DIY E90 N54 Valve Cover Gasket

robc1976 · 11-27-2012, 11:26 PM

Seems this DIY has never been done but it needs to be. It's really not that hard and the dealer charges $1000+ to do this. Ridiculous.

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your car following this tutorial. Worked perfectly for mine so it should for yours as well.

**Before you begin - DISCONNECT BATTERY! You'll be messing with electricity and fuel - not fun!**

Some have stated the 26 bolts need to be replace, some say it is not necessary. BMW stated it is not a common practice, only if a problem is noticed and 99% of the time it is not needed.

Here are the part#'s (thanks to user "joe-" for part#'s):

7544369 bolts x 26
11127565286 gasket
11127548063 bolts x 3
11127556977 bolts x 2

Torque specs: 7-7.4 lbs

Pic of new Valve Cover Gasket:

Remove passenger Side Cross Bar:

Remove Coils:

Remove O2 Sensors:

Remove clips on Fuel Rail to get access to bolts:

...and remove bolts:

...and remove Fuel Line Fitting (HIGHLY suggest doing this with a cool motor to avoid pressure release issues):

...and take Sensor off end of Fuel Rail:

Remove vaccum lines off of Booster Line:

Remove the six (6) connectors on Fuel Injectors, three (3) nuts & wires on Ground Posts with wires, lastly remove three (3) Ground Posts:

You do NOT need an extra long socket to get Ground Posts out - simply put socket on Ground Post and then socket/rachet halfway in socket hole:

Pry open tab CAREFULLY to get connectors off Fuel Injectors:

Remove fittings on all six (6) Fuel Injectors and remove entire Fuel Rail:

Remove Wire Holder connected to valve cover (by this point all wires, connectors, etc should be disconnected) - Note the blue-headed that BMW says need to be replaced. I disagree

Remove Positive Battery Terminal:

Valve Cover should be able to come off now. Use a putty knife and seperate Valve Cover from Head - do NOT force it or you could crack it. Also, don't gouge the head with any tool you use. I was able to get it loose by just lossening one side:

Cool pics of motor with Valve Cover off - look at that sexy motor LOL:

Get all Gasket material off of Valve Cover and Motor, being careful not to let anything fall into Motor. As you can see below, there's no way this old Valve Cover Gasket was sealing! Had a talk with Rob Beck today regarding
this and the gasket not sealing can cause a lot more issues than one might think. The head breathes into the Valve Cover. If the gasket is leaking, it pressurizes your crank case and can cause issues with Turbos, etc. I'll let Rob chime in and elaborate on this.

Clean surface on Motor of all Gasket material - Very important! If you leave it dirty, you will be sorry:

This picture illustrates where the Head breathes into the Valve Cover - have to give Rob Beck credit for this, I had no idea! LOL:

Clean out debris here (I found a bunch of burnt June Bugs in mine! LOL):

New Valve Cover Gasket installed - just push it on:

Insert Spark Plug Guides into Valve Cover before installing it on motor:

Installing Tips:

Really couldn't get pics of this. It's easiest with another pair of hands. Move everything out of the way, the ECU wires go behind Valve Cover easily. Take care not to scrape the Gasket so it falls out. It's really not that
difficult - took my wife and I about two minutes to install.
When putting in bolts, torque down to only 7lbs of torque. Anymore and you will strip the head. Do a bolt pattern - front to back, etc. There's a larger bolt that goes in the right front corner and one that goes in the left
rear corner (as you're looking at the car):

TIP: When installing the Fuel Rail, install the bolts first - before you start any fittings otherwise you may strip a bolt hole in the head, like I did (I retapped them easily but much easier if you just don't strip them LOL).

I'd like to send out BIG thanks to Rob Beck for his tips on this job. I appreciate it, man!

Robc

eloo · 11-28-2012, 12:41 AM

Excellent write up Robc! How many miles did you get out of the last one?

robc1976 · 11-28-2012, 12:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eli_335i

Excellent write up Robc! How many miles did you get out of the last one?

around 97,000...way to long though...that gasket has been bad way before that. It was like candy (brittle).

eloo · 11-28-2012, 12:55 AM

That straight six is basically pornographic material

Thanks for the level of details. I'm at 56K and no signs of leak yet, but you made it look easy!

robc1976 · 11-28-2012, 01:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eloo

That straight six is basically pornographic material

Thanks for the level of details. I'm at 56K and no signs of leak yet, but you made it look easy!

It is actually not that bad of a job, not messy...$36.00 for a gasket. Worst part was cleaning the heads gasket surface.

robc1976 · 11-28-2012, 07:27 AM

If someone is doing the tutorial or just know this answer it would be greatly appreciated!

