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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Silicone Vacuum Line Replacement



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      09-26-2013, 05:56 PM   #1
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Silicone Vacuum Line Replacement

I've been thinking about replacing all my vacuum lines since im at 65k anyways, i looked up Silicone lines and they seem like a good alternative. Does anyone have a DIY on all the lines to replace? Or maybe a diy on the silicone replacement? What about the sizes of the vacuum lines, are they all the same?

I did a search but came up empty. A DIY with photos would be perfect if one is out their somewhere.
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      09-26-2013, 09:22 PM   #2
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Basically, buy 10 ft of replacement line (OEM or silicone or whatever) and then remove each line individually on your car, cut the new line to match and then install. Rinse and repeat until all lines are replaced.

Most of the lines are pretty easy and visible. I found it easier to remove the boost solenoids to replace all of those lines. The lines going to the wastegates are a pain but you can get them. The line that goes to the front wastegate is easier if you remove the vacuum tanks and bracket.
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      09-26-2013, 10:03 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtaccord View Post
Basically, buy 10 ft of replacement line (OEM or silicone or whatever) and then remove each line individually on your car, cut the new line to match and then install. Rinse and repeat until all lines are replaced.

Most of the lines are pretty easy and visible. I found it easier to remove the boost solenoids to replace all of those lines. The lines going to the wastegates are a pain but you can get them. The line that goes to the front wastegate is easier if you remove the vacuum tanks and bracket.
So 10 feet is about all I would need? What about the size of the vacuum lines?
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      09-26-2013, 10:18 PM   #4
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Look here.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-335...e/Vacuum_Hose/

Any of the 3.5 mm hose will work.
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      09-26-2013, 10:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtaccord View Post
Look here.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-335...e/Vacuum_Hose/

Any of the 3.5 mm hose will work.
That works. Thanks!

Now the only thing that would make this easier is a picture of all the vacuum hoses installed lol
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      09-26-2013, 11:22 PM   #6
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real oem has a pic af all the vac lines
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      09-26-2013, 11:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buster84 View Post
So 10 feet is about all I would need? What about the size of the vacuum lines?
15-20 so you have a bit left over...depends if you are replacing them all or just main ones. I uses titanium laced silicone...best I have used!
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      09-27-2013, 01:57 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
15-20 so you have a bit left over...depends if you are replacing them all or just main ones. I uses titanium laced silicone...best I have used!
I wanted to replace them all. What about the turbo hoses. Since those are in high heat area's you'd want a high heat silicone. I seen some on ECS made by forge. ECS only sells 3mm and 4mm not 3.5mm? Should i buy 4mm?

What is titanium laced silicon? Are those better than the ones made by Forge?
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      09-27-2013, 08:37 AM   #9
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The link I sent you had 3.5 mm tubing. Silicone or not you will probably want to replace them every 75k miles or so anyway. This isn't rocket science. Buy some tubing (any kind) and get it done.
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      09-27-2013, 08:44 AM   #10
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I used the dayco lines from pepboys. About 12' for 10 bucks was enough to replace all the lines except the boost canisters to solenoids which looked fine.
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      09-27-2013, 09:22 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buster84 View Post
That works. Thanks!

Now the only thing that would make this easier is a picture of all the vacuum hoses installed lol

hahah Ive been looking for this too! Apparently its really easy but still would be nice to have
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      09-27-2013, 09:39 AM   #12
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Once you remove the engine cover it's pretty easy to see them. I ran out of hose before doing the two coming out of the bottom of the vacuum tanks, I'll try to snap a pic when I do them this weekend.

Make sure you use a razor to remove them so you don't snap any of the plastic nipples.

The lines that go to the wastegates are the most difficult. The rear one wasn't too bad, for the front one I had to do some contortionist shit to get it on, if you have big hands you may want to get help on the front wastegate.

Stealership wanted close to $600 to replace my lines, I spent $12 and some time out of my day lol.
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      09-27-2013, 01:37 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmerguy View Post
hahah Ive been looking for this too! Apparently its really easy but still would be nice to have
I found this. Its helpfull, but not as good as some pictures with some editing in paint to show the lines better in color lol. (its Attached)

Quote:
Originally Posted by glachhman View Post
I used the dayco lines from pepboys. About 12' for 10 bucks was enough to replace all the lines except the boost canisters to solenoids which looked fine.
Are those lines good enough in the high temp area's where the turbo chargers are? Or would i need different lines for that area?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackBB6 View Post
Once you remove the engine cover it's pretty easy to see them. I ran out of hose before doing the two coming out of the bottom of the vacuum tanks, I'll try to snap a pic when I do them this weekend.

Make sure you use a razor to remove them so you don't snap any of the plastic nipples.

The lines that go to the wastegates are the most difficult. The rear one wasn't too bad, for the front one I had to do some contortionist shit to get it on, if you have big hands you may want to get help on the front wastegate.

Stealership wanted close to $600 to replace my lines, I spent $12 and some time out of my day lol.
Dam, the dealer wants that much for vacuum lines?? Talk about a rip off. I was planning to use Silicone ones, but maybe I'll just replace them with the Dayco ones as well since im replacing my coils tomorrow i might as well do the lines at the same time. To bad shops don't sell silicone locally.

Your pictures would be extra helpful
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      09-27-2013, 05:13 PM   #14
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When you see how easy they are to identify, you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner. The longer green and red sections are the ones that run to the wastegates. The lines are held in with clips you'll have to free them from, similar to the one in the middle of the blue section.

Yes, I know my engine bay is dirty, and I the oil housing gasket is going to be replaced next week.






Last edited by BlackBB6; 09-27-2013 at 05:19 PM..
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      12-06-2013, 02:39 PM   #15
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I was able to replace all of them except for the back (red) one and the front (green) one. Basically the hoses are dry rotted to the plastic nipples and I am not able to see the source or reach it with a razor. How were you guys able to cut the hoses you couldn't see and barely reach?
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      12-07-2013, 04:24 AM   #16
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I have small hands :x
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      12-10-2013, 04:30 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackBB6 View Post
I have small hands :x
So you cant reach them with bigger hands?
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      12-10-2013, 05:01 PM   #18
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To get the front green one, remove the vacuum canisters and unbolt the radiator fluid reservoir and move it to the side. That should get you room to move around.

As for the the rear turbo actuator hose...i would suggest removing the heat shield that the waste gate solenoids are attached to, cut the old line off, start the new line, reinstall heat shield with solenoids, cut and connect solenoid side of silicone line. Shouldn't be too bad. You might also be able to get to the actuator from below...not sure if the dp is in the way or not. Can't remember what it looks like down there.
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      02-21-2014, 11:31 AM   #19
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But isn't the red line coupled with other small hoses? Do you just draw the new one outside that?
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      02-21-2014, 04:15 PM   #20
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I don't know what kind of hose you are using, back when I was racing I thought it was a good idea to use silicon hose. I used silicone hose with the same wall thickness as the factory hose and learned that silicon hose tends to collapse easier than rubber, especially when it got hot. I ended up using a thicker wall size for silicon hoses and that seemed to help, eventually i went back to rubber or hard line.
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      02-21-2014, 04:22 PM   #21
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http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...Cured-Silicone
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      05-21-2014, 12:30 PM   #22
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This thread is awesome and should be stickied (particularly for the pictures and the color coded lines). There are a lot of us who are in need of this maintenance.
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