[MrPig]

White smoke from exhaust = burning coolant. Usually. Could be a head gasket leak or a cracked head.

[michael_ro]

Originally Posted by queensfield

What they did is to check for the air to fuel ratio and short and long term trims. If the trims are within a certain spec (usually within plus or minus 25% for lean or rich), then they called it a pass. Do you have the data for the trims that they supplied to you? The leak could also be in the exhaust lines, which will throw the O2 sensor reading off. The test they did should show the O2 sensor voltage as well. Oil in intake usually indicates oil fumes getting past the PCV (Positive Crankshaft Ventilation) valve into the throttle area. Smoke test is a really good test for all leaks, but it appears it is not available to you in your area. So, I would first start with recording the data from OBD2 port using a monitor and looking at all data from startup and idling to running. The entire recorded data can then be looked at to point to problem areas. Vanos solenoids cleaning is another good to do with rough idling problems.

I don't have the data yet. But I will request it on monday. They did an computer check and electronic engine check. I suppose if any error was present they would have told me (ex: for running lean or rich, for errors on the O2 sensors). I've read before that a rough idle is generate by: a) electrical problem; b) air problem or c) fuel/fuel pump problem. Next week I'll change the spark plugs and clean the vanos solenoids. I'll keep you posted.

[michael_ro]

Originally Posted by queensfield

What they did is to check for the air to fuel ratio and short and long term trims. If the trims are within a certain spec (usually within plus or minus 25% for lean or rich), then they called it a pass. Do you have the data for the trims that they supplied to you? The leak could also be in the exhaust lines, which will throw the O2 sensor reading off. The test they did should show the O2 sensor voltage as well. Oil in intake usually indicates oil fumes getting past the PCV (Positive Crankshaft Ventilation) valve into the throttle area. Smoke test is a really good test for all leaks, but it appears it is not available to you in your area. So, I would first start with recording the data from OBD2 port using a monitor and looking at all data from startup and idling to running. The entire recorded data can then be looked at to point to problem areas. Vanos solenoids cleaning is another good to do with rough idling problems.

What do you use for vanos solenoids cleaning? I have Mass air flow cleaner (CRC) and throttle body cleaner.

[queensfield]

You can use the CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner or CRC electronics cleaner or pressurized air. Here is the link to DIY and has a wealth of info
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=486201

[michael_ro]

I found the vacuum leak. I did a smoke test my self by blowing smoke in the vacuum line and waiting to see the smoke. I also sealed with a plastic foil the intake hoses and clamping them down with their original clamps. Sure enough I could see a little bit of smoke and a hissing sound. I also sprayed water mixed with dishwasher liquid and I could see bubbles forming. The leak I found was on the intake manifold on the edge of the DISA situated on the same side as the engine. Probably a bad seal. I'll try to fix the leak although there isn't a gasket sold as an individual part for the DISA. Just the DISA as a spare part. I take it to the mechanic and see what we can do. The BMW dealer (AUTOMOBILE BAVARIA - BUCHAREST) was awful and claimed that we "hissing" sound was normal and they can't perform a vacuum/smoke test. They suggested that the plugs might be the problem. Awful dealer !!

I used this technique :

PLUS
spraying water and detergent where I could see a little bit of smoke coming out.

I'll keep you posted.

[michael_ro]

Originally Posted by queensfield

You can use the CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner or CRC electronics cleaner or pressurized air. Here is the link to DIY and has a wealth of info
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=486201

Thanks.

[TheTal0n]

Definatly try changing your airfilter and cleaing the MAF, if you havent already. its the cheapest and easiest. When you take it off, examine your air box and vent tubes for cracks.

[michael_ro]

Originally Posted by TheTal0n

Definatly try changing your airfilter and cleaing the MAF, if you havent already. its the cheapest and easiest. When you take it off, examine your air box and vent tubes for cracks.

Been there, done that!
I explained this in a prior post. The MAF is clean as a whistle (I change the air filter every 7000 miles) and I changed all the hoses that go into the throttle body with new ones.

