[Eschleae]

I just finished this DIY and there is still a popping noise when I go over bumps/turns... any idea what it could be?

[left123]

Originally Posted by Eschleae

I just finished this DIY and there is still a popping noise when I go over bumps/turns... any idea what it could be?

My first thought is the end links for the front lower sway bar. You should be able to get underneath and wiggle with a pry bar on those and the other links to check to see what has play in it.

Hope you get it worked out.

[VPRRAM]

So I did the "M3" upgrade, and now the car steering is really weird. Almost no neutral, and when you turn, it stays turned...I will double check. Do I need to get it aligned? Its not right, anyone else have this issue?
Any help would be appreciated.

Mike

[Socket]

Originally Posted by VPRRAM

So I did the "M3" upgrade, and now the car steering is really weird. Almost no neutral, and when you turn, it stays turned...I will double check. Do I need to get it aligned? Its not right, anyone else have this issue?
Any help would be appreciated.

Mike

alignment is a must after any suspension/steering upgrade

[kkasson]

Originally Posted by J. Dub

I thought the bolt through the thrust arm bushing is not to be reused. Am I wrong?

Yes, the nut and bolt should both be replaced. The new control arms typically come with a new locking nut for the ball joint side, but not hardware for the bushing side. The bushing side has a locking nut and a stretch bolt. They should both be replaced. Locking nuts usually always have to be replaced. The torque spec for the bolt, according to Bentley, is a torque plus an angle. That typically indicates a stretch bolt that must be replaced after it's been loosened. I just bought control arms and I ordered a new nut and bolt to be safe. The nut and bolt were approx. $15 for each side at the local dealership.

[kkasson]

I just finished changing mine. I expected it to be simple but it turned into a bit of a nightmare. The bushing bolts came out fine, but I had lots of problems with the ball joint side. I tried loosening the driver's side by hand, but I ended up breaking four T40 sockets before it finally stripped out. I got the nut about half way off before it stripped out. I borrowed two cordless impacts from friends hope that would take care of it. That got the passenger side out with no problems, but since I'd already partially loosened the driver's side the ball joint was spinning with the nut. I tried vise grips and pry bars and every thing I could think of to hold the ball joint in place, but nothing seemed to work. I finally ended up using a dremel and started cutting the nut, and once I cut into the nylon it released the tension and the impact took it off the rest of the way.

For anyone else doing this, I'd highly recommend using an impact on the ball joint. Once you break the ball joint free and it starts to spin, there's not much hope of getting the nut off.

[Figure807]

I cut the rubber off the end before I applied a vise grip to the bare metal to stop it from spinning.

[Grohouse]

Thanks for this DIY - helped out a lot!

Replaced my upper and lower control arms today, very similar procedure on both - took roughly 4 hours considering I was doing it in my compact garage. I replaced my 9 year old arms with new OEM's & not the heavy duty like the ones replaced in this DIY. However, very happy with the results car feels like new again, very planted and steady front end just the way it should be.

I ended up using C-clamps on the lower control arm and using the torx bit for the upper to remove the nut. I could not fit an 18mm socket for the RH upper arm sub-frame bolt as it was protruding too much, so I ended up estimating the torque (I was careful not to go too crazy but still feel confident not coming off).

Cheers!

[madmantwo]

Originally Posted by FrankyGTR

Same thing happened to me with the bushing bolt on passenger side it just keeps turning.anyone know the fix?

Not sure if this is a common problem but this also happened to me. I thought I had overtorqued it, but it turns out I had put the bolt through crooked and when screwing it in, the threads were coming into contact with the subframe itself rather than the locking nut on the end and the subframe stripped the threads right off.

The actual fix is to order a new bolt and one of these https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/31106767496/ which is the locking nut that clips to the subframe (or you can just order the entire install kit from ECS).

You can then cut the old nut off, pull the old bolt out and try again, this time making sure that you can easily push the bolt all the way through to the nut and thread it with minimal effort. Then you can torque it down properly

[shadowx360]

Originally Posted by Eschleae

I just finished this DIY and there is still a popping noise when I go over bumps/turns... any idea what it could be?

Did you ever fix this? I have the same problem and I've swapped all control arms, all new brakes, and the bushing for the sway bars that hold it to the frame. The only thing left is the sway bar connections to the suspension. It only happens on left turns for me or when the driver's wheel goes over a bump. At this point I'm selling the car soon but I'd like it fixed for the next owner.

