[justpete]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

That's legit.

Thanks, the race team car chief came up with that, damn clever I thought. He also rigged rear brake cooling by modifying the rocker panels and Aero rocker covers. Not that it matters but it was fun fer shits-n-grins.

[Toome]

Originally Posted by justpete

Thanks, the race team car chief came up with that, damn clever I thought. He also rigged rear brake cooling by modifying the rocker panels and Aero rocker covers. Not that it matters but it was fun fer shits-n-grins.

That's legit hahaha

[justpete]

Managed to forget these pics. The part for the M235iR should be orderable and the duct is just standard brake duct 'crushed' into an oval shape, its wire reinforcement keeps its shape.

[Toome]

Originally Posted by justpete

Thanks. I never had any problem with cold bite running the XP10s year round and they never ate rotors. They seem to be pretty friendly street/track pads except they will squeal but that didn't bother me. The Pagid RS29 pads squeal a bit worse but they also have great cold bite and hellacious stopping power although they're stoopid pricey.

I should note that the Pagid pads are working against two piece floating rotors with the ABS and stability systems entirely defeated. So it _seems_ easier to get the car to stop faster as it's easy to lock up the brakes, which was the whole point in my setup. Tires are the same and so is the applied brake torque so the car isn't really stopping faster but it sure feels like it.

Good to know. I think I'll be going with XP10's because I can't find a set of RS29's for the rear. I definitely want to keep the ABS and stability systems working since this is a street car.

Originally Posted by justpete

Just noticed kittenless downpipe....lol

The BMS forum censors catless so that was my solution lol.

Originally Posted by Jerain

-Steel brake lines
-Castrol SRF fluid
-Pagid yellow brake pads
-Drilled or slotted discs

Maybe route some extra brake ducting

Done

Minus the brake ducting, that sounds like the path I'm going to take.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Toome

Good to know. I think I'll be going with XP10's because I can't find a set of RS29's for the rear. I definitely want to keep the ABS and stability systems working since this is a street car.


The BMS forum censors catless so that was my solution lol.

Didn't know that, a tad over the top censoring, kinda weird in a way.

FWIW, when the car's out of the shop I drive it everywhere, getting grocery, to work, Starbucks, etc. I just try to avoid driving it in the rain.

[Toome]

Originally Posted by justpete

Didn't know that, a tad over the top censoring, kinda weird in a way.

FWIW, when the car's out of the shop I drive it everywhere, getting grocery, to work, Starbucks, etc. I just try to avoid driving it in the rain.

Yeah they went a bit over the top after California went after them for emissions reasons.

How dangerous would it be to drive something like a XP10 compound in the rain?

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Toome

How dangerous would it be to drive something like a XP10 compound in the rain?

Before the ABS/stability system was disabled I put 20K miles on XP10s year round, no issues whatsoever.

[Toome]

Originally Posted by justpete

Before the ABS/stability system was disabled I put 20K miles on XP10s year round, no issues whatsoever.

Perfect. I think I've made up my mind:

- Motul RBF600
- Stoptech slotted rotors (front and rear)
- Carbotech XP10's (front and rear)
- SS brake lines (brand TBD)

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Toome

Perfect. I think I've made up my mind:

- Motul RBF600
- Stoptech slotted rotors (front and rear)
- Carbotech XP10's (front and rear)
- SS brake lines (brand TBD)

I ran slotted Stoptech rotors for a short while, they do create more dust as they shave the pads a bit more. And they have less surface area for the pads to work against so they're technically not as good as solid rotors but that's a small difference. I didn't like the sound/wear/vibration and bailed back to Zimmerman until the last pass through the shop when the front rotor was changed to a RacingBrake part and the rear to an e46 M3 CSL rotor.

[Toome]

Originally Posted by justpete

I ran slotted Stoptech rotors for a short while, they do create more dust as they shave the pads a bit more. And they have less surface area for the pads to work against so they're technically not as good as solid rotors but that's a small difference. I didn't like the sound/wear/vibration and bailed back to Zimmerman until the last pass through the shop when the front rotor was changed to a RacingBrake part and the rear to an e46 M3 CSL rotor.

So you have had more success at the track with stock rotors and running a more aggressive pad?

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Toome

So you have had more success at the track with stock rotors and running a more aggressive pad?

Not really enough to tell, really. The solid rotors worked just fine, less vibration, less noise, less cost, works for me. ymmv

[DoubleParked]

Does rotor choice really make much difference?

Pad material is huge though, DOT pad codes are very interesting.
http://faculty.ccbcmd.edu/~smacadof/DOTPadCodes.htm

The first letter of the two-character code is usually the coefficient of friction at 250* F, and the second letter is the friction at 600* F. OEM is typically EE. Speaking from experience, GG is awesome and worth the search.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...friciton-codes

[lwarren0074]

I JUST replaced the pads/rotors on my '07 E91 using Brembo rotors and Cool Carbon pads. Did a full fluid flush with ATE 200 Gold. Now I stop on a dime. The initial brake pedal feeling is like "wood" but I'm still bedding the pads.

[Toome]

Bump