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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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2011 - E90 - Full Install Project - Completed
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06-13-2012, 09:21 AM | #89 | |
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06-13-2012, 09:44 AM | #90 |
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lol. it is basically plug and play....
parts are dirt cheap and all u have to do is solder/crimp 2 wires to the vibe speaker and the other side plugs into the existing OEM plug in the car. |
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06-14-2012, 04:36 PM | #93 | |
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07-04-2012, 07:31 AM | #94 |
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Question on Jumpers for SWS
B33M3R, an excellent write up - which I will be using almost to the letter for my install, as I have gone for nearly the same setup.
One thing that I have not understood though is the Technic 'Jumpers' that you used when connecting the SWS's. Do you use the OEM cables for the under seat subs? Are the jumpers used just to convert the OEM connectors to compatible connections for the SWS? |
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07-04-2012, 08:39 AM | #95 |
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On the 'Base' system the mid's in the doors and under seats are on the same front channels in parallel. If you are looking to power the under seats separately you need to unplug them from the front channels and run new speaker wires to these, from an amp etc. Technic sells custom cables with the correct plugs that fit into the under seats, if you are keeping the OE under seats but just amping separately, this makes things easy. If you are replacing the speakers with something else, SWS8's, Jenherts, SSMB8's etc. you don't need these cables as the connection to the after market speakers will not need the OE plug. You can use any suitable gauge speaker wire. Unless you are going to run new speaker wires to power the front mid's, for example using Technics harness, you will need to bridge the OE under seat plugs which powered the under seats, that are now left not connected to anything. The jumpers sit in those plugs, bridging that circuit, allowing the mid's to work with the under seats not connected. Does that help?
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F31 335d M Sport XD - Mineral Grey - Coral Red - 19" 442M - HK Audio - M Sport Plus Pack - Heated Seats Check out my E90stereo install guide - http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540954 |
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07-04-2012, 11:29 AM | #96 |
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Ahh that makes perfect sense now. Thanks.
I will be replacing with SWS8's and therefore will need to run new cable for these. I was contemplating running new cable also to the Front doors (where I'm putting focals 100KRS) - but this is mainly because I think I'll struggle to get the focal crossover in the door (I've got an E93). I like your idea of using the MS-8 to power the Centre and rears and was thinking of doing the same - are you still pleased with that setup -any problems with PDC gongs etc.? |
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07-04-2012, 03:26 PM | #97 |
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Hi
Can't take credit for using the MS8 to power the centre and rears, I think a few others had done that first but it's certainly worth doing! I think you will struggle with the cross overs in the doors, I believe it can be done though, might be an idea to have the doors off and have a play. It's very easy! If you've not bought the Focals yet I'd seriously consider first just adding a centre and running everything off the MS8. The results are remarkable, the under seats really wake up as well. The Focals are great speakers no doubt about that, although after hearing them compared to some Morels in a friends similar setup I have to say the Morels pipped it for me, they sounded "warmer" if that makes sense? That said, it could have just be down to the better amp the Morels were playing on (XD600/6), compared to my Focals being powered by a rather low end JBL amp. I think the first thing I would change out in my setup would be the amp. If you are going the Focal route I've found reducing the tweeter cross overs to -6db, despite the manual suggesting they be set at 0db when in the tweeter sail locations, far better. Unless you like nose bleeds. They can be a bit over powering! I've had no issues with PDC bongs, front and rear work perfectly as long as you remember to feed all four channels into the MS8. I believe you lose front and rear separation, but front and rear PDC bongs sound different anyway, plus there's the image on the idrive if you have it. I do get Bluetooth echo on hands free if I have the phone volume too loud during a call, keep it reasonable though and this isn't really an issue. There is a firmware update for the MS8 to allow you to knock off the processing during a call to stop this entirely. I've not bothered updating though as, like I said its not a big issue.
