[txusa03]

^ thanks for sharing with us that you can use the lower banjo bolt to drain as well. Great DIY and additional comments/contributions in this thread!

[minus13]

I strongly recommend that you use the "less messy" method and stay away from draining via the banjo bolt unless you have a torque wrench set to 26lbs. and new washers. It is very easy to over-torque the washer. If you over-torque the washer, the washer will warp, and you'll be starting all over again. The angle you have to take from up top makes it very difficult to judge the amount of force to put on the bolt.

USE A TORQUE WRENCH!

Good luck guys!

[ENINTY]

I just removed the two banjo bolts on the steering rack, and let the hoses drain. Then I opened up the line that runs over to the right side of the rack by removing the flair nut and pulling the line out. I then just flushed the rest of the oil out using low pressure shop air in the oriface the line was in. I reassembled the line, flipped the crush washers over, retightened the banjo bolts, and refilled and bled the system. Not rocket science. Not sure how you get a torque wrench on the banjo bolt heads to torque them down. Just don't be an ape with it and stop tightening when the bolt stops.

[minus13]

Originally Posted by ENINTY

I just removed the two banjo bolts on the steering rack, and let the hoses drain. Then I opened up the line that runs over to the right side of the rack by removing the flair nut and pulling the line out. I then just flushed the rest of the oil out using low pressure shop air in the oriface the line was in. I reassembled the line, flipped the crush washers over, retightened the banjo bolts, and refilled and bled the system. Not rocket science. Not sure how you get a torque wrench on the banjo bolt heads to torque them down. Just don't be an ape with it and stop tightening when the bolt stops.

There you go. Not rocket science. Don't use a torque wrench. Torque specs are just for show.

Anyway, it's just my recommendation to use a torque wrench. Flipping washers didn't work for me.

P.S. I'm an ape.

[minus13]

If you are draining per instructions on first post, you want part number 07119906464 x2.

Ask me how I know.

[AlanAZ]

Mea culpa. Post edited.

[duaux]

Thanks for correcting the part#, not that they are expensive, just a pain to go back and forth for some if we buy the wrong part!

[bimmertt]

does the old fluid come out of the rack, hoses, or both?

[jkas1984]

I just ordered a litre of ATF fluid and two crush washers from my local dealer.
They said there are various types of ATF fluid for the e90 and using my chassis number they have the right oil, they also said it has no spec details on it to cross reference it with castrol or Mobil etc
1 ltr oil = £9
Two washers = £0.34

A litre of castrol was over £10 delivered so it's a no brainier really head down to the dealers for the right gear!

[smellfish]

This DIY was spot on. Did this a few weeks back. Car took nearly the whole liter of new fluid. Pump quieted right down after the 3rd or 4th cycle of the steering wheel back and forth.

[TheTal0n]

Im just wondering, Do we need to use new washers? Has anyone just taken their old washer in to autozone or somthing and matched it with one from there? or oder only?

[Motohip]

I just did my car with 73k miles and it's so much better! I hesitated cause the fluid didn't seem that dirty then I decided just to do it and i'm so glad I did. Before I had to use gorilla force to turn the wheel which I thought was normal cause it was like that the day I got it (used), now it's so much easier to turn!

[duaux]

OK. So I was planning to do the DIY, but I just don't have time...

I bought all the ATF fluid, washers, along with other maintenance items I have been queuing, etc and brought it to a local indy BMW mech (sponsor here on e90post), and found out that my fluid needs 11S and not ATF fluid... WTF?

My cap says ATF fluid

My Indy Mechanic (who is a BMW trained mech):
The mechanic's analysis is that the cap is "wrong" based on two things:
1. His experience tells him that all the E90's he has dealt with in the Toronto area have a "green sticker saying 11S" that goes on top of the "ATF cap". Mine did not have the sticker, that is why I brought him a bottle of ATF fluid.

He also noted this his own two race cars, 2006 E90's are 11S for the power steering.

2. He also assured me that he took some fluid out to "look at it" and he says it is 11S "without a doubt". Based on years of use, the sticker could/would have "come off" of the cap.

