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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Just Pre-Orderd: Vargas Stage II
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10-02-2012, 01:24 PM | #23 | |
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Are you going to run the BMS backend flash also? It keeps AFR and timing SO solid. I'm waiting for this upgraded lpfp to come out so I can test 100% e85
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10-02-2012, 01:38 PM | #24 | |
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10-02-2012, 01:47 PM | #25 |
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Ehh i dunno if im gonna want to get a cobb lool.. i might borrow my buddys for a week and do sum testing but idk at this point let the turbos come to my front door first and we will see whats up
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10-02-2012, 02:02 PM | #26 |
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Strong claim. To be able to say something like that, you should be able to show us the compressor map and where you will be at it. Wanna give it a try?
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10-02-2012, 02:26 PM | #27 |
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It's on the other forum. Look for it. I've already seen it and its been discussed at length. I owe you nothing. I stated that was shooting for 500whp and that is my goal. Its also the OPs goal. 495 has already been proven without meth. Ill post a dyno as soon as they're installed.
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10-02-2012, 02:35 PM | #28 |
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Can you PM me more details? Or who to talk to about the upgrade?
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10-02-2012, 02:47 PM | #29 | |
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10-02-2012, 03:32 PM | #30 |
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For 1 you can't post a link to the other forum on here. 2, I couldn't do it on this iPhone map if I wanted to. 3, show me the stock compressor map and then place my 440whp on it you can't do that either. Of course my goal is to be in the compressors efficiency range but if I still see gains slightly outside of the efficiency range I will continue to increase boost exactly how everyone has done it on stock turbos. So yes you may be correct in saying it is impossible to reach 500whp and still be in the turbos efficiency range, with that being said, no one pushing over 16psi is in the stock turbos efficiency range either. I plan to push the hybrids as far as I can until gain are negligible then back the boost down some for efficiency.
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10-02-2012, 03:57 PM | #31 |
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You can't say that 500whp will take it out of the efficiency range by itself. Maybe boost, ok.... If I need to run 27psi to hit 500whp then mabye, but according to this 27.5psi could be had in the midrange tapering to 19psi or so at redlline. What this translates to in HP yet I won't know till the turbos go on but it is DEFINATELY possible to peak OVER 21psi and still be on the island.
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10-02-2012, 04:03 PM | #33 | |
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If your serious about doing this here is a quick list of tools off the top of my head... T50 torx---Manifold Nuts 11mm deep socket---Manifold nuts E8 external torx---Heat shields T30 torx---Oil and Coolant lines 8mm---splash shields E10 torx---Steering shaft 16mm---aluminum thrust plate 18mm---Subfame E14---motor mount E12---water pump 10mm---thermostat 13mm---v-clamps on cat 12mm---exhast collector This is just off the top off my head. Dont forget the wastegates need to be adjusted, so you will need a vacuum pump. Again, I want to stress that this is not a light job. And not a job I would not want to do without a lift. The front turbo can actually come out the top, but the rear turbo has to come out the bottom. Your most likely going to want to upgrade your oil lines as well. Pushing 500-550HP might sound unreal, but there are some mods your going to need to upgrade with that much HP. There is no point in upgrading the turbos and then spending money again to upgrade the clutch (assuming you run 6MT) so do all your upgrades at the same time as once the engine is exposed, all the extra upgrades can be done no problem. Do the turbos, and clutch at the same time (I see you already have DP's) Just my .02 cents Last edited by shaginwagon13; 10-02-2012 at 04:12 PM.. |
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10-02-2012, 04:05 PM | #34 | |
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10-02-2012, 04:13 PM | #35 | |
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but not gonna pay to get it done just cuz i work at a shop don't see the point. Are you saying this off the top of you head from experience? haha |
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10-02-2012, 04:19 PM | #36 | |
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Some of my family members own a mechanic shop, so I too grew up mechanically inclined and yes I 'AIDED' in a turbo swap but I was definitely not the solo captain of this project. I am 100% sure you need to drop the subframe which is why this DIY is almost impossible without the right tools. Your going to need a lift, transmission jack and the tools specified above for sure along with an engine brace to support the motor after you take the sub frame out... Last edited by shaginwagon13; 10-02-2012 at 04:31 PM.. |
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10-02-2012, 04:25 PM | #37 | |
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FU*K lol damn I'm probably gonna have to pay my boss cuz I'm gonna take up the bay. for possibly a Day or 2 but tools I'm not worried about tools but time is an issue. + I'm a full time student. i might pay one of the guys at the shop to do it haha.. stupid subframe. |
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10-02-2012, 04:31 PM | #38 | |
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I'm not sure if your shop is open both Saturdays and Sundays. Assuming you guys are closed for Sundays, start the swap Saturday afternoon and then finish the swap on Sunday. That way your only taking up a lift during normal operational hours for half a day as Sunday the shop is closed to customers. In my opinion, if your going to crank out 500-550HP your going to need to get around $2000 minimum of additional upgrades (for example clutch, upgrades fuel and coolant lines, gaskets, spark plugs, fuel injectors, coils, M3 rear suspension, LSD, you might want to keep a HPFP and a LPFP on hand) and thats just a few as there are more that you could do help ensure your car remains reliable. Your in a unique situation though, ask your boss to hep you out order the upgraded parts. He will be able to get them for you at dealer prices as he owns a shop. That should save you 15-20% on parts alone. Going from 300 HP to 400HP is doable with stock equipment. Going from 400HP to over 500HP needs upgrades to a bunch of stuff. Again, just my .02 cents and if you plan a DIY take pics or a video if possible as I don't think anyone has documented a turbo swap on here before. |
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10-02-2012, 04:42 PM | #39 | |
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10-02-2012, 04:48 PM | #40 | |
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I would very highly recommend a new clutch and upgraded M3 rear suspension which include: A) Longer rear camber arm, wishbone whatever your favorite vendor calls it. Its also lighter as its made of aluminium. B) Tighter tension rods and better/stiffer front tower brace. C) Better toe link, stronger aluminum guide rods D) Slightly stiffer springs and obviously better shocks compared to 335 E) Last but very important are Subframe bushings. 335 ones are real crappy, causing the car to sway side to side under hard acceleration. http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335...ion/M_Upgrade/ I know your still in college, but you gotta do this right or your rear end is going to be all over the place. All that power means nadda if you can't get it to the ground. |
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10-02-2012, 04:58 PM | #41 | |
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10-02-2012, 05:07 PM | #42 | |
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10-02-2012, 05:29 PM | #43 | ||
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I was under the impression dropping the subframe was required, but if your swap was done with only dismounting engine mounts I guess it can be done that way as well. Last edited by shaginwagon13; 10-02-2012 at 05:36 PM.. |
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10-02-2012, 05:41 PM | #44 | |
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i think your right the "subframe" is #18 in the picture and possiblely #3 needs to be removed. and the steering rack needs to be dropped. I was thinking i needed to drop this thing. #1 |
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