[dleccord]

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

Coilovers, m3 front control arms, stiff subframe bushings, non run flat tires, m3 front strut brace.

if you add non-rft wouldn't that soften your ride during cornering?

[Fundguy1]

It softens the ride but made in conjunction with the other mods will have a similar ride and improved handling. The oem handling takes the rft into account. With the stiffer suspension components it gets the car vack where it belongs and has the added benefit of nicer overall ride, less weight, better mpg, and cheaper.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by dleccord

if you add non-rft wouldn't that soften your ride during cornering?

Depends. When I changed over from Pirelli P-Zero RFTs to Toyo R1Rs the ride became much more harsh especially over expansion joints since the sidewall is so much stiffer.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by justpete

Depends. When I changed over from Pirelli P-Zero RFTs to Toyo R1Rs the ride became much more harsh especially over expansion joints since the sidewall is so much stiffer.

Even harsher when those R1R's aren't up to operating temperature I assume.

[Fundguy1]

Originally Posted by justpete

Depends. When I changed over from Pirelli P-Zero RFTs to Toyo R1Rs the ride became much more harsh especially over expansion joints since the sidewall is so much stiffer.

Yeah this would be same tire model to same tire model my observations about rfts..

[justpete]

Originally Posted by feuer

Even harsher when those R1R's aren't up to operating temperature I assume.

Agreed

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

Yeah this would be same tire model to same tire model my observations about rfts..

Agreed, wanted to add this just for searches down the road. Thanks.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by avocet

If you are not into replacing everything and going all out like certain other members(ahem justpete), I would start simple with strut/shock upgrades and sway bars.

Doing suspension a la carte might not be the most effective or economical, but if you don't want to fork out a ton of cash right away it is a great way to improve the handling and learn how different components impact handling.

Wheels and tires can make a huge difference. I would be inclined to do suspension mods first.

My suspension mods are bils hd's with oem sport springs, m3 front arms, sways front and rear, m3 sub bushings, shock mounts and front drop hats. It absolutely transformed the way my car went around corners. For a street canyon carver it is a perfect balance.

Adding just a front bar will sharpen turn in and will improve low(er) load handling, but I found the balance towards understeer too much. Keep in mind I have a staggered set up.

Adding M3 subframe bushings was something I forgot about in my initial post. I think a set costs about $200.

There is a tool you can buy on eBay for about $38.00 plus shipping from a company in GB to get the subframe bushings out and in

[Fundguy1]

Skip m3. Marginal improvement. Go straight to ake or poweline black or stiffer.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

Skip m3. Marginal improvement. Go straight to ake or poweline black or stiffer.

How are those bushings affecting ride? Would the car still be streetable? After all, I do use my car as DD.

[Fundguy1]

Originally Posted by W37V

How are those bushings affecting ride? Would the car still be streetable? After all, I do use my car as DD.

Mines a DD. Rides great. No extra nvh. Just no more sloppy rear end.

[Bmwfixerguy1]

I'll say your best bang for your buck and an easy install is the whiteline or equivalent rear subframe bushing inserts.. That's a very very good starting point!

[tetsuo111]

Edit: I missed page 2 of the thread before I posted below, thinking I was adding new insight to the discussion. Doh!


justpete and Fundguy1 covered it well.

But...

Doing all or part of those suspension mods without FIRST swapping non-RFTs for RFTs will make for a very harsh ride. The soft & spongy suspension components are selected in part to compensate for RFT stiffer side walls. This coming from a driver (me) who prefers a suspension with constructive feedback, or what a contemporary BMW product manager and target customer might consider "harsh".

When new I mistook the RFT stiff sidewall for constructive suspension feedback. Non-RFTs revealed both more grip AND a more supple but less damped ride. Removing compliance from the suspension brings control and constructive traction feedback, while retaining a supple and comfortable ride.

[tetsuo111]

Originally Posted by W37V

How are those bushings affecting ride? Would the car still be streetable? After all, I do use my car as DD.

I installed MRF solid AL RSBs. Absolutely no increase in NVH, with a significant reduction in rear slop and float. The RSBs would be third on my last following non-RFTs, then coilovers / dampers + springs. The car is dual use and DD.

Mine is xDrive. If RWD, I might remove compliance in front before RSBs, but can't confirm with first-hand experience.

This is one of those few "no brainer" suspension mods because the benefits are significant, while the downsides are few and limited to installation hassle factor (having to drop the subframe) and cost of labor if you choose to pay someone. Remember that you'll want / need an alignment following the job.

[avocet]

Originally Posted by tetsuo111

This is one of those few "no brainer" suspension mods because the benefits are significant, while the downsides are few and limited to installation hassle factor (having to drop the subframe)

What this guy said.

With hindsight I would have gone straight to a solid bushing. The M3 bushings are a fantastic improvement but with minimal nvh increase I wish I went solid.

[Fundguy1]

Originally Posted by avocet

What this guy said.

With hindsight I would have gone straight to a solid bushing. The M3 bushings are a fantastic improvement but with minimal nvh increase I wish I went solid.

Why I went to ake black. Stiffest possible next to solid. No nvh but super tight.

[mob17]

I got m3 front and rear arms (total 8) and akg 75d subframe bushes in my shed. Which install should i do first (dont want to do both, well i do but got other expenses).

I just hate the laterall movement i get sometimes. Should i do bushes and buy rear monroe upper mounts? Any install issues with the monroes or will they fit ok with the ohlins?

[Fundguy1]

What other mods do you have? Rear control arms do almost nothing. Front are good. Subframe is big also. I have 95d in mine. Love them. Tightened up my ass better than squats and twerking.

[mob17]

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

What other mods do you have? Rear control arms do almost nothing. Front are good. Subframe is big also. I have 95d in mine. Love them. Tightened up my ass better than squats and twerking.

Running 620ft.lbs of torque and have ohlins and a diff lock brace, but run higher spring rates at the rear. Ive already bought all the m3 arms, not fitted tho. 235 and 275 pss tyres.

Just ordered the monroe rear upper mounts. Thinking to get the solid subframe bushes and monroes done next? Will probably need alignment after?

[W37V]

Originally Posted by mob17

Running 620ft.lbs of torque and have ohlins and a diff lock brace, but run higher spring rates at the rear. Ive already bought all the m3 arms, not fitted tho. 235 and 275 pss tyres.

Just ordered the monroe rear upper mounts. Thinking to get the solid subframe bushes and monroes done next? Will probably need alignment after?

swapping monroes should take you about 30 min for both sides. for monroes, you shouldn't need an alignment.

[Fundguy1]

Originally Posted by mob17

Running 620ft.lbs of torque and have ohlins and a diff lock brace, but run higher spring rates at the rear. Ive already bought all the m3 arms, not fitted tho. 235 and 275 pss tyres.

Just ordered the monroe rear upper mounts. Thinking to get the solid subframe bushes and monroes done next? Will probably need alignment after?

I would if youre doing the subframes. I got a lifetime alignment at firestone/tiresplus. Worth the $130. I've used it countless time after each tire swap, wheel swap, or suspension mod.

[mob17]

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

I would if youre doing the subframes. I got a lifetime alignment at firestone/tiresplus. Worth the $130. I've used it countless time after each tire swap, wheel swap, or suspension mod.

Wish i could get lifetime alignment here in the UK! Costs about 100 US money each time.

I have a few niggles that i need to get looked at first then may finally get the bushes done. Might just do the monroes if its only 30 mins.