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F31 335d M Sport XD - Mineral Grey - Coral Red - 19" 442M - HK Audio - M Sport Plus Pack - Heated Seats Check out my E90stereo install guide - http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540954 |
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07-04-2012, 05:03 PM | #98 |
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Focals arrived today, so I'm stuck with them now. I haven't ordered the sws8's yet though so I'm interested to try the ms-8 before I swap the the under seats out. I can't find the sws's for less than £150 each which is quite annoying compared to the us price, but after reading all the feedback I guess I'll still go for them. I haven't decided on amp yet but was considering an alpine class d 4 channel ( trying to keep size down due to very limited boot space, and keep price reasonable).
Thanks for the help, I'm sure I'll have some more questions, especially once the ms-8 is in. Next step is to order the harness from technic. |
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07-04-2012, 06:06 PM | #99 |
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really good advice from B33M3R.
if you're getting a sub in your boot at a later date, i'd recommend getting woofers that are designed to be true mid bass drivers. ideally you want drivers for each freq range; sub bass, mid bass, mid range and hi, so your music can reproduce as much of the frequency range as possible. the jehnert xe200 are considered to be excellent at this but there are also other good options like the morel admw 9 (expensive). the jehnerts play mid bass better than the sws but not so good on sub bass, but thats fine if your adding a sub later. if not then stick with the sws, which is a better sub bass driver. i would also recommend getting an xd600/6. i know its more expensive than others (£360) but it is worth it. this way you can amp all your front stage, including the centre, and leave rears on ms-8. for the ms-8 to work at its best, you want equal power & sensitivity to all front speakers. one way to achieve this without amping the centre is to get a 2ohm highly efficient speaker, like a kappa 42.9. this way the ms-8 can feed more power as its less resistant, and also benefit from the high sensitivity. but using this method, what you gain in centre SPL, you will lose in centre SQ. so really, if your goal is to keep SQ high you want a similar sensitivity rated centre speaker to your focals, and feed it the same power (or a lower sensitive speaker but feed it more power. there are online calculators to work this out). for example i have morel dotechs and an integra centre, both rated at 88db@2.83v and all getting roughly 60-75w. this way system balance is easier to achieve, and you can hear the full potential of the ms-8. i would also recommend taking your time with your upgrades. this way you will save money and also get the best equipment. its better to wait and get something good rather than get whats affordable now. you're doing the right thing by doing your own research. DO NOT trust any of these car audio "specialist" shops, unless you know for a fact they know what they are doing. |
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07-05-2012, 08:19 AM | #100 |
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Thanks for the tips. I'll spend a bit of time deciding on the amp and centre speaker now. (I hadn't really considered the matching of the centre to the fronts )
I'm trying to avoid adding a sub in the boot (lack of space in the e93) and I'd like to keep it stock where possible. So I'll probably stick with the SWS8's, but first I'll add the MS-8 and see from there. Harness has just been ordered from technic, so I'll hopefully make a start soon. |
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12-30-2012, 09:00 AM | #102 |
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Thanks, good luck
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F31 335d M Sport XD - Mineral Grey - Coral Red - 19" 442M - HK Audio - M Sport Plus Pack - Heated Seats Check out my E90stereo install guide - http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540954 |
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01-12-2013, 03:48 AM | #105 |
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I have been lurking on this forum for a while now and have just joined so i can post too. Really great and interesting article which i have gone through a number of times. I like what seems like everyone is dissapointed with the stock sound system. I have been buying kit, but will be going a slightly different route.
