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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > Notes on a 2010 328i with Stereo (6-speaker) system install



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      05-25-2012, 06:03 AM   #1
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Notes on a 2010 328i with Stereo (6-speaker) system install

Customer wants his Stereo system to be real and not a Mickey Mouse system. So everything got to go...

- JBL MS-8
- JL Audio XD200/2
- DLS R4 component set
- Vibe Slick 4 V3
- Earthquake SWS-8Xi
- jtsrerri SWS spacers
- OEM center speaker trim
- OEM HK tweeter pods
- Technic Stereo and custom front/rear/center/underseat/MS-8 harnesses -110% PnP

Here we go...


Front OEM mid replacement with R4 component set and OEM HK tweeter pods:






Center speaker addition with OEM center trim and OEM cabling/connectors:




Rear OEM mid replacement with Slick coaxial (PnP):


OEM woofer replacement with SWS-8Xi, jtsherri spacers and 6-ch woofer add-on harness to the Stereo system (woofer wires to the trunk and woofer connector jumpers):


Stereo harness install with transfer of the MOST connector:




Trunk install of the MS-8 (powers the front/rear/center) and XD200/2 (powers the SWS-8Xi), all pre-wired for PnP:




Notes:

1) This was a 12 hour install in 2 days as all the pre-wiring was crimped/soldered and prepared before the actual install.

2) As many times posted in this forum, even changing the front OEM mids for components makes the Stereo system sounds better. Changing all the speakers, adding a center, MS-8 and separate amplification for the underseat makes this system sounds better, cleaner and louder than the OEM HK system.

3) The MS-8 power output seems again to be much stronger than the 18W RMS stated in its specs. It drives both the R4 and the Slicks with authority and cleaniness up to the 35 click mark of the OEM HU volume. Tuned for extra midbass and silk tweeters set to 0dB at the crossover, the R4 are punchy and crisp without any harshness. The Slick as center speaker is the most effective upgrade for the $35 or so a pair. Loud and clear as a center and just right as surround effect rear speakers.

The selection of the SWS-8Xi/XD200/2 was simply as no dedicated sub was to be installed. There is no comparison between the OEM woofers and this. Finally bass and sub-bass is heard and felt, clean, loud and tight.

4) All this system was tuned by the MS-8 multitude of settings, EQ and adjustments. OEM HU EQ curved was flattened by input setup and then calibrated to -25db for a nice sound from the very first time. Then adjustments to the sub, bass and midbass levels (as in more) were performed as customer's request as everything else sounded just right.

Overall result is night to day.
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      05-25-2012, 07:30 AM   #2
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Nice Install!

Without a sub, did you have do adjust the mid bass gain or was your mid bass adjustment just to suit customer's taste.
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      05-25-2012, 07:38 AM   #3
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Thanks as always for sharing. Your builds have helped influence my own.
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      05-25-2012, 09:59 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taibanl View Post
Nice Install!

Without a sub, did you have do adjust the mid bass gain or was your mid bass adjustment just to suit customer's taste.
I only adjusted the mid bass and the sub levels in the MS-8 at customer's request. 31-band EQ was kept flat; any further adjustments are to be done via the OEM HU bass and treble levels.
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      05-25-2012, 02:13 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic
Quote:
Originally Posted by taibanl View Post
Nice Install!

Without a sub, did you have do adjust the mid bass gain or was your mid bass adjustment just to suit customer's taste.
I only adjusted the mid bass and the sub levels in the MS-8 at customer's request. 31-band EQ was kept flat; any further adjustments are to be done via the OEM HU bass and treble levels.
i always assumed that the OEM bass/treble control were to be left in the centre? is it better to use them rather than the ms-8 31 band eq?
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      05-25-2012, 02:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mob17 View Post
i always assumed that the OEM bass/treble control were to be left in the centre? is it better to use them rather than the ms-8 31 band eq?
The OEM HU bass/treble can be adjusted from center after the MS-8 input setup/acoustic calibration.
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      05-25-2012, 09:58 PM   #7
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Looks awesome ( wouldnt expect anything less )

Whats all of that huge harness behind the radio for? Im assuming this is not HiFi but a non amped setup?

Any pics of the DLS poking thru the door before the grill was re-attached or does it just go in thru the top and rest on the panel before being dynamatted?

Has to sound awesome!! ( cant wait to do mine ).
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      05-26-2012, 06:27 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QUiKSR20 View Post
Looks awesome ( wouldnt expect anything less )

Whats all of that huge harness behind the radio for? Im assuming this is not HiFi but a non amped setup?
This was a Stereo (6-speaker, no OEM amp) system.

Quote:
Any pics of the DLS poking thru the door before the grill was re-attached or does it just go in thru the top and rest on the panel before being dynamatted?

