed it homeit was dec 17th

Id really appreciate the help and advice thank youu

[lookalikehuuh]

None of those look falied to me, I assume the small metal debris is from the removal process... that being said are you sure the sound was coming from the bottom end? I would even venture to say those rod bearings look quite good with barely any wear. Except for the scratches on a few.

Have you taken out the oil filter and opened it up to see if there is any metal in the oil filter? I would have probably started with that step first.

Pictures of the crank journals could also be useful.

Some early cars have issues with the hydraulic lifters, and at times the HPFP can have a fairly pronounced ticking noise that commiserates with engine RPM. Both of these can be fairly loud and sound like rod knock. Do you have a sound or video clip of the sound before you disassembled?

[hailed_335]

I did take out the oil filter and i did not see any large metal particles, when draining the oil i did notice some metal but it wasn’t visible on camera, i do not have any videos or sound sadly, i didnt want to dtart the car again and caue more damage amd i didnt even think about having that for help, i can get some pictures of the crank journals and possibly a picture of the filter if its still laying around, while i was looking at the journals they looked in good condition no scoring or dents, i do have some experience with dealing with spun rod bearing but their on semi trucks since im a diesel mechanic, im not sure if that would make a different in the way a failed bearing could look like due to load on engine. I did replace the hpfp but it was not a new hpfp is was a used due to the car going into limp mode, so i replace the pump after takingit to someone to diag it and that still didnt fix the issue so i kept my old pump assuming its still good.

[hailed_335]

I forgot to add these images of the topside of the bearing of number 3, and 4, i didnt hae time to do the other and i can only really work on thisproject around once or twice every week

[Cmanns05]

Codes dont suggest it either.
Vanos and 3100 go together. Clean and swap the solenoids to see if that shifts intake/exhaust.
The plausibility is the EKP increased current draw, no worries there. You can run the bimmergeeks script to help.

The cylinder one im not familiar with though.

[hailed_335]

Hello, I have a new quesion and cant find a way to make a new post.

I just performed my rod bearings an as i was putting my oil pump back on i tightned a bolt and a piece of plastic fell down from the tensioner. I would have to pull my crank hub but i cant really afford to replace the whole timing chain unit and all the other parts along with it.

My question is can lossen tension and remove the crank hub replace my oil pump chain assembly, im sure i need to replace the hub seal but i just cant afford the timing tooling and chain assembly at the moment. I know i need to replace the crank hub bolt as well.

[onebluemcm]

You will lose timing by pulling the crank hub and will have to retime it. Any way to tell if this plastic is a vital piece of the timing set or just a side piece? Unless it has structurally degraded the timing chain guide, the most important thing is you got the piece and it didn't get sucked up into the oil pick up.

Either way, tough spot. You will not be this close to the timing set again. But you will have to retime it, means renting or buying a timing kit plus the timing set, gaskets...it's always a can of worms.

BTW, sorry to say it, but the rod bearings look pretty dang good for the mileage, really. It's a good sign that it hasn't had oil starvation in the past. Begs the question, what may have been knocking.

[hailed_335]

So iwouldnt be able to lossen the timing chanin and hold everything together where it is, and replace the oil pump chain guide assembly without replacing the timing chaning, i know i should but i dont have the money for the oarts or tools or for someone else to do it and i really needd it back runningfo at least alittle bit

[Gizm0]

Originally Posted by hailed_335

So iwouldnt be able to lossen the timing chanin and hold everything together where it is, and replace the oil pump chain guide assembly without replacing the timing chaning, i know i should but i dont have the money for the oarts or tools or for someone else to do it and i really needd it back runningfo at least alittle bit

Pics of the plastic part would help