[GMe90]

Last week, I started driving my car home from work. It was a hot day, and I had the AC on full blast. As I approached a red light, my car shut off. It took me a minute to realize that the car actually turned itself off. When I realized that it was turned off, I turned the car back on without any problems. The "service engine soon" briefly flashed, but then the light disappeared and the car drove fine after that. Today, I started driving my car home from work again. The AC was on full blast again. Except this time, the car shut off while I was driving. I was driving about 40 mph, and when I started making a wide turn, the car just turned off. It was scary tbh. I was able to start the car immediately without any problems. The car again drove fine after that. Any idea as to the cause of this?

[unrealii]

There was a recall for junction box cable. Has it been performed on your car?

[John 070]

Originally Posted by Black n54is

New software update for the start/stop feature having a glitch?

Was that available on a 2011?

When this happened to me years ago, the DME was replaced by BMW. Exact same symptoms. The Service Engine ABS blah blah blah was basically because for me because the car stalled while moving. Restarting and taking off reset that. Otherwise, zero codes ever that were not related to ABS/DSC/etc.

I was skeptical, but the car never stalled again, so I guess they were correct.

[BlackedOutBimmer]

3 immediate things I would check are:

1.) ABS/DSC module - mine went bad, and shut my car off once while I was drifting to a stop at a red light. It happened the exact moment I hit the AC button, which I don't know is related in any way, but my car stalled. I thought it was because the AC compressor stalled it at first somehow, but found out a few days later my ABS/DSC module was shot... I had the "3 lights of death" on my dash, so I knew it was that.

2.) Fuel Pump
3.) Battery cable recall was done.

[John 070]

Originally Posted by AllBlackBimmer

3 immediate things I would check are:

1.) ABS/DSC module - mine went bad, and shut my car off once while I was drifting to a stop at a red light. It happened the exact moment I hit the AC button, which I don't know is related in any way, but my car stalled. I thought it was because the AC compressor stalled it at first somehow, but found out a few days later my ABS/DSC module was shot... I had the "3 lights of death" on my dash, so I knew it was that.

bizarre that your ABS module failing would shut off the car. I accidentally turned my ignition on when the module was out, and the wipers turned on high speed (could not be turned off), and the airbag warning activated.

When it was faulty and in the car, it merely lit up the trifecta meaning I had no ABS, DSC, nor cruise.

My guess is that you observed the symptom, but the pump was not the root cause. Just going by my experience and having replaced the ABS pump myself.

[BlackedOutBimmer]

Originally Posted by John 070

bizarre that your ABS module failing would shut off the car. I accidentally turned my ignition on when the module was out, and the wipers turned on high speed (could not be turned off), and the airbag warning activated.

When it was faulty and in the car, it merely lit up the trifecta meaning I had no ABS, DSC, nor cruise.

My guess is that you observed the symptom, but the pump was not the root cause. Just going by my experience and having replaced the ABS pump myself.

Well this is how it happened.

Car is A-OK and life is great. I am leaving work, it's hot as hell outside. I pull out of parking out, get about 1/8 mile down the road towards a red light.

My car is a manual transmission. So as I am coming up the light, I go to put my car in neutral and let the car coast to the light as I am braking. As I am doing this, I hit the "MAX AC" button... and my car shut off (I was going like 5 mph)

What I thought happened was, because my RPM's were dropping from coasting and putting car in neutral, AND hitting the air conditioning at the same time, it caused my RPMs to drop too much, too quickly, and it stalled my car.

Well, when I started my car back up, I had the 3 lights on my dash - ABS, BRAKE, and whatever the other one is... took my car to the dealer the next day and had my ABS/DSC module replaced under CPO... was like a $1,700 part, let alone labor.. glad I didn't have to pay out of pocket for it!

maybe it caused it, maybe it was just coincidence, I am not 100% sure.

[John 070]

Originally Posted by AllBlackBimmer

Well, when I started my car back up, I had the 3 lights on my dash - ABS, BRAKE, and whatever the other one is... took my car to the dealer the next day and had my ABS/DSC module replaced under CPO... was like a $1,700 part, let alone labor.. glad I didn't have to pay out of pocket for it!

The good news about it is it's a DIY for $250 plus shipping. They rebuild the DSC hydro better than new and offer a 5 yr. warranty.

The bad news is the part went up to like $2,600, and even new, it has the same defect as the one that came with the car. One dude with a testimonial said he paid the dealer out of pocket over 3 grand, and it happened again the next year, so he said no way, and DIY'd.

major props to those on the forum who had the DIY instructions and the YouTube as well, that's really bang for buck.

[Tom K.]

My MT E91 has also recently been stalling when coming to a stop, but only when thoroughly warmed up with ambient temps in the 90's and the A/C on. If I first shift to neutral and engage the clutch, the idle simply returns to the normal 700 rpm and stays there. But stopping somewhat rapidly with the clutch disengaged, the idle drops down and the car stalls. This only happens after the car has been driven in traffic for at least a half hour, and the only warning that pops up is the "Active Steering Not Working" message on iDrive. Of course, when one turns the steering wheel with the engine stalled, the lack of steering assist immediately becomes pretty obvious!

