Snow Performance Stage 2 Installed Using the Windshield Wiper Fluid Container

R1000K3 · 05-13-2010, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dzenno

Where did you get that scew cap? Great idea..

It is from a fuel canister, the old type that stores the hose inside the canister. I really think it is a must to securely fix the stock cap in one way or another. Before a 335 is put into fire. The stock cap can also be locked with a clamp, but it is probably needed to drill a small hole for ventilation and to prevent under-pressure.

Mr. 5 · 05-13-2010, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R1000K3

I've replaced the cap on the WW container filler with a screw cap. The stock cap self-opens VERY easy when meth is moving around, especially when making a hard right-turn. In case it spills on hot turbos you can barbeque a pig on the hood

That's interesting because I haven't noticed this at all.

dzenno · 05-13-2010, 08:46 AM

Considering these engine bay setups what did you guys do to protect the wiring on the pump from being shorted by water dripping down??

Kevin@AKMotorwerk · 05-13-2010, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bullitt

By any chance, is there a photo of this location? How is it mounted?

its on a plate where the brake lines come down, only problem i seen with that location is how far away from the tank it is, snow says to keep it under 3ft hose length between the pump and tank.

Mr. 5 · 05-13-2010, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dzenno

Considering these engine bay setups what did you guys do to protect the wiring on the pump from being shorted by water dripping down??

I don't understand this question.

R1000K3 · 05-13-2010, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

That's interesting because I haven't noticed this at all.

In such case it may be fine. It seems to differ between cars. My cap has definitely self-opened a few times by just driving the car, and never felt secure when closing it. It was almost completely loose on top of the filler tube. I checked this on another 335 and that cap was better and locked with a click-sound, but still too easy to open IMO.

R1000K3 · 05-13-2010, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dzenno

Considering these engine bay setups what did you guys do to protect the wiring on the pump from being shorted by water dripping down??

Nothing, it is only 14 Volt DC so it will not be shortened by water, and normally there should be no water dripping on the pump except for when you wash the engine bay. The CM pump is a rugged and closed unit and I'm quite sure nothing will happen even if you spray directly on it with water. In case wires are extended it is of course wise to protect wire joints so they are not exposed to water, which will make the joint corroding sooner or later. They can be protected by shrink tube but the important thing is to locate any joints at a high position. A few drips now and then on a wire joint is nothing to worry about though.

dzenno · 05-13-2010, 05:50 PM

Reason I asked was I had an issue with the CMGS kit today/yesterday that turned out to be my fault (bad wire crimp). The pump wouldn't turn on when it should've been turning on and I was puzzled why. Everything else on the VC2 controller worked but when it should've been turning on it wasn't. Through awesome support with dave@coolingmist we sorted it out. One of the crimped short wires on the pump came loose as I didn't do a proper crimp. So one of 2 wires came out loose. Anyhow, just before this was resolved, Dave told me that he's gotten a few pumps back from customers in a defective state and most of the time the problem was due to the pump being exposed to water shorting out the wiring and he said he doesn't advise anyone putting this pump anywhere where water could come in touch with the pump's electricals. I was a bit shocked and at first this hinted at the pump maybe being f*ed but luckily this wasn't the case and it was just a loose wire.

Dave said he'd contact the pump manufacturer and get the details on how water resistant the pumps electricals were. Should have a response pretty soon.

What do you guys think? My pump is right behind the intercooler sitting on the plastic car cover that goes under the car. It sits there very nice and snug but it could potentially see a bit of water (very little) at times (under body car wash pump)...Do we need to insulate these pumps in any way?

R1000K3 · 05-13-2010, 08:50 PM

I don’t think so. The pump is (supposedly) raised a bit on the rubber stands and the bottom cover is drained. So there is no chance the pump will stand under water, unless you drive in deep water...

The stock wires from the pump are long so there is no need to crimp new wires near the pump, it can be done much higher up. In case you have crimped the wires at the bottom, you may want to solder them instead and use waterproof shrink hoses (with melting glue) to protect the joints.

I have been driving a lot in heavy rain and the car has been heavily sprayed with water underneath without any problems.

05-13-2010, 08:46 AM	#91
dzenno Banned 299 Rep 5,876 Posts Drives: Join Date: Feb 2006 iTrader: (1)	Considering these engine bay setups what did you guys do to protect the wiring on the pump from being shorted by water dripping down??
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05-13-2010, 05:50 PM	#96
dzenno Banned 299 Rep 5,876 Posts Drives: Join Date: Feb 2006 iTrader: (1)	Reason I asked was I had an issue with the CMGS kit today/yesterday that turned out to be my fault (bad wire crimp). The pump wouldn't turn on when it should've been turning on and I was puzzled why. Everything else on the VC2 controller worked but when it should've been turning on it wasn't. Through awesome support with dave@coolingmist we sorted it out. One of the crimped short wires on the pump came loose as I didn't do a proper crimp. So one of 2 wires came out loose. Anyhow, just before this was resolved, Dave told me that he's gotten a few pumps back from customers in a defective state and most of the time the problem was due to the pump being exposed to water shorting out the wiring and he said he doesn't advise anyone putting this pump anywhere where water could come in touch with the pump's electricals. I was a bit shocked and at first this hinted at the pump maybe being f*ed but luckily this wasn't the case and it was just a loose wire. Dave said he'd contact the pump manufacturer and get the details on how water resistant the pumps electricals were. Should have a response pretty soon. What do you guys think? My pump is right behind the intercooler sitting on the plastic car cover that goes under the car. It sits there very nice and snug but it could potentially see a bit of water (very little) at times (under body car wash pump)...Do we need to insulate these pumps in any way?
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05-13-2010, 08:50 PM	#97
R1000K3 Major 60 Rep 1,311 Posts Drives: 335i MT Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: USA iTrader: (0)	I don’t think so. The pump is (supposedly) raised a bit on the rubber stands and the bottom cover is drained. So there is no chance the pump will stand under water, unless you drive in deep water... The stock wires from the pump are long so there is no need to crimp new wires near the pump, it can be done much higher up. In case you have crimped the wires at the bottom, you may want to solder them instead and use waterproof shrink hoses (with melting glue) to protect the joints. I have been driving a lot in heavy rain and the car has been heavily sprayed with water underneath without any problems.
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