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Base Stereo Amp Install questions(Search already used)
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12-16-2018, 10:05 PM | #1 |
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Base Stereo Amp Install questions(Search already used)
My right mid range speaker went out in my 335 e92 2011 coupe with base (professional)sound system. I happen to have some sound system parts around from previous builds.
I have a diamond audio 600.4 amp which can do the following 75x4 @ 4 ohms stereo 150x4@2 ohms stereo 300x2@4 ohms ( doesnt state, id presume mono) I have a set of inifinity kappa tweeter and crossovers, a set of L7 mid range woofers i got on craigslist for 20$. I also have a JL cleansweep laying around. my theory was to just install the L7's run the tweeters and crossovers, then run each underseat woofer on a separate channel. I know this setup will not sound optimum and I plan eventually to upgrade it but funds are bit tight with everything i have recently installed into my car(See signature) My questions is if this is possible since the L7's and tweeters are now 4 ohm speakers. I was under the impression that the two underseat woofers with 4 ohms each bridged together to create 2 ohms by reading the primer PDF. Which is why i would run them each on separate channels. I considered getting the scanspeak 10f's as those are pretty cheap for a set but didn't want to shell out the cash for the earth quakes as bass is not very important to me. Also i believe that with this amp and setup it would not be enough to power the earth quakes bridged on the last two channels. But please give your advice as I am not understanding how the bridging quite works. Would i be able to get 75w for the front compenents then bridge the last 2 channels at 2 ohms and deliver 150w to the earth quakes? And had i just decided to stick with the factory underseat woofers would i run those at 4 or 2 ohms and how on this amp. This is the manual for the amp https://www.manualslib.com/manual/46...?page=4#manual Can you please give me the advice if the clean sweep is required or would recoding to hifi suffice. I am trying to simply give the car a mild upgrade for now just since I am replacing the door speaker anyway. Also when i run wires to the door speakers where is the most rear most part of the car that i can tap the front speakers in to the existing wiring. Or which technic harness would you recommend for this build. Thanks
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2011 335xi -JB4/MHD/Purestage 2 Turbo/BMS Intake/VRSF Charge Pipe/BMS Meth/Catless/Fuel It stage 2/VFRS 7inch FMIC/N20 Flex Fuel
Dyno'd at 475Awhp/473tq Last edited by FairlyReliable; 12-16-2018 at 10:11 PM.. |
12-17-2018, 12:58 AM | #3 |
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You can tap the front speakers at the underseat woofers without any problems. If the amp takes high level input the cleansweep will not be needed. As for powering the system with the 4 Chan amp, good choice. And last but not least, the Logic 7 mids are also a wonderful choice. Personally I think they are a better choice than most aftermarket options.
Edit, forgot to mention, skip the infinity tweeters and crossovers, use your stock tweeters. You most likely will not hear a difference nor see one unless you are going for SQ and are doing RTA testing. |
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12-17-2018, 08:34 AM | #4 | |
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I have ordered a technic 2/4 harness, do these technic plugs go all the way up through the door jams or tap into connectors were it is also retrieving the signal(by underseat woofers)? I still am not understanding if my underseats are currently 8ohm ran parrell to create 4 or if they are each 4 ohms to create 2 ohms as when i look at the audio overview PDF it seems as all the speakers in my system are 2 ohm. I have the professional headunit no factory tweeters nor do i have nav. I plan to still run the tweeters however as i bought the L7's with pair of tweeters but i got home and realized the guy sold me one L7 tweeter and one Hifi speaker. not sure how different they are. Figure i will still run my high end tweeters so that later if i decide to upgrade the mids or such. I do wish to go with as highest sound quality i can get out of this hodgepodge system. The amp has a pretty intense crossover system not sure how help ful that will be. Just trying figure out if the under seats should be bridged or just ran on individual channels. if they are 4 ohms a piece bridged to 2 i will run individual, if not I am not sure how to run them. Thanks FR
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2011 335xi -JB4/MHD/Purestage 2 Turbo/BMS Intake/VRSF Charge Pipe/BMS Meth/Catless/Fuel It stage 2/VFRS 7inch FMIC/N20 Flex Fuel
Dyno'd at 475Awhp/473tq |
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12-17-2018, 09:24 AM | #5 |
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Just found hertz speakers dyna matter in the rear deck so that now changes everything.... glad I ordered the technic harness for the four channel damnit. Now I need see what else has been upgraded.
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12-17-2018, 12:31 PM | #6 |
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"I have ordered a technic 2/4 harness, do these technic plugs go all the way up through the door jams or tap into connectors were it is also retrieving the signal(by underseat woofers)? "
basicly both the FR FL signal runs into the underseats that is where the parallel connection is. (for cars made after 9/09) It runs a cable from the under seats to the rear for the amp . It uses the plug in to the underseats for FR or FL head unit signal and Front door speakers. At least that is my understanding. If you are going to amp the rears you need the 4/6 Last edited by ctuna; 12-17-2018 at 12:45 PM.. |
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12-17-2018, 12:58 PM | #7 |
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Are you sure you don’t already have tweeters? I thought they were standard with the professional deck?
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2009 118i Monaco Blue "Maximillion"
2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, BMS inlets and DCI, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit and M3 gauge cluster retrofit. 2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car |
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12-17-2018, 01:42 PM | #8 | |
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I myself had a "base" system - deck power, 2 - 4" door speakers; 2 - 4" rear speakers; 2 - 6.5" underseat mid/low. For best sound, he'd recode to Hi-Fi. |
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12-17-2018, 04:44 PM | #9 |
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Popping the doors tonight or tomorrow to investigate if there is any other upgraded speakers in this car. Appreciate the information thus far gentleman. And David I am tweeterless in Seattle first time I sat in car (3 months ago) I was like this is outright despicable. Thanks for clarifying that Tuna I figured that was the case. I’ll keep my questions to this thread. More to come soon.
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12-17-2018, 05:27 PM | #10 |
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These may be helpful
Install procedures https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...9#post24104169 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ght=door+wires http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=911595 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=19 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=571803 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=amp+install http://www.bimmerdiy.com/dir/e90 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...DIY+door+panel http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-Panel-Removal http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=553388 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=speaker http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635672 Also the 2/4 harness has no signal for turning on the amp so I hope your amps have signal sensing. |
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12-17-2018, 11:49 PM | #11 |
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Thank you tuna for the videos and links. Popped the door of and found some hertz dcx 100's behind the doors , connectors already chopped up. Was able to use the factory tweeter and rip his butt connectors off and crimp those into the tweeter lines then connect the plug with tweeter to the L7 to get that operational. Debating on trying to find another dcx 100 or two just replace both sets with the oem L7s honestly not sure which are higher quality lol. Screws for door panel were nearly stripped so going to run to the dealer tomorrow get new screws and 2 clips as i found 2 broken ones and try and pick up the sails.
Where the hell can a man mount a crossover on a e92... def doesnt look like ill be able to mount them to the back of the door cards. more to the trilogy to come
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2011 335xi -JB4/MHD/Purestage 2 Turbo/BMS Intake/VRSF Charge Pipe/BMS Meth/Catless/Fuel It stage 2/VFRS 7inch FMIC/N20 Flex Fuel
Dyno'd at 475Awhp/473tq |
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