I forgot wich line goes where (dont think it matters), does the top line on the booster goe to Vaccum canister #1 or #2? I am pretty sure top goes to cannister #1 but would like confirmation.

robc1976 · 11-28-2012, 07:57 AM

Bolt pattern for tightening I used, I snugged them all then went back and torqued to spec

Joe- · 11-29-2012, 01:34 AM

You didn't replace the screws? BMW recommends replacement of the screws, claims you will be replacing the gasket again later on with the screws because the screws will loosen and cause leak. What was Rob Becks Recommendation on this?

robc1976 · 11-29-2012, 02:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe-

You didn't replace the screws? BMW recommends replacement of the screws, claims you will be replacing the gasket again later on with the screws because the screws will loosen and cause leak. What was Rob Becks Recommendation on this?

Don't see that happening, unless you damage them. BMW master teck said the same. Said he only replaces screws if they are damaged. You have to figure, these are but in with only 7-7.5 lbs of torque...only way they can really come loose is if the threads are damaged. My dealer didn't even carry them, they are included with a new valve cover and so is the gasket.

None of my bolts where painted "blue" wich indicated a replacement bolt except the ones holding the wire holder oddly enough.

Joe- · 11-29-2012, 03:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robc1976

Don't see that happening, unless you damage them. BMW master teck said the same. Said he only replaces screws if they are damaged. You have to figure, these are but in with only 7-7.5 lbs of torque...only way they can really come loose is if the threads are damaged. My dealer didn't even carry them, they are included with a new valve cover and so is the gasket.

None of my bolts where painted "blue" wich indicated a replacement bolt except the ones holding the wire holder oddly enough.

Odd, according to Jason over at getbmwparts.com:

Quote:

me: Hi jason, can you help me out, why is the 335i Valve cover gasket set so freakin expensive? what are the part#'s included in the packaging
12:25 PM
Jason: here are the part #'s we include in our kit:

11127544369 bolts x 26

11127565286 gasket

11127548063 bolts x 3

and 11127556977 bolts x 2

me: o.O it's just odd that bolts cost that much cause the gasket itself is like 30 bucks

Jason: yeah
12:26 PM
unfortunately, that's wha tyou're going to need

to change the gasket

me: is it a requirement to replace the bolts

Jason: yes

otherwise, you'll be doing the gasket again soon

Joe- · 11-29-2012, 03:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robc1976

Don't see that happening, unless you damage them. BMW master teck said the same. Said he only replaces screws if they are damaged. You have to figure, these are but in with only 7-7.5 lbs of torque...only way they can really come loose is if the threads are damaged. My dealer didn't even carry them, they are included with a new valve cover and so is the gasket.

None of my bolts where painted "blue" wich indicated a replacement bolt except the ones holding the wire holder oddly enough.

Can you post the Torque specs also for the screws.

robc1976 · 11-29-2012, 03:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe-

Odd, according to Jason over at getbmwparts.com:

tht is odd? If it leaks (don't see that happening) I will replace them, my buddy did his 2 years ago and no issues yet....will investigate this farther though.

robc1976 · 11-29-2012, 03:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe-

Can you post the Torque specs also for the screws.

i have seen (2 ) torque specs posted (7.4 & 8.5)..I went with a tad over 7lbs...over tightening is a sure way to run into problems and get a leak.

robc1976 · 11-29-2012, 02:31 PM

Added a disclaimer that as a preventive you may want to replace bolts, thanks "joe-"" for part#'s.

Also added torque specs!

robc1976 · 11-29-2012, 04:34 PM

Use Valvoline chlorine free parts cleaner applied to the rag (to take gasket off) not the surface, dont want to much parts cleaner in the motor LOL!!

kfrazie1 · 12-01-2012, 09:52 AM

wow thanks for this! nice job. what was total time to complete the job?

robc1976 · 12-01-2012, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kfrazie1

wow thanks for this! nice job. what was total time to complete the job?

i finished it in about 3 1/2 hours!

robc1976 · 12-06-2012, 02:49 PM

Want to add also, wjen doing this be sure the motor is cool (Mine sat over night) because when hot the aluminium bolts are hot thery are softer and wilkl break easier

Lilbro · 12-09-2012, 01:56 AM

Anybody know the torque setting for the fuel rail fittings?

bv1 · 12-30-2012, 08:36 AM

Excellent DIY, much appreciated. Did mine yesterday with this guide.