Please mind you my conversation was over the phone.
I told him I would call him back to see if I can confirm with the dealership. I was hoping that just *maybe the dealer could confirm via the VIN or something.

Dealership:
1. They can not confirm the power steering fluid type my car via VIN#.
2. They did confirm that E90's do come in both 11S (about 90%) and ATF (about 10%) giving me a round number off his head.

My Indy Mechanic:
1. I called him back, and he reassures me that he is very confident that it requires 11S and not ATF.
2. I should trust him right? I made the call to have him flush it fully using OEM 11S fluid.

FINGERS CROSS I hope this does not damage my power steering system...

Did I just make a mistake? I am kind of worried now, but the mechanic has more experience than us on this forum right?

:::EDIT:::
I found this thread which has good pictures showing the 11S sticker...
This makes me feel better!
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=12233031

I think the CAUTION I am trying to share with everyone... it is not as simple as looking at the power steering cap.

Be careful.

[woodpecka]

Originally Posted by duaux

OK. So I was planning to do the DIY, but I just don't have time...

I bought all the ATF fluid, washers, along with other maintenance items I have been queuing, etc and brought it to a local indy BMW mech (sponsor here on e90post), and found out that my fluid needs 11S and not ATF fluid... WTF?

My cap says ATF fluid

My Indy Mechanic (who is a BMW trained mech):
The mechanic's analysis is that the cap is "wrong" based on two things:
1. His experience tells him that all the E90's he has dealt with in the Toronto area have a "green sticker saying 11S" that goes on top of the "ATF cap". Mine did not have the sticker, that is why I brought him a bottle of ATF fluid.

He also noted this his own two race cars, 2006 E90's are 11S for the power steering.

2. He also assured me that he took some fluid out to "look at it" and he says it is 11S "without a doubt". Based on years of use, the sticker could/would have "come off" of the cap.

Please mind you my conversation was over the phone.
I told him I would call him back to see if I can confirm with the dealership. I was hoping that just *maybe the dealer could confirm via the VIN or something.

Dealership:
1. They can not confirm the power steering fluid type my car via VIN#.
2. They did confirm that E90's do come in both 11S (about 90%) and ATF (about 10%) giving me a round number off his head.

My Indy Mechanic:
1. I called him back, and he reassures me that he is very confident that it requires 11S and not ATF.
2. I should trust him right? I made the call to have him flush it fully using OEM 11S fluid.

FINGERS CROSS I hope this does not damage my power steering system...

Did I just make a mistake? I am kind of worried now, but the mechanic has more experience than us on this forum right?

:::EDIT:::
I found this thread which has good pictures showing the 11S sticker...
This makes me feel better!
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=12233031

I think the CAUTION I am trying to share with everyone... it is not as simple as looking at the power steering cap.

Be careful.

Fyi, my 325xi 2006 has the green 11s sticker.

[Surly73]

My Canadian 2007 328i has the green sticker. If it came off, the mold for the cap may indeed say ABS (because all of the other BMWs I've worked on use ATF as you assumed). I have 11S coming from Amazon to do my change.

[duaux]

Update:

When I got back in the shop, my mechanic showed me how easy it was for the sticker to come off. He also made a comment that the "dealer parts" guy are not mechanics can not confirm through BMW. e.g., He was basically saying the "parts guy" don't know what they are talking about as he claims 100% certainty that all E90's are suppose to be CHF-11S for power steering.

Anyways, he is a respected indy BMW mech here in Toronto... so I am reassured.

***Unless someone on this board can confirm that they bought their E90 brand new with the ATF permanently etched on it without any sticker over it, then the assumption is that all E90's are required to be CHF-11S for power steering.

If you bought your E90 second hand and your reservoir cap says ATF on it, the sticker could have came off.

Bottom line, if you are unsure, look at the fluid that is in the reservoir itself...
I don't know the visual difference between ATF and 11S fluid , so if someone can bullet point the difference out, that would be helpful for others.

[mthomas]

The 11s smells different

[Surly73]

I haven't opened my can of 11S yet, but I believe it's dark green from what I've seen online. I will post again when I've seen it firsthand.

