[twinky64]

2007 328xi E90 with 105k miles Automatic Trans.

After I changed the Valvetronic gasket, I experienced a rough idle. Driving felt normal without hesitation. Power seemed normal without any losses nor loss of throttle sensitivity. Coming to a stop proved to be rough and engine flirts with stalling. I re-installed my old spark plugs just to rule out the new spark plugs. I still get the same rough idle with normal driving performance and problems coming to a stop. The codes I get are P0303, P0305, P0300, P1415, and P0171.

Read forums and most responses point to vacuum leak. I checked all hoses and PCV valve ? located on top of Valve Cover near the firewall. Everything looks great! I checked the Valvetronic Gasket again, and I noticed that one side was not fully seated by 0.5mm!!! With nothing to lose, I tightened it to full seated position and started the car. Performs very well as intended without hesitations or troubles coming to a stop. All codes cleared as a result.

Lessons Learned:
1. The new Valvetronic Gasket is slightly bowed. Ensure mounting the gasket is fully seated at fastener locations ref. fig 17 - Torx 30 Fasteners.

2. The seemingly small vacuum leak caused by a 0.5mm-1.0mm gap on one side of the Valvetronic Gasket caused misfires. This can lead someone toward replacing ignition related components and troubleshooting MAF sensor.

3. When performing a Valvetronic gasket change without swapping Valvetronic motors, the need to re-learn via BMW Scan Tool did not seem necessary my experience.

*Keep in mind that if the car was running well prior to working on it...only the parts you've touched would be impacted. In other words, things don't miraculously break while the car isn't either: running, in motion, chemically faulted/contaminated, or the electrical system wasn't shorted.
I've read responses where "check the VANOS, check the MAF, etc". If they were working perfectly and you didn't touch other components, chances are they are OKAY. Narrow your troubleshooting to your scope of work and components in proximity therein.
In my instance, my 2007 328xi was running perfectly prior to Valvetronic gasket change. I was getting misfire but I didn't start swapping out coils with brand new ones just because.*

Thank you! All is well and back to normal.

[coupedream]

great write up. i just tackled my eccentric sensor by taking the steps from this diy. i found the sensor, and vcg at secs tuning for $290 in a kit. it came with bolts but i didn't use them because they didn't seem to fit right. i purchased my valvtronic gasket from a local car dealer for $20. as a first timer it took me all day because i was back and forth to autozone for tools but my car seems like it is stronger now everything is working. I'm at 119k miles on my 328i with 330 manifold swap and active autoworke tune.

[revolution337]

Doesn't seem so scary now with this write up!

[hossiena]

Hi,

How did you finally get the breather hose off! I'm also trying to be careful and not to break the hose but after spending hours prying and pulling I'm about to give up and put the car back together without doing the gasket. thanks.

[fishfun83]

I just slid a flat screw driver under the retainer and after working it around for 3 or 4 it came off. I know this would not be the preferred method but it worked for me.

[NYCiROLL]

Thanks for the great DIY.

Used this to preform the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor replacement and all 3 gaskets. My sensor wasn't oily but it was showing the great P107A code.

My 06 330i seemed to be a unicorn of sorts. My wiring harness was a major PIA. The only way I was able to get some slack to remove the valve cover was to take apart the ignition wiring harness (plastic black box) Seems there was one connector that went under the engine to the water pump which I couldn't easily reach.

Pointers:
- I'd recommend to all unsure with this level of repair is to take pictures tons of pictures that way if you don't recall how something was connected you'll have a visual reference.

- Check and recheck all connectors. In my haste I left the intake vanos connector in place but not fully seated so my first start up my baby wasn't happy and threw CEL and uber rough idle.

All said n done No more P107A error code!

[Ted528iT]

I found your post while searching for information on the eccentric cam sensor on my 2010 X3 (E83). That's a great write-up. I was replacing the spark plugs and ignition coils when I noticed oil around the sensor. There is only a little oil in the sensor, so I have not had any driveability issues yet.

I am curious why you decided to replace the sensor instead of just replacing the gasket and then cleaning the sensor with electrical cleaner.

Thanks,

Ted Staib
2010 X3
2000 528iaT
1991 M5
1991 325i

[Ted528iT]

I wanted to add a note about what I did. Again, I have an 2010 X3 (E83) with 57k miles. I discovered the oil leak in the eccentric cam sensor early enough that it did not affect driveability. So I just replaced the cam sensor gasket. I easily removed the gasket by jimmying it up with a small blade screwdriver. The new gasket was easily pressed in. I used electric contact cleaner and a piece of cotton t-shirt to clean the oil out of the sensor and off the matching plug.