My JBE has been replaced (for other issues) and the ABS/DSC module was also replaced (many warning lights for that one). When the module was bad, the weather was much cooler and the stalling problem did not exist - so I doubt it has anything to do with it.

I'm hoping that this behavior will change when (and if!) this current east coast heat wave ends.

Tom

[John 070]

Interesting....there was once a time when I was idling my car, just started, dash said 106F, I hit the AC, start driving (I have a stick), and it stalled and I got the yellow warnings for ABS etc. The ABS is due to the stall, meaning car was moving with motor off. Service engine was on after starting back up. Shut down. Restarted, service engine was off. In this particular case, it was VANOS. But I guess by chiming in we're creating a moving target for the OP....other than this one time, my car has never stalled outside of the DME replacement....

[Tom K.]

Originally Posted by John 070

But I guess by chiming in we're creating a moving target for the OP.....

Sure seems that way. And here I was hoping for a definitive cause....

Tom

[GMe90]

Thanks guys. I have the car in the shop right now, and the mechanic is trying to figure out what's causing it. I am very reluctant to get back in the car until I know for sure that it has been fixed. I don't know what I would do if the car shut off on me in the middle of the highway.

[GMe90]

Originally Posted by unrealii

There was a recall for junction box cable. Has it been performed on your car?

Yep.

[unrealii]

Follow up with this guy. Similar thing happened to his car but he has not updated us yet

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1277913

[GMe90]

UPDATE: I picked up the car from my mechanic, and he couldn't find a problem with the car. The codes are clear, and the car is running fine. He told me to keep driving it to see if it happens again. I may just bite the bullet and pay BMW's $160 diagnostic fee to see what the issue is. Would you all just ignore the problem and keep driving? It has happened twice now.

[Swizzie7]

Happened to me before on a hot day in FL. My story is just like yours, it was stop n go traffic, ac on blast, car in nuetral cruising to a stop. It never happened to me above 5mph though, so thats where our stories become different. I went to the dealer, but they couldnt replicate the problem, and I had no codes...It been close to a year now with no issues...and I still commute in traffic..very strange..

[Swizzie7]

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=656441

[Tom K.]

Originally Posted by GMe90

UPDATE: I picked up the car from my mechanic, and he couldn't find a problem with the car. The codes are clear, and the car is running fine. He told me to keep driving it to see if it happens again. I may just bite the bullet and pay BMW's $160 diagnostic fee to see what the issue is. Would you all just ignore the problem and keep driving? It has happened twice now.

See what happens when the weather cools down a bit. Today, with the temperature about 7o cooler and the humidity at 40% instead of 60%, I could not get mine to stall on hard braking.

Good luck!

Tom

[ibrodishwash]

did you ever fix the problem?

[GMe90]

Originally Posted by ibrodishwash

did you ever fix the problem?

The problem went away and never happened again. The two times that it happened, it was hot outside, I had just started driving after leaving work, and had the AC on full blast. Part of me thinks that the engine may have shut itself off because of that combination. Whenever it's hot outside now, I make sure my AC is not on full blast and just give the car a little extra time to cool the cabin. That has worked well. Are you having the same issue?

[juld0zer]

It may be worth double checking the fuse box. I have seen cars come in that had had the recall done for the B+ cable but it was done improperly. Remove the access panel in the glovebox to view the fusebox. On the top right quarter section, look for a round rectangle hump and carefully check for discolouration, bulging, burn marks etc.

That is the area where the cable connects to. The recall patch cable has a screw on the connector which when tightened properly, locks the connector to the terminal in the fuse box. A plastic cover is then installed over this. The scenario I found is the cover can still be installed if the screw is partially tightened but the connector is still too loose. Over time, the reason for the recall appears.

No valvetronic faults?

[ibrodishwash]

im having a similiar problem. I have a 2011 328i and if i have the aircon on and i decide to speed up significantly, the car just dies on me completely. No power steering or anyhing and its dangerous. BMW is telling me its the alternator and battery but cant pinpoint what it is. Im basically scared to drive the thing now hahaha

[GMe90]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

It may be worth double checking the fuse box. I have seen cars come in that had had the recall done for the B+ cable but it was done improperly. Remove the access panel in the glovebox to view the fusebox. On the top right quarter section, look for a round rectangle hump and carefully check for discolouration, bulging, burn marks etc.

That is the area where the cable connects to. The recall patch cable has a screw on the connector which when tightened properly, locks the connector to the terminal in the fuse box. A plastic cover is then installed over this. The scenario I found is the cover can still be installed if the screw is partially tightened but the connector is still too loose. Over time, the reason for the recall appears.

No valvetronic faults?

Thanks for the info. I will double check-it. No faults were showing up when I checked right after it happened.