[Larrye90]

Originally Posted by GATORB8

Grabbing the signal there is fine.

So getting the RCA's from the Underseat speakers with a Loc to the amp and then I think they said to connect to the battery there is a connection I can put to fit in the red fuse box in top of the terminal or so? Does anyone know ?

[ctuna]

You seem very confused.
If you are dealing with the stock system there are no RCA's
RCA is just a type of connector anyway.
For wiring a system up you may need RCA's at the Input of the
amp (or cleansweep/dsp) depending on which amp you use.

The power line to the battery and ground are a separate
issue from the speaker. The hot side of the power line needs
a fuse. You can choose to buy a factory connector(which comes
as an option with the Technic Power kit or not.
The other way to hook it up is with an eyelet connector to the
tightening screw on the positive battery lug.
You need to use a cleansweep or dsp between the amp and head unit
a loc wll not correct the bad equalization.

[hdmark]

I think I'm back to option 5. Looking to grab technics harness , and a jl xd400/4v2. It has a sub pass out through. So I'll run the fronts and rears in either series or parallel (not sure if they are 4 ohm or 2 ohm) which will get rid of my fade , but not lose stereo effecr. Then I'll run the undersea with channels 3 and 4. Then eventually when I want to toss a sub in there, I have 2 preamp outputs ready for me I'll toss in a distribution block for the power and grounds and be done!
Now to figure out my speaker options. I think to start I'll just toss in the amp and wire up the harness and be done. Then add speakers as I go?

also - these are just plan adapters right?
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/rfi2sw

i was planning to buy technics 4/4 harness and use these to go from the speaker wire to the amp. just wanted to make sure these dont mess with the signal at all

[GATORB8]

Originally Posted by Larrye90

So getting the RCA's from the Underseat speakers with a Loc to the amp and then I think they said to connect to the battery there is a connection I can put to fit in the red fuse box in top of the terminal or so? Does anyone know ?

I just ordered this:
https://www.ecstuning.com/ES165155/
https://www.ecstuning.com/ES165140/

Basically #14 for a single terminal shown here:

[GATORB8]

Originally Posted by ctuna

You need to use a cleansweep or dsp between the amp and head unit
a loc wll not correct the bad equalization.

While I certainly agree that there is equalization applied by the HU, I'm not sure that everyone will "need" full signal correction to be happy with their setup. There's also the option of using a far less expensive equalizer if lowering the treble on the HU is not sufficient. Hell, every courtesy car I get into has treble and bass maxed out on it, most people must prefer a signal that's already screwed up.

[hdmark]

Originally Posted by GATORB8

While I certainly agree that there is equalization applied by the HU, I'm not sure that everyone will "need" full signal correction to be happy with their setup. There's also the option of using a far less expensive equalizer if lowering the treble on the HU is not sufficient. Hell, every courtesy car I get into has treble and bass maxed out on it, most people must prefer a signal that's already screwed up.

or recode to hifi

[Larrye90]

Originally Posted by ctuna

You seem very confused.
If you are dealing with the stock system there are no RCA's
RCA is just a type of connector anyway.
For wiring a system up you may need RCA's at the Input of the
amp (or cleansweep/dsp) depending on which amp you use.

The power line to the battery and ground are a separate
issue from the speaker. The hot side of the power line needs
a fuse. You can choose to buy a factory connector(which comes
as an option with the Technic Power kit or not.
The other way to hook it up is with an eyelet connector to the
tightening screw on the positive battery lug.
You need to use a cleansweep or dsp between the amp and head unit
a loc wll not correct the bad equalization.

I know there is no RCA's on the base radio but tapping to the Underseat speaker will get me that

[Larrye90]

Originally Posted by GATORB8

While I certainly agree that there is equalization applied by the HU, I'm not sure that everyone will "need" full signal correction to be happy with their setup. There's also the option of using a far less expensive equalizer if lowering the treble on the HU is not sufficient. Hell, every courtesy car I get into has treble and bass maxed out on it, most people must prefer a signal that's already screwed up.

I think we meant the LOC as for the RCA's. But yea I was going to look for the cleansweep

[Larrye90]

Originally Posted by GATORB8

I just ordered this:
https://www.ecstuning.com/ES165155/
https://www.ecstuning.com/ES165140/

Basically #14 for a single terminal shown here:

Thank u that's the connection I was talking about.

So do u know what the Max voltage is for that connection.