I attached a picture of the failed gasket (left), which shows where the support ring cut through the rubber. The new gasket is on the right side.

[E91_Dave]

Just used this "how to" to replace the rocker gasket on my 130i LE, really good info!

Thanks!

[MikeD8891]

Anyone experience garbage fuel economy after doing both sensor and vgc replacement? I used to get about 18 city and it dropped to 11 for two tanks now. My indy did say that sometimes they go in to have computer relearn vanos motor limits, but very infrequently. My only other guess is that maybe something on the electrical harness which connects to the fuel rail was fubar'd in the disassembly or reassembly. Would think it would throw codes though if that was the case. Anyone have similar issues?

[Gr330zhp]

I've been battling for hours on my sisters 328i(N51) trying to get the vcg off. I finally got the rear lower corner bolt loose, only to discover I missed the one next to the DME. Battled for an hour and a half on one stupid bolt with every possible attatchemnr of ratchets, swivel head, Etc and nothing I must say so far this is the hardest BMW engine I've worked on, and I know the M30, M54 and M62 in and out completely.

[BAlexander]

Thank you for the post OP, this thread helped me tremendously. After dealing with rough idling, hard cold starts, and intermittent power loss, I went ahead and replaced the VCG, valvetronic motor gasket, ignition coils, spark plugs, and eccentric valve sensor gasket in my 07' 328xi (90k miles) last night.

Dealer quoted me at nearly $3,000 for this job so this is definitely a DIY for those of you who are cost conscious and fairly mechanically inclined. Total time spent was 4 hours and total cost was roughly $400 not including some misc. tools.

My take away from the job:

1. Take your time, be very organized
2. OP is right, VC is a PITA to remove, just be diligent in your efforts in order to avoid damage to PCV inlet located on VC near firewall
3. Don't stress about removing/replacing valvetronic motor; remove, replace, let cycle before starting engine.
4. Make sure you have the right part numbers if ordering online (better yet, call dealership and cross reference parts with VIN). I was lucky enough that my local dealer stays open until 9pm, otherwise I would have been screwed due to ordering wrong VCG.
5. Have a good swivel socket in your toolbox.

Lastly, my VCG probably should have been changed around 70k miles, it was hard as a rock and had to be chiseled out piece by piece. Ignition coil sockets in cylinders 3 and 4 had a fair amount of oil in them.

[bvanderhaar]

I just replaced the VCG's last weekend on my 03/08 build date 328xi with 95K miles. Both the front and rear corners of the gasket on the passenger side were slowly leaking oil. Also, evidence of a small amount of oil has been present since I changed the plugs at around 80K in all spark plug cylinders.

My Tips

• You'll need an E18 or 14mm 12-point socket for the large cross-brace bolt. I didn't have an E18 in my kit (goes up to E16).
• The rear vapor hose is a real pain. One thing that would've helped me to know is that the retaining clip is attached to the hose NOT the cover. The entire clip comes off the cover.
• If you don't have a c clip tool or are having trouble with it - it may not be worth trying to get the well sleeves out. I only got 3/6 with a cheap tool. The cover came off easy enough with the remaining 3 in
• My back corner bolt on passenger side seemed to be an odd shape - almost a little thicker neck that was oblong. I made the mistake of trying to put a normal one back in. Very frustrating. The front drivers side corner bolt is also different - but much easier to correct.
• This took me a whole Saturday 9-7. If I had to do it again, I could probably do it in ~4 hours. Extremely frustrating process. If you asked me at 5 I would've sworn off BMW's.

My outer valve cover gasket didn't feel stiff or break when taken out. Especially not compared to the ATF gasket I did previously or the spark plug gaskets. The spark plug gasket furthest away from the cabin was very brittle and came out in pieces. I'm guessing that gets the most drastic heat/cool cycles. My ESS gasket also failed - just like in the pictures in previous posts. There was a small amount of oil in the connector. I just used q tips to clean it up.

[posulli88]

Great write up!

Just replaced my valve cover gasket. All went smooth except for breaking the little nipple in the back passenger side corner of valve cover that I believe is part of the PVC system. Was able to epoxy back on with High temp epoxy. What do you guys think, is that a pretty crucial element? Do I need to replace valve cover now? I have seen mixed comments on this so wanted to see if anyone had clarification.

[tigermack]

Originally Posted by posulli88

Great write up!

Just replaced my valve cover gasket. All went smooth except for breaking the little nipple in the back passenger side corner of valve cover that I believe is part of the PVC system. Was able to epoxy back on with High temp epoxy. What do you guys think, is that a pretty crucial element? Do I need to replace valve cover now? I have seen mixed comments on this so wanted to see if anyone had clarification.