[TheTal0n]

Originally Posted by michael_ro

Been there, done that!
I explained this in a prior post. The MAF is clean as a whistle (I change the air filter every 7000 miles) and I changed all the hoses that go into the throttle body with new ones.

i still clean mine, even though it looks brand new...micro dust!! Hmmm well, did you scan it yet to see any codes?

[M3inMG]

I same car and does the same thing i have been to the dealer with no answers. I put "Shell" gas only now and it never came back until the other day i was real low i put 7-11 gas by the time i got to first light it was doing it, i used ethanol remover and pumped shell gas and it is fine again. My conclusion for 3 years is my car only likes shell gasoline.

[michael_ro]

I'm back with updates.
I had previously done a smoke test (myself) and found it was leaking through the gaskets of the DISA (both of them). I went to a mechanic and took out the entire manyfold and sealed them back with a special silicone. The seals on the DISA were literally distroyed. They looked like they exploded due to the high temperatures in the engine. After sealing them, I redid the smoke test and found 2 more air leaks. Both on the vacuum lines. I sealed those too (temporarily with superglue) and redid the smoke test.
It's leak proof now. No codes before but I'll redo a diagnosis.
The bad news is that it still fluctuates! It's so frustrating. Incredible!

[michael_ro]

Originally Posted by TheTal0n

i still clean mine, even though it looks brand new...micro dust!! Hmmm well, did you scan it yet to see any codes?

Cleaned it on saturday with CRC MAF cleaner. I'll check again for codes on thursday. Last time....no codes.

[TheTal0n]

Originally Posted by michael_ro

Cleaned it on saturday with CRC MAF cleaner. I'll check again for codes on thursday. Last time....no codes.

my 330i usually goes down to 650 rpms when almost coming to a complete stop, then a a complete stop it idles down to 500-550, but its not very rough or anything..guess its common with the 330i though.

when did you last change your plugs?

[michael_ro]

Originally Posted by TheTal0n

my 330i usually goes down to 650 rpms when almost coming to a complete stop, then a a complete stop it idles down to 500-550, but its not very rough or anything..guess its common with the 330i though.

when did you last change your plugs?

2 weeks ago. Brand new NGK Iridium Laser spark plugs.
The vacuum leak sounded the most plausible scenario. Maybe it still has some leak I haven't yet found.
Does anybody know any other vacuum lines other than these: ?
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...34&fg=27&hl=63
Mine idles even less. I went in to the computer which shows exactly the RPM and today it was fluctuating between 655 - 665.

[TheTal0n]

Originally Posted by michael_ro

2 weeks ago. Brand new NGK Iridium Laser spark plugs.
The vacuum leak sounded the most plausible scenario. Maybe it still has some leak I haven't yet found.
Does anybody know any other vacuum lines other than these: ?
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...34&fg=27&hl=63
Mine idles even less. I went in to the computer which shows exactly the RPM and today it was fluctuating between 655 - 665.

I got new plugs in mine too, about 5k miles on them max, And no codes come up? shadow codes?

does the car seem to bounce left to right? stumbling around?

[michael_ro]

No codes before. I'll check it again. I now suspect an instrument panel or an electrical problem because the needle starts fluctuating but the electronic RPM shown in the internal computer of the car stays the same all through out.

[michael_ro]

I just got the same error code from my car. P160F. 177 times.
The only symptom/problem on my car is that my RPM slightly fluctuates after the car warms up.
Any ideas?

[michael_ro]

I got 3 codes:
P0102
P14C3
P160F
Does any one have a list of all the trouble codes explicanations?

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by michael_ro

However I found oil in the intake manifold. I don't think thats normal....

It can be, it's just spooge sucked through the crankcase ventilation system (CCV) to be burned. Whether it's normal or not depends on where you found it.

Now, it is possible that a CCV/oil separator problem can cause 1/ excessive oil in the intake and 2/ running and idle problems perhaps you should take a closer look at the CCV.

[BMWSG]

Problem Solved ?

[Three_thirty_I]

Originally Posted by BMWSG

Problem Solved ?

These engines seem to be more troublesome that expected! My 330i's engine has a rattle which seems to be the DISA Flaps, also a dip in power between 3000 and 4500 rpm. Engine idle is not perfectly smooth, but not too bad most of the time.