[GATORB8]

Originally Posted by Larrye90

I think we meant the LOC as for the RCA's. But yea I was going to look for the cleansweep

If you do go cleansweep/dsp, it will perform the LOC function, so you won't need both.

[Larrye90]

Originally Posted by GATORB8

If you do go cleansweep/dsp, it will perform the LOC function, so you won't need both.

Ok so if I leave the door speakers and the back speakers alone , they stay with the hu. Then I'll just amp the Underseat why tapping them. So just tapping them doesn't amp them. So do I run the tapped wire to the cleansweep and then the RCA's to the amp. Then from the amp the wires to the Underseat speakers to amp them?

[GATORB8]

Originally Posted by Larrye90

Thank u that's the connection I was talking about.

So do u know what the Max voltage is for that connection.

~14.4V

You meant to ask amperage. They seem to be pretty high, it's a plate fusible link, but looks like 8 AWG is about the biggest conductor that fit's easily. Although, Technic's pic on this thread looks closer to 4 to me:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251449

[GATORB8]

Originally Posted by hdmark

I think I'm back to option 5. Looking to grab technics harness , and a jl xd400/4v2. It has a sub pass out through. So I'll run the fronts and rears in either series or parallel (not sure if they are 4 ohm or 2 ohm) which will get rid of my fade , but not lose stereo effecr. Then I'll run the undersea with channels 3 and 4. Then eventually when I want to toss a sub in there, I have 2 preamp outputs ready for me I'll toss in a distribution block for the power and grounds and be done!
Now to figure out my speaker options. I think to start I'll just toss in the amp and wire up the harness and be done. Then add speakers as I go?

Stock base speakers should be 4 ohms.

Remember, wiring in parallel divides impedance, series adds, so:

4 ohm speakers in parallel = 1/(1/4+1/4) = 2 ohms (some amps)
2 ohm speakers in parallel = 1/(1/2+1/2) = 1 ohms (very few amps, high distortion)
4 ohm speakers in series= 4+4 = 8 ohms (all amps, but lower power)
2 ohm speakers in series = 2+2 = 4 ohms

Remember, distortion and clipping kills speakers. Keep the level volume down on the HU, and the gains lower to prevent signal clipping from the amplifier sections. Keep the lows out of the doors and the highs out of the underseats.

I'm thinking we can get the stock speakers unbearably loud before melting the voicecoils. (exception may be the underseats since lows take some power).

Originally Posted by hdmark

also - these are just plan adapters right?
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/rfi2sw

That's just like soldering RCA connectors on the wires. So it would work if you were recoded.

[hdmark]

Originally Posted by GATORB8

Stock base speakers should be 4 ohms.

Remember, wiring in parallel divides impedance, series adds, so:

4 ohm speakers in parallel = 1/(1/4+1/4) = 2 ohms (some amps)
2 ohm speakers in parallel = 1/(1/2+1/2) = 1 ohms (very few amps, high distortion)
4 ohm speakers in series= 4+4 = 8 ohms (all amps, but lower power)
2 ohm speakers in series = 2+2 = 4 ohms

Remember, distortion and clipping kills speakers. Keep the level volume down on the HU, and the gains lower to prevent signal clipping from the amplifier sections. Keep the lows out of the doors and the highs out of the underseats.

I'm thinking we can get the stock speakers unbearably loud before melting the voicecoils. (exception may be the underseats since lows take some power).




That's just like soldering RCA connectors on the wires. So it would work if you were recoded.

perfect, thats what i needed to know
so for the stock speakers, ill run the fronts and rears in parallel to grab a 2ohm 100w (ill keep the gain low). and then when i upgrade , ill probably grab 2 sets of 2ohm speakers and run them in series.

last hole in my thought process is the speaker level outputs of the non coded stereo.

Assuming i tossed the amp in before i recoded the stereo (just keeping all options open, i know it wouldnt sound as good), what voltage is the speaker level outputs from the HU? the jl xd 400/4v2 can take up to 8v signals. not sure what the HU outputs.
my thought process this kinda is that if i kept the stock eq curve until i upgraded the speakers, it may sound better?

also, i thought i read it somewhere but i cant find it. once recoded, it sends out 3v outputs? which is enough to power the JL right?

[GATORB8]

Originally Posted by Larrye90

Ok so if I leave the door speakers and the back speakers alone , they stay with the hu. Then I'll just amp the Underseat why tapping them. So just tapping them doesn't amp them. So do I run the tapped wire to the cleansweep and then the RCA's to the amp. Then from the amp the wires to the Underseat speakers to amp them?

