[Mcardona96]

Hey there my good people! I’ve had some small issues (at least in my opinion) with a vibration that started out small to a violent level of vibration/shakiness throughout the whole car.

My vehicle is a 2011 328i and I’ve had the car close to 2 years now. The vehicle is completely stock and there are absolutely no modifications and/or upgrades.

Back to the issue. The vibration starts kicking in when I near 40mph but only goes on for a moment then the vibration stops. After that when I near maybe 60mph it starts again for a moment then stops as I hit higher speed. That is on a normal day. On some other days when I hit 40mph the vibration persist as long as I’m pressing on the gas and the only way to stop the vibration as I’m driving is to let go of the gas or really over step on the gas like excessively. The extreme vibration almost always happens when driving uphill.

Last year I took the car to a shop that specializes in BMW only. The technician that test drove my car was guessing that it had something to do with the “bushing arm”. He later said they could look into it deeper by connecting it to a “special computer” that was going to pinpoint the root of the problem and cost pretty much an arm and a leg. No way I was going to do that for a diagnostic check that’s on steroids lol.


Any advice would be appreciated guys! I’ll hear from you guys soon enough

[Bmw1939]

Originally Posted by Mcardona96

Hey there my good people! I’ve had some small issues (at least in my opinion) with a vibration that started out small to a violent level of vibration/shakiness throughout the whole car.

My vehicle is a 2011 328i and I’ve had the car close to 2 years now. The vehicle is completely stock and there are absolutely no modifications and/or upgrades.

Back to the issue. The vibration starts kicking in when I near 40mph but only goes on for a moment then the vibration stops. After that when I near maybe 60mph it starts again for a moment then stops as I hit higher speed. That is on a normal day. On some other days when I hit 40mph the vibration persist as long as I’m pressing on the gas and the only way to stop the vibration as I’m driving is to let go of the gas or really over step on the gas like excessively. The extreme vibration almost always happens when driving uphill.

Last year I took the car to a shop that specializes in BMW only. The technician that test drove my car was guessing that it had something to do with the “bushing arm”. He later said they could look into it deeper by connecting it to a “special computer” that was going to pinpoint the root of the problem and cost pretty much an arm and a leg. No way I was going to do that for a diagnostic check that’s on steroids lol.


Any advice would be appreciated guys! I’ll hear from you guys soon enough

Torque converter. What trans do you have? Gm? If so, the solution to this is change trans fluid and add lubegard shudder fix.

[Mcardona96]

I have the automatic transmission with steptronic. Also, what do you mean GM?
I know when it comes to the maintenance for these type of cars it can be a little spendy. What kind of numbers am I looking at in terms of the cost for a fix like this?

[marvinstockman]

Check for a dragging brake.

[Bmw1939]

Originally Posted by Mcardona96

I have the automatic transmission with steptronic. Also, what do you mean GM?
I know when it comes to the maintenance for these type of cars it can be a little spendy. What kind of numbers am I looking at in terms of the cost for a fix like this?

Your car has a GM or ZF transmission, bmw doesn't make transmissions and uses those in these cars. I'm guessing it is GM. You have all the symptoms of the torque converter shudder problem. Research it. An indy shop may charge a couple hundred bucks. Valvoline max life drain and fill with lubegard shudder fix.

[Mcardona96]

Alright man, I’m going to look into this. Appreciate your help. Thank you. If you have anything else to add when you see this so would appreciate that too!!

[Bmw1939]

Originally Posted by Mcardona96

Alright man, I’m going to look into this. Appreciate your help. Thank you. If you have anything else to add when you see this so would appreciate that too!!

Just report back here once you resolve it to help others in the future.

[Mcardona96]

Update. 3 months later and still haven’t been able to fix this issue. But I did try a couple things that I thought it could’ve help. I got an alignment done and I also got the tires balanced. My next guess is probably the flex disk near the drivetrain. At this point I’m just guessing. I know to get the transmission checked out is going to be costly so I’m shooting for the cheaper and potential cases before moving forward to that.

[e90yyc]

Thank you for posting back with an update.

I have to say though: The reason you still have the issue is because you haven’t actually tried the thing that’s most likely to fix your issue.

I can appreciate having limited funds, but we’re talking a fluid change here, not a transmission replacement. Worst case it doesn’t solve your problem and you’ve performed maintenance that should be done anyway. On the other hand, while having a proper alignment and balanced wheels is a good thing, the issue you described is clearly not related to either of those.

The cheapest option is the one that actually solves your issue.

[TitanLH8]

There was an extensive thread about this a few years back. Their ultimate solution was to replace the torque converter, which is not a cheap fix.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1201992

[e91Owner]

This is likely one of two things. As already been said, the most common culprit is the torque converter. Adding a shudder fix tube or two to the old fluid should fix that within a few cycles and what was essentially done during the ISB for this problem. $15 fix if that works.