You can also look up your serial# in RealOEM, if the PS reservoir parts diagram shows the 11S sticker listed in the table - you need 11S (and a new sticker).

[Pittsburger]

This is a good dyi.

I found it easy to be clumsy with the ps fluid. So i am staying with the convenient method.

[chinna_n]

Posting incase if some one ran into crushed banjo washers situation and washers are not on hand:

TIP: When I ran into similar issue on high pressure hydraulic systems, I overlaid(wrapped) banjo washer with teflon tape (white) and reused those.

But make sure you are not putting too much teflon tape, and wrap it properly as it may potentially block banjo bolt holes if excess tape get in the way.

[chinna_n]

Just replaced power steering fluid reservoir as there is oil oozing. Also oil has typical hydraulic oil burned smell.

Flushed the system as per the first post. Drove on to ramps, Jacked up car with hydraulic Floor jack(not a low profile) in the center. Supported with two Jack stands.Wheels in the air with ramps also as safety precaution.

But first I removed all oil using mighty vac from reservoir, and some from reservoir hoses. Drained remaining oil using banjo bolt. Made 4 end to end steering rotations. After everything seemed drained out, I added some fluid to reservoir. To my surprise some more old oil drained from Banjo bolt. After that I tightened Banjo bolt, filled the reservoir, turned steering to left and right all the way 5 times.

Started the engine for about 15 seconds,
turned off, filled more,
started the car again for 30 seconds. Refilled again.
Next started the car, steered slowly to left and then right (no stalling yet). 5 cycles.
Next two cycles, I stalled at left and right to build the pressure so that I can see if system has any leaks. Everything good. It almost took 850+ml.

Since I raised the car, I went ahead and changed the Oil and filter.This is first time I changed oil myself.I always felt it is not worth the effort as $20 shops change oil filter. Not so with BMW.

Though it was driven only 4k miles by previous owner after oil change, oil was changed almost a year ago.Oil seemed in good condition though. Anyways, I did an adventure against many suggestion by gurus in this forum and used Royal Purple 0W-40. I will report back my observations.

Checked system for all leaks, the reinstalled the bottom covers and went for a test drive. Blasted around for 20min and parked for the day!

[left123]

I followed the "less messy technique" today of "Mthomas" in post 43 here, minus messing with the serpentine belt and it worked great. I have an 06 330i as well. A few notes:

1. I used a turkey baster to draw fluid out of the reservoir before undoing the banjo bolt (this minimizes the mess under the car).

2. I put Al foil over the rubber accordian-type cover on the steering rack that is directly below the banjo bolt to keep it from getting dirty (see picture). I also crafted an Al foil funnel to feed all fluid to my catch pan.

3. I took off the airbox to facilitate top access to the banjo bolt (which is actually decent, better than from below in my opinion). See the e90 N52 Airbox Removal DIY HERE. After removing the airbox, I covered the open air inlet so as to not contaminate the engine.

4. I replaced the aluminum crush washers at a wopping $0.67/ea at the dealership. Worth the peace of mind.

5. When draining the fluid via turning the wheel, I advise you have your drivers door open and turn the wheel as you watch the fluid drain under the car. I was able to monitor it actively so I knew when to stop. I turned it back and forth ~5-10 times, going fairly slowly.

6. I was able to refill ~90-95% of the 1L of pentosin CHF-11s, so this procedure is pretty good at getting lots of fluid out.

7. Per the torque spec (26 ftlb), I have a rather long torque wrench and there's no feasible way to get a torque wrench like mine in there. I decided to just tighten it by feel, and not like an "ape" as others have referenced. Seems fine to me.

8. My 06 330i has 51k miles and quite frankly, the fluid still looked pretty good (still green colored, not dark/black like others have shown). Peace of mind I guess.

9. When doing this, its a good time to replace your coolant if you haven't already. Just make sure the car is level when doing the coolant (mine is currently still up on 4 jack stands).

Below is the aluminum foil mock-up I created to minimize the mess on my car. I didn't want the fluid dripping on the rubber around the steering rack, possibly degrading it over time.