Signal (speaker level) from underseat connection -> Cleansweep/LOC/DSP/Amp Speaker In (convert speaker level to RCA) -> Amp -> amplified speaker level back to underseat connection

The thing is, the stock HU is designed for the front channels to power both the doors and the underseats. With the stock filtering, the impedance is effected somewhat. I'm not sure if there will be a volume effect by just removing the underseats from the stock front channels.

You could try it pretty easily by jumping the signals at the underseat connector to skip the underseat speaker.

[GATORB8]

Originally Posted by hdmark

perfect, thats what i needed to know
so for the stock speakers, ill run the fronts and rears in parallel to grab a 2ohm 100w (ill keep the gain low). and then when i upgrade , ill probably grab 2 sets of 2ohm speakers and run them in series.

last hole in my thought process is the speaker level outputs of the non coded stereo.

Assuming i tossed the amp in before i recoded the stereo (just keeping all options open, i know it wouldnt sound as good), what voltage is the speaker level outputs from the HU? the jl xd 400/4v2 can take up to 8v signals. not sure what the HU outputs.
my thought process this kinda is that if i kept the stock eq curve until i upgraded the speakers, it may sound better?

also, i thought i read it somewhere but i cant find it. once recoded, it sends out 3v outputs? which is enough to power the JL right?

Been a while since my last electrical circuits class, so I may be off base here.

P=V^2/R
P=25W
R=4 ohms

V=sqrt(25*4) = 10V

HIFI 3V should be fine for the amp, aftermarket HUs normally range in the 2-5 area.

[Larrye90]

Originally Posted by GATORB8

Signal (speaker level) from underseat connection -> Cleansweep/LOC/DSP/Amp Speaker In (convert speaker level to RCA) -> Amp -> amplified speaker level back to underseat connection

The thing is, the stock HU is designed for the front channels to power both the doors and the underseats. With the stock filtering, the impedance is effected somewhat. I'm not sure if there will be a volume effect by just removing the underseats from the stock front channels.

You could try it pretty easily by jumping the signals at the underseat connector to skip the underseat speaker.

Thank u everyone for the help .

I just didn't get this last part sorry. ( You could try it pretty easily by jumping the signals at the underseat connector to skip the underseat speaker.)

If I amp the Underseats only but keep the volume kinda low so it won't drown out the door speakers then I'm good for now right.

[Larrye90]

Originally Posted by Larrye90

Thank u everyone for the help .

I just didn't get this last part sorry. ( You could try it pretty easily by jumping the signals at the underseat connector to skip the underseat speaker.)

If I amp the Underseats only but keep the volume kinda low so it won't drown out the door speakers then I'm good for now right.

That's the thing I want a solid thump sound but since I'm not amping the other speakers can't go that loud . Door speakers I'm still looking . And door sails for a tweeter anyone know where to get them at a good price. E90

[Larrye90]

Originally Posted by GATORB8

~14.4V

You meant to ask amperage. They seem to be pretty high, it's a plate fusible link, but looks like 8 AWG is about the biggest conductor that fit's easily. Although, Technic's pic on this thread looks closer to 4 to me:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251449

Thanks maybe it is a 4 . I wanted to do a 0 g but I think too big

[hdmark]

Originally Posted by GATORB8

Been a while since my last electrical circuits class, so I may be off base here.

P=V^2/R
P=25W
R=4 ohms

V=sqrt(25*4) = 10V

HIFI 3V should be fine for the amp, aftermarket HUs normally range in the 2-5 area.

perfect. and were sure its 25W for the CIC right? i thought i saw it was 25w x 2 ohm for CCC. so probably less power for a 4 ohm load. but with the 25w x 2 ohm output that would give me V= sqrt(25*2) = 7.07 v which is acceptable.
im hesistant to feed a 10v signal into an amp that only accepts 8v

[Larrye90]

Does anyone here know for sure if part # 51337171201 and 51337171202 are the right sail for a 2010 e90 328i

[ctuna]

Why reinvent the wheel
The stock speakers are crap in stock base system
the under seats are only 6.5 inch
in the stock system. Not a good idea to just amp any
part of the base system.

BMW stereo types
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352586
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1266451970
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=343673
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138949
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780605
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780865
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641323
http://bmwcoders.com/forum/3-er-8/bm...1-e92-e93-291/
http://technicpnp.com/menuDiagrams/d...e90_92_93.html
http://www.musicarnw.com/page-2/
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...4&d=1278871872