The only deviation I had was one step, which was to remove the PCV connection on the valve cover. I didn't see it mentioned above but it is a very minor step.. Also, I chose to use permatex high tack gasket adhesive to glue the gasket to the valve cover to make for an easy install.

robc1976 · 12-30-2012, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bv1

Excellent DIY, much appreciated. Did mine yesterday with this guide.

The only deviation I had was one step, which was to remove the PCV connection on the valve cover. I didn't see it mentioned above but it is a very minor step.. Also, I chose to use permatex high tack gasket adhesive to glue the gasket to the valve cover to make for an easy install.

Very good point actually, I have a occ so I just removed the hose and not he check valve. I thought about using a gasket sealer but did not want to clog the tiny air ways in the head.

Tonkatruck · 02-20-2013, 11:16 PM

Why do you need to insert spark plug guides before installing the valve cover?

I want to thank you for this DIY as it's helped me tremendously.

11-27-2012, 11:26 PM	#1
robc1976 DIYER 591 Rep 5,521 Posts Drives: E90 335i Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Illinois iTrader: (14)	DIY E90 N54 Valve Cover Gasket Seems this DIY has never been done but it needs to be. It's really not that hard and the dealer charges $1000+ to do this. Ridiculous. Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your car following this tutorial. Worked perfectly for mine so it should for yours as well. Before you begin - DISCONNECT BATTERY! You'll be messing with electricity and fuel - not fun! Some have stated the 26 bolts need to be replace, some say it is not necessary. BMW stated it is not a common practice, only if a problem is noticed and 99% of the time it is not needed. Here are the part#'s (thanks to user "joe-" for part#'s): 7544369 bolts x 26 11127565286 gasket 11127548063 bolts x 3 11127556977 bolts x 2 Torque specs: 7-7.4 lbs Pic of new Valve Cover Gasket: Remove passenger Side Cross Bar: Remove Coils: Remove O2 Sensors: Remove clips on Fuel Rail to get access to bolts: ...and remove bolts: ...and remove Fuel Line Fitting (HIGHLY suggest doing this with a cool motor to avoid pressure release issues): ...and take Sensor off end of Fuel Rail: Remove vaccum lines off of Booster Line: Remove the six (6) connectors on Fuel Injectors, three (3) nuts & wires on Ground Posts with wires, lastly remove three (3) Ground Posts: You do NOT need an extra long socket to get Ground Posts out - simply put socket on Ground Post and then socket/rachet halfway in socket hole: Pry open tab CAREFULLY to get connectors off Fuel Injectors: Remove fittings on all six (6) Fuel Injectors and remove entire Fuel Rail: Remove Wire Holder connected to valve cover (by this point all wires, connectors, etc should be disconnected) - Note the blue-headed that BMW says need to be replaced. I disagree Remove Positive Battery Terminal: Valve Cover should be able to come off now. Use a putty knife and seperate Valve Cover from Head - do NOT force it or you could crack it. Also, don't gouge the head with any tool you use. I was able to get it loose by just lossening one side: Cool pics of motor with Valve Cover off - look at that sexy motor LOL: Get all Gasket material off of Valve Cover and Motor, being careful not to let anything fall into Motor. As you can see below, there's no way this old Valve Cover Gasket was sealing! Had a talk with Rob Beck today regarding this and the gasket not sealing can cause a lot more issues than one might think. The head breathes into the Valve Cover. If the gasket is leaking, it pressurizes your crank case and can cause issues with Turbos, etc. I'll let Rob chime in and elaborate on this. Clean surface on Motor of all Gasket material - Very important! If you leave it dirty, you will be sorry: This picture illustrates where the Head breathes into the Valve Cover - have to give Rob Beck credit for this, I had no idea! LOL: Clean out debris here (I found a bunch of burnt June Bugs in mine! LOL): New Valve Cover Gasket installed - just push it on: Insert Spark Plug Guides into Valve Cover before installing it on motor: Installing Tips: Really couldn't get pics of this. It's easiest with another pair of hands. Move everything out of the way, the ECU wires go behind Valve Cover easily. Take care not to scrape the Gasket so it falls out. It's really not that difficult - took my wife and I about two minutes to install. When putting in bolts, torque down to only 7lbs of torque. Anymore and you will strip the head. Do a bolt pattern - front to back, etc. There's a larger bolt that goes in the right front corner and one that goes in the left rear corner (as you're looking at the car): TIP: When installing the Fuel Rail, install the bolts first - before you start any fittings otherwise you may strip a bolt hole in the head, like I did (I retapped them easily but much easier if you just don't strip them LOL). I'd like to send out BIG thanks to Rob Beck for his tips on this job. I appreciate it, man! Robc __________________ JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295 Last edited by robc1976; 11-29-2012 at 02:35 PM..
	Appreciate 9 Rizzo-leone2.50 feuer4241.50 CantComplain115.50 Bimmer 808170.00 SGMDream7.50 alexristainoN5415.00 =C=67.50 Mosaud19983509.00 Gregrobin548.00 Tweet Quote