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by shadowx360

Did you ever fix this? I have the same problem and I've swapped all control arms, all new brakes, and the bushing for the sway bars that hold it to the frame. The only thing left is the sway bar connections to the suspension. It only happens on left turns for me or when the driver's wheel goes over a bump. At this point I'm selling the car soon but I'd like it fixed for the next owner.

I've read up on the control arms replacement ad nauseam as some day I'm going to get around to doing this on my e82.

The Bentley manual seems clear that for both arms, the end to the steering knuckle is to be tightened fully; then lower the car. Then tighten the bushing end of the arm to the subframe.

Quote:
Remember to:
• Make sure thread bores, bolts, nuts and mating surfaces are clean.
• Install bushing end of control arm to subframe using new fasteners.
Do not tighten nut at this time.

• Install control arm ball joint to steering knuckle using new selflocking nut. Tighten fully.

• Install ride height sensor link rod to control arm (if applicable).

• Install wheel and lower car.

• Tighten bushing end of control arm to subframe with car on ground and loaded. Bounce suspension a few times before final tightening.
Endquote

The quote above is for the control arm but the tension strut instructions are essentially the same.


Could torquing both ends of the arms under load be a reason why some are experiencing issues? Also, as mentioned above, new fasteners should be used.

[madmantwo]

Originally Posted by gjm120

I've read up on the control arms replacement ad nauseam as some day I'm going to get around to doing this on my e82.

The Bentley manual seems clear that for both arms, the end to the steering knuckle is to be tightened fully; then lower the car. Then tighten the bushing end of the arm to the subframe.

Quote:
Remember to:
• Make sure thread bores, bolts, nuts and mating surfaces are clean.
• Install bushing end of control arm to subframe using new fasteners.
Do not tighten nut at this time.

• Install control arm ball joint to steering knuckle using new selflocking nut. Tighten fully.

• Install ride height sensor link rod to control arm (if applicable).

• Install wheel and lower car.

• Tighten bushing end of control arm to subframe with car on ground and loaded. Bounce suspension a few times before final tightening.
Endquote

The quote above is for the control arm but the tension strut instructions are essentially the same.


Could torquing both ends of the arms under load be a reason why some are experiencing issues? Also, as mentioned above, new fasteners should be used.

It seems like tons people have successfully followed DIYs instructing people to tighten both sides of the arms under load, so I doubt that is causing their issues but it is a possibility. I've already installed one side of mine (then had an issue with a stripped bolt) but I mistakenly tightened down the nuts on the knuckle for both arms on the driver's side under load. I'm wondering if I should undo them and re-tighten them NOT under load just to be safe...

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by madmantwo

It seems like tons people have successfully followed DIYs instructing people to tighten both sides of the arms under load, so I doubt that is causing their issues but it is a possibility. I've already installed one side of mine (then had an issue with a stripped bolt) but I mistakenly tightened down the nuts on the knuckle for both arms on the driver's side under load. I'm wondering if I should undo them and re-tighten them NOT under load just to be safe...

Difficult question. I'm sure someone who knows more than me will answer. But you probably should use new fasteners if you decide to loosen and re-torque.

[kkasson]

Originally Posted by madmantwo

It seems like tons people have successfully followed DIYs instructing people to tighten both sides of the arms under load, so I doubt that is causing their issues but it is a possibility. I've already installed one side of mine (then had an issue with a stripped bolt) but I mistakenly tightened down the nuts on the knuckle for both arms on the driver's side under load. I'm wondering if I should undo them and re-tighten them NOT under load just to be safe...

I don't think it should matter.

The bushing side needs to be tightened under load because if it's fully tightened in the air it will lock the bushing into place, and when the car is lowered on to the ground it will bind the bushing. The ball joint isn't able to bind the way that the bushing is, it just gets pulled into the knuckle. So I don't see a problem leaving it as is.

[madmantwo]

Originally Posted by kkasson

I don't think it should matter.

The bushing side needs to be tightened under load because if it's fully tightened in the air it will lock the bushing into place, and when the car is lowered on to the ground it will bind the bushing. The ball joint isn't able to bind the way that the bushing is, it just gets pulled into the knuckle. So I don't see a problem leaving it as is.