I have the base system and added a parrot for hands free. My car is a very basic spec with rear sensors heated seats and zenons. Other than that no mod cons. So i am looking at replacing the headunit route. This does seem to be a route that is not popular as you loose functionality, but i have researched and it would appear that connect does a harness to retain gongs and parking sensors. So i will ask my sterio guy to make up a harness so i can plug in the OE Head unit if and when any coding is needed. I am looking at getting a headunit with DSP and time alignment. I think the parrot is a good device, but the battery on the controller lasts around 3 months and then i loose functionality until i make a trip to Maplin which is anoying so having a headunit with the Bluetooth intergrated would be a bonus. I also find the sound quality from Ipod makes my music unlistenable. The top end units seems to have DAC's which massivly improve MP3 quality. I wanted to get components, but had to trim back on costs of more exspensive speakers and buying the surrounds for the tweeter so I have bought the MB Quart replacement speakers front and rear which are 60w RMS and nearer 13cm in size and are a direct plug and play replacement. I have also bought from BMW the speaker conector blocks so no splicing of cables will be needed and the work is easily reversible. I have Genesis profile 4 amplifiers which has very good SQ and is rated at 4x50wrms and the mono which is 550wrms in 2 ohm. They are very slim amps and i have measured them and they will mount under the floor if i build a MDF floor and have the bulk of the amp below the surface with the top of the amp level with the floor. I have also foudn a chap in Shefield that makes fiberglass bass enclosures that sit in the boot well and are flush to the underside of the boot floor. In this i plan to fit a Diamond Audio 10" Dual voice coil subwoofer. Then my false floor will have a hole cut to allow the sound waves out covered in a grill and carpeted so that to all but the keenest eyes it would look stock. I have no intention to take over your thread but am not allowed to make my own yet, but this thread has been really inspirational for me. Last edited by sohlman; 01-12-2013 at 03:50 AM.. Reason: spelling mistake |
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01-12-2013, 06:24 AM | #106 | |
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But what aftermarket HU are you going for? I am also thinking for going down the aftermarket HU.
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F36 Xdrive for her - HUD, park assist, heated steering wheel, rear camera, Apple car play
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01-12-2013, 11:51 AM | #107 |
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Sorry i don't mean to thread jack. I can't make my own post and can only add to someone elses.
There would appear to be three units that offer DSP's, DAC's and time alighnment that are reasonable priced. Also they all offer Ipod control, Bluetooth handfree and CD players within them. Kenwood KDC - BT92SD which is £139.99 and further exspenses would be needed for an Ipod cable. Looks a nice looking unit JVC KD - R90 BT which is £164.99. Not as nice looking, but a better spec to the above with regards to operations and a better DAC and preout Pioneer DEH 80 PRS which is £220. This looks very understated and is not far off the look of the OEM radio. It also has been designed around sound quality and is the best . Reviews are seriously good. There are a couple of Alpine's that claim to do the same, but you have to invest in other boxes and adapters pushing their prices up significantly. There is also a clarion, but i can't find any reviews on this. And then you have a couple of pioneers and Alpine units that are well over £1000. All the above prices are on line from Car audio Security (I have no affiiliation) and don't include fitting. My research indicates that for these single din units you will also need: - Faceplate adapter £10-£20 Steering wheel control and parking sensors / gongs adapter £90 Other leads and conections £30. So i would guestimate at £200 on top of the unit to have all of the above and fitting from a car Ice dealer. The pioneer is my preference, but it's price is pushing an already stretched budget. |
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01-12-2013, 12:22 PM | #108 |
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Your posts do not contribute anything to this thread. You are confusing forum members looking to upgrade their OEM system while keeping their OEM HU.
Post somewhere else until you can create your own thread. There are plenty of other threads related to replacing the OEM HU. |
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01-12-2013, 03:38 PM | #109 |
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Sohlman
You are going on the right track. Going OEM route ends up spending a hell lot of effort and money. Most of members here favour and advocate OEM route and discourage others if they want to go aftermarket HUs. I'm thinking of going for 80PRS but holding my guns. I've reasonable kit and wonders if 80PRS would gain any additional benefit over OEM HU (considering time correction and built-in DSP). Plan is to go active this time. Please start your own thread here or in UK sections and take the things from there on. I could not avoid responding to your comment but when you'll have your thread, this discussion can go on and on...
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F36 Xdrive for her - HUD, park assist, heated steering wheel, rear camera, Apple car play
F36 RWD for him - HK, M sports pack, GTS tail light, Apple car play |
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