11-28-2012, 12:55 AM	#4
eloo Enlisted Member 3 Rep 48 Posts Drives: 2007 BMW 335i Coupe (Stock) Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: San Diego, CA iTrader: (0)	That straight six is basically pornographic material Thanks for the level of details. I'm at 56K and no signs of leak yet, but you made it look easy!
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-28-2012, 07:27 AM	#6
robc1976 DIYER 591 Rep 5,521 Posts Drives: E90 335i Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Illinois iTrader: (14)	If someone is doing the tutorial or just know this answer it would be greatly appreciated! I forgot wich line goes where (dont think it matters), does the top line on the booster goe to Vaccum canister #1 or #2? I am pretty sure top goes to cannister #1 but would like confirmation. __________________ JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-28-2012, 07:57 AM	#7
robc1976 DIYER 591 Rep 5,521 Posts Drives: E90 335i Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Illinois iTrader: (14)	Bolt pattern for tightening I used, I snugged them all then went back and torqued to spec __________________ JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-29-2012, 01:34 AM	#8
Joe- Lieutenant 15 Rep 522 Posts Drives: 07 E92 335i Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Greenwich CT iTrader: (2)	You didn't replace the screws? BMW recommends replacement of the screws, claims you will be replacing the gasket again later on with the screws because the screws will loosen and cause leak. What was Rob Becks Recommendation on this?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-28-2012, 12:41 AM	#2
eloo Enlisted Member 3 Rep 48 Posts Drives: 2007 BMW 335i Coupe (Stock) Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: San Diego, CA iTrader: (0)	Excellent write up Robc! How many miles did you get out of the last one?
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11-29-2012, 02:31 PM	#14
robc1976 DIYER 591 Rep 5,521 Posts Drives: E90 335i Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Illinois iTrader: (14)	Added a disclaimer that as a preventive you may want to replace bolts, thanks "joe-"" for part#'s. Also added torque specs! __________________ JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295 Last edited by robc1976; 11-29-2012 at 02:36 PM..
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11-29-2012, 04:34 PM	#15
robc1976 DIYER 591 Rep 5,521 Posts Drives: E90 335i Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Illinois iTrader: (14)	Use Valvoline chlorine free parts cleaner applied to the rag (to take gasket off) not the surface, dont want to much parts cleaner in the motor LOL!! __________________ JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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12-01-2012, 09:52 AM	#16
kfrazie1 Lieutenant 60 Rep 553 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: NY iTrader: (4)	wow thanks for this! nice job. what was total time to complete the job? __________________ Montego Blue E90 335i 7" VRSF IC \| OFT Tune \| DCI \| RB PCV \| Secondary CAT Delete & CYBA 3.75" Tips \| M3 Front \| Mtech Rear \| CSL Trunk \| 219M \| KW V1 \| AA CP
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12-06-2012, 02:49 PM	#18
robc1976 DIYER 591 Rep 5,521 Posts Drives: E90 335i Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Illinois iTrader: (14)	Want to add also, wjen doing this be sure the motor is cool (Mine sat over night) because when hot the aluminium bolts are hot thery are softer and wilkl break easier __________________ JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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12-09-2012, 01:56 AM	#19
Lilbro Second Lieutenant 17 Rep 250 Posts Drives: BMW 335i Join Date: May 2012 Location: Houston iTrader: (13)	Anybody know the torque setting for the fuel rail fittings?
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12-30-2012, 08:36 AM	#20
bv1 Private First Class 6 Rep 169 Posts Drives: 335i Coupe AT Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Toronto iTrader: (0)	Excellent DIY, much appreciated. Did mine yesterday with this guide. The only deviation I had was one step, which was to remove the PCV connection on the valve cover. I didn't see it mentioned above but it is a very minor step.. Also, I chose to use permatex high tack gasket adhesive to glue the gasket to the valve cover to make for an easy install. __________________ \|Cobb AP / JB4 \| DCI \| BMS WW Meth Kit \| AMS FMIC \| Macht Schnell 3" DP \|
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02-20-2013, 11:16 PM	#22
Tonkatruck New Member 3 Rep 25 Posts Drives: 07 335i E90 Alpine on tan Join Date: May 2012 Location: Herriman UT iTrader: (0)	Why do you need to insert spark plug guides before installing the valve cover? I want to thank you for this DIY as it's helped me tremendously.
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