Yeah that's what I figured as well, not worried about it anymore after getting under there and looking at the ball joint today. Thanks for the reassurance

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by kkasson

I just finished changing mine. I expected it to be simple but it turned into a bit of a nightmare. The bushing bolts came out fine, but I had lots of problems with the ball joint side. I tried loosening the driver's side by hand, but I ended up breaking four T40 sockets before it finally stripped out. I got the nut about half way off before it stripped out. I borrowed two cordless impacts from friends hope that would take care of it. That got the passenger side out with no problems, but since I'd already partially loosened the driver's side the ball joint was spinning with the nut. I tried vise grips and pry bars and every thing I could think of to hold the ball joint in place, but nothing seemed to work. I finally ended up using a dremel and started cutting the nut, and once I cut into the nylon it released the tension and the impact took it off the rest of the way.

For anyone else doing this, I'd highly recommend using an impact on the ball joint. Once you break the ball joint free and it starts to spin, there's not much hope of getting the nut off.

When I replaced my thrust arms a few years ago I used an air impact gun (Ingersol Rand 2130). It ran the nut right off the stud and the ball joint literally fell out of the steering knuckle.

[shadowx360]

Originally Posted by gjm120

I've read up on the control arms replacement ad nauseam as some day I'm going to get around to doing this on my e82.

The Bentley manual seems clear that for both arms, the end to the steering knuckle is to be tightened fully; then lower the car. Then tighten the bushing end of the arm to the subframe.

Quote:
Remember to:
• Make sure thread bores, bolts, nuts and mating surfaces are clean.
• Install bushing end of control arm to subframe using new fasteners.
Do not tighten nut at this time.

• Install control arm ball joint to steering knuckle using new selflocking nut. Tighten fully.

• Install ride height sensor link rod to control arm (if applicable).

• Install wheel and lower car.

• Tighten bushing end of control arm to subframe with car on ground and loaded. Bounce suspension a few times before final tightening.
Endquote

The quote above is for the control arm but the tension strut instructions are essentially the same.


Could torquing both ends of the arms under load be a reason why some are experiencing issues? Also, as mentioned above, new fasteners should be used.

I did that when I installed new ones, but I think on the thread someone gave an exact inches of how far to load the suspension and my car started lifting before I could compress it that much. Maybe that's the problem, i didn't load it enough but the only way I could have loaded it to that many inches was to add weight to the car to compress the springs further and I didn't feel comfortable doing that while using a jack on the wheel hub to compress the spring. There's no room to tighten it if I put the wheel back on and then drop the car fully and have someone sit in the driver seat.

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by shadowx360

I did that when I installed new ones, but I think on the thread someone gave an exact inches of how far to load the suspension and my car started lifting before I could compress it that much. Maybe that's the problem, i didn't load it enough but the only way I could have loaded it to that many inches was to add weight to the car to compress the springs further and I didn't feel comfortable doing that while using a jack on the wheel hub to compress the spring. There's no room to tighten it if I put the wheel back on and then drop the car fully and have someone sit in the driver seat.

Maybe having the car sitting on ramps?

[left123]

Originally Posted by shadowx360

I did that when I installed new ones, but I think on the thread someone gave an exact inches of how far to load the suspension and my car started lifting before I could compress it that much. Maybe that's the problem, i didn't load it enough but the only way I could have loaded it to that many inches was to add weight to the car to compress the springs further and I didn't feel comfortable doing that while using a jack on the wheel hub to compress the spring. There's no room to tighten it if I put the wheel back on and then drop the car fully and have someone sit in the driver seat.

Just load it enough that it is close to being lifted off. All you are really doing, like you mentioned, is loading up the suspension so that when you put it on the ground it's not under a ton of tension. It's really a ballpark measurement, and something that I would not worry too much about.

Good luck.

[ttrinh9]

Hi guy. First time posting here as I am planning a front end suspension refresh in the near future. As I am looking for parts for my car, I can across the front thrust arm and noticed that one side comes with a bushing pre-pressed already but the ball joint seems to be sold separately? Is a new ball joint necessary? And if I do purchase the balljoint seperately, is a ball joint press needed to install them onto the thrust arm?? Thanks in advance for the inputs!

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by ttrinh9

Hi guy. First time posting here as I am planning a front end suspension refresh in the near future. As I am looking for parts for my car, I can across the front thrust arm and noticed that one side comes with a bushing pre-pressed already but the ball joint seems to be sold separately? Is a new ball joint necessary? And if I do purchase the balljoint seperately, is a ball joint press needed to install them onto the thrust arm?? Thanks in advance for the inputs!

That's not the correct thrust arm for a RWD E90.

[ttrinh9]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

That's not the correct thrust arm for a RWD E90.

I actually have the n55 335XI e90.