Has to sound awesome!! ( cant wait to do mine ).
As explained before, the R4 are inserted into the OEM grill. There's no other way of installing these mids in a Sedan if the OEM grill is to be retained.
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      05-26-2012, 08:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
As explained before, the R4 are inserted into the OEM grill. There's no other way of installing these mids in a Sedan if the OEM grill is to be retained.
Ill just have to see when I do it, Just getting a mental pic of the surround of the speaker butted up against the metal and damaging the speaker but when I do it maybe it will make more sense.
I know it goes in through the top and then the grill is re-attached.. Then I just turn the door panel upside down and let the speaker fall towards the grill on its own and just dynamatt in place as it sits?

I know its probaly something the most basic thing sorry Never done it.

Just trying to see how much it falls into the grill... Like do you push it by hand into the grill x amount of mm and then secure or simply turn upside down and where it lands it lands and just apply the dynamatt.
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      05-26-2012, 09:14 AM   #10
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Have you gone to visit Don yet?
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      05-26-2012, 09:31 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QUiKSR20 View Post
Ill just have to see when I do it, Just getting a mental pic of the surround of the speaker butted up against the metal and damaging the speaker but when I do it maybe it will make more sense.
I know it goes in through the top and then the grill is re-attached.. Then I just turn the door panel upside down and let the speaker fall towards the grill on its own and just dynamatt in place as it sits?

I know its probaly something the most basic thing sorry Never done it.

Just trying to see how much it falls into the grill... Like do you push it by hand into the grill x amount of mm and then secure or simply turn upside down and where it lands it lands and just apply the dynamatt.
No, the OEM grill stays put on the door panel and the speaker is inserted into it until it does not go any further. Then secured with Dynamat.

All these installs work better -from the point of view of anybody interested in doing the same- when you disassembly your own car. It does not work just by looking at photos... you have to try on your own.

That's the way I learned to do this, by working on my own cars, breaking my own clips, damaging my own grills and then looking for the P/N to replace my broken dreams.
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      05-26-2012, 09:49 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
No, the OEM grill stays put on the door panel and the speaker is inserted into it until it does not go any further. Then secured with Dynamat.

All these installs work better -from the point of view of anybody interested in doing the same- when you disassembly your own car. It does not work just by looking at photos... you have to try on your own.

That's the way I learned to do this, by working on my own cars, breaking my own clips, damaging my own grills and then looking for the P/N to replace my broken dreams.
I know and agree 100% ( been working on cars for years so I def agree with you... Learn by doing. ) but its tru like you said..
In person shown once I would probably be like ( thats it? hahah ) Sweet Now I finally get it! For some reason I didn't think even
with mounting tabs it fit through the door panel...

Easy peasy now hahah Thanks and Enjoy the nice weekend!
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      05-30-2012, 12:50 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taibanl View Post
Have you gone to visit Don yet?
I have not, I will be sure to contact him though... Been so busy with my newborn and getting the final pieces to my audio build. ( just need the MS8 ) and its install time.

The only thing I wont have is a trunk sub + amp which can be added later.
Ill have R4's / 424 Center / MS8 for a few.
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      05-30-2012, 02:59 AM   #14
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I wish Technic lived in the Bay Area.
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      05-30-2012, 04:44 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yo-Hi.Red.Devil View Post
I wish Technic lived in the Bay Area.
I wish that Technic lived in the Bay Area as well.

I went there 18 months ago and it is fantastic...
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      05-30-2012, 12:08 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
I wish that Technic lived in the Bay Area as well.

I went there 18 months ago and it is fantastic...
Awesome weather there, Hey Technic Any places online you can recommend or do you sell m/f connectors so I can make my Tweeters to Door Panel wiring have a nice quick disconnect like below ?

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      05-31-2012, 04:10 PM   #17
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Im not sure where in america you can get them, but i just used male and female bullet connectors from www.caraudiodirect.co.uk. You can probably get them from most electrical/diy stores
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      05-31-2012, 04:13 PM   #18
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awesome job. i am jealous!!
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      05-31-2012, 04:21 PM   #19
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what is a ball-park cost of a major upgrade like this?
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      05-31-2012, 04:43 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mob17 View Post
Im not sure where in america you can get them, but i just used male and female bullet connectors from www.caraudiodirect.co.uk. You can probably get them from most electrical/diy stores
Thanks Mob!
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      05-31-2012, 07:05 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x97Melbourne View Post
what is a ball-park cost of a major upgrade like this?
~$1900 or so, including labor.
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      07-06-2012, 06:11 PM   #22
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Quick question, do the DLS R4 tweeters pop into the stock tweeter mounting tabs in the sails, or is some modification necessary?
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