[miringrains]

My m3 bump stops came in, what is the labor involved in installing them? How much should it cost?

[gtaccord]

The rears are easy. Should only take about 10 or 15 mins per side. The fronts will be more involved. I could see a shop charging around 2 hrs labor for this.

[raceyBMW]

Like said above, the fronts are a pain because you have to compress the springs, drop the assembly from the shock tower, and remove the top mount to get tho them.

[500e]

I just got some eibach for My 08 335xi sedan what bump stops are recommended for that set up with oe shocks. And where can I order them from. thanks

[fdawg4l]

Originally Posted by raceyBMW

Like said above, the fronts are a pain because you have to compress the springs, drop the assembly from the shock tower, and remove the top mount to get tho them.

It's not that simple if you have an OEM sport suspension. The brake lines will keep you from pulling the shock tower out without hitting your fender (and scratching up your paint). I had to undo the knuckle completely from the control arms and guide rod so I could use a floor jack to move the whole assembly around easier. Removing the lock-nut from the damper spindle to get the top-hat off is an exercise in frustration. The knuckle with shock tower and brakes probably weighs as much as I do, so be ready for some close calls.

I don't know about non-sport so I can't comment. Good luck.

[thecadman99]

Don't let anyone fool you- the rears are easy to get to, but you must be sure to mark all your bolts before you loosen anything. You can seriously throw your car out of whack if you don't put all your adjustments back where they were.
Even then, its a good idea to get an alignment.

ECS has an excellent video that covers most of what you need to know- minus the actual removal of the spring from the strut on the front.

[gtaccord]

Originally Posted by thecadman99

Don't let anyone fool you- the rears are easy to get to, but you must be sure to mark all your bolts before you loosen anything. You can seriously throw your car out of whack if you don't put all your adjustments back where they were.
Even then, its a good idea to get an alignment.

ECS has an excellent video that covers most of what you need to know- minus the actual removal of the spring from the strut on the front.

Taking the shock out of the rear (which is all that this requires) will not mess with your alignment since you don't have to disconnect any of the suspension arms.

Like I said, the front is a big pain. I love working on cars but working on a coil over strut suspension is one of my least favorite things to do.

[fdawg4l]

Where was this video when I installed my coilover?!

Removing the caliper and disc would have made life much easier. I was just afraid of messing with the brakes. The last time I attempted a brake bleed, I had no brakes a few days later while on the highway. That was a fun ride. The bleeder screw wasnt tight enough and came undone spraying brake juice all over my rim. Downshift, coast, pray with my arm on the e-brake if all else failed.

[thecadman99]

Originally Posted by gtaccord

Taking the shock out of the rear (which is all that this requires) will not mess with your alignment since you don't have to disconnect any of the suspension arms.

Like I said, the front is a big pain. I love working on cars but working on a coil over strut suspension is one of my least favorite things to do.

I guess I was overly concerned about tearing the suspension bushing when I removed mine. I loosened everything.
Just be sure to support the control arm OP so it doesn't drop too far.
Good point gtaccord!


Oh, and get a set of these for the fronts OP. I shopped all over and read a lot of reviews. These work really well for the money. Mine were less than $40 in-store

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=70135_0_0_