You should be ok if you did a decent job on the epoxy. There isn't that high of pressure from the valve cover so you should be ok.

[azuki84]

For those who replaced the broken crankcase breather hose, how do you remove the original electrical connector that come with the crankcase breather hose? I find it hidden behind and had minimal to no access to the clip on the electrical connector. Don't want to be yanking it off.

I got the hose disconnected and now left with just the electrical connector hanging. Any insights is very much appreciated. Thanks OP for the original post, it helps a lot although I have a slightly different engine variant that comes with a metal valve cover.

Note: This is on a 2006 325i E90. I am referring to part number: 11157522931

[fjameel]

2011 BMW 328 xi with 63K miles. Had a few cold starts 4 months ago my basic OBD threw P13B4 error code which apparently is an invalid code. Took it to the shop and they found oil in the spark plugs well. Replaced the eccentric sensor, seals and spark plugs. Car ran fine for a few months and now the light with the same error code is back. Had to fill one quart of oil after the repair I guess to replace the oil that had leaked. Is this a common problem with these cars ?

I have no problems driving... does this get worse if not fixed

[left123]

I have an 06 330i, 73k miles, and am in the middle of this project, and the eccentric shaft sensor gasket does NOT want to come out. I have the metal valve cover, unlike a lot of people on here who have plastic ones, so the gasket seems to be more difficult to remove.

Anyone have any specific advise about removing this gasket on the metal valve covered 06 models? I am about to take a razor knife to it as it seems to be very stuck.

[left123]

Originally Posted by left123

I have an 06 330i, 73k miles, and am in the middle of this project, and the eccentric shaft sensor gasket does NOT want to come out. I have the metal valve cover, unlike a lot of people on here who have plastic ones, so the gasket seems to be more difficult to remove.

Anyone have any specific advise about removing this gasket on the metal valve covered 06 models? I am about to take a razor knife to it as it seems to be very stuck.

Well, answered my own question after I ran into this post:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=16821490&postcount=30


On the 06's, the ESS gasket is a be-atch to remove. I used vice grips on the thicker part of the inner side of the gasket and just ripped most of it off. Then I did the same on the outside, where the metal mostly is (it has metal in it if you didn't know). I then just carefully deformed the rubber/metal and ripped it out. Careful not to dent the metal valve cover. Good luck.

[Wilt]

Originally Posted by MrQuickR1

Thanks, I suck at write ups, never was good at explaining things but I try.
This forum has helped me a lot already I wanted to donate back into it.

SUPERB quality write-up. You set a standard of excellence for others to emulate in writing up information on procedures for others to follow!

My 2011 SULEV at 4.6 years and 44k miles had an eccentric shaft sensor replaced under CA Emissions Warranty...reading the procedure to DIY makes me appreciative of the extended protection afforded to my car by CA state insistence! I did not even have to pay the usual $50 deductible for the coverage afforded to me by the CPO Warranty.

[Camman]

114k 07 328i here and I'm about to tackle replacing the valve cover and eccentric shaft sensor. My car acted up last weekend during a road trip. Car hesitated and SES light came on. Idle would become really rough and a whistling/whining noise would come from the engine. Car would run fine after restarting but problem would come back if I ever did a long cruise on the highway. Took it to the shop and they said the valve cover is the issue here but suggested changing the eccentric sensor while the valve cover was off. They quoted $1800 to do the job. I did a lot of research and this looks very doable as long as you are patient with everything. I found this video below on youtube and it definitely gave me a lot more confidence to do it myself because it is very detailed on how to do the entire job. Figured I would post for anyone else that will need to change the eccentric shaft sensor in the future.

[Camman]

I replaced my valve cover and eccentric sensor over the Thanksgiving holidays.

Overall, this is not a difficult job. It just requires a lot of patience. I suggest not doing this alone. Having an extra set of hands will really help. Removing the injector harness requires patience because those little metal clips will want to slide back on a lot. The breather hose didn't take long but we used some tools to get the push tab on the bottom end and the extra set of hands helped a lot here. Getting the valve cover off took some work just because there is not a whole lot of room to work with. Changing the eccentric sensor is pretty straight forward.

I watched the video I posted about 3-4 times and it definitely helped a lot! I also made a set of notes of everything the guy did and followed those notes when doing the job myself. Overall it took about 6 hours.

Curious to know what the benefit is for using the special tool for the valvetronic motor versus just cycling it with the key. Does not using this tool have any negative long term affects on the valvetronic motor?