The second potential problem is a weak ignition coil. Not weak enough to through a misfire code, but weak enough to cause poor ignition.

I had the same symptoms as you for a few years. Matched the ISB symptoms exactly. First time, I changed the transmission fluid and added shudder fix.

Problem went away for about two years and came back. Repeated the same fix, but no dice this time. Problem persisted. Decided to change out my 10 year old coils just as preventative mx and as a stroke of luck, this solved the problem. There are some ISBs on this as well, but they are not as specific on symptoms, so it didn’t really dawn on me in the absence of a misfire code.

[marvinstockman]

Is the vibration in the steering wheel, or is it in the floor/body of the car?

Do you get the vibration when you're in neutral and coasting down a long hill?

[Bims328i]

I sort of had this same issue which has since been resolved by dropping the AT pan, replacing the filter and adding a tube of shudder fixx (5.2qt refill). Uphill shuddering, shudder around 40, goes away about 60ish or if using sport mode. I would recommend using exact factory fluid so you're not mixing the factory stuff and something else. Just my opinion.

Car has been driving like a dream.

Further details:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...1498374&page=3

[e90yyc]

If you go the route of TC replacement, I have a used and working TC I pulled from my car that I’d sell for next to nothing.

That said, if you aren’t DIYing, my honest opinion is that rebuilt is the only way to go. This is one of those unfortunate jobs where labor makes up the overwhelming majority of the total cost. And even if you are DIYing it, I’d still recommend rebuilt for peace of mind given how involved and lengthy this job is.

Hopefully a tube of Shudderguard or similar fixes your issue. Lots of success stories with that, so from what I understand there’s a good chance that’s all you’ll need!

[Mcardona96]

Originally Posted by e90yyc

If you go the route of TC replacement, I have a used and working TC I pulled from my car that I’d sell for next to nothing.

That said, if you aren’t DIYing, my honest opinion is that rebuilt is the only way to go. This is one of those unfortunate jobs where labor makes up the overwhelming majority of the total cost. And even if you are DIYing it, I’d still recommend rebuilt for peace of mind given how involved and lengthy this job is.

Hopefully a tube of Shudderguard or similar fixes your issue. Lots of success stories with that, so from what I understand there’s a good chance that’s all you’ll need!

Then I shall get the transmission fluid changed and add lubegard. Really hoping this fixes it. Going 2.5 years now with this issue.

[Mcardona96]

Originally Posted by marvinstockman

Is the vibration in the steering wheel, or is it in the floor/body of the car?

Do you get the vibration when you're in neutral and coasting down a long hill?

The vibration is within the whole car. It’s not even in the steering wheel. I feel it especially in the driver seat. I haven’t tried it in neutral, so I’ll have to try that next time I’m going downhill.

[Mcardona96]

Originally Posted by Bims328i

I sort of had this same issue which has since been resolved by dropping the AT pan, replacing the filter and adding a tube of shudder fixx (5.2qt refill). Uphill shuddering, shudder around 40, goes away about 60ish or if using sport mode. I would recommend using exact factory fluid so you're not mixing the factory stuff and something else. Just my opinion.

Car has been driving like a dream.

Further details:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1498374&page=3

Thank you for the further info!! Definitely relatable to my issue. Kinda does stop for a little in sport mode.

[Mcardona96]

Originally Posted by e90yyc

Thank you for posting back with an update.

I have to say though: The reason you still have the issue is because you haven’t actually tried the thing that’s most likely to fix your issue.

I can appreciate having limited funds, but we’re talking a fluid change here, not a transmission replacement. Worst case it doesn’t solve your problem and you’ve performed maintenance that should be done anyway. On the other hand, while having a proper alignment and balanced wheels is a good thing, the issue you described is clearly not related to either of those.

The cheapest option is the one that actually solves your issue.

Will definitely look into that. Not only considering the funds aspect but also not having the tools/equipment to DIY. Spent already close to $250 both alignment and tire balance. Might as well take in again for this fix 👍

[e90yyc]

Originally Posted by Mcardona96

Then I shall get the transmission fluid changed and add lubegard. Really hoping this fixes it. Going 2.5 years now with this issue.

Whole-car vibration certainly supports the idea that it’s TC related.

Fingers crossed for you!

[Bims328i]

Updating that the car is still running and shifting great with no shuddering after chaning the fluid and filter. I'm am fairly certain is has something to do with fluid dynamics within the TC and perhaps it is the old fluid that causes the shuddering but that was what I was experiencing. I've felt a center shaft mount / bearing which is more of a thudding in first/ second but this made the whole car shudder. I had been dealing with it for at least two years. Still want to drain and fill at least once more soon. Hope the drain and filter replacement works for you!